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slantscamp
11-24-2013, 07:29 PM
Hi everyone. This is actaully my first post on this forum. I have been lurking around checking out everyone's builds, and thought I would share my project. This is my wife's 59 metropolitan. We started working on it and driving it around in stock form, but quickly grew tired of its high maintnece, slow speeds and bad handling. So we decided to go another direction with the car. A few calls to Art Morrison, and we have a new chassis. I just recieved it friday, so i dont have too many pictures yet, all I have done so far is put some primer and paint on it to keep it from getting surface rust. i jsut spray painted it for now, as I will be doing a lot of welding on the frame and will blast and paint it better when its completed. Here are a few pictures of the car when I was mocking up the wheels, and taking measurments to give Art Morrison.

slantscamp
11-24-2013, 07:35 PM
And here are a few pictures of the new chassis. Once i get everything painted, I will put it together to make it a "roller", then I will start working on getting the body attatched to the chassis.

puddin head
11-24-2013, 08:09 PM
Now this is what I was looking for. Keep the pics and progress coming.

GS455vert
11-24-2013, 08:36 PM
I agree! Always liked this body style and thought it would be a cool candidate for a hot rod/pro touring build. Should be awesome!!!!!!!

1989GTA
11-24-2013, 09:02 PM
What type powerplant/transmission are you going to install?

HELLCAMINO
11-24-2013, 10:30 PM
Awesome!
Here is one I like>>>>http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_1012_1954_nash_metropolitan/

slantscamp
11-25-2013, 02:09 AM
Thanks guys, I'm not 100% sure on the drivetrain yet. Being a mopar guy, I've got some small block chryslers around, but have also been thinking about an ls engine. Transmission will be an auto for the wife. As for brakes, I have 11" wilwood discs all around. They are not huge for most cars, but will be plenty for this little thing. And the wheels are 15x7 and 15x5. Also not huge, but much larger than the 155/80-13's on there now. My goal for this car is a rock solid cruiser for the wife that is subtle. Yet powerful enough for me to have fun with.

mikes2nd
11-25-2013, 09:04 AM
Mustang v6? Camaro v6.

Those 305 hp versions would be nice.

I would go with someone like a Twin Turbo 3.6 litre v6(Mitsu).. That's an easy 500

sccacuda
11-25-2013, 09:49 AM
Thanks guys, I'm not 100% sure on the drivetrain yet. Being a mopar guy, I've got some small block chryslers around, but have also been thinking about an ls engine. Transmission will be an auto for the wife. As for brakes, I have 11" wilwood discs all around. They are not huge for most cars, but will be plenty for this little thing. And the wheels are 15x7 and 15x5. Also not huge, but much larger than the 155/80-13's on there now. My goal for this car is a rock solid cruiser for the wife that is subtle. Yet powerful enough for me to have fun with.

Very cool! Where are you at? I have a few complete GEN III Hemi's complete and ready to plug and play. I'd be willing to part with one cheap if it was going in this!

gpintauro
11-25-2013, 06:05 PM
cool ride!! nice little LS motor in there would be cool!

Hornet LSX
11-25-2013, 08:29 PM
Cool build!!

This is our Nash Metro build in the making.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/MetroAlteredphase2tealwhitepaintwvstacks-1.jpg (http://s424.photobucket.com/user/ScrapsPics/media/Nash%20Metro/MetroAlteredphase2tealwhitepaintwvstacks_zpsbe2eeb f5.jpg.html)

wfo guy
11-29-2013, 05:05 PM
This may be the only way to fix a metro. You have alot of decisions to make. My daily is a Dakota Rt. I'm happy with it except for gas mileage. A more modern engine would be a nice step forward. Because the Metro would be around 1000 lbs. less, the modern sbm might be an ok pic. Most decisions are made because of budget. Good luck with this!

slantscamp
12-01-2013, 11:22 AM
Well nothing too exciting has been going on yet, just a bunch of taking apart, painting and putting back together. I'm going to try to get the front brakes and hubs on today and am also going to look at a 9" 3rd member from craigslist to put in and make a roller for now. Oh and I need to get the bearings pressed onto the axles.

Peanut1959
04-22-2014, 10:45 AM
Looking good! What's next?

nine lives johnny
04-22-2014, 11:00 AM
what a cute little frame haha.

slantscamp
09-09-2014, 06:28 PM
Well it's been a while since I have posted any updates. I have been steadily working on the car in my spare time, but just dont get much time to post stuff up. I got the body mounted on the chassis and even picked up an engine for it. Here are a few pics for you guys to enjoy. I ended up cutting everything out from rocker to rocker, then reboxed the rocker panels. On the frame, i welded 1/8" plate to the bottom that hung out on the sides. Then set the body right on these plates, squared everything up, and welded the rocker panels to the 1/8" plate. It's kind of different, but seems like a really strong way to attatch the body. I saw it done to a mustang on the Art Morrison site. In the pic of the rocker panel, you can see that i also extended the plate to box in a portion of the rear part of the frame. kind of like the old mopar torque boxes on hemi cars. But with 1/8" plate rather than sheet metal, Its probably overkill, but I like it. In the front I have some temporary supports holding the front up. (the front fenders do not come off these, they are like quarter panels) and the rear is supported with the stock supports since the frame was made to be the same height as the stock frame was.

slantscamp
09-09-2014, 06:46 PM
So here is where I am at as of last weekend. I purchased a complete 5.3 lm7 (I decided a good 350 H.P. should be enough for this 85" wheelbase car) and stripped it down to the basics. Sunday I decided to see how it fits in the car. I measured to pinion and it was at about 2*, so I got the engine as low as i could while maintain the 2* angle and I still have a bunch of room between the oil pan and crossmember, but the starter looks like it will be about 1/8" from the frame. The height in the pictures will also put my new holley oil pan at about 6" above the ground at ride height. I guess i could notch the frame a bit to get the engine down more and still clear the starter, but i would rather not cut into the frame if i dont have to. And I dont want the oil pan too low. Any input that you guys have is very much appreciated. How low do you guys run your oil pans? This is all speculation at the moment as I wont determine final location until I get a transmission bolted up and put it all in at once. I will also be purchasing some steering joints to see where the engine needs to be relative to the rack and the shaft coming off of it. Let me know what you guys this, but dont be too harsh, I'm still learning.

slantscamp
09-09-2014, 07:05 PM
Here are a few more randon pics. Mostly of the frame while I was welding the body mount plates on.

grendel
09-09-2014, 07:22 PM
Nice work. I want one now :)

WILWAXU
09-10-2014, 01:52 AM
Man.. That's all kinds of cool!

Doodler
09-10-2014, 04:21 AM
I love unusual builds like this. A PT metro would be so much fun to throw around a few corners!

Tig
09-14-2014, 07:09 AM
This is awesome.
Any updates?

slantscamp
09-16-2014, 07:09 PM
No real updates. I only get to work on the car on the weekends, and have been busy the last few. Plus I need to find a transmission so i can then build the Engine and tranny mounts. I did win an ls1 intake on ebay last week, it should help fit everything under the hood.

slantscamp
09-23-2014, 07:11 PM
I had a request for the frame specs, so I thought i would post them here so others could see.

85coupe50
09-25-2014, 11:45 AM
That is BADASS!
I would love to see one with real wheel openings so that you could run wheels further toward the edge of the body.

Thrillrr
10-11-2014, 07:09 AM
Looks like you are going to have a very nice build and good luck with it. I really like that frame, I have been looking for one for, my dad's met. Here is a pic of it in 66. It had a 425 buick nailhead in it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/popsmet-1.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/thrillrr/media/popsmet.jpg.html)

Boatmark
10-11-2014, 08:20 PM
This is very cool. You haven't mentioned cosmetics, but I hope you are planning to paint it something stock resembling, and leave a lot of the trim on . . . the ultimate "what the Fu** . . . " car when the wife winds up that LS, and people turn to see where the tire smoke is coming from.

I have to admit though, every time I see the photos of the chassis as delivered . . . My first thought is "hey look, an Art Morrison Go-Cart Chassis!" (Sorry!)

slantscamp
11-24-2014, 06:53 PM
Hi guys. Our plan is to keep it looking as stock as possible, The biggest give away will be the 15" wheels instead of the stock 13". We don't even plan on painting it right away. We also want to try and keep it somewhat quiet. I have been gathering parts to install the engine and hope to start making the mounts this weekend. The only problem that I have run into is starter clearance. The bellhousing is right up against the frame where the starter mounts. you can see it in one of my pictures. I think I will just grind down the extra material to gain some clearance and I may have to offset the engine 1/4" to the drivers side to gain a little more clearance. Does anyone have any input on offsetting the engine to one side? The pinion is centered in the car, but from what I've read, it doesn't seem to be a problem. I could also notch the frame a bit, but would rather not. I am also wondering how much the engine will move and how much clearance I need. I am running energy suspension poly mounts. Here are a few pictures. I look forward to any input and questions.

Tincup
11-25-2014, 11:40 AM
Very cool build, I personally would just cut a small section off the chassis, then weld a plate back on. Smooth it out, and no one will ever know. Get the motor down low ( about 5" ground clearance ) should be plenty.

slantscamp
11-25-2014, 04:41 PM
Thanks tin, I have seen your dart over on FABO. Very cool car. My starter should be coming from summit today, I need to put that on as well to make sure it's not going to add any clearance issues. My only concern with notching the frame is strength. But my thought is it will still be a lot stronger than an old c channel style truck frame.

slantscamp
11-29-2014, 07:33 PM
Well I got the engine in the car. I still need to finish boxing in the engine mounts and I also welded a sleeve in between the side plates to reinforce everything, but I couldn't resist throwing the intake and fuel rail covers on. i know I know, its a 5.3, but I like the look of the corvette fuel rail covers. I even had the wife out in the garage helping me. Life is good.

Tincup
12-01-2014, 12:09 PM
WoW, that engine sits way back....

mikes2nd
12-02-2014, 08:47 AM
WoW, that engine sits way back....

Did you consider something to move the engine forward 3-4 inches? to keep it out of the firewall, feet clearance?

Not sure if your already committed to pushing it back that far.

You can get 2 inches off the shifter rod.

I am using a Camaro shifter but I still had to push the firewall way back in my car.

but the Camaros push back the shifter about 12 inches to put it near closer to you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-2014-Chevy-Camaro-Manual-Transmission-Shifter-Kit-Genuine-OEM-NEW-23157703-/201209478738?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2011%7CModel%3ACamaro&hash=item2ed904fe52&vxp=mtr

Jedrattle
12-02-2014, 08:57 AM
This thing will be a fun little ride when done!

slantscamp
12-02-2014, 05:44 PM
Hey guys. Thanks for the comments, it's good to get feedback from others. I know the engine is set pretty far back, but there were a few things I considered when placing the engine. The most important we're getting the engine low enough that my u joint angles won't be crazy with the short driveshaft. Moving the engine forward would mean I would have to move it up to clear the steering joint and it would have made the working angles too great on the u joints. The other thing was leaving enough room to get the steering shaft up and over the frame. Unless I did some crazy stuff with lots of joints to go under and around the bottom of it. I could redrill the adapter plates to move the engine about 3/4" forward, but then it's really close to the steering shaft and I want a little wiggle room to make it for around whatever headers I use (most likely I will have to make some) I had to put the motor mounts on the frame where I did because if the engine was further forward, the poly engine mounts would hit the frame. ( hopefully that makes sense). I did mock up a cardboard firewall though, and I had pretty good leg room. The car had tons of room when it was stock, I even had to adjust the seat forward and I'm 6' tall. I may move the seat back and inch or two if I have to. So to make a long story short. I could move it abou 3/4". But looking at all the factors I had to put the engine where everything would work, and I guess I will have to deal with the legroom. But hey, shouldn't it help handling a bit?

csh68
12-04-2014, 06:03 PM
really nice ride your building, did the rack & pinion come with your chassis or did you have it custom built. I am converting my 59 metro and needing to purchase one. Thank you and keep up a great build there

slantscamp
12-04-2014, 06:43 PM
Thanks. it's a flaming river rack that came with the chassis. I believe Art Morrison shortens them.

rohrt
12-05-2014, 09:30 AM
subscribing.

That there is one interesting build. I have always liked those cars.

caddyman6062
07-17-2015, 04:44 PM
Hi slantscamp. This is an awesomwe looking build. I found the thread because I am also searching for a solution for a rack and pinion solution for a father-son project 54 nash metropolitan. I guess I'll be talking to flaming river. I'll attach a picture or two - our nash was a junkyard basket case from ebay, and we took the low-buck (relatively) approach to build up a custom box steel frame from scratch. We narrowed a welder series mustang II from cross member, and now face the costly steering question. Since this is to be ultra low-buck fit for a teenager budget (and also since I don't want a power-weight ratio that ill-advised for young drivers), we are setting it up to receive a Volvo I-4 from a donor car.

If anybody knows where I can obtain a shortened rack/pinion suitable for this car, I'm interested!

I'll be watching the progress, slantscamp. Very interesting and cool!115190

Jetfixr320
07-18-2015, 10:23 AM
PM sent CaddyMan

signal20hack
08-19-2015, 07:44 AM
If anybody knows where I can obtain a shortened rack/pinion suitable for this car, I'm interested!
115190

I have used a MG Midget rack, they are very narrow cars. Front track with is about 48".

Tincup
08-21-2015, 07:39 AM
Hey guys. Thanks for the comments, it's good to get feedback from others. I know the engine is set pretty far back, but there were a few things I considered when placing the engine. The most important we're getting the engine low enough that my u joint angles won't be crazy with the short driveshaft. Moving the engine forward would mean I would have to move it up to clear the steering joint and it would have made the working angles too great on the u joints. The other thing was leaving enough room to get the steering shaft up and over the frame. Unless I did some crazy stuff with lots of joints to go under and around the bottom of it. I could redrill the adapter plates to move the engine about 3/4" forward, but then it's really close to the steering shaft and I want a little wiggle room to make it for around whatever headers I use (most likely I will have to make some) I had to put the motor mounts on the frame where I did because if the engine was further forward, the poly engine mounts would hit the frame. ( hopefully that makes sense). I did mock up a cardboard firewall though, and I had pretty good leg room. The car had tons of room when it was stock, I even had to adjust the seat forward and I'm 6' tall. I may move the seat back and inch or two if I have to. So to make a long story short. I could move it abou 3/4". But looking at all the factors I had to put the engine where everything would work, and I guess I will have to deal with the legroom. But hey, shouldn't it help handling a bit?

You gotta do what you gotta do....

Peanut1959
12-21-2015, 06:30 PM
About time for another update!

54metnashconv
07-17-2016, 07:05 AM
About time for another update!
Was wanting to know where you ordered your frame from I have a 54 Metropolitan Nash convertible and I'm in the process of putting either a new front end underneath it or going with the existing front end that's underneath it but I keep reading about the bad handling that's a metropolitan is notorious for I'm going with a 2.3 Ford motor with the automatic transmission in a 9 inch rear end but obviously I want to go with the best option for the steering and handling

54metnashconv
07-17-2016, 07:06 AM
I have used a MG Midget rack, they are very narrow cars. Front track with is about 48".

I was told about a place called unisteer that they can custom build you a rack and pinion for whatever size you need

54metnashconv
07-17-2016, 07:21 AM
About time for another update!
Was wanting to know where you ordered your frame from I have a 54 Metropolitan Nash convertible and I'm in the process of putting either a new front end underneath it or going with the existing front end that's underneath it but I keep reading about the bad handling that's a metropolitan is notorious for I'm going with a 2.3 Ford motor with the automatic transmission in a 9 inch rear end but obviously I want to go with the best option for the steering and handling I'm running to make it a daily driver somewhere I can drive anywhere not just a car shows

Arizonaharleyman
08-16-2016, 07:22 PM
Was wanting to know where you ordered your frame from I have a 54 Metropolitan Nash convertible and I'm in the process of putting either a new front end underneath it or going with the existing front end that's underneath it but I keep reading about the bad handling that's a metropolitan is notorious for I'm going with a 2.3 Ford motor with the automatic transmission in a 9 inch rear end but obviously I want to go with the best option for the steering and handling I'm running to make it a daily driver somewhere I can drive anywhere not just a car shows

If you read back early in the thread, he bought it at Art Morrison Enterprises. https://www.artmorrison.com/homepage2.php

Hope that helps

Tombotu
08-25-2017, 07:29 AM
That is awesome. How far apart are the front rails? Hub to hub measurements? You are doing a great job. Keep us posted? A little help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Jbarnes67
08-26-2017, 01:09 PM
I am running a quick ratio mustang II rack that I believe is flaming river, came with my front end suspension from Dale's Resto out in California. He has them custom made for tigers, and they are narrow. The mg midget / triumph Sprite rack was an older swap used in tigers as well. I am really happy with the new rack, much smoother, and quicker.

Tombotu
08-27-2017, 09:09 AM
Awesome.

Tombotu
09-14-2017, 04:26 AM
Any chance that I could get the inside measurement between the front rails. (Where the engine sits) It would be greatly appreciated.

Hashnash
04-15-2018, 12:47 AM
Hi slantscamp i first found your build thread on bangshift so I thought it would be a good idea to join the club any updates on the Nash ?

Hanger4area51
01-27-2022, 08:59 PM
Mind if I ask where did you get the metro frame / or did you build it ? Thanks Mark