II Much Fabrication LS9-powered 69 Camaro

[parsonsj]

Hey guys,

This has been a low-key project this year, and I've been a bit reluctant to share it. This is a local customer, with all the high-end stuff: LS9, T56 Magnum, DSE suspension, Anvil CF, and with lots of custom touches like a full ISIS Wi-Fi system, Cobra Misano seats, Dakota VHX gauges, MCI door and dash panels, etc.

Here's a few pics to show you guys what we've been up to:

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[Schwartz Performance]

Looking good!

-Dale

[SparkyRnD]

nice looking!

[sjaroslo]

Wow, John, that's a lot of stuff to have to pack into that engine bay. Very impressive, Is that the ECU I see mounted to the back of the inner fender? I'm struggling with location for mine right now. Between my thought to run the A/C lines and the heater hoses under the fender, a) I'm not sure that there's room for everything; b) I don't know if running hot hoses filled with water is a good idea right next to the computer and the wiring, and c) I wish that I had the guts to pull the fender off to work in that area, but my car is so pretty and all put together right now with trim and everything that I just don't trust myself to be able to remove it.... Anyway, looks like a great project!

[snappytravis]

John, glad to see some pictures of this project, I have the same setup for the heat exchanger, I put my hood on and it is super close when you pull the hood latch to jamming it into the ac condenser, I am not sure if you have had the hood on yet but just a heads up. What is the notch in the right side of the firewall for? Looks good keep posting updates

[jlcustomz]

Nice small detail work. Small details all add up. wish my ac lines looked like that.

Used to have my ls computer mounted in about that same spot,see nothing wrong with that.

[parsonsj]

Traveling... In NorCal this week.

Thanks all, I appreciate it.

Yes, that's the ECM on the passenger inner fender, mounted using FabBosses, natch. The notch in the firewall is for the oil tank. I'll post more pics of that when I get back to the shop. We're using dual Mann-Hammel ProVent 200 catch cans too. I'll share more of that too.

I think the hood latch is going to be fine -- but I've already made a bunch of mods on that. More to come on that too.

[parsonsj]

Some photos of the ECM mount (using our FabBosses, of course), along with the oil tank and dual Mann-Hummel ProVents.

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[ChevelleNV]

Looking good John... you do some really nice work.

[andrewb70]

Hey John,

Great work as always.

What are the things on the core support to the right of the radiator?

Andrew

[parsonsj]

Sorry Andrew, missed your question. Those are C6 fan controllers. There are two, one for each fan, and they'll be under ECM control for coolant and oil temp along with refrigerant pressure. (the refrigerant pressure sensor is located right by the fan controllers on the inner fender well).

[MrQuick]

Nice work John. Theres a lot going on under the fenders.

[parsonsj]

Thanks guys. The LS9 plus adding the ECM control of the fans really raises the complexity level. Add in engine oil cooler, power steering fluid cooler, the dual ProVents, and the plumbing will be a maze of hoses. The hard part will be bringing order to it all so that it isn't a nightmare to look at.

[andrewb70]

Thanks guys. The LS9 plus adding the ECM control of the fans really raises the complexity level. Add in engine oil cooler, power steering fluid cooler, the dual ProVents, and the plumbing will be a maze of hoses. The hard part will be bringing order to it all so that it isn't a nightmare to look at.

John,

Is the ECU package from GMPP? It looks like the standard LS9 kit using the E67 computer. If so, how do you go about wiring in the C6 fan controllers? I want to do this on my GTO that uses the E67 computer and the GMPP kit.

Andrew

[parsonsj]

Is the ECU package from GMPP? It looks like the standard LS9 kit using the E67 computer. If so, how do you go about wiring in the C6 fan controllers? I want to do this on my GTO that uses the E67 computer and the GMPP kit. Yes, it's the standard LS9 kit, but I can make the programming changes with HPTuners. As far as wiring it into the harness, look over the LSA Camaro thread from C6Z06. The pinouts and everything is in that build thread.

[ChevelleNV]

Yes, it's the standard LS9 kit, but I can make the programming changes with HPTuners. As far as wiring it into the harness, look over the LSA Camaro thread from C6Z06. The pinouts and everything is in that build thread.

Hi John,

I looked through the threads from C6Z06 but didn't see any wiring diagrams... care to help a brother out and provide a link. Would be nice to know wire those up.

[parsonsj]

Here ya go, my brotha:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=40215

You'll recognize some of the participants. It's a worthwhile read from the beginning.

[ChevelleNV]

Here ya go, my brotha:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=40215

You'll recognize some of the participants. It's a worthwhile read from the beginning.

Well, that explains why I couldn't find it, it was on LatG. Thanks John...

[l2azorback]

Hello,
Any updates on this build? Thanks!

[parsonsj]

The car is at the body shop, getting all snazzy. The build will resume in the summer when it returns to my shop.

[parsonsj]

A quick update: we just changed body shops. I'll be out at the new place on Saturday morning to see the progress, and I'll update the thread.

[sjaroslo]

Oh, man, hope there isn't a tragic back story to that decision!

[parsonsj]

Nope, no tragedy. We lost some time, since the original place didn't get work done fast enough. The work that was completed is first rate, and we left with hand-shakes and well-wishes.

[dhanks]

Yes, it's the standard LS9 kit, but I can make the programming changes with HPTuners. As far as wiring it into the harness, look over the LSA Camaro thread from C6Z06. The pinouts and everything is in that build thread.

If you're running the stock GMPP ECU, that requires high PSI injectors. What fuel system are you using to accomplish that? If you're using the ZR-1 3-stage fuel system, what tank are you using?

[parsonsj]

I'm running the stock GMPP ECU, along with a Vaporworx fuel system using a CTS-V fuel module and 65 psi (have to check that number) 80 lb injectors. I've got some custom programming and tuning to do to make this run right.

[EFI69Cam]

John, I looking into using the E67 and decided against it due to "vechicle integration" issues.

How are you getting the AC request to the E67? The factory applications have a BCM that send the serial request I thought.

Another question if you don't mind... If you have an E67 ECM and a CTS-V fuel pump module, why not use the CTS-V fuel pump controller and get the control over the pump in the ECM?

[Buryingthesun]

Wow, top quality work here!

[parsonsj]

John, I looking into using the E67 and decided against it due to "vechicle integration" issues.

How are you getting the AC request to the E67? The factory applications have a BCM that send the serial request I thought.Great question! You're right about the A/C request, but the ECM will detect the pressure via the A/C pressure sensor and manage the fan, even though it didn't turn on the A/C. It's not perfect... I'd like to have the A/C request go through the ECM too. It would be nice to have the ECM turn off the A/C when the coolant or oil gets too hot, or at WOT or above a certain RPM. (heck, my 10 year old FAST aftermarket controller could do all that), but that's how it goes.

If you have an E67 ECM and a CTS-V fuel pump module, why not use the CTS-V fuel pump controller and get the control over the pump in the ECM?Another great question! To be honest, I didn't consider that. It might work... on the other hand, Vaporworx controllers have worked so well in my last 3 projects that I just called Carl and asked him to send me the worx, so to speak.

I'll definitely consider it for the next one.

[parsonsj]

The car is at Jeff Anderson's shop in Winter Springs Fl (less than 15 minutes from my shop). Jeff has no employees; he's been in the business for 25 years, and mostly does all the work himself. He's got two other Camaros there, and his own spray booth.

I took these pictures Saturday morning. Nothing all that interesting, yet, but it's nice to see real progress on the car.

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[parsonsj]

The car is back from paint (about 7 weeks now), and progress has been rapid. The engine and transmission are wired, plumbed, and ready to go. It needs fluids and a few more hoses. (no really, there are more hoses to go!)

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[parsonsj]

Another photo:

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[130fe]

John, what 90 intake adapter is that from? Glad to see progress is back on this one.

[ChevelleNV]

that a sexy looking engine compartment John, nice work....

[parsonsj]

John, what 90 intake adapter is that from? Glad to see progress is back on this one.That's a supercharged Mustang part. It's great for misalignment and a tight fit. And the LS9's throttle body is definitely both!

I debated using a smoothed-out intake tube -- not only would that drive cost to the customer, but a quick prototype didn't look right with the rest of the exposed hoses and wiring. This engine compartment is made with OEM or high-end low gloss racing pieces. There aren't any custom-looking parts. That's how I did my old Nova (II Much), and it makes for easy maintenance and an all-business look. The only part that's not quite with that theme is the coolant recovery tank. I may send it out for a satin powder coat...

[dhutton]

Hi John. Looks great. Could you tell us about the Provent plumbing. Did you use any check valves etc due to the supercharger? I have been trying to figure out how to vent my LSA.

Thanks,
Don

[andrewb70]

JP,

Also tell us about that fancy prop valve on the firewall.

Andrew

[JEFFTATE]

John,
That's a great looking project.
I can't wait to see it finished .

[parsonsj]

Jeff, can you see those ZR1 ps hoses? I was able to use both with just some minor tweaking. I'll be needing some help with the head vent plumbing soon.

[parsonsj]

Hi John. Looks great. Could you tell us about the Provent plumbing. Did you use any check valves etc due to the supercharger? I have been trying to figure out how to vent my LSA.The two ProVents are plumbed inline to the factory PCV system.

The dirty side ProVent (the one closest to the engine) is plumbed just like a catch can, but with a couple of important differences, which I'll explain in a minute.

The clean side ProVent is plumbed between the clean air intake (coming from the intake tube) and the dry sump tank. It's important to note that GM's dry sump system is *not* the same as you might see on a race car. It's really a "sorta-dry" sump. Real race car dry sumps create 12-20 inches of vacuum in the crankcase, (about 1-2 psi positive pressure in the tank) forcing atmospheric venting, making a PCV system impossible. The air flows in the wrong direction. GM's system connects the crankcase and tank so that crankcase vacuum is minimal, and so engine vacuum can draw air and a PCV still works.

Hope all that makes sense.

Supercharging creates more crankcase vapor since there is more blow-by, but GM's sorta-dry sump scavenge pump is able to keep up with that and pull those vapors into the tank. That's why I'm using much bigger hose sizes on the clean side for the ProVents.

OK, back to the dirty side ProVent. It's plumbed with its inlet coming from the PCV orifice in the valley cover, and the outlet going to the intake manifold. Engine vacuum (on the inlet side of the supercharger) is still present and causes air to flow from the crankcase through the ProVent, and then to the intake manifold. In other words, air is pulled through the ProVent, not pushed like the clean side. As a result, the ProVent has to be modified to work properly. The ProVent has a regulating valve on the side that attempts to moderate pressure, but it fails in a vacuum. The valve head separates from the bellows, resulting in a vacuum leak. I replace the pressure regulating assembly with a Delrin "puck" that locks the ProVent open so that vacuum can pull air through.

In terms of check valves, there is one on the dirty side in the oil return lines. (both ProVents share a drain back to the oil pan). The check valve is also vacuum operated so that it is closed by vacuum from the engine or by positive pressure from the clean side. Captured oil from the clean side can flow directly back to the crank case, and dirty side oil will flow back when the engine is shut off.

Hope that helps! Lots of tech in a short space!

[parsonsj]

tell us about that fancy prop valve on the firewall.Here's a closeup of the brake bias controller, taken during the initial fabrication. Sorry about the poor quality -- but it's the best one I have.

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It's a new part from Wilwood. The two ports on the top are inputs from the master cylinder, one for front and one for back. Out of the bottom are three ports: left front, right front, and rear. The two front ports don't have to be used; you can use one and block off the other. It also has a pressure switch which you can see on the far side. You can use that instead of a mechanical switch for brake lights. And, of course, the big knob is for adjusting brake bias.

A final bonus: since I'm using an InfinityBox (nee ISIS) setup, I can ground one side of that switch and bring in the other side via 24-28g wire and use the MasterCell to control the brakes based on that input. I am also going to program the MasterCell so that the car won't crank without the brakes being activated.

[dhutton]

The two ProVents are plumbed inline to the factory PCV system.

The dirty side ProVent (the one closest to the engine) is plumbed just like a catch can, but with a couple of important differences, which I'll explain in a minute.

The clean side ProVent is plumbed between the clean air intake (coming from the intake tube) and the dry sump tank. It's important to note that GM's dry sump system is *not* the same as you might see on a race car. It's really a "sorta-dry" sump. Real race car dry sumps create 12-20 inches of vacuum in the crankcase, (about 1-2 psi positive pressure in the tank) forcing atmospheric venting, making a PCV system impossible. The air flows in the wrong direction. GM's system connects the crankcase and tank so that crankcase vacuum is minimal, and so engine vacuum can draw air and a PCV still works.

Hope all that makes sense.

Supercharging creates more crankcase vapor since there is more blow-by, but GM's sorta-dry sump scavenge pump is able to keep up with that and pull those vapors into the tank. That's why I'm using much bigger hose sizes on the clean side for the ProVents.

OK, back to the dirty side ProVent. It's plumbed with its inlet coming from the PCV orifice in the valley cover, and the outlet going to the intake manifold. Engine vacuum (on the inlet side of the supercharger) is still present and causes air to flow from the crankcase through the ProVent, and then to the intake manifold. In other words, air is pulled through the ProVent, not pushed like the clean side. As a result, the ProVent has to be modified to work properly. The ProVent has a regulating valve on the side that attempts to moderate pressure, but it fails in a vacuum. The valve head separates from the bellows, resulting in a vacuum leak. I replace the pressure regulating assembly with a Delrin "puck" that locks the ProVent open so that vacuum can pull air through.

In terms of check valves, there is one on the dirty side in the oil return lines. (both ProVents share a drain back to the oil pan). The check valve is also vacuum operated so that it is closed by vacuum from the engine or by positive pressure from the clean side. Captured oil from the clean side can flow directly back to the crank case, and dirty side oil will flow back when the engine is shut off.

Hope that helps! Lots of tech in a short space!

Thanks John, this is very helpful.

Don

[130fe]

Thats a great idea on how you are using that brake switch and starting! I assume that you can only do this with ISIS?

[jerome]

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Do you have any info on how you connected the AN fittings to the barbed nipples on the provent?

Thanks,
Jerome

[BossaNova]

Hey John. What did you use to route the heating and air hoses through the firewall?

[parsonsj]

Thats a great idea on how you are using that brake switch and starting! I assume that you can only do this with ISIS?It's much easier with ISIS/InfinityBox. It's just programming there with no extra wiring required. If you want to do that with a more traditional setup, you can use a relay with the brake light signal as a 12V trigger that enables the starter circuit from the ignition switch to be connected to the starter. You'll also want a neutral safety switch (clutch in or Park/Neutral) wired into the circuit.

[parsonsj]

Do you have any info on how you connected the AN fittings to the barbed nipples on the provent?I use a 1/2" NPT to AN adapter. I choose the AN size based on the rest of the plumbing requirements. 1/2" NPT fits snugly inside the barbed nipples. From there I use some adhesive (gasket maker, epoxy, silicone sealant will all work) to seal the joint and then I use Gates heat shrink clamps as a mechanical failsafe (which improves the overall look too).

Hope that helps.

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[parsonsj]

What did you use to route the heating and air hoses through the firewall?I'm using a prototype of a new product that will be available through Vintage Air and the II Much webstore. I'm no longer directly associated with the II Much retail products, so I don't know price and availability.

It's on the lower left here: http://www.vintageair.com/2014catalog/Pages%20from%202014%20VintageAir%20Cat%20rev%208-15%2078.pdf

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[JEFFTATE]

Jeff, can you see those ZR1 ps hoses? I was able to use both with just some minor tweaking. I'll be needing some help with the head vent plumbing soon.

Hey John,
Yes, I can see them .
It's cool to see a car that I've sold you a bunch of parts for, going together .

[BossaNova]

I'm using a prototype of a new product that will be available through Vintage Air and the II Much webstore. I'm no longer directly associated with the II Much retail products, so I don't know price and availability.

-Thanks John.

[parsonsj]

On to wiring. I'm working in the trunk area with the InfinityBox (nee ISIS) setup. My approach to wiring is to try and figure out all the circuits (simple tables are great ways to organize your circuits), then locate all the boxes, and then hook wires up until you're done. This photo is from under the package tray and I'm working on the inMOTION and POWERCELL 2 power circuits. In the background you can see the inRESERVE solenoid.

Once the power circuits are done, I'll work on the grounds. From there, I'll lay out the wires for each of the devices.

These two boxes control the power windows, power locks, brakes, rear turn and parking lights, reverse lights, and trunk release.

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[parsonsj]

Here's a cute little product I just discovered. It's by Littelfuse and you can get it at Waytekwire.com. It uses MetriPack 280 female connectors, and the spacing is right for solid state relays and mini-fuses. I'm using a couple of these to manage all the "direct connect to battery" and "direct connect to ignition" connections you get with aftermarket boxes (Dakota Digital, Kenwood head unit, e-Stopp parking brake, Vintage Air evaporator, Stack TPMS, twilight sensor, etc., etc..

I used to wire these as separate circuits from a PowerCell (InfinityBox, nee ISIS gear). But that's a bit heavy handed, especially for <2A circuits that can be safely shared. These let me organize my circuits and eliminate all those goofy inline fuse holders. Now I can put all the fuses in a single place.

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[ChevelleNV]

Here's a cute little product I just discovered. It's by Littelfuse and you can get it at Waytekwire.com. It uses MetriPack 280 female connectors, and the spacing is right for solid state relays and mini-fuses. I'm using a couple of these to manage all the "direct connect to battery" and "direct connect to ignition" connections you get with aftermarket boxes (Dakota Digital, Kenwood head unit, e-Stopp parking brake, Vintage Air evaporator, Stack TPMS, twilight sensor, etc., etc..

I used to wire these as separate circuits from a PowerCell (InfinityBox, nee ISIS gear). But that's a bit heavy handed, especially for <2A circuits that can be safely shared. These let me organize my circuits and eliminate all those goofy inline fuse holders. Now I can put all the fuses in a single place.

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These are very nice, I have a few.... :)

[parsonsj]

I have a few.... Dude, you need to share these things! :)

I feel like I need to get all my customer cars back so I can retro-fit them.

[daredvl22]

This is a great idea. Found them on the site mentioned above, item# 46089. Now I just need to figure out all the correct fuses required. Thanks John!

[ChevelleNV]

Dude, you need to share these things! :)

I feel like I need to get all my customer cars back so I can retro-fit them.

I would, but you didn't ask... :)

so does this mean i need to send you pictures of all the cool little electrical doodads i have... cause i have a lot of cool electrical things...

[parsonsj]

so does this mean i need to send you pictures of all the cool little electrical doodads i have...Yes. Yes it does. :)

[parsonsj]

The car is coming alive. I finished the programming of the InfinityBox gear, and I'm testing each circuit now.

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[parsonsj]

Sometimes it's the little things, like parking lights:

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[parsonsj]

With the car wired, and all circuits tested (gotta love InfinityBox stuff!), I'm turning my attention to something I've put off for a long time.

Door panels. These are from MCI. I spent the evening getting the rear panel mounted. It was wasn't too bad since it just sits there and covers up the inner quarter panel.

The door panel itself is another story. I really don't grasp how to mount the inner door latch and door pull. Lots more to come as I try and figure out how to get a finished panel (wrapped in black leather) with the same gaps and fit and full function.

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[ChevelleNV]

The car is coming alive. I finished the programming of the InfinityBox gear, and I'm testing each circuit now.

Nice wiring job, you should come help me wire up the Chevelle... :)

[parsonsj]

Man, wiring is my thing! I was kinda disappointed that everything worked the first time. :( Well, that's not quite true. I needed a code refresh on the inVIRONMENT box so the MasterCell would recognize it. As usual, the guys at InfinityBox had me fixed in less than an hour. I actually was testing most things using my iPhone.

[parsonsj]

It seems these door panels aren't going to be as difficult as I feared. I've got more work to do for a perfect fit for the door panels, but the inner quarter panels are ready for wrapping. I've got about 4 hours in so far.

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[andrewb70]

This car is fancy!

Andrew

[parsonsj]

Fancy, indeed. Sort of the anti-Andrew, if you will, lol.

[parsonsj]

I'm still struggling a bit to get all the panels to fit together and leave 3/16" gaps (that will be filled with foam and vinyl wrap). The driver's side kick/dash/door area needs more work. The first picture is the raw metal, and the second shows how much room the wrapped kick panel takes. The fix is to remove more material from the front edge of the door panel.

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[EvilCamaro]

Awesome build, subscribed.

[Motown 454]

John how did you mount the drive by wire pedal and how far is it mounted off the fire wall? Panels are looking good.

[parsonsj]

I mounted the drive by wire pedal using FabBosses, extended to nearly 3" on the bottom right. I modified the pedal bracket a bit, but I'm no longer sure what it was I did, lol.

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[Motown 454]

Thanks for the quick reply John. I bought a pedal mount from DSE and its for a C6 pedal and mine is different. ( same as the one you used ) Knowing it was 3" near the tunnel helps. I think Iron works has a bracket that bolt to the steering column seal for the pedal I have.
Thanks again!

[parsonsj]

Thanks for the quick reply John. I bought a pedal mount from DSE and its for a C6 pedal and mine is different. ( same as the one you used ) Knowing it was 3" near the tunnel helps. I think Iron works has a bracket that bolt to the steering column seal for the pedal I have.You're welcome. I happened to have those photos in my "library". And yeah, it is farther off the firewall than you might suspect.

I've not seen the IronWorks bracket. Just check and make sure the pedal is at the right position with respect to the brake pedal. I can post the GM recommendation for that if you haven't seen it.

[ChevelleNV]

Just check and make sure the pedal is at the right position with respect to the brake pedal. I can post the GM recommendation for that if you haven't seen it.

GM has a recommendation for pedal placement? Please post it since this is something I will be doing soon...

[parsonsj]

Let's try this:

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[andrewb70]

Let's try this:

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Yup...that diagram is in every GM LS engine installation manual. I followed it when I did the pedal mount in my Cougar.

Andrew

[ChevelleNV]

Let's try this:

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Thanks John...that's a nice little piece of info... got anymore little easter eggs like this?

[parsonsj]

The intended "design" of the MCI door panels I'm using just doesn't work for a door latch. The panels are supposed to cover the standard interior 68-69 latch such that you reach in through the door pull and squeeze the latch (pulling it up with your fingers). The problem is that there just isn't enough room, either for your fingers to get around the latch handle or for enough latch travel to release the door.

So I'm going to use some BMW E30 door latches. Here's the starting point. Using some rod, and two vice grips, I can open the door using this latch. More engineering to come, but I need to install the windows now to make sure that the release cable doesn't interfere with the window movement.

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[parsonsj]

And with the main door panel:

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Now comes the hard part. I need to figure out how to integrate this with the door pull/panel insert. The trim piece snaps in place nicely, but it won't work with the panel insert. That makes the door panel too thick for the trim piece to snap in place.

[parsonsj]

Here's the final solution on the door panels, ready to go off for wrapping.

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[andrewb70]

John,

I think one of the gaps is .004 inches off, you better fix it. ;-)

Andrew

[Motown 454]

John,
I think one of the gaps is .004 inches off, you better fix it. ;-)
Andrew


I thought so too but wasn't going to say anything. :slap:

[parsonsj]

I dropped the door panels off at the interior shop today for wrapping. With that done, I need to get the dash wiring finalized so I can install the freshly wrapped MCI dash I got in trade for the door panels.

The last thing to wrap up is the parking brake. I love these E-Stopp setups. It gets rid of the factory cables and pedal for a button and some simple fab under the floor. The bolts are tied into the transmission crossmember and seat brace, so the mount is plenty strong for the actuator.

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[parsonsj]

Dash is back from interior (JR Auto in Winter Springs), and loosely installed. The stitching matches the Cobra Misano seats.

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[icemanrd19]

how do you like the quality of the cobra seats? I was thinking about getting a pair of le mans ones. Any idea on price?

[andrewb70]

Hey John,

Is the area on the dash in front of the passenger just blank or am I missing something?

Andrew

[parsonsj]

There's a "navigator" bar there. Like on 1st gen Camaros and 70s Corvette. Something for the passenger to grab. There's also another light over there.

It's something I debated with the customer and with the interior guy: is that section too plain? On most late model cars that area is plain for the passenger side airbag.

Back to the brace or navigator bar, I'm undecided on color. I was going to powder-coat it black, but now I'm thinking some contrast might be a good idea.

[parsonsj]

how do you like the quality of the cobra seats? I think Cobra quality is outstanding. The Misano seats are anniversary editions with double diamond stitching and carbon fiber shells.

My last 5 seats have all been Cobra... highly recommended.

[andrewb70]

There's a "navigator" bar there. ....

You mean a "Jesus" bar, as in "Jesus, please don't let me die in this car that is going way to fast"! LOL

I see the holes for it now. I think a black handle would loos best. A contrasting color would make it too obvious.

Andrew

[parsonsj]

..."Jesus" barI like it. I'll use that term from now on.

[KB Camaro]

awesome build. i had a ZR1 so i know that motor well, that's gona be one fun ride!

[cwylie]

What did you use for the intercooler reservoir?

[parsonsj]

There isn't an intercooler reservoir. C&R says one isn't necessary.

[cwylie]

How do you burp the system?

[parsonsj]

I'm using the factory ZR1 "burp/fill port". You can see it in this picture, right in front of the alternator:

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The ZR1 factory manual says to use a zip tie or similar device to make that port the highest point in the intercooler system and fill/burp from there.

[snappytravis]

Looking good!

[Ripper]

Great project!

Are those door panels made out of glass fibre? looks great, but I guess there are no such options for the second gen F-bodys?

[parsonsj]

Yes, they are fiberglass.

My understanding is that MCI has them available for 2nd gens, but I can't recommend them. I've been unable to get them on the phone for the past 3 months. Maybe they've gone out of business?

[Ripper]

Thanks!
I was just curious. I'm planning flat panels, but got curious since those shaped surfaces makes it look slightly more factory and less "home made".

[icemanrd19]

can you send me a pm on what the typical cobra seats cost ? I'm looking at the cobra le mans leather

[TonyHuntimer]

Hey John,

Looking good! I'll keep watching this build.

Regards,
Tony Huntimer

[cwylie]

Is that port part of the hose assembly or is it available separate?

[parsonsj]

It's part of the hose assembly. The clamps are crimped in place. I'm sure you could cut it apart and adapt it to something else.

[Justin@EntropyRad]

diggin it!

[parsonsj]

Thanks Justin!

[parsonsj]

I'm working on the final interior panels now. These are the sail panels and are getting 5.25 drivers and tweeters, plus an opera light. The final panel fit isn't right yet... but you get the idea I think:

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114476

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[OLDFLM]

Looking good! Can't wait to see the interior all wrapped up JP! Back seat or deleted?

[Motown 454]

Nice idea.

[parsonsj]

Door panels back from the interior shop, ready to install:

114509

[Motown 454]

Damn That panel looks nice.

[parsonsj]

Here's how the inner door latch works. I even reused the anti-rattle sleeve and guide.

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[vstol]

The car is back from paint (about 7 weeks now), and progress has been rapid. The engine and transmission are wired, plumbed, and ready to go. It needs fluids and a few more hoses. (no really, there are more hoses to go!)

110026

110025

Very simple and somewhat silly question but how did you mount your fuse panel to the fender well? I have the same set up and was thinking of Industrial Velcro since I have starred at the panel and does not seem to be a way to bolt it down. Thanks Kevin

[parsonsj]

how did you mount your fuse panel to the fender well? I took the box apart. I had to anyway since I don't like how GM does that wiring. It's not hard -- there are little arrows embossed in the plastic that show you where to pry.

[srh3trinity]

Did I miss where the sail panels came from or what the process is for fabricating those? Shaping up nicely.

[parsonsj]

Sail panels are a brand new part from The Shop LLC (made for me, but they liked the idea enough that they are adding it to their standard offerings).

I'm putting speakers there because I used the room normally reserved for a sub-woofer for a pair of II Much vents, so I had to move the sub-woofer to where the rear speakers go, and so then I needed another location for the speakers.

I think it's a great location. There is plenty of sheetmetal with which to screw the speaker and its mount, and they are spaced far apart for the best stereo imaging.

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[minendrews68]

Dang John, interior is looking good!

[Motown 454]

Dang John, interior is looking good!

I agree!

[parsonsj]

The past two days have been all about windows. The car has Nu-Relics power windows integrated with an InfinityBox inMotion controller and Carling rocker switches. All good stuff, but the devil is in the 50 year old details of adjusting the windows to fit and work right. It's a long tedious process made more difficult by the power regulators.

But they are done now. Next up is to finish the dash, column, and pedals. I'll post a pic of the full dash when I get all the bits and pieces in place. I'm hopeful that will be tomorrow!

114741

[Motown 454]

Your moving right a long.

[minendrews68]

Your moving right a long.
And project is looking great!

[vstol]

I took the box apart. I had to anyway since I don't like how GM does that wiring. It's not hard -- there are little arrows embossed in the plastic that show you where to pry.

Thanks

[parsonsj]

Here's the completed dash. All the wiring is done and tested (as best I can). I have to hook up the HVAC duct hose to the evaporator, make sure the wiring doesn't hang down, and a couple of minor tasks. But it's in the car, and now I'm getting the car ready for its maiden journey over to the interior shop for headliner, quarter panel covers, etc.

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[Motown 454]

It looks Nice John, I can't wait to see it with all the door panels in it too.

[parsonsj]

Thanks Wayne. I have to install the mechanical locks (both inside and out) before I can put the door panels on permanently. It'll be another week or two...

[jy211]

Door panels back from the interior shop, ready to install:

114509

Jeff does nice work!

[OLDFLM]

Thanks Wayne. I have to install the mechanical locks (both inside and out) before I can put the door panels on permanently. It'll be another week or two...

I wish I'd left mine manual... power windows? What kit are you using?

[parsonsj]

Power locks are from Modo Innovations. A really sweet kit.

The power windows aren't a kit. I'm using Nu-Relics motors, InfinityBox controller, and Carling rocker switches, along with new glass, and all new window hardware. The only OEM part of the window setup are the channels, which I powder-coated for smoother operation. The windows go up and down unnaturally fast. I wish they'd move a bit slower, lol.

[parsonsj]

Jeff does nice work!Yes, he does. His shop is called JR Auto (very creative, lol), and he's here in Winter Springs, less than 5 miles from my shop.

[parsonsj]

Here's what an LS9 oil transfusion looks like!

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I ran 5 quarts in this way, and got 20 psi on the oil pressure gauge. It filled the oil cooler, oil filter, all the oil passages, lifters, etc. The remaining 4 quarts went in the oil tank and oil pan. I'm hoping to start the motor tomorrow or Saturday.

[CarlC]

Got fuel pressure? ;-)

[jy211]

Yes, he does. His shop is called JR Auto (very creative, lol), and he's here in Winter Springs, less than 5 miles from my shop.

He did my '55 a few months ago :)

[parsonsj]

Got fuel pressure? ;-)Sure do! I had to fix the fuel sensor "branch" of the system -- I had a bad fitting (1/8 NPT to 3 AN) that wouldn't seal.

I'm hoping that HP Tuner will let me see fuel rail pressure from data logging or a "dashboard" so I can adjust the VaporWorx controller before I put the back seat in.

[parsonsj]

He did my '55 a few months ago I know. I've checked your '55 out several times. Beautiful car!!

[CarlC]

Sure do! I had to fix the fuel sensor "branch" of the system -- I had a bad fitting (1/8 NPT to 3 AN) that wouldn't seal.

I'm hoping that HP Tuner will let me see fuel rail pressure from data logging or a "dashboard" so I can adjust the VaporWorx controller before I put the back seat in.

There is usually no fuel pressure feedback through HPT since the sensor is not tied into the PCM on GM computers. If there is a separate fuel pressure sensor that is tied into the PCM (Holley, Mast, etc.), then you're good. Here's how to "hot-wire" the controller to set fuel pressure:

NOTE: Have a minimum of 3-4" of liquid fuel level in the fuel tank to perform the following:
1) Put a small battery charger on the battery.
2) Disconnect the small blue wire from the plug the VaporWorx controller, the one that tells the system to turn on. Remove the wire from the plug not attached to the controller, but the one plug that attaches to the sensors. Apply 12v+ to the blue wire.
3) The pump should run with a soft whirring sound. Set the fuel pressure.
4) If the fuel pressure is too high, the controller will not function. Since the engine is not running there is no means to reduce the line pressure. So, you may need to bleed off some fuel from the engine diagnostics port / Schrader valve to reduce the pressure.
5) Disconnect the battery charger and 12v+ to the blue wire. Reassemble.

Fuel pressure data on the factory systems is provided via the CAN buss and the Fuel System Control Module. It's just a bit more complex than the VaporWorx setup ;-)

[jy211]

I know. I've checked your '55 out several times. Beautiful car!!

Ah OK. Didn't know :)

[parsonsj]

There is usually no fuel pressure feedback through HPT since the sensor is not tied into the PCM on GM computers.Well, that sucks. Not even on the LS9, eh? I don't have a fuel pressure gauge or sensor. Guess I need to rig something up.

[CarlC]

Not unless there is a sensor and it is tied into the ECM somehow. Even on most C6's, which do not have PWM systems, the ECM assumes a rail pressure. On PWM systems, like that in the Camaro and CTS-V, fuel pressure data is provided to the ECM via the FSCM/CAN buss. On those systems fuel pressure data is available.

[parsonsj]

You're right. There's no sensor.

Do you know of any gauge that uses the Schrader valve? I wonder if my A/C gauge set would work?

[parsonsj]

Damn. I feel like I pushed the "Easy" button at Staples:

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[snappytravis]

That's luck if I have ever seen,,

[Motown 454]

Nice idea. John what size radiator is that does it have an oil cooler ?

[parsonsj]

Yep, there's your tip of the day: old R12 gauge sets connect right up to late model LS fuel rails.

[parsonsj]

Wayne, the radiator is enormous, and it does have integrated engine oil and power steering coolers. It's from C&R Racing in North Carolina.

[CarlC]

LOL! Not only is that the same pressure that is in my Camaro, it's also the same as the low-pressure side of the house A/C compressor.

Ingenious!

[parsonsj]

I started the car last night, and sent it off to the interior shop today to wrap up the final bits inside the car.

114979

[Gil]

Looks sweet !
need moar pics
Gil

[ChevelleNV]

Nice job on the dash.. how about some details on the switches you used?

[parsonsj]

The rocker switches are Carling, and are backlit with amber LEDs. The headlight switch (on the far left) is a 3 position switch: AUTO headlights for the bottom (sensor is in the tweeter mount), OFF in the middle, and ON at the top. The next switch is for the interior lights. Just a simple off / on. The knob is the usual wiper motor setup.

On the right side of the column is the E-Stopp electric parking brake button, and on the far right is the ignition/start button. I had the headlight, interior light, and engine start switch custom lettered (along with the window switches which will be in the console) at http://www.dirtyparts.com.

115034

[parsonsj]

Here's a video of the initial engine start. I'm not happy -- the local engine tuner "forgot" to enter the new injector parameters into the tune, and only adjusted the tune for the fans, tires, and fuel pump. As a result, the tune is very very fat; about twice as much fuel as it should have.

Still, it started right up, and validated all the engine wiring.

I've since fixed the tune myself (if you aren't using Injector Dynamics injectors you should be!). I'll post another video when I have a chance to test that tune when it comes back from the interior shop.

Commentary and videography by famed movie maker Lori Parsons.


http://youtu.be/J6iQNS5nWwY

[icemanrd19]

i noticed you bairly raised your tunnel. Can you tell me what the engine angle is based off of the crank pulley? I think I'm at 4 degrees and i don't think i can raise the engine up anymore without the headers hitting. If anything i need slightly lower motor mounts

[parsonsj]

The engine angle is 3.2* down. I'm using the DSE LS7-style engine mounts on their subframe. I added 1/8' spacers under the mounts to get clearance for the Concept1 A/C pulley setup.

[rohrt]

sweet build

[parsonsj]

Here's a pic after my interior guy finished with the sail panels (and the quarter interior panels too):

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[icemanrd19]

Thank you. Im 3.5 down. Im using DSE mounts. Not the set back ones just the standard ones. I wish i could drop my engine 3/16". What crossmember did you go with? i modified the hooker crossmember a lot .

[parsonsj]

I made my own crossmember out of 1 1/4 4130 tube.

[ChevelleNV]

Loving the interior work...

[minendrews68]

Loving the interior work...

I'm sayin'.....!

[Motown 454]

Interior is looking great John.

[CarlC]

Where did you mount the E-Stopp?

[parsonsj]

I mounted the E-Stopp to the floor using the seat riser flanges as reinforcement. The E-Stopp fits nicely there: it gets the benefit of the thick double-steel for all four mounts, and tucks up out of sight (and out of the way).

[andrewb70]

John,

How heavy is that E-Stopp box?

Andrew

[parsonsj]

The actuator is 10 lbs? Or so? The control box is just a few ounces.

[icemanrd19]

Here's what an LS9 oil transfusion looks like!

114915


What are your thoughts on those US general toolboxes? Ive been looking at them and I think for the money they are darn good

[parsonsj]

I love my tool boxes. Well worth the money. I will quibble with the drawer friction lock system, which means that opening/closing drawers results in your tools moving around.

But still. Tool Truck (or even Craftsman Professional) boxes cost 3-4x as much. I'll be buying more.

[parsonsj]

Things don't always go well. Case in point is this XRP banjo fitting for the dry sump pan to tank line. It might be the most expensive hose and hose end in the whole car, costing hundreds of dollars.

And it leaks.

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[Motown 454]

OH Boy, I hope its just a crush washer.

[andrewb70]

Things don't always go well. Case in point is this XRP banjo fitting for the dry sump pan to tank line. It might be the most expensive hose and hose end in the whole car, costing hundreds of dollars.

And it leaks.

115509

Tighten it a little more? I always go until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn :-)

Andrew

[parsonsj]

It's an o-ring interface, held in place with a snap ring. No crush washer, no way to tighten. I'll be on the phone with XRP in the morning.

[parsonsj]

here's the best web image I can find:

115510

[andrewb70]

here's the best web image I can find:

115510

Maybe one of those o-rings got dislodged?

Andrew

[parsonsj]

Maybe one of those o-rings got dislodged?Hoping that was the case, I took the whole thing apart (draining 9 quarts of oil in the process... but I'm not whining :) ). The o-rings are fine. I even had a spare fitting, complete with o-rings and never used, so I tried that. Same problem. This seems to be a problem with the inner side of the hose end. I'll post XRP's response.

[parsonsj]

And then there's this:

115512

Sigh. Brand new T56 Magnum.

[Motown 454]

You've got to love it

[parsonsj]

Lovin' it!

Not really, lol.

I expect issues as I build a car -- and who knows how many issues I've dealt with over the course of this build. There are probably more to come...

[PhillipM]

Definitely interested in hearing xrp's response. Thanks John!

[parsonsj]

Kudos to Bowler Transmission, where I bought the T56 Magnum. They said they would fix it, or have a local shop fix it, or give me guidance so I could fix the leak myself.

I went with option 3:

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Bowler recommended a Mopar sealant which is working very well. :)

[Oregon]

Do you know what was causing the leak?

If you don't mind me asking...what sealant did they recommend?

[parsonsj]

The leak was due to sloppy assembly by Tremec.

The Mopar sealant is pn 68082860AA. It's an RTV sealant, manufactured by Permatex. It's very similar to the Permatex Ultra Black.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[parsonsj]

XRP just called. They figured out what was going on. They were especially puzzled because they had had no other reports of problems. Turns out they didn't have enough o-ring compression for low pressure hose. The original o-rings worked fine for high pressure and suction setups (which is for what most of the race teams use this expensive stuff).

But this hose sees only low pressure (2 psi?) since it's just pushing foamy oil into the tank under the cowl. That lack of pressure keeps those o-rings from sealing.

The fix: slightly larger o-rings. They got a bunch of o-rings from McMaster-Carr, and tested several sizes until they found a set that meet all their testing criteria, including this new low-pressure scenario.

Best part: they are sending my stuff back with the new o-rings overnight. I should have a leak-free running car tomorrow night. :)

They've also passed the new o-ring dimensions on to their supplier, and they'll retro-fit all of their existing inventory.

I love the quick response, attention to detail, and transparency. XRP has a loyal customer!

[Motown 454]

That's great to hear John, you buy top notch products and they stand behind them with first class service. Glad they took good care of you and are preventing this from happening again for any other customers.

[parsonsj]

It's confirmed: transmission and oil line leaks are fixed. I'm still wrestling with my cooling fans (see https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/112506-PWM-radiator-fan-controller) and now I've got some weirdness with my AC. Any AC gurus? I started this thread about the AC issue: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/116567-Vintage-Air-Sanden-compressor-troubles

[jy211]

any new interior shots?

[parsonsj]

I got these just today from Jeff R:

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[Motown 454]

Very Nice!

[dhanks]

What kind of door locks or power locks are you using?

[parsonsj]

I'm using Modo Innovations door locks, with InfinityBox's motion controller.

http://www.modoinnovations.com/power_door_locks_keyless_entry.html

[dhanks]

Nice. What about push-button start?

[parsonsj]

Front and rear glass was installed today:

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[icemanrd19]

what did you use and process to paint the window trim?

[parsonsj]

All the trim was painted by scuffing, self-etching primer, and a two stage gloss black, then cut and polished. Fairly expensive, actually.

One other thought, we are following the lead of a BMW M3 paint scheme. I would have gone with a blue/silver (cold) white, and low gloss back. But BMW uses the warmer/creamier white, and gloss black. I think BMW knows what they are doing. :)

[parsonsj]

Nice. What about push-button start?Missed that, sorry. That's just the ordinary built-in capability of InfinityBox. I had them add a neutral safety (actually, clutch in) to that. If the clutch isn't pushed in all the way, the InfinityBox system just turns on the ignition without using the starter. If the clutch is depressed, the InfinityBox primes the fuel pump for a second, then engages the starter.

http://infinitybox.com/wiring/one-button-start/

[snappytravis]

Looking good, The black trim makes it look like it is flush mounted glass almost. I am still smiling about the cardboard. I did the same with my setup. So worried about the heat exchanger during mockup with the condenser. When I tore it down.. cardboard was still there... When will you take it for a drive?

[snappytravis]

Would you mind telling me what size that exhaust is over the rear axle? I noticed in another picture you used oval.. Looks good!

[parsonsj]

I am still smiling about the cardboard. Yes, a little embarrassing, but better than chasing some bizarre product mismatch. Sometimes it's the simple things. :)

[parsonsj]

Would you mind telling me what size that exhaust is over the rear axle? I noticed in another picture you used oval.. Looks good!It's 3" from the mufflers to the tail pipe.

The whole system is 2" x 30" primaries to a 4" collector, then adapted to a 3.5" equivalent oval, then the X-pipe, then adapted back to 3" round, mufflers, then tail pipe. Getting a 3" tailpipe through a Quadralink without altering the trunk ain't easy. Next time, I'm cutting into the trunk space.

[snappytravis]

It's 3" from the mufflers to the tail pipe.

The whole system is 2" x 30" primaries to a 4" collector, then adapted to a 3.5" equivalent oval, then the X-pipe, then adapted back to 3" round, mufflers, then tail pipe. Getting a 3" tailpipe through a Quadralink without altering the trunk ain't easy. Next time, I'm cutting into the trunk space.

Perfect thanks, I have a Ricks tank with notched corners. However I could see how noting the trunk floor as well could be beneficial. I took some advice on the ez clip ac lines. I changed all the crimp style to the ez clip. Since I do everything twice,, Just ask my wife. The ez clip stuff is wonderful. Thanks for the advice and sharing so much info on your build.

[jy211]

looking great!

[parsonsj]

I changed all the crimp style to the ez clip.I don't know why anybody would use those bulky hoses, once they know about the EZ Clip stuff. Price, maybe, but a couple hundred dollars on our cars isn't much money.

[parsonsj]

I have finally resolved my fan issues.

Yesterday, I transferred the tune from the old GMPP file to the new ZR1 OS tune file. I moved every single table, one by one, and did a complete audit of all the DTC codes and their behaviors. The end result was unexpected, in a good way.

I finally fired up the car, monitoring all the usual parameters, including fan desired/fan %/AC pressure.

With an identical tune (as near as I can tell) the car runs better. The idle is smoother, throttle response is better, TPS % at idle is better (27% to 19%), fuel trims are markedly improved, and O2 voltages are smoother.

There's no doubt the car runs better with the ZR1 OS than with the GMPP OS, with an identical tune. Oh, and the fans function perfectly. AC and ECT desired both work exactly as documented.

Anyway, after 4 weeks' delay, the project is back on track. I'll never use a GMPP crate controller or OS again. From now on, I'll make my own harness, and get my own controller.

[parsonsj]

I took the car on its first drive today. Still some things to finish (front bumper, rear wing, bits in the interior, side and rearview mirrors, bolting on the hood (it was just sitting on the fenders in this video, lol).

Still... 2.5 years of work for this:


https://youtu.be/XRRv_KP7UZA

[parsonsj]

Here's a shot of the interior. I still needs a radio bezel and shifter boot.

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[Motown 454]

It sounds good, how was the ride? By the time I posted you had the new picture up. The interior looks great John.

[parsonsj]

It felt great! Max speed of 20 mph though. I didn't want the Ring Brothers' hood to go sailing off the car, lol.

[Motown 454]

Yes that might have been a problem if that happened.

[parsonsj]

Here's the last hood-less shot of the engine:

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[parsonsj]

The car is so new, it still has tire stickers, lol:

116688

[icemanrd19]

Do you have a part number on that radiator? Can you PM me a price on that unit?

[parsonsj]

Here's the radiator link:

http://www.crracing.com/online-store/10-00003

I'm not a dealer for C&R Racing, but I can inquire if you're interested.

[workng247]

Wow, just went through the whole thread. You have done an incredible job, congratulations. Thanks for sharing some of the process, it inspiring to see what can be done. Whats next?

[icemanrd19]

nice unit but out of my price range. I guess ill stick with a prc unit

[Motown 454]

I have a PRC I bought used from Todd (Vegas69). Its a sweet piece you won't be disappointed.

[parsonsj]

Here's some photos from today. I'm having trouble with the headlight trim pieces, and there's weeks of final tuning and tweaking, but otherwise the car is finished:

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[andrewb70]

Looking good John. The tuning and tweaking never ends!

Andrew

[Motown 454]

It looks great all together. you'll get it.

[ChevelleNV]

Nice job John....

[Motown 454]

Thanks John.

[Jerems]

Great Looking project, good job!

[parsonsj]

Thanks! The car is mostly in the customer's hands these days, though I'm still working through some bugs. The shifter leaked, the overflow tank leaked, the tune still isn't quite right, etc.

But the car is a badass on the street. I've not found its traction limits yet, and I probably won't unless he sends me out on the track with it. :)

[Jerems]

Have you had it on the dyno yet? Curious what power it's making to the wheels...probably a lot haha.

[parsonsj]

No dyno yet. I want to get the idle and street tune sorted before worrying about WOT.

[dontlifttoshift]

<snip> The shifter leaked, the overflow tank leaked <snip>

Stock shifter or was this a white lightning shifter?

Bowler is brewing something up but it will be a few months yet.

[Mr Nick]

Is the front windshield tinted?

I'm going for black and white look on my Cutlass, I have 35% on everything but the windshield. Thinking of something very light up front, I've heard 70% is available. Don't want to affect driving at night.

[parsonsj]

Donny, it's a White Lightning. They sent me a new seal (new design on right). The new one seems like an improvement.

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[parsonsj]

Yes, front windshield is tinted. DOT approved, so I assume it's legal. Side and rear glass are also tinted (smoke gray).

[Stoner]

Wow, you do great work. I am just starting the process of building a 68 Camero. My plan is to use the Roadster Shop Fast Track Frame, with a LS9 / T56. I can't begin to tell you how many questions you have answered for me and i'm sure several other folks. Again, thank you for posting so much information

I didn't see it in the thread anywhere. What was the source for the LS9 badges on the fenders and grill??

Thanks
Mark

[parsonsj]

What was the source for the LS9 badges on the fenders and grill??Thanks Mark. I got the badges from http://www.emblempros.com.

[camarodude87]

Great looking car. Beautiful, Quick question, what headlights do you have ? Thanks, Ray

[parsonsj]

Thanks Ray. The headlights are called Truck-Lites. You can find some more information about them here:

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/GenericView?pageName=/new/PressReleases_en_US/7InchLEDHeadlamp.html&storeId=10001&langId=-1

[69X22]

The car turned out awesome! John

[jp455]

I probably missed this info/pics in another thread but what did you with for the suspension?

[parsonsj]

The car is all Detroit Speed. DSE Subframe, Quadralink, sub-frame connectors, sub-frame bushings, mini-tubs, etc. Brakes are Wilwood, with 14" rotors all around, 6 piston front, 4 piston back. Wheels are Forgeline CF3C center locks.

[no_go nico]

sweeeeeeet

[SD67]

Just went through the entire build thread, learned a lot, thanks for sharing. Considering white for my 67 and wanted to know which M3 color white you used? Looks like the non-metallic alpine white?

[parsonsj]

which M3 color white [...] Looks like the non-metallic alpine white?Exactly right: Alpine white.

[XLexusTech]

Kudos to Bowler Transmission, where I bought the T56 Magnum. They said they would fix it, or have a local shop fix it, or give me guidance so I could fix the leak myself.

I went with option 3:

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Bowler recommended a Mopar sealant which is working very well. :)

Is that some kind of Electric Emergency brake i spy under there?

[parsonsj]

Is that some kind of Electric Emergency brake i spy under there?Yes -- it's an E-stopp system. Highly recommended.

http://www.estopp.com

[sheck44]

John, any chance you could post any more pics of the E-Stopp setup, have to do mine in the next couple months

Thanks
Steve

[parsonsj]

I don't have any other pics of the E-Stopp. The customer has the car now.

Wiring and cabling is trivial -- the most important part is securely anchoring the actuator. I've done it with welded tabs on the sub-frame, but the way I did this car was to simply bolt it to the floor. That works because the seat riser/subframe bolt assembly is perfectly sized to allow the actuator to go through the seat riser flange on both the front and rear. And since the seat riser is tied into the subframe nut assembly and the rocker panel, it's plenty strong for the actuator.

[parsonsj]

Oh: one more thought. I only connected one wheel on this car. I've done it with dual actuators, and custom cables to connect both wheels to a single actuator -- but a single actuator to a single wheel works perfectly. It'll stall the car if you try to move it with the parking brake set.

[Rucumn]

John, where did the dash defrost vents come from?




114846

[sheck44]

I don't have any other pics of the E-Stopp. The customer has the car now.

Wiring and cabling is trivial -- the most important part is securely anchoring the actuator. I've done it with welded tabs on the sub-frame, but the way I did this car was to simply bolt it to the floor. That works because the seat riser/subframe bolt assembly is perfectly sized to allow the actuator to go through the seat riser flange on both the front and rear. And since the seat riser is tied into the subframe nut assembly and the rocker panel, it's plenty strong for the actuator.

Got ya John, I was wondering how you got the strength from simply bolting to the floor.
yes my plan is to weld a bracket onto the passenger side subframe connector

Cheers
Steve

[parsonsj]

John, where did the dash defrost vents come from?I made them from 1/4" 6061 aluminum, then had them polished and powder-coated.

[sjaroslo]

Oh: one more thought. I only connected one wheel on this car. I've done it with dual actuators, and custom cables to connect both wheels to a single actuator -- but a single actuator to a single wheel works perfectly. It'll stall the car if you try to move it with the parking brake set.

I never even thought of that. I haven't been happy with the foot actuated setup and my car doesn't lend itself to a setup to pull both wheels with 1 cable and the cost of TWO e-stopps was e-stopping me from giving it more serious consideration.... :-)

[murtah]

The two ProVents are plumbed inline to the factory PCV system.

The dirty side ProVent (the one closest to the engine) is plumbed just like a catch can, but with a couple of important differences, which I'll explain in a minute.

The clean side ProVent is plumbed between the clean air intake (coming from the intake tube) and the dry sump tank. It's important to note that GM's dry sump system is *not* the same as you might see on a race car. It's really a "sorta-dry" sump. Real race car dry sumps create 12-20 inches of vacuum in the crankcase, (about 1-2 psi positive pressure in the tank) forcing atmospheric venting, making a PCV system impossible. The air flows in the wrong direction. GM's system connects the crankcase and tank so that crankcase vacuum is minimal, and so engine vacuum can draw air and a PCV still works.

Hope all that makes sense.

Supercharging creates more crankcase vapor since there is more blow-by, but GM's sorta-dry sump scavenge pump is able to keep up with that and pull those vapors into the tank. That's why I'm using much bigger hose sizes on the clean side for the ProVents.

OK, back to the dirty side ProVent. It's plumbed with its inlet coming from the PCV orifice in the valley cover, and the outlet going to the intake manifold. Engine vacuum (on the inlet side of the supercharger) is still present and causes air to flow from the crankcase through the ProVent, and then to the intake manifold. In other words, air is pulled through the ProVent, not pushed like the clean side. As a result, the ProVent has to be modified to work properly. The ProVent has a regulating valve on the side that attempts to moderate pressure, but it fails in a vacuum. The valve head separates from the bellows, resulting in a vacuum leak. I replace the pressure regulating assembly with a Delrin "puck" that locks the ProVent open so that vacuum can pull air through.

In terms of check valves, there is one on the dirty side in the oil return lines. (both ProVents share a drain back to the oil pan). The check valve is also vacuum operated so that it is closed by vacuum from the engine or by positive pressure from the clean side. Captured oil from the clean side can flow directly back to the crank case, and dirty side oil will flow back when the engine is shut off.

Hope that helps! Lots of tech in a short space!

John,
Which Delrin "Puck" did you use to modify your Provent for Vacuum? I am currently installing a Provent 200 and trying to figure out how you modified the pressure valve. I removed the diaphragm and the assembly with the spring on it. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks for this informative build thread, btw.

-Jim