?'s on a CPP Suspension on my Brother-in-Law's 69 Nova

[Stg1Regal]

My Brother-in-law has put on a budget E-bay purchase CPP front Suspension...

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1962_67_Chevy_Nova/6774TCAULKB.htm

Once installed it has had it issues, along with 2" drop spindles , and stock springs.

It seems to be in a bind , or something , example the front end rides low, very low...... hardly any suspension travel, and the upper arms seem to be sitting on the bump stops at all times, no jounce/bounce.

Arms seem stiff to move.

When first installed, he didn't know the bushings needed to be lubed, he took it to a suspension and tire and shop , they removed and took apart the arms , lubed and reinstalled them . Still having issues... and the right lower front arm was hard to get in, a very tight fit.

So much issues that he can't run the front sway bar, it's unhooked , needs a different length of swaybar end links (we think) to make it work.

Also he has 245/45/18 tires up front on a 18x8 rim with 4.5" backspace , it still sits so low , he has to remove his inner fender wells.

I've read the bushings in those arms are "plastic" didn't know if there was a different approach to tightening them in the car, loaded or unloaded with the weight of the car.

Don't get me wrong it does drive , but no suspension travel and being on the bump stops, it's a very harsh ride..

What do we need to address first, the engine (SBC) is out for the winter, so we have great access to the suspension pieces...

Thanks

[alocker]

Many aftermarket arms have drop built into them also. It does not state that in the specs but it still may be the case. It's possible you have a 4" drop total. As for binding, you need to look at each component to make sure they are moving freely. I purchased some CPP stuff and the ball joints don't make me warm and fuzzy. I replaced my uppers with Howe and lowers with Pro series Raysbestos before installation. One upper control arm also had incorrecly machined bushings that allowed .076 of play between the shaft and inner bushing. While mine were too loose, maybe yours are too tight.

[rchaskin]

I assume you mean the lower arms are on the bumpstops. My car has about 1" between the LCA bumpstop and the frame.
Everything should be torqued with all of the weight on the car, including the engine.

Those arms look like the spring pocket is in the factory position.

I used DSE 2" drop springs, and their A-Arms with a 3/8" drop pocket.
(A drop at the pocket gives you double that at the wheel, so 3/8" lower pocket gives you a 3/4" lower ride height)
I had to put (2) 3/8" coil boosters in them to get it back to the height it sets now.
so basically my springs are 1-1/4" drop, and it is pretty low.

You may just be able to add a coil booster or two in order to get it up a little.

The wheels need more backspace. I have 255/45/17s on my car with a 17x8" wheel & 5.25" Backspace.
I have full turning radius, and they barely rub the frame at full lock.

hope that helps, and good luck.