Tci Controller Settings

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

Ok Here Is The Question /////when On Manual Mode It Goes Like On Neutral When Gas Pedal Is Not Applied To It ....any Sugestions ? Or A Copy Of A Tune ? Thanks

[Steve Chryssos]

Glad you started the thread Rick,
This is a great question, but the answer has many parts, so I hope you ate your wheaties this morning: Here we go:
PART 1:
First the transmission itself:
The 4L60E/4L80E and 65E/85E transmissions do not apply overrun clutches in overdrive. As such there is no engine braking on decel when you select 4th gear (D) with your floor shifter. This is done to maximize fuel economy by freewheeling the engine on decel. It feels like neutral.
Driving Technique with Paddle Shifted 60E/80E:
When diving into a corner, you lose the ability to engine brake--even when paddle shifting down thru the gears.
So instead of engine braking, you use the full force of your car's brakes to achieve your corner entry speed and use the paddle shifter to select the proper gear to maximize rpm for corner exit. So:
1) Approach turn.
2) Squeeze brakes to reduce speed for corner entry
3) Select exit speed gear (2nd or 3rd) with the paddle shifter.
4) Blip throttle.
5) Hit apex. Turn baby!
6) Nail throttle to exit corner
7) Repeat

---OR---
If you find a known twisty road with lots of low speed corners, or a track day where fuel economy is unimportant, you can move the floor shifter to "3" and the overrun clutches will be enabled. Engine braking will occur and your paddle shifter will control 1-2-3 only. I just use the first method without engine braking. I find it to be more precise. Engine braking can be excessive, so I prefer to control decel with my foot.

PART2:
Software Downshift Prevention and other Tuning
There is another case where the transmission may "feel" like neutral: You have the ability to dial in speed limits for each gear. (i.e.: Do not downshift into 1st gear above 25mph.) If you violate that speed/gear parameter with the paddle shifter, the trans controller will generate what feels like a "false neutral". Leave the 1st gear setting alone, but feel free to tweak down the 2nd and 3rd gear settings.
Additional Tuning: Make sure your minimum shift times are set to the minimum value: .5 sec. That minimum number may sound high, but it prevents accidental double shifts. We built a 2nd safety delay into the paddle shifter electronics to prevent accidental double shifts. So you have to get into the habit of waiting before downshifting twice. Trust me--this is a good thing.
Next, tweak your auto mode shift points. This is where you can really change the personality of the car to suit your driving style. All that matters at WOT is max rpm (except 1-2 gearshifts can be shortened to maximize traction). But at part throttle, you can really make a difference, by holding 2nd gear a little longer or saving OD for 70mph and above (that's how mine is set) You want to adjust shift points BEFORE adjusting firmness as your desired firmness may change. I try not to recommend line pressure changes because I just do not know the extent of modification to or condition of your transmission. So as a rule of thumb, make changes in 5% increments in the lower throttle positions only. The upper throttle positions should already approach zero percent bleed-down, so your modified graph and the stock graph should converge. SAVE your current tables before making modifications.
There's more (like lock-up), but that should get you started. And don't forget to calibrate your TPS sensor. Reply if you find the instructions confusing--It should be straightforward. For example: for a zero value, I have entered in "3%" and for WOT, I have entered in "67%".
/Steevo

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

Zoom!!!! ...that Just Went Way Over My Head Lol ...but Like A Capricorn Ill Try It Even If It Breaks Haha Thanks Steve Thats Lots Of Info

[Steve Chryssos]

Sorry. :rolleyes5

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

steve how about you think you can send me an edited tranny file so i can compare it to mine that way i can get an idea hehe

[Steve Chryssos]

Not a good idea. All my stuff is Gen 1 small block and big block which have very different power curves than your LS1. Instead you and I will get together over the phone and run thru your calibration together. Has to be next week though. Email or PM me and we'll set up an appointment.
/Steevo

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

ok steve ...it looks like i got it ...as far as shift points ...it works great now ...the only thing i dont understand is that *force motor blah blah thing graph but you can call me anytime next week thanks

[Steve Chryssos]

Cool! Did you double check the TPS sensor calibration? You will want to do that before proceeding with line pressure changes. We'll still talk next week, but here's how the line pressure tables work:

You have PWM solenoids in your transmissions. PWM means Pulse Width Modulated--same as the fuel injectors in your engine. When they are open, fluid is allowed to pass thru and pressure therefore drops. As duty cycle increases more fluid is allowed to bleed.
At low engine loads, less pressure is required and the opposite is true: At high loads, more pressure is required. Max pressure (zero duty cycle) is specified at wide open throttle. While at idle, maximum duty cycle (low pressure) is specified.
So, if you go look at the force motor tables in your software, you will see graphs that start high at top left and decrease as throttle position moves towards bottom right:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
So you can tweak the graphs for more pressure by pulling the graphs down. The TCI and PCS software works a bit differently--and I'm on the road with a Mac (not a PC) so I can't look at the software right now.

But as a rule, it's best to start by tweaking the middle gears. And it's best to tweak the middle parts of each graph. The right end of the graph (80-100% throttle position) is already at or approaching zero duty cycle, so leave it alone. And the left side of the graph handles low load situations (around town driving), so you do not want too much pressure--leave it alone or make very minor changes. But in between--say 30% to 70% throttle position, you can pull the graph down in 5% increments and test. But the graph should look smooth, so blend the changed middle section into the ends (i.e. a 1 or 2% change at 20% and a 3% change at 30% TPS with a full 5% change at 40%, 50%, 60%, 70% TPS.
If you are feeling brave or stupid, you can pull the whole graph down at once, but I recommend the gradual "blending" method described above.
REMINDERS:
-So you should start by tweaking the middle parts of the graphs and in the middle gears. 1st gear should be pretty good.
-Save your original map before making changes.
-Double check TPS calibration before you make changes.
-You'll need a buddy in the passenger seat and a laptop. Have him monitor gear and TPS using the Dashboard Screen during testing. That way you can communicate: YOU: "It feels soft right there." BUDDY: Okay, right there is 60% TPS in 3rd gear. Bring a pad & pen.
-Be alert: Be prepared to lift off the throttle immediately if slippage is present.
-Got a trans cooler? Remember that as you increase pressure, YOU ALSO INCREASE HEAT!!
/Steevo

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

well thanks a lot Steve ....now thats great customer support and ya dont even work for tci hehe .....i apreciate it a lot ....now you explained everything i needed to know ...i just wasnt sure which way it worked when it came to the graph

[Steve Chryssos]

Your welcome. There more stuff that you need to know, but it can wait til next week. When we're done with it, your car will have a completely different (better) personality.
/Steevo

[parsonsj]

Damn Steve. Impressive technical discussion. You won't be getting away with: "I just went to design school" any more.

jp

[Steve Chryssos]

It's pretty easy. In fact, it's way easier than programming fuel injection. :throw: When you break it down, an automatic transmission is just a big 'ol oil pump whereas with fuel injection, you have to worry about that whole internal combustion thingie.
/Steevo