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View Full Version : Best way to get hand on a LS7 Engine??



badazz81z28
10-26-2013, 06:34 PM
There's Ebay...Craigslist...Its just a crap shoot when buying from these places with the risk of the motor having problems.

How have most of you acquired your LS7?

Schwartz Performance
10-26-2013, 08:14 PM
A new one from a dealer such as Pace Performance, Jegs, etc!

BonzoHansen
10-27-2013, 06:37 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-CORVETTE-Z06-LS7-7-0-Engine-505hp-6732-miles-COMPLETE-/141098492386?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20da2021e2

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19244098/overview/

raustinss
10-27-2013, 06:44 AM
I got really lucky with mine.... was a warranty job that wasn't supposed to leave the dealership...but did. regardless there was some legal crap and eventually the corvette owner got his parts and then sold them. I would recommend checking out Cleveland pick a part in Columbia station ohio....thats what the really cater to high performance wrecking yard
Good luck Ryan Austin

SShep71
10-27-2013, 09:49 AM
you can always buy a salvage from copart.com but good luck! All the yards go on there and pay more than what most are willing to shell out.

raustinss
10-27-2013, 12:59 PM
For the right cash I could possibly be convinced to sell mine

csouth
10-28-2013, 06:07 AM
I second the recommendation for Cleveland Pick-a-Part. They used to adverstise on Lat-G a lot. Their prices seem very fair and if you buy from them via eBay you would be protected via PayPal
http://www.clevelandpickapart.com/

71RS/SS396
10-31-2013, 01:26 AM
I bought mine off of the corvette forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/

badazz81z28
04-18-2014, 07:35 PM
Still looking for one. Boy are they expensive....for that kind of cash, peace of mind may be in a new one.....

raustinss
04-18-2014, 09:00 PM
Maybe check out www.Dasilvamotorsport.com Manny is a awesome guy to deal with he may have a engine or could point you in the right direction. Hell I bet he could get you one and build it to a much better power level then the 505hp from the factory. The first thing he would recommend is bronze valve guides and stainless valves, mild port job,mill them to bump the compression a bit, one of his custom cams and, convert it to ls3 oiling system. End result....roughly 650 hp

zamora7
04-18-2014, 09:56 PM
Buy my shortblock!

71RS/SS396
04-19-2014, 01:54 AM
Maybe check out www.Dasilvamotorsport.com Manny is a awesome guy to deal with he may have a engine or could point you in the right direction. Hell I bet he could get you one and build it to a much better power level then the 505hp from the factory. The first thing he would recommend is bronze valve guides and stainless valves, mild port job,mill them to bump the compression a bit, one of his custom cams and, convert it to ls3 oiling system. End result....roughly 650 hp
The LS7 already has 11.0:1 compression why go higher? That would put you into race gas territory. Why get rid of the dry sump? I also wouldn't use bronze guides in a street engine as they won't have the longevity of a steel guide.

raustinss
04-19-2014, 06:45 AM
Nope, I asked specifically about the compression ratio and he said nope pump gas was still good I guess taking it up a touch with Arun's computer magic and tuning everything is fine. As for the guides we talked for about half hour two weeks ago at his shops open house . Now as I went over all the ideas I've been told or read about for fixing the issue with those heads he had the answer for why they don't work, partially because hes tried most of them. Getting rid if the dry sump for me was a no brainer
1. 10 liter oil changes, with synthetic
2. Greater chance of oil leaks with the lines, disaster on the road could rip apart a line and your stuck
3. The cost to build a dry sump motor is a fair bit higher ,price out pumps not such from Aviaid...then price
Out a katach ls3 pump.
4. Making lines sucks lol
5. Running lines all over the engine compartment is ugly
6. Having to fab up a new tank to fit my car complete with baffles, breathers and fittings could become a pain
In the ass
7. Believe it or not but hot rod magazine got more power from switching a engine over.

These are just my reasons as to why I don't want GM's weird dret oiling system, I guess you can call it part of the KISS theory. That and I think there is better chance of longer engine life.
Please feel free to either contact the boys at Dasilva motorsport ,correct or educate me

parsonsj
04-19-2014, 06:58 AM
The first thing he would recommend is bronze valve guides and stainless valves, mild port job,mill them to bump the compression a bit, one of his custom cams and, convert it to ls3 oiling system. End result....roughly 650 hpThe LS7 has a significant problem with dropping valves. Among the C6 Z06 community it's well known, and many many people (including me) have pulled the heads, and replaced the factory iron guides with silicon-bronze and hollow stem valves with a more durable valve. The other weak point in the engine is the hypereutectic piston, which tends to fail first (my #7 lost the top portion of the ring land) which I discovered when I pulled the heads.

The dry sump change doesn't add horsepower, the cam and porting do. My LS7 (with a mild cam, headers, mild porting) makes 540 hp at the tires, which is about 630-650 hp at the flywheel.

Speaking of the dry sump, the LS7's system is a bit weak there too. It has a significant problem with long left-hand sweeping turns and runs out of oil. One look at the inside of the pan will explain why. The fix there is to add an additional scavenge pump or go with a full racing system. Converting to an LS3 wet sump setup might be a less-expensive alternative in a pro-touring car, since the oil tank represents a difficult packaging problem.

jp

badazz81z28
04-19-2014, 07:29 AM
Buy my shortblock!

What do you have??

raustinss
04-19-2014, 08:44 AM
Without getting all "no I'm right ". February 3 2010 hot rod magazine online took a ls7 converted it using ls3 parts and found 3-4 hp on average at higher rpm once they completed the swap. All the testing was sae corrected and done at livernois.

zamora7
04-19-2014, 04:27 PM
Ls7. I'm looking to do a stroker only reason I would sell it

srh3trinity
04-19-2014, 06:11 PM
I think if I were going to get rid of the dry sump system I would go with a stroker ls3 and save a boat load of money. You could get nearly the same displacement and aftermarket heads/cam and be well on your way for much less. 3-4 hp on a 600 plus hp engine is negligible.

badazz81z28
04-19-2014, 07:22 PM
Stephen,

I would be curious about the combination....you can make an LS3 with the same stroke/bore as the LS7? I want the cubes and the reliable power not so much the "LS7"

I just have a hard time thinking buying an LS3 and stroking it would be cheaper than a out right LS7

Schwartz Performance
04-19-2014, 07:37 PM
If you hand build a 427 LS3 you'll end up cheaper than an LS7. Or if you had a machine shop/engine builder do one. I'd say you could build one for around 9-10k pretty easy.

-Dale

srh3trinity
04-19-2014, 08:01 PM
My LS3 will be a 418 with a 4 inch stroke and 4.070 bore. A Standard bore with a stroker crank would be a 416. 9-11 cubic inches difference. My build isn't going to be as high hp as a modified LS7 but it will be close to a crate ls7 in stock form. I haven't added it up, but 600 for a used block, 1800 for rotating assembly, springs, lifters, chain, 500 for used factory heads, 350 for cam, 500 for fasteners plus about 1200 for machine work and assembly. I will realistically be into it for 6k and will eventually go with aftermarket heads to maximize it's potential. There are people making 500-550 hp plus with those motors. Will it make similar power to a stock ls7? Yes, and maybe more depending on cam selection. Modded ls7? Maybe, but I haven't spent near as much.
If I had bought a used ls7, I would have it gone through for the above mentioned valve and piston issues which would add more to the cost of the engine. Packaging and oiling would be a concern of mine. Maybe I am wrong, but they have never excited me as much as building an engine with aftermarket rotating assemblies or a crate LSA.

srh3trinity
04-19-2014, 08:10 PM
http://texas-speed.com/p-295-tsp-418-cid-ls3l99lsa-short-block.aspx
Reputable company, forged internals and only a cam, heads and small parts from being done. Maybe another 2500 and you would have a killer engine. They probably have a 427 long block if you want a little more. There are other options too like Thompson motorsports on eBay. He has gotten pretty decent reviews on ls1tech and has some cheaper options. If I didn't need to spread mine out over time, this would have been easier. I just couldn't lay the money down all at once.

srh3trinity
04-19-2014, 08:13 PM
Looked around a little more and found a 427 long block: http://texas-speed.com/p-307-tsp-427-or-429-cid-ls3l99lsa-long-block.aspx

raustinss
04-19-2014, 08:31 PM
I got my ls7 for 4500$ and once we're done building it....it will be around 10-12000$ depending on if we're counting the costs of harness computer..accessory drive set up..hell just those 2 things can very easily cost you 3500-4000$...depending on what company's stuff you pick. Either way I figured I can't go wrong..i should be from what I've been told 520-540 easily at the wheels. With a fresh motor. I couldn't find a ls1,2or 3 cheap enough and then machine...parts..stroker kit etc etc etc. It would have been a few grand cheaper then the ls7...but I couldn't say it was a ls7 then lol. I guess I have a need to be able to say that lol

woodside783
06-18-2014, 07:26 AM
My ls3 416 came from Texas speed mild cam and tune makes around 550hp really happy with it for a lot less than a ls7.

joshtownsend
06-18-2014, 10:28 AM
Nope, I asked specifically about the compression ratio and he said nope pump gas was still good I guess taking it up a touch with Arun's computer magic and tuning everything is fine. As for the guides we talked for about half hour two weeks ago at his shops open house . Now as I went over all the ideas I've been told or read about for fixing the issue with those heads he had the answer for why they don't work, partially because hes tried most of them. Getting rid if the dry sump for me was a no brainer
1. 10 liter oil changes, with synthetic
2. Greater chance of oil leaks with the lines, disaster on the road could rip apart a line and your stuck
3. The cost to build a dry sump motor is a fair bit higher ,price out pumps not such from Aviaid...then price
Out a katach ls3 pump.
4. Making lines sucks lol
5. Running lines all over the engine compartment is ugly
6. Having to fab up a new tank to fit my car complete with baffles, breathers and fittings could become a pain
In the ass
7. Believe it or not but hot rod magazine got more power from switching a engine over.

These are just my reasons as to why I don't want GM's weird dret oiling system, I guess you can call it part of the KISS theory. That and I think there is better chance of longer engine life.
Please feel free to either contact the boys at Dasilva motorsport ,correct or educate me

Arun is a great guy!!!! I cal him every so often just to talk... about the only thing bad about him is hes Canadian!!! hahaha

Cant ague with a guy that runs 8.0's with a street car..

Aficionado
06-18-2014, 12:06 PM
No experience with the LS7, but my LS3 416 dyno'd at 635/543, FWIW.

10.7:1 compression, no less.

raustinss
06-18-2014, 02:50 PM
Arun is a great guy!!!! I cal him every so often just to talk... about the only thing bad about him is hes Canadian!!! hahaha

Cant ague with a guy that runs 8.0's with a street car..

Ok yeah but don't bring up the fact he's car got stolen.....not so happy about it . Manny and him are swamped with work its pretty crazy when you've got 3 zr1's waiting for work...Let alone the other 10-12 z51,z06,z28,...ctsv etc etc etc oh and the shop holds probably another 10..

joshtownsend
06-18-2014, 05:19 PM
yeah.. that sucked really bad.. just a very bad thing and esp with everything else he had going on in his life..