Who makes a nice lowering/performance suspension for a GM "A" body

[GS455vert]

I have a 71 GS 455 4 spd convert and I'm looking for a nice lowering/performance suspension kit manufacturer. I have seen the Hotchkis stuff and it seems good. but pricy, any other options?

Thanks

[lolife55]

Lots of good companies that could tailor a kit to suit your needs. UMI Performance, BMR, Speed Tech, Detroit Speed, Ridetech, SCandC... Search should bring up some previous threads.
I used UMI Stage 4 on a 69 Chevelle. Happy with UMI kit and very good deal with.
Leaning towards Speed Tech on a 2nd Gen when if I ever get back to that car.

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

Hi GS455 - You have one of these? This car is running our double adjustable VariShocks and some custom components from SC&C.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


We have front and rear options for your Buick which will improve the handling and drop the ride height down a couple inches. A front coilover conversion (http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1179-chevelle-71-72-a-body-gstreet-coil-over-suspension.aspx) with adjustable VariShock coilovers, springs, upper and lower a-arms starts at $1689. You can run the stock spindle to save some money or upgrade to a tall spindle for improved geometry.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/5706a30_1_-1.jpg

A rear conversion (http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1336-chevelle-68-72-gm-a-body-g-bar-poly-coil-over-suspension.aspx)with adjustable VariShock coilovers, springs, and polyurethane bushed upper and lower control arms starts at $1359. Both kits include all the required brackets and hardware. They don't require welding or fabrication either, just drill a few holes for the rear. If you're going to drive the car hard and/or want a little more adjustment in the system, you can upgrade the rear to spherical pivot-ball control arms for only $280.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/5827a20_1_-1.jpg

Both systems have several different options whether it be for spindles, anti-roll bars, shock upgrades, or alternate mounting options.

Check out THIS INSTALL ARTICLE (http://www.superchevy.com/technical/chassis/suspension_steering/1307_coilover_suspension_1966_chevrolet_chevelle_c orner_carving_on_g_street/) from Super Chevy on a '66 Chevelle.

If you have ANY questions, just give us a call. My extension is below, but any of us would be happy to help find a configuration that best suits your needs.

[GS455vert]

Hi GS455 - You have one of these? This car is running our double adjustable VariShocks and some custom components from SC&C.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


We have front and rear options for your Buick which will improve the handling and drop the ride height down a couple inches. A front coilover conversion (http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1179-chevelle-71-72-a-body-gstreet-coil-over-suspension.aspx) with adjustable VariShock coilovers, springs, upper and lower a-arms starts at $1689. You can run the stock spindle to save some money or upgrade to a tall spindle for improved geometry.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/5706a30_1_-1.jpg

A rear conversion (http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1336-chevelle-68-72-gm-a-body-g-bar-poly-coil-over-suspension.aspx)with adjustable VariShock coilovers, springs, and polyurethane bushed upper and lower control arms starts at $1359. Both kits include all the required brackets and hardware. They don't require welding or fabrication either, just drill a few holes for the rear. If you're going to drive the car hard and/or want a little more adjustment in the system, you can upgrade the rear to spherical pivot-ball control arms for only $280.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/5827a20_1_-1.jpg

Both systems have several different options whether it be for spindles, anti-roll bars, shock upgrades, or alternate mounting options.

Check out THIS INSTALL ARTICLE (http://www.superchevy.com/technical/chassis/suspension_steering/1307_coilover_suspension_1966_chevrolet_chevelle_c orner_carving_on_g_street/) from Super Chevy on a '66 Chevelle.

If you have ANY questions, just give us a call. My extension is below, but any of us would be happy to help find a configuration that best suits your needs.

Yep I have one of those except mine is a 71 455, 4spd convert. I appreciate the input on the Chassisworks stuff and I'm sure that it is great stuff. I'd rather stick to a more stock approach with springs, shocks, and sway bar upgrade. Thanks

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

Yep I have one of those except mine is a 71 455, 4spd convert. I appreciate the input on the Chassisworks stuff and I'm sure that it is great stuff. I'd rather stick to a more stock approach with springs, shocks, and sway bar upgrade. Thanks

We can help there too; we have bolt in shocks for the front (http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-995-varishock-bolt-in-38-stem-top-open-crossbar-single-adjustable-425-travel.aspx)and rear (http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-995-varishock-bolt-in-38-stem-top-open-crossbar-single-adjustable-425-travel.aspx)that will work with your stock a-arms. Also front and rear anti-roll bars (http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-327-chevelle-64-67-gm-a-body.aspx)to work with your stock control arms.

What size wheel will you be running? Retaining the stock spring and going to a taller dropped spindle is the easiest way to change the ride height and improve the handling at the same time.

[UMI Performance]

I have a 71 GS 455 4 spd convert and I'm looking for a nice lowering/performance suspension kit manufacturer. I have seen the Hotchkis stuff and it seems good. but pricy, any other options?

Thanks

Hello,

Like mentioned above UMI is another option for your vehicle. We specialize in the 64-72 A-Body, we offer single components to complete kits all depending on what your budget is. Please feel free to visit our website or give us a call, we are more than happy to talk with you and see what you need. All UMI products are designed and built right here is Pennsylvania, USA.

Also if you have a few minutes please check out the pro-touring 1972 LeMans we are building seen here- https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/95720-UMI-s-1972-Pontiac-LeMans-Restoration-and-Pro-Touring-Build?highlight=umi

Thank you!
Ryan
www.umiperformance.com

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Hey GS, where in CA are you from? Plenty of us way-up-Northerners here, only we're enjoying lots of sunshine now since moving Speedtech Performance to southern Utah rather than the cold Vancouver rain where we used to be. :)

OK, Lets back up a bit and get a little more info...

What are your intentions for the car? You mentioned lowering it, what else do you want from your suspension?

You mentioned you want to stick with a stock configuration, why? There are some definite advantages to swapping over to coilovers, but everyone's needs / wants are different.

You mentioned Hotchkis is over your initial price range. Two things to consider with budgeting a build. Prices are all over the map in this industry. A big name and high pricing doesn't always equate to getting a better bang for your buck, and going for the best "deal" doesn't always mean getting the best value. Do you have certain budget parameters you need to stay within and are they flexible if it means doing it right now rather than re-inventing the wheel later?

Some very basic points about your car. The 68-72 front Geometry isn't the greatest, arguably the more worse of the A bodies. Replacing control arms with enhanced geometry and getting a decent performance alignment helps a lot. To step up the competitive level you can add aftermarket spindles such as the ATS AFX spindle which help even more and have custom steering arms that push steering and handling quality even further.

Shock dampening, spring rate and ride height can get pricey when you throw a dart at the board and choose a factory style spring and shock combo. If you buy springs that end up being too stiff, not stiff enough, too tall or too short, well, basically you get what you get. You either live with it or change everything out, and hope you get it right on the second, or third or... time.

Although there are some decent non adjustable shocks out there, once you see the advantage of an adjustable shock you'll never want to go back. For example I have a single adjustable shock in my G-body, and I can float like a Cadillac for daily driving and sting like Bimmer on track day with a simple turn of a knob. Then I can even fine tune and actually change the way the car handles by doing small turns of the dial. Unless you have a really tight budget I think all of us would recommend an adjustable shock.

A Coilover type shock also allows ride height changes on the fly and spring rate can fluctuate a little as well. If you had to change springs on coilovers (hopefully your salesman will take the time to listen to your needs and get you the right spring rate in the first place) it's a much less involved ordeal than doing a normal spring swap.

Your factory rear suspension is prone to flex and binding, i.e. it fights what it was designed to do as it goes through it's normal range of motion. There are lots of different aftermarket rear A body suspensions out there. If you put a kit on that has solid trailing arms all you're adding to the car is strength over stock. Make sure you choose one that allows the control arms to articulate- twist as well as go up and down. With that feature the rear suspension will travel more fluidly through it's range of motion and work more efficiently to keep the car planted in the curves.

Factory mounting points on A Body rear sway bars are inherently less effective. In fact to a degree they make the suspension fight itself even more. Look for a kit that relocates the sway bar mounts to the frame. Doing so controls body roll much more effectively and again, allows the rear suspension to more smoothly travel through its natural range of motion.

With that all said, as you're shopping around we invite you to take a moment to check out our products. Our policy is to build parts in our own facility that stick to the roots of providing what you want from your car to make it more fun to drive. We have considered all the inherent problems of factory suspensions and built remedies into what we sell. We like to think you get a top performing high quality designed and built product for a decent working man's price, we're not here to make as much $ as we can on high dollar parts or into buying cheap off shore duplicates so we can increase profit margins. Our value in doing this comes from you getting the best value in our products.

If you have further questions our sales or tech department will be happy to take the time to listen, 435-628-4300. Here is a link to the our new easy to browse A Body website page...

Speedtech A Body Parts (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/Category_ID=17/home_id=-1/mode=cat/cat17.htm)

[MCB Matt]

And....we carry all of the above and more...let me know if i can help you out on putting together a package!

Thanks
Matt

[Marcus SC&C]

Some good posts so far. The thing is to build the car to excel at what you`re going to do with it 98% of the time. Select parts that actually help you achieve that goal. On a budget watch out for eye candy parts that don`t really do anything but look cool. On this platform the front end geometry is job #1.
It`s terrible and really holds the car back. So fix it. Don`t beat around the bush, trying to tune around the problem. Go right in there and move suspension pickup points to change the backward geometry and make it work correctly. You can`t do that with just A arms (anyone's), they don`t define the pickup points of the suspension they only connect them together. You need something like this http://scandc.com/new/node/42 You could also use a tall spindle, like the excellent AFX but if you`re on a tight budget that may be a bit too much. Once the geometry is fixed, you need to run a good modern alignment. A well designed package will help you do just that and include the new specs. These two steps are the biggest positive improvements you can do to the A chassis and offer great bang for your buck. Now that the front end is functioning properly, with good geometry, corrected bump steer and a proper performance alignment you can start tuning it.
Springs are up next. While coil over conversions have some benefits, on a solid basic car regular coil springs rule. Something like SPC, Eibach, Hotchkis, UMI etc. springs with a sensible amount of lowering and rates well suited for touring (driving around) rather than hardcore racing would be a safe bet.
Now for some good shocks. They`re the brains of the suspension so get the very best your budget will allow and you`ll be glad you did. There really is a HUGE difference in both ride and performance between good shocks and great shocks. At a minimum I`d do Bilsteins or Konis. If you can step up to some modern aluminum adjustable shocks like the Varishock QS1 http://scandc.com/new/catalog/varishock or Ridetech HQ. Adjustable shocks let you tune the car to ride and handle how YOU want it to. That`s really NICE.
Next up I suggest rear trailing arms. Ones that both positively locate the rear axle and prevent unwanted binding. Smooth and precise if what we`re looking for here. The rare a number of brands that fit that description, Currie, UMI, Chassisworks, and more. All of them share the use of grease able spherical joints with semi compliant bushing races to add precision and eliminate binding.
Last we do sway bars. If you fix the geometry up front a huge front bar is unnecessary for street use. Something like a thin wall tubular 1 1/4" bar is plenty. In the rear you want to change things up a little. Get the rear sway bar off the lower trailing arms. That was always a poor (if cheap) place to mount it. Go for a link mounted bar like this Hellwig http://scandc.com/new/node/267 It`s much more mechanically efficient. It provides more rate and lighter weight at the same time and it`s tunable for different conditions.
Of course if you want to make life easy you can get a package that puts all of the right parts together for you. Something like this... http://scandc.com/new/node/735 or you can take each area of the car in order of priority and pick away at it as time and budget allow.

[chevelletiger]

^^ listen to this guy he wont steer you wrong.whats up mark,hope to see you at sema thursday if your there.phil

[GS455vert]

Sorry that I have not followed up on this thread for awhile. Some awesome info here, and IF I were going for an all out performance machine would jump on some of the great suppliers. Realistically with this being an all original 71 GS 455 4 spd convert major part repleacemnt is not the plan. I would just like lower the car around 2-3' for a better look, tighten up the float alittle and that's about it. IF I get real carried a!way I may upgrade the wheel/tire package? FYI, I have a 70 Nov SS that I am planning a full on pro touring treatment, so all the info on suppliers is great!!

[e129745]

My son has a 1974-75 Olds Omega and I haven't found much for the X-Body in terms of suspension improvements. I understand they may be few except for the usual shock upgrades and clip strengthening, but I will be interested in seeing what is suggested for your `70 Nova SS and what you end up doing.

[UMI Performance]

Sorry that I have not followed up on this thread for awhile. Some awesome info here, and IF I were going for an all out performance machine would jump on some of the great suppliers. Realistically with this being an all original 71 GS 455 4 spd convert major part repleacemnt is not the plan. I would just like lower the car around 2-3' for a better look, tighten up the float alittle and that's about it. IF I get real carried a!way I may upgrade the wheel/tire package? FYI, I have a 70 Nov SS that I am planning a full on pro touring treatment, so all the info on suppliers is great!!

With that being said I would recommend a good set of lowering springs, good shocks and possibly a sway bar kit. This will get you the height you are looking for along with a much better ride and handling. 3" is a lot of drop, you will most likely run into rubbing issues and possible ground clearance issues. I would recommend a 2" lowering lowering spring, 2" drop is very nice for these vehicles.

If we can help anymore please ask. Thanks!
Ryan

[BMR Sales]

I'm more than glad to help you out when you are ready!

T.C.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Sorry that I have not followed up on this thread for awhile. Some awesome info here, and IF I were going for an all out performance machine would jump on some of the great suppliers. Realistically with this being an all original 71 GS 455 4 spd convert major part replacement is not the plan. I would just like lower the car around 2-3' for a better look, tighten up the float a little and that's about it. IF I get real carried a!way I may upgrade the wheel/tire package? FYI, I have a 70 Nov SS that I am planning a full on pro touring treatment, so all the info on suppliers is great!!

What wheels and tires are on it now? Knowing that will help determine whether it will rub or not. If you have a 235-60-15s on factory 15x7 steel wheels you likely won't rub. If you're running 285-40-17s on a 17x10" wheel with 4" of backspacing you may run into issues. Info here is priceless before we guess how your car will perform, right everyone? :)

Be aware- Advertised drop from springs is relative to a number based on where your car sits right now. If your springs are sagged and worn out in a really bad case you may actually raise the car up with a drop spring, lol! So be aware, it may or may not not drop as much as you might anticipate. I've read on forums about folks being dissatisfied because the car didn't drop as much as the springs said it would, but realistically the car was already lowered with junk sagging springs. If your car has been restored to a stock factory ride height you should be in good shape.

Another thought to consider- As has been said a quick and easy drop can be done through swapping springs and to tighten things up you could replace the sway bar and try a little stiffer shock. Since you're seemingly leaning towards a nice cruiser and it sounds like you have a solid idea in your mind of what you want from your car and how much you want to spend, maybe take it one step at a time. Lowering springs usually have a higher (stiffer) spring rate and may alone be just what you want(?). Maybe try those first and see what you think. Then maybe try some stiffer shocks as they'll have a huge influence on your overall ride. If it still has too much body roll, then maybe look into trying a larger sway bar. For the ability to set your ride height and tune your ride comfort to exactly where you want it you may consider going to a coilover conversion with an adjustable shock. This will be a little more spendy up front, but it takes out the throw the dart and hope you get what you wanted method of buying parts. I went through this with my car when I was on my own doing a garage build. I went through 2 sets of springs, shocks and sway bars before I got what I wanted. Nice thing is with a coilover swap, if you get the bug for performance handling later on you're already a good part of the way there.

Just my opinion- 3" is a lot of drop for a simple cruiser, especially one that is mostly stock looking. First off from a design point it will look too low with factory wheels. A more subtle 1-1.5" drop would probably look just right. 2" will start to look non-stock lowered or even a little too low depending on your tastes. My son and I are building a "stock" Nova for him. I had planned on dropping his car 1" to improve performance yet still "hide" the upgrade. Usually 1" is hard to tell it's lowered, it'll just look "right". He's got the autocross bug now, so we've decided to go 2" with 17" factory style wheels. That'll pretty much blow the stock restored look. My wagon is purpose built to be a street driveable autocross car. Despite a lot of folks saying my car isn't "low enough" (too many people looking at disguised road race cars at events) I only lowered my g-body wagon 2" and have the right combo of parts that perform way better than simply slamming it in the weeds. It's obvious it's lowered but doesn't look slammed. If you're really unsure about what ride height you want shoot me a pm with a photo of your car with a yard stick next to the front wheel and I'll do a quick photoshop drop before you change any parts.

If you're doing just springs to drop it up to 3" you'll be changing suspension geometry and may get a little more bump steer and/or have other issues. Then there's also the issue with ground clearance. Often times headers and possibly the rest of the exhaust become an issue. Remember, in time springs sag a bit and the car may drop more, you have to be prepared for that too. My first experience with lowering a car was when I was in high school in the '80's when I dropped my Nova 3". I went through 3 sets of squashed headers in a year before I raised it back up. I also burned through the inner edges of brand new tires down to the cords in 6 months because I didn't know I needed to reset the alignment. Live and learn right? :)

Hopefully this insight and suggestions at least help get your thoughts working before you spend your hard earned $. Research research research and then make a choice.

[Staged 2Discover]

Pic of my 71 GS lowered 2" for your reference

Coilovers with UMI tubular A's in the front with 2" Hotchkis lowering springs in the rear.

Tom

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Yep, that car is pretty much perfect. :cool:

[GS455vert]

Pic of my 71 GS lowered 2" for your reference

Coilovers with UMI tubular A's in the front with 2" Hotchkis lowering springs in the rear.

TomI agree that is about perfect! Thanks for all the awesome info. I got a line on a almost new set of SPC springs for the GS (big block fronts) so I'm hope full that they will do the trick? Will not have any rubbing issues with the current rolling stock. 15 x 7 with BFG 235 & 255's. I'd like to upgrade the wheel/tire combo, but hate the look of stock brakes behind nice large diameter wheels, so spending the $$$ on big brakes just doesn't make sense on this car.

[UMI Performance]

Tom- That car is awesome looking! We shared it on Facebook :)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151967738758643&set=a.142747588642.109380.105161448642&type=1&theater

[455 Ron]

Tom

Car looks great. What size tires and wheels?

Ron

[Staged 2Discover]

Thanks Guys,

The Wheels are 18 x 9.5 with 295-35's and 18 x 8 with 245-40's fronts.
Tires are BFG KDW's
Brakes are C6-Z51 from Kore 3

Tom