Ridetech TQ rear shock orientation

[SSLance]

Well, any almost adjustable rear shock I guess, the question would be the same. How many of you run your rear shocks with the shaft pointed down?

Ridetech says these are a monotube design with a floating and nitrogen so they can go either way. The compression adjustment knob is on the shaft end and putting that down would really make it easier to reach, plus that would leave me a lot of extra line on the reservoirs to find a place to put them for easy access. Plus, if there is any slack in the springs at full droop, the shock body and gravity would keep the spring in place.

Only downside I could see would be the shaft and knob being more unprotected than if they were up top, but the 5 year old shocks on the car now are mounted shaft down and they haven't been hurt yet. Any other downside to installing them shaft down that I'm missing?

[marolf101x]

Lance,
I would put them shaft down. The adjuster on the shaft is Rebound.
This gives easy access to rebound adjuster and makes the resi mounting easier as you don't have to deal with the hose moving all over the place.

[SSLance]

Thanks Britt, as you can see I still have a LOT to learn about adjustable shocks.

I'll put them shft down...now just have to find a spot for the reservoirs. My new brackets are out being welded up, I'll post some pictures of them once I get them back tonight.

[SSLance]

Here are some pictures of my "Made by Lance" Lower shock mount brackets for my Quick Performance 9" rear axle housing.

These were taken with the shocks at full compression, no springs installed yet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03787JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03788JPG-1.jpg

Probably about at ride height

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03789JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03790JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03794JPG-1.jpg

With springs on sitting at ride height.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03796JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03797JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03795JPG-1.jpg

Fully extended with springs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03800JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03799JPG-1.jpg

The shock travel with the mounts in this manner basically mimic the shock travel I had with my stock style shocks. Full compression is about 13" center to center, ride height is about 15.5" and fully extended is 20". The bump stop on the shock contacts the shock body just before the bump stop on my axle contacts the frame.

Still trying to find a good spot to put the reservoirs, welcome any suggestions in this matter.

[Rod]

I put mine in the trunk

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0857_zps1b0635c3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0858_zps66b13df6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0859_zps047d5a16-1.jpg

[SSLance]

I'm leaning that way Rod, thanks for posting the pictures. Just hate to have to cut that big of a hole in the trunk. Also trying to figure out how to plug the hole up afterward, in a manner that is removable in case the shocks ever have to come out again (likely)

[Rod]

I used hood pin mounts that are made of urethane, as a buffer between the hose and body and came up thru the trunk drain holes

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0544_zps9d9342ee-1.jpg

I cut the side open

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0547_zps6fed325a-1.jpg

then screwed it back to the drain plate

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0548_zpsa5b96a8a-1.jpg

[SSLance]

Sweet, I like that idea. Thanks. I'm not even sure if my trunk has drain holes or where they are. Now that the Chiefs have iced the raiders, I'l head out to the shop and take a look.

[GrabberGT]

I'll be borrowing that idea. Looks great.

[SSLance]

My drain hole is in the spare tire well...that ain't gonna work. Looks like my hoses are long enough though that I can cut one hole in the center of the trunk over my rear axle, put both of the reservoirs through it and then point them back to their respective sides and attach the mounts. Then put some type of a plate back over the one hole with something on it to seal the lines up. Have to look at one of those poly hood pin plates to see if there is room for two lines to go through it.

[GrabberGT]

I just ordered some Daystar Hoodpin grommets on Amazon. You can order the grommets only. 8$ each.

[dontlifttoshift]

http://www.sealsit.com/grommet_split.asp .....also works for the big hole in the trunk. Seals tight.

[SSLance]

Nice... I just cut a 3" diameter round hole in a piece of cardboard and the resi will fit through it if you tilt the part where the knobs go through the hole first.

Now I just need to decide if I want 1 or 2 holes in my trunk floor. If I put the holes near the shock itself I may be able to keep the hose away from the tail pipes a bit better than if I put just one hole near the center of the trunk.

Thanks for posting the link Donny.

[SSLance]

Alright, I have a couple more questions regarding these coil overs...and since everyone that has responded here is running them, figured this is as good of a place as any to ask.

First the Delrin washers that came with them to run between the spring and the spring cups. On the rears that are inverted (shock body on top)...when the car is jacked up and the springs fall away from the top cup, the shock body helps keep the spring in line and they seem to fall back into place on the spring cup pretty well when the car is lowered back down. I'm a bit concerned about the delrin washer getting hung up a bit sideways or cattywompus though... Was even thinking of maybe gluing or double sided taping the washer to the spring cup to hold it in place when the car is jacked up. Is this something that I should be concerned with finding a fix for? Or will the washer begin to stick to the cup or the spring on it's own once it's ran a bit?

Second the drop mount spring retainer cup that is included...if I have no mount clearance related issues, is there any reason to run it over the flat retainer cup? I can't see any reason to use it on my application, I can just run the flat retainer further down the threads and accomplish the same ride or pre-load height...correct?

Lastly, is there anything I should do to protect the threads on the shock body? Maybe coat with a little anti-seize? Oil them a bit? Or just run them?

I had a bit of trouble getting the upper spring retainer cup over the Ridetech logo sticker on the shock body and part of the sticker got caught in the threads and freaked me out a bit when putting one of them together. Hate to say it but if I ever have to do that again, I'll remove the sticker and clean the body real well before putting the retainer cup on to prevent this from happening.

[dontlifttoshift]

Just put the delrin washers on the bottom of the spring regardless of which way the shock is mounted. It will do the same thing. How much play is there between the spring and adjuster at full droop? If it is more than 1" you may want to look at a tender spring. It's a flatwound jobber that has a rate of about 25lbs and keeps everything in check at full droop but completely collapses under load.

They included the drop mount for a reason, but looking at the pictures I don't know what that reason is. Your theory on adjusting the spanner nut to compensate for the difference is correct.

I always put a light coat of antiseize on the threads.

I had the same problem with the stickers also.

[marolf101x]

Typically we use pre-load to hold the spring in place when at full droop.

Antiseize is a good idea.

You can run the flat spring retainer if you have clearance. You'll have to install the shock without the spring and move the suspension through it's full travel and check for clearance inside the OE spring pocket.

[SSLance]

Britt,

Here is one of my rear shocks, spring installed, and retainers set at ride height fully extended.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03799JPG-2.jpg

I believe that is an 8" spring, I'll measure again tonight, but I doubt even a 10" spring would stay loaded at full extension with the cups where they are currently at.

Fully compressed, center to center shock is 13", ride height is about 15.5", and fully extended is 20"

Here is the shock and spring with the car sitting at ride height.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSC03795JPG-2.jpg

[marolf101x]

The spring is a 12" unit.
you will not be able to preload the spring when fully extended as you have a very long shock in the rear (to replicate what you had previously).
If this were an "off the shelf" kit you would have a 5.2" shock, which would allow the spring to have a slight preload on it when at full droop.
The shock you have is the same as what our kit offers except for length.

[SSLance]

I got you now Britt, thanks. I will just make sure that the spring is seated in the retainer cup correctly each time it's let down off of a jack. I've done it several times now and it seats right every time. I might take the delrin washer out of that end of the spring though just to keep it from getting tangled up as I can see that happening.

[Rod]

I had a bit of trouble getting the upper spring retainer cup over the Ridetech logo sticker on the shock body and part of the sticker got caught in the threads and freaked me out a bit when putting one of them together. Hate to say it but if I ever have to do that again, I'll remove the sticker and clean the body real well before putting the retainer cup on to prevent this from happening.

ok. not to hijack this but since many are watching the thread heres a tip on shock assembly to help others,
use a screw driver to spread the collar and insert some body shims to hold it open it will also tread on to the shock body with more ease, then simply wiggle the shims out of the collar when done and keep building
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0514_zps20ff5df0-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0515_zps8eea982f-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0516_zpsff4e0a05-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0518_zps19078726-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/GEDC0518_zps19078726-1.jpg

back to the regularly scheduled program

[SSLance]

Great idea Rodney. I had the screwdriver part down, but not the included shims. That would have helped a lot.

I'm trying to figure out how to get a light coat of anti-seize on the shock body threads without having it walk all over me and everything else on the car during assembly.

[marolf101x]

To add to what Rod said. . .I tend to use a thick 5/8" washer to hold the threaded spring retainer open while I get it into position.

[GrabberGT]

Very useful ideas guys. I just got mine in today and will be getting them installed soon.