Retrofit Hydraulic Roller

[ROBS6T8]

Hey guys, I've decided to change the cam in my SBC 350. I know nothing of this cam besides a .580 lift. Which means squat! I know the power doesn't kick in until 3,000 and then it's a hoot! I don't see myself driving around at that rpm.
I contacted two companys and have my eyes on the cam needed. My issue is this... One company tells me I need to change out the valve springs along with everything else, pushrods, lifters, etc. The other company tells me that all I need are new pushrods and a thrust button. They tell me my springs should be fine. The motor has 5,000 miles on it and is a stock crate motor besides the cam of course.
To change the valve springs or not? I see a lot of retrofit kits that don't have the valve springs, just the cam and lifters and some with pushrods.
Any thoughts or comments?

[Ron Sutton]

What is the cam brand & part # ?

[ROBS6T8]

Ron,
Thanks for stopping by. I was looking at Comp cams kit k12-423-8. This kit includes everything. I was also looking at Howard's kit CL113215-10. This is just the cam and lifters. Edelbrock has a kit that contains the cam, lifters, and pushrods. Comp has smaller kits also that don't include everything just like the Howard's and Edelbrock kit.

[sam 74]

best thing to do is find out what specs your current springs are and compare to what the cam needs, typically a roller cam requires more pressure than a standard hyd. cam. you'll definitely need new push rods since the dimensions of the lifter will be different, i usually just change everything springs, lifters, and push rods just to make sure everything is going to work together correctly, adding a thrust button is a must in my opinion you don't want that cam walking. one more thing to look at is your distributor gear, depending on the cam you get you'll need to change to a bronze gear as well.

[ROBS6T8]

Thanks Sam.
Howard's told me pushrods and thrust button a must. I like the idea of replacing everything. Then there's no doubt! It's the $600 or $1000 dollar question. I guess by time I buy the other stuff needed with the cheaper kits, I'll be right up there in the end?

[uxojerry]

Contact Chris Straub of Straub technologies. You can give him your engine specs and he can put a pkg together for the same money as ordering from a catalog. He will also take the time to explain your options. Your cheapest route would be to stay solid roller and get a cam more suited to your needs. You can probably do that for $400 or less. Straub will steer you straight.

[sam 74]

Thanks Sam.
Howard's told me pushrods and thrust button a must. I like the idea of replacing everything. Then there's no doubt! It's the $600 or $1000 dollar question. I guess by time I buy the other stuff needed with the cheaper kits, I'll be right up there in the end?

i look at it like this, spend a thousand now or a few thousand later if the parts are not right. if you have to light of a spring you'll float valves and have all sorts of other problems, its best to do it right the first time. like i said before take a spring or two out and test them, that;ll give you an idea if you'll be able to run them or not, is your current cam solid or hyd? if its Hyd i doubt they'll be able to be reused.

[ROBS6T8]

Contact Chris Straub of Straub technologies. You can give him your engine specs and he can put a pkg together for the same money as ordering from a catalog. He will also take the time to explain your options. Your cheapest route would be to stay solid roller and get a cam more suited to your needs. You can probably do that for $400 or less. Straub will steer you straight.
Thank you Jerry. I've heard a lot about Chris. I know sticking with the flat tappet would be cheaper. I was just looking at the less maintenance and lack of oil additives in todays oil for the girly roller! i know nothing about this motor. It was in when I bought it. .580 lift is all. Evil bay purchase years ago.


i look at it like this, spend a thousand now or a few thousand later if the parts are not right. if you have to light of a spring you'll float valves and have all sorts of other problems, its best to do it right the first time. like i said before take a spring or two out and test them, that;ll give you an idea if you'll be able to run them or not, is your current cam solid or hyd? if its Hyd i doubt they'll be able to be reused.
Sam, I will probably go with the entire kit from Comp. it does make sense. I contacted Edelbrock about their kit and they told me that I needed to change the springs as well! Enough said. LSx? :lmao: Joking people. Not that kind of money here!
Thanks for the help. :cheers:

[Mkelcy]

Retro rollers are heavy, and very prone to floating. I'd be more inclined to believe the vendors who tell you to replace the springs, than those who say the springs that worked with the much lighter non-roller lifters will be fine.

[67rally]

LSx? :lmao: Joking people. Not that kind of money here!
Thanks for the help. :cheers:

Do it, do it!:naughty:

[FMG CAMARO]

Don't forget to check your piston to valve clearance with a new camshaft.. The last thing you want to do is smack a valve.

[Todd in Vancouver]

Check out the Lunati cam in my build thread and have a listen to that scream at 7,000 rpm and you may want to call the boys over there. They were really helpful in getting the right set up in my car so bounce some questions off them.

[Zspoiler]

Changing from from a regular camshaft to a roller means you have change all the valve train pieces. Might as well throw in a set of head ,intake ,and timing cover gasket as well.

[TheJDMan]

I installed the Edelbrock #22015 retro roller cam kit in my 1st gen SBC. It is good from 1500-6500 rpm and is very driveable in normal stop and go traffic but will still set you back in the seat. I have been very happy with it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-22015/overview/

[ROBS6T8]

I forgot about this thread. Thanks Steve. That kit requires the springs. I'm going to go with the Comp kit. I will contact Lunati first with some questions.
Thanks again guys.

[67rally]

I forgot about this thread. Thanks Steve. That kit requires the springs. I'm going to go with the Comp kit. I will contact Lunati first with some questions.
Thanks again guys.

Comp cam with your LSx right?:naughty:

[ROBS6T8]

Comp cam with your LSx right?:naughty:

How'd you know? It was suppose to be a secret. Thanks. I guess I'll stick with the small block, Gen 1 of course!

[alphaenvirmgt]

Comp Cam hydraulic roller all the way! You won't be sorry. It is NOT cheap but good parts never are!
Conrad

[TheJDMan]

I killed my old 327 with the 22015 Edelbrock roller. I was very happy with that cam but for my new 383 stroker build I want to step things up a bit so I plan on running the Comp 4-Pattern cam #12-471-44.