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rhinodoc
08-13-2013, 06:24 PM
I'm starting a 67 firebird build. My plan is to make 600-700HP. The car will likely split time between the street and strip. The car will rarely see an autocross day. After looking through several posts and talking with a few folks, I've narrowed my rear suspension options to the Chassisworks g-link and Ridetech 4 link. I'm leaning toward the g-link. My concerns are achieving a lowered stance, finding an exhaust to fit and notching the frame if I decide to go with a mini tub setup (not sure how big of deal this is). I'm not sure what I need to do in regards to a front suspension. I want to do the front as budget friendly as possible but don't mind spending a little more if the cost can be justified. I've looked as using Ridetech coilovers or using a budget subframe. It looks like replacing the subframe allows you to easily upgrade your steering to rack and pinion. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Sales-TCI-Eng
08-14-2013, 09:09 AM
Street & Strip?


Nitrous fed 582 Big Block using our mini-tub 4-link kit. This same kit also posted .96g skid pad and 48 mph slalom numbers with 200 Treadwear 255 & 295 tires(CPP's Yellow '70 Nova).
Best ET 9.84
Best 60 foot 1.42
Best MPH 139.88

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/daddysburnoutatlowes_zpsf99eb6df-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/scan0001_zps006a98b3-1.jpg

o3SZr-fLlY8


-J

Ron Sutton
08-14-2013, 09:13 AM
Street & Strip?


Nitrous fed 582 Big Block using our mini-tub 4-link kit. This same kit also posted .96g skid pad and 48 mph slalom numbers with 200 Treadwear 255 & 295 tires(CPP's Yellow '70 Nova).
Best ET 9.84
Best 60 foot 1.42
Best MPH 139.88

-J

Nice !

BMR Sales
08-16-2013, 12:51 PM
Welcome to the site...... try to post a few pics of the car when you get a chance. I am a big fan of the early birds!

We offer the most well-balanced, easy to install rear suspension available for the 1st & 2nd generation Camaro/Firebirds. Using our proven track record in torque arm development and application we developed a torque arm conversion kit that brings modern suspension technology to these cars.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/6769framenobackground-1.jpg (http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/BMR-Suspension/media/67%2069%20F%20body/67-69framenobackground.jpg.html)

Here is a VERY informative tech article written by our R&D manager explaining what it does:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/chassis/suspension_steering/1206chp_torque_arm_suspension_systems/

The guys at V8TV recently shot a great install and results video of our kit on a customers 71 Firebird:
http://youtu.be/NRKGqDRSLgc

Here is a video of a customer who got 2nd place in Street Machine Class at Kansas Good Guys last Summer. He was running air over shocks built for ride quality not performance and had not adjusted the roll center via Watt’s Link….. he should be able to cut some major time off just by addressing these issues.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jf9qK5GLD-Q&feature=relmfu


Here is a install article that Super Chevy did a few years back:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/chassis/suspension_steering/sucp_1111_bmr_rear_suspension_install_strong_arm/



We offer a Torque Arm kit for the stock GM 10 & 12 bolt rear differentials and a kit for guys who want a Ford 9". The Ford 9” kit includes a bare Strange housing for $600 more than the 10 & 12 bolt kits. Take a look at the link below detailing an install that a Pro-Touring member completed with our Ford 9 in. kit in his 1973 Firebird:

https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?80483-BMR-Torque-Arm-Installed-on-my-73-Firebird/page2&highlight=TORQUE+ARM


The owner of the 73 Firebird made the following comments to us:

“I've put 4000 miles on it and drive it at every possible opportunity. No track time yet due to other commitments but there is always this spring. I still have to play with the shock settings to soften up the launch, it is just incredible how the car reacts from the factory setup. The rear stays planted no matter if it's in the corners or straights. I've had ZERO issues with the entire setup, I'm EXTREMELY HAPPY with it. I hope to get some auto-x & road course time this spring.”

I still can't thank you all there enough for everything, the kit really changed the car into a ride that I truly enjoy driving.”


Our entire 67-69 suspension system was recently showcased on Two Guys Garage as well:

http://youtu.be/n60dENFWPFY

T-CHRGD
08-16-2013, 02:46 PM
I'm starting a 67 firebird build. My plan is to make 600-700HP. The car will likely split time between the street and strip. The car will rarely see an autocross day. After looking through several posts and talking with a few folks, I've narrowed my rear suspension options to the Chassisworks g-link and Ridetech 4 link. I'm leaning toward the g-link. My concerns are achieving a lowered stance, finding an exhaust to fit and notching the frame if I decide to go with a mini tub setup (not sure how big of deal this is). I'm not sure what I need to do in regards to a front suspension. I want to do the front as budget friendly as possible but don't mind spending a little more if the cost can be justified. I've looked as using Ridetech coilovers or using a budget subframe. It looks like replacing the subframe allows you to easily upgrade your steering to rack and pinion. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Give Mark at SC&C a call. He can go over all your options.

rhinodoc
08-26-2013, 09:11 AM
I'm still pretty torn between the G link and ridetech setup... I really like the ride height achieved by the ridetech setup but I'm concerned about being able to run the exhaust out the back and having to buy a custom tank with the Ridetech setup. Also, it seems that the G-link would have more "antisquat" which could help with 60' times. Ultimately, I think both look like good options. As far as the front suspension, I think I'll end up going with Ridetech. What do you guys think about runningthe Ridetech front with G-link rear?

Carl @ Chassisworks
08-26-2013, 11:13 AM
Hey rhinodoc, I just saw this thread and thought I'd throw you some info.

First, the g-Link link bars and related components will handle more horsepower and has more adjustment than any of our competitors. They have rebuildable spherical pivots with polymer bearing races, not heim joints. This keeps them consistent at the track but less noisy on the street.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/5826a10_1_-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/5826a10_2_-1.jpg

The Mustang in the pic below belongs to Chris Lancaster. It is the quickest g-Link car out there that I'm aware of. It's running 8.0's at 175 last I heard. He tied all the suspension mounting mounts into the roll cage.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/lancaster8-1.jpg


You were asking about routing the exhaust. Here's a pic of a '69 with the splined-end, housing mounted antiroll bar.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif