View Full Version : Brake bleeding

09-07-2004, 07:13 PM
i need some hints or help in general. i am trying to bleed my BAER brakes and am having problems getting a solid pedal feel. i am probally going to get a vacume bleeder, 1 man system, but any help would be great, i started off with a completely dry system, new everything, and i dont seem to have any leaks. thanks

09-07-2004, 07:50 PM
just start with the right rear than the left rear than the right front than the left front. untill you know you are not getting any more air bubbles. you will need to bolt on the rims and tires to get a real feel for how hard of pedal you have. if you dont have the rims and tires on the floating rotors can move or flex making the pedal feel soft.i hope this helps you

09-07-2004, 08:26 PM
I run the lugs on the rotors to hold them in place. I also run clear tubing from the bleeder to a glass jar half full of clean brake fluid. Then opening one bleeder at a time, SLOWLY stroke the pedal until there is no more air, then close the bleeder and move on to the next wheel. Sometimes you will have to do the fronts then go to the rear and back to the fronts.

09-08-2004, 09:35 AM
With a totally dry system, it will take you a little while to get all the fluid through the system. I know it took me a long time to get the GTO bled. I went around the whole car 4 times before the pedal started to firm up. Start at the furthest wheel and work towards the closest.


09-08-2004, 10:16 AM
I haven't tried this yet but I saw Tom (chicane) bleed my system using gravity - the master must be bench bled. Open the furthest until you see fluid start to drip - do not press the pedal lightly tap on the calipers and the master cylinder to dislodge any bubbles and make sure the fluid level is topped off at all times. Wait until there is a consistent light "flow" and close. Go to the next and so on. I think the details are close. Maybe Tom will chime in.

09-08-2004, 11:19 AM
I use the gravity method alot at work. It is too easy to open the bleeders and walk away while doing something else and let the brakes bleed themselves. It's good to go back and re-bleed with a helper later just to be sure. The gravity method is actually the best way to fill a dry system. Fill the master and walk away for a while with the bleeders open.

09-08-2004, 12:18 PM
ok i'll try that, i figured it would take a wile for it to bleed through a completely dry system. thanks for the suggestions.

09-08-2004, 01:19 PM
This may not apply here but it is something to consider.
When you have a helper working the brake pedal pay attention to when you close the bleeder on the down stroke. If you wait until the pedal is all the way to the floor there is a good chance the pistons will relax and draw air back into the system. I always have my helper holler out when the pedal gets to a little over halfway and I close the bleeder then. This way I know the system was under pressure and it won't be back filling the caliper with air.

09-12-2004, 01:58 PM
I have a similar problem.... All new aluminum master cylinder and hydratech booster. All new lines and valves. Dry system.
Filled master cylinder resevoir and it will not feed into the brake lines.
Does anyone know why this could be happening? (or not happening).

Thanks! -JT

09-13-2004, 07:33 AM
I had one h**l of a time bleeding my rear brakes. I have the S10 master cylinder and C4 brakes in the rear. It was impossible to get any fluid running to the back. I tried everything, gravity, pumping, slowpumping, nothing would do it.

Finally I got hold of a vacuum bleeder that connects to my air compressor. Then it was made in 30 seconds!!

I got some help from the old ProTouring forum back then and apparently some master cylinders are very difficult to bleed when there is a dry system.