1966 Malibu LSX376/T56 PT attempt...

[jamier2]

I've been reading here for quite a while. Sold my 2009 Z06 to get my dream car and now it's time to get this thing moving!


Car is original V8 Malibu. Somewhere along the line a 305 was put in and it runs fine but has no power at all. Especially compared to my old Z06.


Here's what I have / have ordered so far:


SC&C AFX performance package with almost all the upgrades possible - all parts now in, just waiting on the shocks.
Kore3 C6 front brake kit
Power brake booster/master
JGC steering box already installed
GMPP LSX376, corvette accessory drive/intake/coils
Hooker SuperComp ceramic long tube headers 2289-1HKR
DirtyDingo Double-D mounts
T-56 Magnum - "Street" wide ratio
Monster stage 2 clutch
Quicktime 8020 bellhousing
Griffin 8-00009-LS radiator
Corvette fuel filter/regulator


Next things on the order list:
Hydraulic clutch kit - I think the Keisler kit is about as good as it gets, saw tommycomfort used it on his 66 and was happy with it.
Fuel tank/pump - planned to use Tanks Inc pump and modify my tank but they just added 66 Chevelle EFI tanks to their site so I'm going to go with that. I am going to call them to find out if it's possible to modify the filler neck to accept one of the new "fill through" caps so I don't have to crawl on my knees to fill this thing up. A bonus is the new tank is 1" deeper so it should have a higher capacity too.


I'm sure I'll need a rear end replacement soon. I was about ready to order a Currie fab9 but I will have to wait a month or two before I order that. I'm waiting to do the rear brakes until I decide which rear end I'm using.


The things I'm not sure on as of now:


The radiator I ordered has in/out both on passenger side and I don't know which hoses I'll need.
Radiator fans - I'm thinking about the two speed Volvo, but may just get the setup Griffin makes for the radiator I ordered. Not sure. I am glad that my engine controller can control the relays so I don't have to make that up myself.


I'm sure I have forgotten something along the way. I know I'll have to get a custom / modified driveshaft. I am also planning to modify the original trans crossmember if possible - but I sure wish someone made an adjustable crossmember for the 66s.


Any advice/opinions? I'm expecting 450HP (maybe more with tuning) from my LSX as is. I do plan to add a supercharger in the future, but I want to iron out the rest before I jump into that.


Was planning to do the interior and repaint this fall as well, but the LS/T56 swap is getting pretty expensive so I will wait a while on that.


I'll have to upload some pictures soon.

[jamier2]

Made great progress - considering it's just me working alone.

Got the oil pan gasket installed, can't figure out how the dipstick tube is supposed to go, I guess I'll do that after the headers are on. Here's the first test fit of LSX alone:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0001_2_zps62f233b9-1.jpg

T56 Magnum showed up today and the RM8020 QuickTime bellhousing was a perfect match. Got it mounted after a test fit of just the motor. I am considering applying for a patent for that sweet shifter hole cover I invented:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0002_2_zps5d35dfcf-1.jpg

Cut the floor mildly, I left the front attached and let it hinge open to fit the trans.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0010_zps1b4b48bb-1.jpg

I ended up getting the motor/trans in as a unit and it's sitting there now. I still have to test-fit the headers before I see what I can do about a trans crossmember.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0004_zpsbba12c51-1.jpg

Firewall clearance
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0007_zpsffec5efc-1.jpg

Picture of engine mount with Double-D Dirty Dingo mount - set at neutral now. I will put it at 1" back if needed for the headers. I hope I can keep it as is since I'd have easy access to the bellhousing bolts and just might be able to fit the coils on the firewall too.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0006_zps8470cc4b-1.jpg

[jamier2]

Got the clutch pedal installed. I used a set I found on eBay and the Keisler master cylinder mount.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0003_zps7d8c956b-1.jpg

SPC arms and AFX spindles installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_00021_zps2362a37d-1.jpg

[cactuss4]

w00t.. fun stuff!!! Any pictures before you went to work?

[jamier2]

I have some but I'll have to see if they're on my computer or on the phone. Not sure how to get pics up here from my phone.

Test fit the headers - motor has to go to the rearmost position on the Double-D mounts. I got a moroso motor mount shim kit just in case, and I think I'm going to go ahead and raise it a bit for the next trial fit too to ensure I clear my steering. It's pretty close right now.

I am having a hard time picturing how I'm going to get the DBW vette pedal mounted. If anyone has pictures of one mounted I'd appreciate it. I am thinking of using hex standoffs to space it from the firewall. I'm also wondering if using all-thread and jam nuts to set the height would work?

Kind of stuck waiting on parts right now. Hopefully by Monday I'll have enough deliveries to get going again.

[jamier2]

Little background: I've always loved 66 Chevelles above all other cars. 70s are a close second. When wife got pregnant we decided the Z06 just wouldn't work since we couldn't all ride in it - and the only place I go alone is usually work.

We picked the car up like this a few months ago:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/photo_zps63f39c80-1.jpg

It's a 136 car, Malibu, very bare bones. No power anything. I added power steering quickly and that helped. Next was getting better wheels/tires. I went with Ridler 695s and Hankook Ventus V12s.


Here it is when I looked at it to buy:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/photo5_zpsb9c7c910-1.jpg

Loaded on the truck:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/photo6_zpsd15869f9-1.jpg

Home:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/photo1_zps158dcb12-1.jpg

New rear tires vs old tires:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/photo8_zpsfe9b2a0b-1.jpg

Ridlers and Hankook tires on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/photo9_zps1e8ac8ff-1.jpg

My son's first car ride - had to bring him home in the Chevelle!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/photo3_zpsb3ca2225-1.jpg

[jamier2]

Not a lot of progress. Pulled motor/trans today to move motor mounts forward and add spacers to lift a tad. The tie rod ends looked to be close to touching with the motor forward and I'm sure they'd hit with it moved back so I'll go ahead and raise it.

Finally found a way to securely mount the Corvette DBW pedal. I'm pretty happy with it and it's just about exactly how GM recommends in the instructions.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/photo10_zpsd0667e3d-1.jpg

[cactuss4]

Awesome, thanks for taking the time to bring us up to date :) Very cool!!!

[analyte]

Nice project. Subscribed!!

[jamier2]

Slow progress (this pattern is not helping my motivation, but I gave myself 4 weeks so I am still nearly on schedule).

The pilot bearing that came with my LS7 clutch/flywheel kit DOES NOT work with the T56 Magnum. I have to pull that back out and get a LS1 style smaller pilot. That took up a lot of time and aggravation today. I should be able to get one locally so no big deal.

I have discovered that using the OEM T56 throwout bearing is nice, but finding lines that fit that but convert to the type on my wilwood master is apparently impossible. So today I ordered these:
Russell 640281 - converts quick connect to -3 AN
Allstar ALL46332-48 - 48" braided high pressure hose with -3 on one end and 3/8-24 90 on the other. Should work pretty well. It won't have the nice upper bleed point like the Keisler line does, but it will allow me to get connected. I already have a bleeder connection so I should be set as far as clutch hydraulics once these parts come in.

Tomorrow I'm shifting my focus to the brakes. Hoping to make some progress for a change. Can't get the motor/trans back in until Monday when those parts arrive so I might as well work on brakes and maybe fuel pump / filter/regulator / lines.

[jamier2]

Thanks to extra fast delivery by Amazon I got my parts today. The quick connect was tough only because I didn't have a straight punch and had to improvise to get the rolled pin out.

Got trans fully assembled and mounted to motor. Engine/trans are in now and headers fit (tight fit but not hard to get on or off alone.) the steering clears without any trimming. I did use the Moroso motor mount spacers. I know lots of people try to avoid lifting the motor up, but I doubt that 3/8" will be a game changer. I used Proforged tie rods from Summit - not sure if that matters. One thing I notice compared to pics I've seen of other builds is my grease zerks are not on the end of the links, they're on the back (opposite of the castle nut facing rear of car), and that may help with clearance.

I'm working on suspension and brakes now. Plenty to do, but I'm having a ball.

[jamier2]

So I decided to check the crossmember fit today. Surprisingly close. I don't know if mine is original, but I think it is since it holds the E brake cable. It has the double exhaust humps.

So with it between the frame rails (further back of course) it is almost perfect. Just about 3/4" too high. I'm thinking of just bolting it on the bottom of the frame rail with a washer between the crossmember and frame. Should put it just about right.

Any reason it wouldn't be safe like this? I did use a standard polyurethane trans mount. I wonder if anyone makes a low profile mount since that would work too.

If anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it.

[72BBSwinger]

I would make a plate/washer to mimick the pad on the frame rail it would have sat on in the stock configuration. That way it is held with as much contact area as before. Thats how I would get peace of mind with that setup. Instead of just washers on bolts you follow?

[srh3trinity]

Bringing your son home in the car adds an awesome chapter in this car's life.

[jamier2]

I would make a plate/washer to mimick the pad on the frame rail it would have sat on in the stock configuration. That way it is held with as much contact area as before. Thats how I would get peace of mind with that setup. Instead of just washers on bolts you follow?

I think that I will do that. Makes sense.

[jamier2]

Bringing your son home in the car adds an awesome chapter in this car's life.

Absolutely. I was so happy it worked out. That was the last trip before the updates.

[uxojerry]

Since you are planning a power adder later, you may want to get a little larger fuel pump and injectors now so you dont have to buy components twice. Same with headers or truck manifolds. Buy them for a turbo application but use them conventionally for now. If a Holley Hi Ram can clear the hood, that would be another good choice and get you a few hp in na mode. Turbo makes the most sense as you wont have to discard the components already purchased. Good luck with your build!!

[jamier2]

Since you are planning a power adder later, you may want to get a little larger fuel pump and injectors now so you dont have to buy components twice. Same with headers or truck manifolds. Buy them for a turbo application but use them conventionally for now. If a Holley Hi Ram can clear the hood, that would be another good choice and get you a few hp in na mode. Turbo makes the most sense as you wont have to discard the components already purchased. Good luck with your build!!

Good advice there. I am using a pretty cheap fuel pump for now only because the Tanks, Inc setup won't be out before winter. They have a really nice EFI tank coming that has more capacity and what looks like a great sump arrangement. I'll replace the temporary setup with that soon.

I'm planning to do a supercharger instead of turbo (assuming plans don't change) so I should just be losing my intake. If I could do it all now I would but its already cost me a small fortune as it is. I am thinking I will finish the restoration next year and look at adding power after that - maybe two years out.

[jamier2]

Got the trans mounted. I cut and rewelded the original like so many others have done. It wasn't too bad.

Pretty excited to have the motor and trans sitting in the car for real. Hoping to get brakes done and fuel plumbed over the next few days.

[jamier2]

Got the front sway bar on today and adjusted the suspension to where it is close to drivable. I got the Hellwig sway bar and it is pretty wide at the mounts. I know they're supposed to be as vertical as possible but mine are not really close - the top (sway bar end) is almost 2" wider than the sway bar mount location on the SPC lower control arms. I doubt it'll hurt anything, but I wish it lined up better.

I should have my water pump and accessory drive finished tomorrow. I have no freaking idea where to plumb all these small hose fittings on my motor to??? I know there's a steam line, and a PCV line that needs to go through a filter (and on to intake???) but there are two more that I have no idea what they are. The GMPP instructions mention that they are part of the PCV system (I think) but they don't say what to do with them.

I'm really delaying the brakes - only because I am fairly sure it'll be an aggravating experience.

[jamier2]

Got the accessory drive finished. Very big thanks to Pace performance. I ordered a water pump from them expecting the bolts to be included in the accessory drive kit I also purchased. I was mistaken, but they went ahead and sent the bolts right away, even though they really didn't have to.

Here's the finished accessory drive:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0001_17_zps98572d15-1.jpg

I went ahead and tried the cheap way to get my power steering plumbed, and it worked great! I ordered a $14.xx 2001 Corvette PS pressure hose from advance auto and it works great. The tubing is a little torqued when I finished, but nowhere near concerning.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0002_15_zpsb70edeab-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0003_11_zpsc03025c2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_0004_10_zps51e7a085-1.jpg

The clearance between the fitting and the pulley is pretty small, but it shouldn't ever move and it does clear.

[jamier2]

Got most of the controller harness on today and started the brakes. I'm ready to put the doghouse back on and get the front buttoned up before my new rear end shows up.

Very irritated at the wait for my shocks. 3 dang months and no response from Marcus at SC&C. I keep reading great things about the Varishock QS1s so I really hope the wait is worth it.

[jamier2]

Really hoped I could finish before the LS Fest but it won't happen this year. Started ordering parts 3 months ago...

I'll be there this year, and hopefully the car will be next year.

[jamier2]

Well I went to LS Fest today (lucky it is here in my hometown) and got to see a 66 El Camino and 3 66-7 Chevelles with LS engines.

I bit the bullet tonight and orderd CBM's truck coil brackets (CBM-11016). I was glad to see two of them had seats very similar to the BMW 3 series seats I plan to use and they didn't look out of place in the cars. Husband and wife had one each. His was blue/silverish coupe and hers was yellow convertible.

I got my radiator on but I think I will have to lower it to make sure it clears the hood. Progress is pretty slow.

[jamier2]

Slow progress is still progress I guess. I removed the stock fuel lines and a few wires I won't be using. Also got starter and radiator on for good.

Need radiator and steam vent hoses. Need to decide which fan I'm going to use. Probably go with a single. Nice thing about the GMPP kit is it comes with built in fan control and relay. Just need to connect the wire and it should be good.

Also need to order a set of universal spark plug wires so I can get that going when my brackets get here.

[jamier2]

I ended up buying a Derale dual fan (4000 cfm, 50 amp) setup that includes a nice shroud and even has flaps for higher air flow when driving. Seems to be well made and it even comes with relays for install. I'll be using the GMPP control wire to activate the relays to get power to the fans. It's not in this picture (didn't realize that in my original post) - this is just the Griffin LS radiator in final position. I will have to trim the shroud some to clear my radiator hose inlet/outlet and the drain.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/IMG_0003_2_zpse927e2eb-1.jpg

I also got my Dakota Digital gauge cluster and got it mounted. Still need to finish the dash re-assembly, but it's very close to done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/IMG_0001_2_zps5797d4ac-1.jpg

Not a lot of progress but still making progress. I did get my Chassisworks QS1 front shocks in today too. They look very nice. Now to disassemble the front to put them on...

[SparkyRnD]

great looking build so far!

[jamier2]

I think the next project will be to put the hump/floor back. I think having the interior back would help motivate me some.

[jamier2]

Started it up tonight and it ran like a champ! I ended up using the Airaid U-Build-It for the intake and got almost everything under the hood done for good now.

Just waiting for my rear end to show up to get this thing on the road. Sounds so good. I'll see if I can figure out how to load a video.

[jamier2]

http://youtu.be/-1d7-_ROZdQ

[SparkyRnD]

that's awesome!

[jamier2]

Well I'm pretty frustrated here. I don't have anything else to put on the car, but can't get going!

I have everything installed except my new rear end and brakes because the order that was estimated to take "2-3 weeks" is now at 11 weeks and still isn't even on its way! I was hoping to get going before winter sets in so I could drive some and that's looking pretty unlikely.

I suppose the plan now will be to just go ahead and do the wiring and vintage air since I'm down anyway. The car starts and runs, but there's some backfiring that I don't like - I'm hoping that is just because the O2 sensors are too close to the end of the exhaust.

[splatt]

I think your upper control arms are flipped side to side. The solid part at the ball joint goes forward.I have a set ready to go on my car too. Car looks great.I can't wait to take my little one for a ride in mine.

[jamier2]

I think your upper control arms are flipped side to side. The solid part at the ball joint goes forward.I have a set ready to go on my car too. Car looks great.I can't wait to take my little one for a ride in mine.

Just rechecked my instructions. They say welded seam goes forward.

*** Update:

I just rechecked my upper arms and I have them backward - the welded part is facing the rear! Thanks for the heads up - can't believe I missed something so obvious. I am switching them now.

[splatt]

Glad to help

[jamier2]

Been bad about updates. I got the rear end and rear brakes installed. Got the sway bars on both ends. Brakes bled - only had a problem with one flare. Driveshaft from Dynotech (3 1/2" aluminum, 1350 joints) is awesome and in place.

All I have now is to drop the hood back on and take it for an alignment and get my mufflers and x-pipe put back on and I'll be ready to road test!!!

[jamier2]

Well… I got it back on the ground and was ready to load it on the trailer to get my alignment and such done but hit a snag.

When I let out the pedal it engages extremely high and I found that even with my foot off the pedal it slips. I can't even get it loaded. I really don't know why this would happen. I used OEM LS7 clutch/flywheel/pressure plate and OEM LS throwout bearing. I read one place that if the throwout/slave is overextended it will cause the fingers on the pressure plate to bend and will cause it to slip.

I don't really know what is going on as of now, but I can see I'm going to have to take the trans back out to check into a solution. I hate to buy more parts before I know for sure what is wrong. Everything I have read about throwout bearings is that they are often too "short" and need shimming to get full release, but it seems I have the opposite symptoms.

I haven't gotten much from my searching so far so if anyone has an idea what may be going on or how to find out for sure the problem, I would appreciate any ideas.

[jamier2]

It's a T56 Magnum, brand new aftermarket.

Slave is 24264182 OEM for 98-02 LS1 from Tick Performance - I was told this was the one that works most reliably.

[jamier2]

Well I think I know what happened. I had the pushrod for the master adjusted too long. Fixed that and now it holds, but I don't know for sure if it is as it should be. I checked that this afternoon and it was hard tight against the pedal stop so I re-adjusted it and it works much better now.

I am pretty sure I did some damage to the pressure plate by pushing so hard against it, but it is still functional at this point. If I find it doesn't hold enough, I will probably just put a Tick adjustable master and new clutch/plate combo and all that. I definitely need to relocate the clutch pushrod point on the clutch pedal to get the pedal to have a more normal swing to it.

It's on the trailer now to get the exhaust on tomorrow (or alignment, depending on who can get to it first).

[jamier2]

Well yet another hang up. It's at the shop now and when they set the alignment the wheels just about touch the fenders in front. Not even close to driveable. Can't figure this out. The wheels fit with the factory set up but now that I have this they don't. I have looked at multiple cars with similar suspension (some with the same) using similar wheels.

Mine are 18x8, 0 offset, 4.5" BS. I think another 1/2" BS and they'd be fine. However neither the Ridler 695 or Boss 338 come like that.

It's almost like my lower control arms are sticking out about 1/2" too far - and I only say that because I've read about so many other cars with the same suspension using those wheels without trouble.

Really not wanting to have to buy another set of wheels.

[jamier2]

Interesting day today. I think I have my wheels sorted out, am waiting to hear back from the vendors to make sure they are actually in stock before I order them. I will probably have to use a small (up to 1/2") spacer in front, but all in all I think it will be good. The new rear wheels will be the same width as my current set, but have about 0.2" less backspace but it looks like I've easily got that to spare.

So today I picked it up after having the exhaust put on. It sounds decent, not obnoxious but maybe not quite as loud as I'd hoped.

Driving home the clutch was acting as usual - since I adjusted the pushrod it engages fully, but at the top of the pedal. At the insurance office I noticed an odd "pop" that was pretty subtle but the pedal went to feeling perfect! It disengaged at about 3/4 of the pedal travel and felt awesome!

However…

From that point on it very quickly went waaaaaaay downhill. The pedal began to feel spongy, like it wasn't bled right. It progressed to needing to pump it once, then twice, then all the way to three times to get the clutch released. The last time the pedal felt like it wasn't connected to anything, just went down (and back up, didn't stick down or anything), but it did not disengage the clutch at all. I ended up stuck in traffic having to coast to a stop in neutral, then kill the engine, put in gear, then start in first to get going again. I had a friend come use his AAA to get it towed home.

I've heard of the line being too close to the exhaust and boiling the fluid, and that could be the problem I guess. I will go try it again tomorrow to see if it seems to have came back. My gut feeling is that it's the clutch master cylinder. I would guess it died because of a few things:

1. I'm pretty sure I've been overdoing the stroke length, even though part of the appeal of the kit I got is that Keisler said the MC has internal stop to protect it from that.

2. Since I used the factory clutch pedal linkage hole to attach my hydraulic pushrod, I know the angle probably wasn't right either.

One thing I don't understand is why it didn't lose fluid? I checked my reservoir and it is still as full as when I finished bleeding the clutch master initially. I thought that it would probably leak out if it died, but I don't know for sure.

It's a little aggravating to be so close to done and hit these snags, but I am still having fun with it. Of course, the day I get stranded in town it would start to snow! Lucky a friend saw me and I was not out in the cold.

[jamier2]

Updates: New wheels are on. I will post pics soon. They have a totally different look to them but fit nice and there weren't many options with the offset I needed. I got into the clutch next. Well crap. I got the clutch master moved and things are looking great. Put brake booster back on and the linkage - which was adjusted perfectly before - won't fit now. I adjusted the rod quite a bit and apparently caused something inside the booster to come loose. I took it back off and something is rattling inside it now. I had to order a new one. I guess it could be worse.

The new clutch position is much better and the action is very smooth now. I am going to bleed it and hopefully once the new master shows up I can bolt it up and hit the road.

[jamier2]

Got all those ironed out. I still feel like the clutch grabs toward the top of the pedal more than I like. I could cut down the connecting rod but the pedal wouldn't be even with the brake. I could live with that I guess, and I think I've read that most people like them that way.

Drove around the neighborhood and things feel pretty good. I just need to get it aligned and see if I am going to need any spacers for the front wheels. I will definitely be doing my vintage air or other aftermarket AC/heat system soon so I can actually drive some. It's way too cold right now.

[Zoomin]

Love what you're doing so far!

You're about a year ahead of me. I'm doing a 66 Skylark, so I'm reading this to get educated.
How much clearance do you have from the ground with the long tube headers? Did the width of your rear end change with the swap?

[jamier2]

Love what you're doing so far!

You're about a year ahead of me. I'm doing a 66 Skylark, so I'm reading this to get educated.
How much clearance do you have from the ground with the long tube headers? Did the width of your rear end change with the swap?

Thanks. The header clearance is great. They tuck up very close to the body. Almost too high, so I had to have the exhaust bow down a little to clear the crossmember.

I ordered the rear from Currie to the same width as the original. I guess you could get it to any width you wanted.

Have fun with your project. Mine still has a way to go. Before summer I want to rewire mine and put VintageAir on it and redo the interior in black. Then paint. It never ends...

[jamier2]

Well, small update and one very odd clutch/master issue.

So, ordered new wheels to get it align-able. Not too happy with how they look now, but I will either powder coat them, switch paint color, or eventually order custom wheels. Took it in to get aligned last week, but forgot to give them Mark at SC&C's recommended specs (figured they remembered from last time due to the huge ordeal that became - my mistake). Took trailer to pick it up and had to leave it for them to adjust to the right specs. Even emailed them to the manager. Today go to pick it up and the tech just may be the dumbest guy I have ever talked to in person. Apparently he didn't know the + and - on the camber and caster matter, because he got them both exactly backward. Then tells me that "+5 degrees caster will push wheels into fender" - I am no ACE certified mechanic but I do know caster is just the forward/backward tilt of the tie rod end axis. He had it at -5 degrees and said it can't go any more positive without hitting fenders. Luckily for me they had the sheet from the last incorrect alignment and they had it at 0 caster and it didn't hit anything. Manager said they will redo it and call when it's done. I'm hoping to pick it up tomorrow.

For the odd clutch issue: First try at installing the master bracket I had it mounted too low and the clutch pushrod was traveling waaaaaay too far and I ended up with a dead clutch on the way home on my first drive. I took it out and redid it to get the right pushrod travel and alignment. I bled (and bled....) and got it feeling pretty good. Took a lap around the neighborhood and was feeling pretty satisfied with it.

Hadn't touched the car for about 3 weeks due to cold weather so I didn't expect what happened when I tried to load it to take for alignment. I backed out of the garage and the car wouldn't pull itself whatsoever! I was floored, and confused. Keep in mind (all the guys who are sure to say "you need to shim the clutch") this clutch grabbed and felt great a few weeks ago and nothing had been done since.

Well I was pretty frustrated and I'll admit I stomped the clutch in and out a couple times in anger. Oddly, on the third "aggressive" push of the clutch, something popped - fairly loudly - and the clutch felt awesome. It grabs just off the floor and my pedal does not come up as far as it did before. I just barely get the release I need to be able to get it in and out of gear as it is now. Hard to complain, as the clutch is grabbing better than it ever has.

I expect to do some tinkering when I get it back from the alignment shop. I am thinking of just starting by adjusting the rod to raise the pedal a bit to get a little more travel to get the disengagement a little higher off the floor. I have no idea what happened, but one theory I have is that I had overextended the pressure plate fingers and something about me hitting the pedal caused them to snap back to the right orientation. Not really sure if that is even possible, but something drastic changed for sure. I hope to have an update on this once I get it home and get to drive a little and see how it does.

Oh well, that is why it's a project and not a turn-key car. The adventure is just part of the process.