Keep or replace rear frame rails for strength?

[Build-It-Break-It]

Hi, everyone. I'm going to start mini tubing my 68 Camaro and was wondering if i should "upgrade" my rear frame rails to the autoweldchassis.com frame rails? There is absolutely nothing wrong with my frame rails but I'm thinking that if I'm going to beat up on the car the rear sheet metal rails might not handle the abuse. I cut out one side of the mini tub area already and into the frame. I measured the wall thickness of frame and they're only 16 gauge. I know a lot of you have already added suspension to your cars and drove them hard so I'm just trying to get feedback before i spend $600 on stronger rails. I'm going to be going with the g link set up and i saw other peoples frames crack.I know it was from improper installation that still freaks me out. I'm also going to add a front brace to the g link for added strength either way. Any input would be appreciated.

Ahmad

[wayward]

I really like the aftermarket rail idea... I've just notched my frame over the last month. But a discussion over the last few days I have been looking into rails.

I wish I would have thought about it a few months ago...

[Build-It-Break-It]

I really like the aftermarket rail idea... I've just notched my frame over the last month. But a discussion over the last few days I have been looking into rails.

I wish I would have thought about it after months ago... That's exactly why I'm trying to plan ahead. I would just hate to be driving down the road and have the rails crack. But i know some haven't had any problems. I looked up some factory style replacements last night that are 13 gauge but even that seems bit thin. I'll probably end up coughing up the $600 for those frame rails. Better safe then sorry....

[XLexusTech]

if your going to go that far then a square tube back half makes alot of sence...

Like this... http://www.artmorrison.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=8938

[3_z28camaro]

I went this route for replacing those flimsy stock so-called rear "frame rails".
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/camarorearsubframe-1.jpg

http://artmorrison.com/camaro.php

Matt's Classic Bowties can probably get you a good price on one.

The Roadster Shop may also have something in the works as well.

http://roadstershop.com/product/suspension/

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

If you're going to all the effort of replacing the rear rails AND doing a minitub, it's only marginally more work to do a backhalf. We decided to offer the rear frame from the g-Street chassis as a standalone part. If you're going for a low ride height, it's a great option.

Click Here Rear Frame Data Sheet (http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/DataSheets/CamaroRearFrame_DS_WEB.pdf)

The package contains: Factory Welded Rear Clip, Subframe Connectors, Exact-Fit Roll Bar, Rear Clip Floor with Wheel Tubs and Package Tray Bulkhead, Canted 4-Link Suspension with Splined Anti-roll Bar, VariShock Coil-Overs, Springs, and Billet Rear Shock Mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/CamaroRearFrame_at-1.jpg

[wayward]

If you're going to all the effort of replacing the rear rails AND doing a minitub, it's only marginally more work to do a backhalf. We decided to offer the rear frame from the g-Street chassis as a standalone part. If you're going for a low ride height, it's a great option.

Click Here Rear Frame Data Sheet (http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/DataSheets/CamaroRearFrame_DS_WEB.pdf)

The package contains: Factory Welded Rear Clip, Subframe Connectors, Exact-Fit Roll Bar, Rear Clip Floor with Wheel Tubs and Package Tray Bulkhead, Canted 4-Link Suspension with Splined Anti-roll Bar, VariShock Coil-Overs, Springs, and Billet Rear Shock Mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/CamaroRearFrame_at-2.jpg


Does this bolt up to the stock rear end housing or do we need to cut off current tabs and replace?

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

Does this bolt up to the stock rear end housing or do we need to cut off current tabs and replace?
It needs to be paired with a 9" housing, either a FAB9™ or any OEM style housing without a cast center case. The upper bars are canted inward from front to back and should not be welded to the cast center on a 10/12 bolt.

[Build-It-Break-It]

Thanks for the info Carl. But it looks like with that rear clip I'd loose the rear seats, trunk floor etc? I'm buying your g link set up but want to keep the interior stick looking. You can contact me if you have something that'll work? 909-478-2128, thanks

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

Ahmad, good talking with you. Yes, with the kit I posted above you pretty much lose the back seat, definitely any functional back seat. Another option would be our 7154 Canted 4-Bar rear frame aka Package 78F313 (http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1559-canted-tubular-pivot-ball-4-link-rear-clip-4x2-frame-rails.aspx)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/78f313_1_-1.jpg

We'll talk early next week, enjoy your weekend.

Oh, and check out this link for a big build using the 78F313 rear kit which is slightly less invasive: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?94295-1967-Pro-Touring-Firebird-Build

[Build-It-Break-It]

Hey Carl, thanks for taking the time to talk to me. We'll be in touch next week so i can start placing the order!!

[Bmf5150]

If your going to go that far,why not a full chassis like the roadster shop makes!then everything is solid

[Build-It-Break-It]

Because that complete chassis with brakes etc would be around $22,000 compared to just around $3600 for the rear $2800 for the front suspension. After adding in a roll cage the car would be pretty solid for half the cost.

[Bmf5150]

Well if you want it to be rigid, I would do full frame.yes not cheap but the best way to go

[wayward]

If you were going to do a full road race car I would agree on a full chassis. But from an adjustability and "making the chassis work" status. If you were to do the rear clip you automatically pickup a rear cross brace that will provide a substantial increase in stiffness. If you would like to make it stiffer you could run a parallel frame rail and do the cross bracing between the stock rail and new rail, there are a lot of members that have done a beautiful job of doing this in their builds. Then if you use a bolt in transmission crossmember you would be about as still as you could be without doing a roll cage that ties it all together from the trunk area to the engine bay.

I just finished notching my rear frame, I wish i had more meat on my frame back there. It will be fine for my car because its a street driving convertible and a car my wife and I plan on using for taking our vacations. I kept the stock style spring and shocks which make the rear spring pockets really thin. If I would have done coil overs I could have boxed in the spring pockets and would mitigated that, which would have been fine. The rear frame kit is another way to do it and when you do the math to add up the included parts it seems 6 of one and a 1/2 dozen of another financially and it looks nicer.

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

Well if you want it to be rigid, I would do full frame.yes not cheap but the best way to go

We have a complete chassis that's available for the Camaro HERE (http://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_press_67-69Camaro.html). While it's a great system, far more tunable than anything else on the market, it's not just the cost of the parts that needs to be taken into consideration. Typically any car having the entire frame and floor replaced is going to have a lot of additional modifications, also money and time invested, than a car with a simple backhalf. A backhalf is less work than most people think and can still net a huge improvement over a stock rear framed car.

[Cdog]

Jack and I at Starlite Rod & Kustom did the Art Morrison Tri-4 on my 69 last Saturday afternoon. I highly recommend it.
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