Noob help with 1956 Fairlane Hardtop rear suspension setup

[Boilermaker]

I just acquired a '56 Fairlane project. I love the car's lines and looks. It will be a mild custom restomod. The car came with a 351W and C4. The C4 is being tossed for a Richmond 5-sp and the 351 is being bumped to a 393 stroker. Since this is my first car, I have a mentor that is helping me out and he's providing the 393 lower bits, the Richmond 5-sp setup, and the Mustang II front end (coil-over). The 393 is being built up to be a decent power plant with an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake and Lunati Voodoo cam to match the Air Gap's 1500-6500 power band. Heads will probably be AFR 185s or 205s. Carb will be a C&J Engineering. CR will be between 9.5:1 and 10:1, probably on the low end so I can ensure she'll run fine on pump gas.

The car's stock rear suspension and axle are scrap heap bound. The leafs are bent and the 8" can't handle the power even when stuffed with Currie goodies. So a 9" axle is being pulled from a '58-'60 T-Bird (if I knew the 390FE in it was good, I'd just use that engine...).

I'll upgrade the bushings all around and upgrade the sway bars, but my dilemma is what to do for the rear suspension. My goal is to have a sporty ride and good handling to match the power and brakes the car will have (12" disc Wilwood 4-pot front, 11.75" disc Ford 4-pot rear). I'm running a manual Mustang II steering rack and Wilwood manual 7/8" MC so I don't plan to AutoX the car, but I want to be able to join in a Power Tour cruise or find a fun winding two-lane road and not have to white knuckle it through the turns.

I can't afford the higher end 4-link kits, Morrison chassis, or such; but Helix Suspension has a Heavy Duty 4-Link Kit with shock mounts for $380 that I would combine with QA1 shocks. The other option is to use the TCI Tri5 parts to put the leaf mounts into the frame (as SuperChevy magazine did), brace the frame and then add Lakewood traction bars and/or a Watts Link with QA1 shocks.

I haven't figured up the costs for the TCI components, I need to call them to see if everything will fit. I have a feeling their shock mount brace will have to be modded for the Fairlane. If the Helix 4-Link kit is cheaper, which I suspect it will be, is it a reliable product? They claim it is stronger than the rest and it uses 0.156 wall tubing.

One last point to consider, I'd like to tow a pop-up camper with the car when it's all said and done, that way we can cruise to more shows and camp. I figure the total weight of the camper will be in the 3500lb to 4500lb range. I know I can add air shocks to help raise the rear end when towing, but how well do 4-links tow loads?

Is the 4-Link still the better way to go or am I better off with the modified leaf spring suspension since I want to tow?

Thanks everyone!

[Bryce]

Helix is made in China. I would go with TCI.

The new Ram has a four link and can tow okay.

[Boilermaker]

Thanks Bryce. TCI no longer has the parts, but Eckerts Classic Chevy does! My fabricator said we should be able to make it work. I won't call these parts Chevy parts though. I'm trying to keep my car all Ford/Lincoln/Mercury, through and through. Though I may break down and use either Chevy or Chrysler springs because there are more aftermarket improved springs for the Chevy. Might try to make Chrysler 300 leafs work since they were a better design too. We'll use the TCI/Eckerts Tri5 shock mount brace to ensure we locate the shocks correctly, though it will probably need to be modded for the Ford.

Eckerts also had a weld in traction bar for the pocket suspension kit. Would that be better than Lakewood bars? Is there any reason not to use both traction bars and a Watts Link?

The cost for the pocketed leaf spring kit, leaf springs, traction bars, Watts Link, and shocks is probably approaching the cost of a better US-made 4-Link kit and coilovers, so I will still have to weigh my options.

[MonzaRacer]

Here you go for a heavy 4 link. I know Ridetech uses .219 wall (DOM I think) in the parallel units http://www.ridetech.com/store/weld-in-air4link-triangulated.html
With this you then pick up the coil over adapters and install what ever you want, OR depending on what you want you could buy the u build it kit for regular air springs, do like I did for my 71 Monte and use single air lines and outside fittings to each spring. Drove it like 2 yrs and only time I added air was when I loaded up heavy parts (Monte trunks are HUGE!)
I loved the ride, the handling and load capacity.
NOW for a slightly different idea you COULD build a "swing arm or truck arm" set up. either with cut off leafs or just make a solid arm that bolts to spring perches. add in a cross member of decent size materiel and add air springs or coil overs from something ,,,if wanting too tow even variable rate coils could be used.
As for swing arm set up I did it on ,my yellow Monza and it will be in my latest one till my cross member is done for my own designed 4 link for Monza.
If you want a decent ride with driving ability and straightline performance call Jegs and have them whip up a set of Jegster SS bars, take one pin out and they still look like a ladder bar set up but without the binding issues, put it back in and they work like regualr ladder bars.

[Boilermaker]

Thanks Lee!

I'm going RideTech 4-Link!

My local shop will give me a discount on the 4-Link and cross member kits if I pick them up Will Call at RideTech, which he said he could arrange.

My mentor has AFCO coil overs which may work too since I'm lowering the car about 2". I'll eventually get progressive springs for the coil overs, but for now I'm just going to use standard springs. We'll get the height determined, then make sure the geometries are correct and determine the best coil over size from there. I'll give up a 1/2" of height either way to make sure the geometry is best suited to handling.

[fordsbyjay]

Any updates?

Have you looked underneath your 56? The rearend is right behind the back seat and those AirRide upper links look pretty long. I'm curious as to how you made out.

[Boilermaker]

Hey Jason

Sorry for the long delay in the reply, I've been unbelievably busy year.

I haven't purchased the 4-link setup yet. I found out a customer friend of mine knows the owner of RideTech, so if there are any major issues I know I can get them resolved... I may even pursue a little help on the front side before I buy the kit... The delay has been more financial than anything else. I just need a lot of cash to buy all the other components I need for the driveline and many other household projects have taken priority for the next year or so. I haven't had time to sell off the parts I don't plan to keep to raise the funds for the RideTech bits.

I'm planning to do quite a bit of custom work in the rear seat, frame, and wheel wells anyway, so if we need to shorten up the links, we will. The rear seat will be a '59/'60 T-Bird seat, bolstered and modified to fit. I haven't decided if I'll add a small roll bar/bracing in or behind the trim or not. The front clip will be braced in the engine bay, so I might carry it through the cabin and tie it into the trunk for a solid, stiff car that will make mounting 3-point shoulder seat belts easier. If I skip it, I may go 4-point seat belts throughout, but they are less comfortable for highway cruising. We are planning to drive the car a lot too, so that's a major decision point.

The trim pieces will be blended between the T-bird and Fairlane parts. I noticed the rear wheels are visible in the fenders when the interior trim is out. That won't work and I was planning on mini tubs to clear 305-335 wide tires anyway. I'm fine giving up trunk space to accommodate frame bracing and custom mounts. The trunk is huge! The body metal is thin and all of my undercoating on the back side of the panels is shot so the body will need to be dipped to get rid of it all. I'll recoat with something like Rhino Liner and then noise abatement materials like Dynamat.

I'm taking the Fairlane in a little different direction, making it more of a grand sport tourer tow car than true Pro Touring since the car is so big and heavy. It will be braced and setup to tow a trailer so the frame will get more mods than initially intended to beef it up but the suspension will be a little softer and the geometries will be more sporty cruising than Pro Touring. Still going with the 393, but it's now a Clevor and will be upgraded to PS and A/C. I'll still flog it around an autocross course when I can; it just won't be a top level competitive car... It will tow the more purpose built vehicle there. That vehicle is 15 years down the road unless I win the lottery.

[fordsbyjay]

Thanks for the update. I know what it is like to wait. If I have learned anything in the last 20 years it has been patience. I have a similar goals for my 56. I have a t bucket as well so I wanted to build a small 12 trailer to pull behind my 56 so I'll be waiting for updates.

[Jetfixr320]

56 Fairlane should have came with a 9" rear axle. Unless someone stuck a 8" over the years? But the early housings axle tubes were just Butt welded to the center section. Kind of a weak link if your going to make some power. Put a brace across the back of it.

[fordsbyjay]

56 Fairlane should have came with a 9" rear axle. Unless someone stuck a 8" over the years? But the early housings axle tubes were just Butt welded to the center section. Kind of a weak link if your going to make some power. Put a brace across the back of it.


I believe the 57 was the first year of the 9" but I maybe wrong. I was once before. :guilty:

[Jetfixr320]

Ah, you may be right.