I need a little help with a 69 Z/RS suspension upgrade.

[GMJim]

Hi Y'all
As I'm mainly drive train guy I've found myself at a loss to decide which way to go with some not so extreme front suspension upgrades. My level of expertise in this area is admittedly lacking! I've done a lot of searching and reading but still haven't had any luck deciding. My restored 69 Z/28 RS is bone stock with the exception of a healthy 350 and a 5 speed TKO transmission (original engine and transmission are resting comfortably) and I've recently decided that keeping the front suspension stock is going to kill me. The quick ratio steering box, long pitman arm and stock upper and lower control arms are fine for daily driving but at 70 mph on a tight corner the fear of swapping ends is very real! The lack of caster adjust-ability and light steering feel make this car very twitchy at highway speeds. I'm thinking new upper and lower control arms, and some 4 piston calipers would get me where I want to be. I may need to change the steering box and pump as well. I don't track this car but I do take it to the drag strip once in a while. Does anybody have suggestions? Before you ask about budget I'm a great believer in you get what you pay for but I don't think I need the best out there.
Thanks.

[Ron Sutton]

Jim,

There are a lot of guys on here with good experience & advice for what you're looking to do. Unfortunately I'm not one of them, as all of my experience & knowledge is in hardcore racing suspensions.

The good news is:
a. You're in the right place.
b. There are a lot of good options from DSE, Speedtech, Ridetech, Global West, etc.

Hopefully my post will bump your thread & keep it active until other guys chime in.

[68lovebuzz]

Hey Jim,

Thanks for your help through the years on my TKO. I am running Hotchkis 3" drop springs/ leafs with the bilstein shocks that are valved for those springs.I have speed tech uppers and lowers and a DSE anti sway bar up front with their subframe connectors. Also have iroc box. I am so pleased with this setup and I only have a couple hundred miles on it. The suspension is one, if not the best upgrade I've done. It's a good value especially for how you want to use the car and from an originality standpoint. (It's all bolt on stuff that works well and can be taken back off). I've mixed and matched name brands but you would probably be real happy with the Hotchkis TVS system. My car simply hooks and goes, corners on rails, and feels confident at any speed.

[GMJim]

Brian and Ron
Thanks very much for the replies. I think I've settled on either the Speedtech or the DSE uppers and lowers. Just not sure the adjustable bushings for caster on the DSE's is necessary. The Speedtech's have a 4 degree caster built in and are a little cheaper. Not that price at this point is an issue, I just don't want to spend where I don't have to. I do like the DES's however.

[68lovebuzz]

The speed techs are beautiful and come with spring isolators and a polished cross shaft. The DSE arms are a thing of beauty as well. You really can't go wrong.

[Ron Sutton]

Jim, if after you install a set of these quality UCA's ... and you decide you want more caster ... consider LCA's with more caster built in.

The UCA's move the upper ball joint back ... and therefore moved the front axle centerline slightly back. If you want more caster ... which these cars love ... don't just keep moving the UCA back. Get a LCA that moves the lower ball joint forward a little ... to gain caster ... and put the front axle centerline back to where it was.

Several sources make these, but not all. I don't assume, I just call & talk to them.

[77thor]

Start with this...
http://pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm
a very informative read.

[bret]

Jim...I think we share many of your performance criteria...going fast while spending a "reasonable" amount of money. There are MANY ways of doing this, especially with a Gen1 Camaro. I am also build a "restored" 69 Z28 with 29,000 miles on the original drivetrain. Here is my current recipe:

1. taller spindles - optimizes the camber curve by tilting the top of the tire into the turn instead of away from it as the OEM geometry does.
2. Tru Turn system - geometry corrected steering arms and steering linkage to eliminate bumpsteer, AND allow up to a 10" wide front wheel with a 275mm wide tire.
3. fatter front swaybar. Ours is a 3 piece modular and offers more tire clearance. If you're looking for a more oem looking piece, Addco and Hellwig make a nice one.
4. good adjustable shocks - Obviously I am partial to our HQ RideTech Smoothbody units.
5. front disc brakes - Lots of options there. I like the Baer stuff.
6. Tires - taste will dictate the direction here. ANYTHING is an upgrade to the oem bias ply. Not much selection in the traditional 15" diameter, pretty much have to go to a 17" or 18" diameter to get anything decent for cornering. I like the Falken Azenis 615K.
7. quick ratio steering box - 14:1 ratio for casual driving, 12.7:1 ratio if you want a really aggressive box. AGR, Lee, and AGR all make nice units.

This combination will make the car drive like a 2013 Camaro...or better, without molesting the originality [much] and without spending 15k on a suspension.

If you feel it neccessary to go farther, or want to race new Z06 Corvettes, then we can discuss coilovers, tubular control arms, bolt-in 4 link rear suspensions, triple adjustable shocks, etc. As with any performance system on your car, the cost goes up exponentially with the performance level. Only you can decide the sweet spot.

If you will be at Columbus next week I can show you all this stuff, and give you a ride in a really fast 67 Camaro. Or contact me directly at [email protected].

[GMJim]

Jim, if after you install a set of these quality UCA's ... and you decide you want more caster ... consider LCA's with more caster built in.

The UCA's move the upper ball joint back ... and therefore moved the front axle centerline slightly back. If you want more caster ... which these cars love ... don't just keep moving the UCA back. Get a LCA that moves the lower ball joint forward a little ... to gain caster ... and put the front axle centerline back to where it was.

Several sources make these, but not all. I don't assume, I just call & talk to them.

I really only need enough caster for moderate to semi aggressive street driving. 5.0 + drivers and 5.5 + passenger. I'm hoping that's achievable with the Speedtech arms.

[Rod]

Brian and Ron
Thanks very much for the replies. I think I've settled on either the Speedtech or the DSE uppers and lowers. Just not sure the adjustable bushings for caster on the DSE's is necessary. The Speedtech's have a 4 degree caster built in and are a little cheaper. Not that price at this point is an issue, I just don't want to spend where I don't have to. I do like the DES's however.

control arms alone will NOT fix the Camaros problems, but its a start, you have to change the control arms pivot point(guldstrand mod), Chevrolet had it wrong and they knew it for racing they fixed it and after the first 3 years the 70+ Camaros worked great, next tall spindles, or at the very least tall upper ball joints

[Smoker03]

Jim...I think we share many of your performance criteria...going fast while spending a "reasonable" amount of money. There are MANY ways of doing this, especially with a Gen1 Camaro. I am also build a "restored" 69 Z28 with 29,000 miles on the original drivetrain. Here is my current recipe:

1. taller spindles - optimizes the camber curve by tilting the top of the tire into the turn instead of away from it as the OEM geometry does.
2. Tru Turn system - geometry corrected steering arms and steering linkage to eliminate bumpsteer, AND allow up to a 10" wide front wheel with a 275mm wide tire.
3. fatter front swaybar. Ours is a 3 piece modular and offers more tire clearance. If you're looking for a more oem looking piece, Addco and Hellwig make a nice one.
4. good adjustable shocks - Obviously I am partial to our HQ RideTech Smoothbody units.
5. front disc brakes - Lots of options there. I like the Baer stuff.
6. Tires - taste will dictate the direction here. ANYTHING is an upgrade to the oem bias ply. Not much selection in the traditional 15" diameter, pretty much have to go to a 17" or 18" diameter to get anything decent for cornering. I like the Falken Azenis 615K.
7. quick ratio steering box - 14:1 ratio for casual driving, 12.7:1 ratio if you want a really aggressive box. AGR, Lee, and AGR all make nice units.

This combination will make the car drive like a 2013 Camaro...or better, without molesting the originality [much] and without spending 15k on a suspension.

If you feel it neccessary to go farther, or want to race new Z06 Corvettes, then we can discuss coilovers, tubular control arms, bolt-in 4 link rear suspensions, triple adjustable shocks, etc. As with any performance system on your car, the cost goes up exponentially with the performance level. Only you can decide the sweet spot.

If you will be at Columbus next week I can show you all this stuff, and give you a ride in a really fast 67 Camaro. Or contact me directly at [email protected].

This would be a great setup as you can go pretty far with just the stock arms with some poly bushings. Maybe throw in a set of hotchkis springs front and rear to lower the ride hight and add some spring rate.

[Ron Sutton]

I really only need enough caster for moderate to semi aggressive street driving. 5.0 + drivers and 5.5 + passenger. I'm hoping that's achievable with the Speedtech arms.

You should be able to achieve that with just UCA's.

[GMJim]

You should be able to achieve that with just UCA's.

Ron
That's what I was thinking but when I restored this car 10 years ago I put energy suspension urethane bushings in. If I put the UCS'a in I think I would change out the LCA's because they have the better bushings. I would rather do that than try to replace the bushings in the original powder coated lowers.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions.

[Ron Sutton]

Ron
That's what I was thinking but when I restored this car 10 years ago I put energy suspension urethane bushings in. If I put the UCS'a in I think I would change out the LCA's because they have the better bushings. I would rather do that than try to replace the bushings in the original powder coated lowers.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions.

Gotcha. Keep us updated & share photos.