OK, how's my engine?

[derekf]

edit: venting about other issues with my LS1 removed

I've now completely torn my LS1 down.

I need a set of heads. I've already bought a clutch.

Happy that the cylinder walls still show the crosshatching. Happy that the rod bearings all look good. Happy that those cylinders that did not give 5% or less leakage on the leakdown test were leaking past the valves. Happy that none of the issues I've found so far is TOO expensive to fix.

Here's a pic of all five main caps with the bearings (yes, it's a photochop to move them all close together). They're in order from the front of the engine on the left to the back on the right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2005/08/MainBearings-1.jpg

and selected pics of the mains:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2005/08/08230512-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2005/08/08230514-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2005/08/08230515-1.jpg

Looks like the #4 main bearing got some crap in it, and got boogered up (technical terms) but the journal looks OK - sorry, no good pic of number 4. I can see a line on the #3 main journal but I can't catch my fingernail on it.

I knew when I started that I was going to want to replace the bearings. After looking at the boogered one, I'm happy that I took a look.

I do, however, have questions.

1. The #1 and #2 main bearings have what almost looks like water spots on them - what is that, and is it a problem that needs to be taken care of before I put new bearings in it?

2. The line on the #3 main journal - if I can't catch my fingernail on it, should I still have the crank turned?

[parsonsj]

Derek,
I'd sure turn that crank. 10/10 will make you feel a whole lot better. #4 journal was right on the edge of spinning the bearing. Another alternative: a used low mileage crank. Lots of guys are stroking theirs ... and so they have a perfectly fine unmolested crank lying around. You might even give MTI or Texas Speed and Performance a call and see if they have a nice takeout crank for a low price.

Also have a close look at your oil pump ... and consider swapping it out for a later model year LS6 pump. Some of the LS1 tuners sell "ported" or "blueprinted" pumps. I'd get one.

Sorry about your luck on the engine; I know exactly how you feel. That's the same kind of stuff I found in mine when I tore it down. Mine supposedly only had 5k miles. Yeah, right. One quarter mile at a time, I think.

jp

[derekf]

Thanks, JP. I appreciate it.

[paul67]

How long if any had the engine been stood?
paul67

[derekf]

No idea. At least a month, I believe.

[paul67]

The reason why I asked is I was told by an engine builder that if you leave an engine for a lenght of time without running it the weight of the crank squeezes the oil from under the crank so when you start up it runs dry till presure comes up, what you should do is on early blocks is remove dizzy and run pump with a drill till pressures up then start , also if your doing a filter change fill the filter up with oil as it takes time to fill using the engine and the bearing can run dry due to air from the filter going round the system . If you cannot run the engine pump on a LS1 engine I would fill the engine with oil above the crank line then drain when coming to fire for the first time. Also store crank on its end so it does on bow. The builder that told me this does some machine engine work for indy car companys.
paul67.