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    Results 21 to 28 of 28
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      724
      Country Flag: United States
      Those look really nice in brown, and since there are other black things in the car the black plastic bits add needed contrast.
      I used some black ones in my convertible. There weren't any brackets to speak of, just the flat bottom rails, so you need to come up with mounts on your own since the floor of the car is anything but flat.
      http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...l#post18357594

      If you scroll down on page 20 and 21 of that thread there are pics of the bottoms, comparison to stock seats and the test fitting. Linking to that thread is just easier than repost pics.

      People mentioned searing and mercedes seats, but corsair aren't exactly plug n play and the mercs often have seat controls integrated into door panels. The BMW seats are all-in-one deals. http://www.corvairkid.com/sebring.htm
      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      I would just use Grade 8 bolts in the floor mounts, with some steel plate made into a larger washer to ensure the bolt doesn't pull through the rears in particular. I know the 3/8" hardware is plenty adequate as I've done numerous tests over the years for this exact thing. If anyone is bored, look up FMVSS 207/210 anchorage tests, which is exactly the test for a seat with an integrated shoulder and lap belt.
      Josh Campbell- Pushing the limits of my HOA since 2011
      71 Firebird- 455, Ridetech front suspension. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...04#post1124504
      67 Camaro RS/SS clone, Speedtech front suspension, coilovers, soon to get LT1/T56.
      82 Z28- cheapie beater, soon to get a 406.
      66 Mustang coupe- 393, T-5, sold. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Coupe-GT393-C

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Albuquerque
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Chuck,
      I looked at your pics at ls1tech, did you shorten the rail on the seats? My Bimmer outside seat rails are longer than the inside.

      If you did, does this not reduce the strength of the seat?

      Scott

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Location
      East coast.
      Posts
      169
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Mr Nick View Post
      Make sure you mount them securely to the floor. You are now asking the seat mounts/bolts to support the weight of the seat AND you in the event of a crash.
      i was going to say the same thing. i know dodge trucks had seats like that.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      724
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by sp68cvert View Post
      Chuck,
      I looked at your pics at ls1tech, did you shorten the rail on the seats? My Bimmer outside seat rails are longer than the inside.

      If you did, does this not reduce the strength of the seat?

      Scott
      Mine are as well, I didn't cut anything. The rails have mounting holes in them and I lined them up with the thicker parts of the floor (if you look under the car you'll see what I mean, the cross-bracing or whatever). I also had some plate steel from another project that I put under the floor at every bolt, with a few progressively larger washers as well. Got grade 8 stuff from fastenall. With the bolts I used I had to use the holes nearest the ends of the rails to ensure that the seat could still travel it's full range (and these seats have tons of travel).
      The only thing I don't like is that the floor of the car slopes in from the door sill rather steeply meaning that unless you can weld you're probably going to mount them slightly more toward the inside than the originals were. I'm about a 1/2 inch over toward the midline when I sit in the driver's seat. Eventually I'll find a pro who can do this so it looks 100% right, but for now I'm satisfied that it's 100% safer than the original seats. That was the whole point of putting these in after all.
      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Posts
      9
      Chuck

      I installed bimmer seats in my 69 Pontiac Custom S Vert (A-Body). The driver's seat is 1 inch over midline because the rocker interferes with the outside rail. I can live with it, but it is not perfect.
      Did you ever get yours on center? If so, how?

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      HILLBILLY HOLLYWOOD, TENNESSEE!!!
      Posts
      2,041
      Remember, Bob Johnson always said the top of the seat back should not be over the height of the door!
      Mike

      Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

      www.musclecardeals.com

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      724
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
      Remember, Bob Johnson always said the top of the seat back should not be over the height of the door!
      The founder of BET?
      Quote Originally Posted by 69 Custom S Vert View Post
      Chuck



      I installed bimmer seats in my 69 Pontiac Custom S Vert (A-Body). The driver's seat is 1 inch over midline because the rocker interferes with the outside rail. I can live with it, but it is not perfect.
      Did you ever get yours on center? If so, how?
      No, I had some other stuff come up so I'm just going to leave it be for the foreseeable future. Unless I can find a deal on a T56 in the next few months the car is probably going back into the garage for two-three years anyway. If that happens I'll just sell the motor and pick up the project in 2017 sometime. Like you, I can live with it. Messing with the rockers can wait until I can afford a massive restoration.
      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html


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