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  1. #101
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    19
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    Nice build!



  2. #102
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    The Wilwood pedals look right at home


    I had a leaking 2005 GTO radiator laying around and it happened to fit the opening perfectly. I found a full assembly with radiator, fans, and condenser and built mounts for it.




    Here's the engine compartment fuse panels. I want to build closeout panels for the inside of the fenders so I'll build a more permanent mount when I get to that project.




    I welded a couple of shelving brackets together to make a mount for the interior fuse panel.



    Wiring for the remote starter solenoid and fuel sending unit
    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  3. #103
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    Used an PCM mount out of an Astro van.


    As it turns out, a Silverado cold air intake works perfectly in a Chevelle.


    Testing out the headlights.


    I used Aeroquip braided fuel lines. I would have liked to run hard line but there was no way to get it installed with the body on the frame.





    I was finally able to get the engine started and drive out of the garage just before Thanksgiving


    The center section is from Quick Performance. It has a Yukon case, tru track, and 3.89 gears. I'll need to break it in before I can get the engine dyno tuned.


    Here's the formula for modern steering in a Chevelle: Grand Cherokee steering box, 97 Astro van steering shaft, and a 4th gen Camaro steering column.
    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  4. #104
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    19
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    Nice work! What car did you get your windshield motor from?

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    The windshield motor and parking mechanism are from a 98-02 f-body. I'm not sure if the 93-97 cars would have the same setup.
    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  6. #106
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
    Country Flag: United States

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    I bought a new toy during my winter break. It's a 2004 Silverado 2500 with a Duramax diesel engine. It's a very rare truck because it has the manual 6 speed transmission. The previous owner upgraded the intake and exhaust along with adding EFI live tunes. It's got somewhere around 500 horsepower at the highest power setting.



    As far as the Chevelle goes, I've built a set of tailpipes and done some work on the interior. I have had trouble getting the engine tuned but hopefully it'll be sorted out soon.



    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  7. #107
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    I reused the subs, 6x9 speakers, and amplifiers I had in the car before.





    The other panels are made of 1/4" mdf







    I also decided to switch back to a stock sweep style dashboard. I liked the way the new dash I designed was turning out but I don't really have the skills I need to finish it right at the moment. I figured I would go back to a stock dash for now so that I can get the Chevelle back on the road.





    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  8. #108
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Detroit
    Posts
    2,085
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    Very nice progress on the car. And I must say I have never seen a 6spd Duramax.
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
    Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

    Project Motor City Madness

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    The last piece I need for the suspension is the front sway bar. I'm looking at the tubular Hellwig bar: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/he...model/chevelle Is there any reason this wouldn't work well with my setup?
    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  10. #110
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    128
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    One nice thing about a tubular sway bar - it's easily 2 lbs lighter than a 1" stock solid bar and even lighter than a larger solid bar. I have the smaller 55706 (1-1/4" vs. 1-5/16") going on my Olds 442 convertible build. It's a very nice piece!
    Rodney
    Rodney Meyers
    72 Olds 442 Rest-mod clone

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    N. Shore, Ma
    Posts
    268
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    Hey David, The Chevelle is making good progress.
    Have you looked at the RideTech MuscleBar? I was checking them out before the chassis upgrade.
    http://www.ridetech.com/store/1968-1...bar-front.html
    Eric
    Building 1969 GTO - Roadster Shop chassis, LQ9 w LS3 heads and rebuild parts from TSP, Bowler prepped Magnum T56 6 spd, 3 Link Strange 9" w Speedway Floater Hubs, Wilwood 14" F - 13" R brakes, 275.18 - 345.19
    http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/94970-69-GTO-Build

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    Eric, I really like the look of the Ridetech bar but I just cant justify spending over double the amount of the Hellwig bar. I like the idea of building my own splined bar using Speedway Engineering parts but I don't really know where to begin with bar rates and lever arm lengths.
    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  13. #113
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    I've been working on installing air conditioning in the Chevelle (Power Tour was HOT) and I've run into a snag with the condenser. The 05 GTO radiator is set back because I originally planned on using the GTO condenser as well. However, I ended up ordering the Vintage Air surefit kit based on the price of new GTO parts. As you can see in the pictures there is a 4 inch gap between the condenser and radiator because of the setback. Based on a conversation with a salesman at Vintage Air, the gap shouldn't be a problem but I can't help but think the fans won't be very effective at pulling air through the condenser. Any thoughts?


    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  14. #114
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    523
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    I don't think that gap is a good idea, there's a lot of loss there. No "OE" car has anywhere near that much.
    That being said, I think the solution is as simple as a shroud that bridges the gap. Something as simple as a piece of sheet metal.
    The main goal is to bring 100% of the air through the condenser, then the radiator, into the fans. You don't want "stray" air coming around the condenser.
    Granted, it probably won't "hurt", you'll just lose airflow.
    Looks to me like everything behind the "V" of the grill, up, and over everything would not only help direct air, but look cool too.
    Don't forget about the bottom and sides. Same thing.

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    971
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    Good progress! and congrats on the new truck, I haven't seen one with the manual trans yet either.

    Account Manager Sales/Tech
    Phone: 812.481.4734

    Ridetech Suspsension



    Project Fox

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
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    146
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    I ended up ordering the Hellwig bar. It fit well but the mounts had torn out of the frame (seems to be a common problem). I ended up welding grade 8 nuts onto a piece of 1/4" plate, drilling out the old mount holes to fit the nuts, then welding the plate to the frame.



    In other news, there's a reason you're supposed to use locktite on screw in wheel studs. I had torqued them down and figured that would be enough. As I was running the lugnuts on, a stud on each of the rear axles backed out against the backing plates. I didn't realize what happened so when I went to back out of the garage, they hung on the backing plates and bent. Luckily nothing else was damaged but I still feel like an idiot.




    As far as the AC goes, I ended up modifying the condenser brackets to move it closer to the radiator. By moving the lower mount to the back flange of the radiator support, the condenser and radiator are now at the ideal spacing for efficient air flow. BTW, the second pic shows how I mounted 07 Silverado horns to the core support. The stockers were a little sad sounding and the new ones were free and much louder.

    I didn't want to deal with notching the crossmember so I decided to use a high mount compressor bracket. The compressor would have fit with the truck accessory spacing and I didn't think about the reduced clearance with the f-body parts.








    I also notched the rear valance panel to fit the tailpipes. I'm trying to decide between making a miter cut on the tailpipes, leaving them like they are, or getting some 3.5" tips
    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  17. #117
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta,Ga.
    Posts
    147

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    Quote Originally Posted by David LaBuda View Post
    I started working on the tubular bracing tonight. The bars hang about an inch and a half below the frame rails so they should protect the exhaust from impacts. Once I get that bracing done I'll start working on the rear coilover crossmember.








    I am loving the build! Can you explain the measurements and materials you used. I have the same frame (1970 Cutlass/442) and want to knock this out when I remove the body from the frame.
    I am SUCH a rookie to Pro-Touring

  18. #118
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Prescott, AZ
    Posts
    200
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    We are digging that sound system setup in the rear!

  19. #119
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    The frame rails were boxed with 10 or 11 gauge steel. It matched the thickness of the existing rails. The tubular bracing was built out of schedule 40 handrail pipe. The local welding shop had a bunch left over from another project so I got a good deal on it. If I were to do it again I'm not sure if I would go through the trouble of the bracing. I'm sure it added stiffness but I'm not sure if it made enough difference to justify the extra weight vs just boxing the frame rails. I would definitely build the bracing with the body on the frame though. I didn't realize how much closer it could have been to the floor pan and I lost some ground clearance as a result.
    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


  20. #120
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ft Worth, TX
    Posts
    146
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    My latest project is trying out some 5th gen Camaro mirrors on the Chevelle. They've got crisp body lines that match with the Chevelle's sharp belt line. The mid 90s Buick mirrors that people like to use just seem a little out of place on a 70. Repop mirrors are only $35 a piece so I figured it was worth experimenting. I'm happy with how the driver's side turned out so I'll order the passenger side and make it work. The glass is quite wider than on the stock mirror which definitely improves the field of view. What do y'all think?






    1970 Chevelle: 6.0 LQ4, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, LS1 Camaro brakes

    2004 Silverado 2500HD LLY/ZF6


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