Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
    Results 21 to 38 of 38
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Sydney, Australia
      Posts
      1,798
      Country Flag: Australia
      If you're thinking about reducing the floor to subframe clearance with shorter solid body mounts, just check the clearance you have for the gearbox crossmember....I recall I couldn't get the crossmember into my 67 Firebird when I was mocking things up because the rubber mounts were old and compressed...I had to loosen the mount bolt off.....you might need to provide some floor clearance where the crossmember sits.

      Regards,
      Leigh

      Sydney, Australia
      1971 Firebird 455

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Project/page27


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62
      Quote Originally Posted by LeighP View Post
      If you're thinking about reducing the floor to subframe clearance with shorter solid body mounts, just check the clearance you have for the gearbox crossmember....I recall I couldn't get the crossmember into my 67 Firebird when I was mocking things up because the rubber mounts were old and compressed...I had to loosen the mount bolt off.....you might need to provide some floor clearance where the crossmember sits.
      My existing body mounts are completly crushed! The transmission tunnel clearance has been my biggest concern when choosing the 1/2 height body mounts but I was hoping to keep as much ground clearance as possible and still nail the stance with 18" wheels. Thanks for the input, I need all the advice I can get.

      And Rich, I will have to look into making time to make it to the goodguys event. That sounds like a good time anyhow.

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62

      1968 Camaro project

      Welder is comming over today to help fix some things I found under the carpet where is looks like someone used a 1/2" punch to make a hole to run a wire!?! About to start grinding down the firewall. After this I will drop the front clip and clean it up and hopefully have a new front suspension on the way! Then send the car to paint.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62
      interior and firewall are sanded down! found some body damage to the lower right cowl. shouldnt be a hard fix. had the body and paint guy over to give it a once over. no real rust and no panels that need to be replaced short of the lower right cowl. should be selling the motorcycle next week to fund the suspension and brakes! Getting excited about ordering parts in finally. fighting the temptation to drain the savings account and have everything done at the local hotrod shop, but i think that might be a bad idea.

      so here's a question for anyone who knows...

      spindles, do i need to replace them or can i use the factory drum brake units? I am leaning really hard no towards the BMR setup front and rear but I know their kit does not include shocks or front steering components. anyone using the DSE front kit with the BMR torque arm setup?

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      49,371
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68TTT View Post
      so here's a question for anyone who knows...

      spindles, do i need to replace them or can i use the factory drum brake units? I am leaning really hard no towards the BMR setup front and rear but I know their kit does not include shocks or front steering components. anyone using the DSE front kit with the BMR torque arm setup?

      I highly recommend calling Tobin @ Kore 3 brakes. He will be able to set you up with a great package for the drum brake spindles that should meet your needs and budget.



      As for front steering parts, I highly recommend calling the guys at Proforged for those:



      http://proforged.ecomm-search.com/na...--redirected-1


      BTW: Are you still thinking of going with a wide wheel up front?

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62

      1968 Camaro project

      Thanks for the info Rich. As for the wide front tires, I would love to have a setup that I could run 275's all the way around on wheels that have the same back spacing so I can rotate the tires and such. I also like the way a 275 looks on the front of an older car. But I am concerned about turning radius and rubbing on the front without notching the frame or swapping it out. This car will see almost daily street duty with a few track days any chance I get.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      49,371
      Country Flag: United States
      To run 275's up front on a stock subframe you will need to run the ridetech Tru Turn which comes with its own spindle. You should still be able to get a killer brake package from Kore3 for the ridetech spindle.

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62
      Quote Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
      To run 275's up front on a stock subframe you will need to run the ridetech Tru Turn which comes with its own spindle. You should still be able to get a killer brake package from Kore3 for the ridetech spindle.
      That looks like a killer system. I now just need to workout the details on how to run the same backspacing on the rear. Any ideas?

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62

      1968 Camaro project

      I don't even know why I bother to make plans... I'm just going to change them in the end! IE= was going to run a nice 5 speed but now it's looking more like a 6 speed will be the choice which then led me to the thought, "if I'm going to have a modern trans, I guess I will need a modern engine." all this thinking will eventually break my bank account.

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62

      1968 Camaro project

      After a few phone calls with Frank at Prodigy Customs I have it narrowed down to a full ridetech setup with the truturn system. I will run a 2" wider rear axle to match the front back spacing so I can run the same wheels and tires all the way around. I will be able to rotate the tires and carry a full size spare. http://www.forgeline.com/products/performance-series-step-lip/so3-17-18.html

      Prodigy 418ci 600hp with FI and a t56 will be a lot of fun!

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62

      1968 Camaro project

      Sold the Honda motorcycle today. Planning on ordering a ton of parts next week. Suspension will be up first!

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62
      Cut out some bad stuff today. Pleased with the results given this was the first time I have ever performed surgery on a car. Plans have changed again, looks like mini-tubs are and 18x12" rear wheels will be in the works. My welder friend wishes I didn't want to do it, but a case of miller lite will make him feel better about it.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Sydney, Australia
      Posts
      1,798
      Country Flag: Australia
      When you said you found some rust in the cowl, I thought you were just going to patch a couple of spots....lol.
      Regards,
      Leigh

      Sydney, Australia
      1971 Firebird 455

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Project/page27

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62
      Quote Originally Posted by LeighP View Post
      When you said you found some rust in the cowl, I thought you were just going to patch a couple of spots....lol.
      Lol! Truth is I really just want to have a new way at looking at the interior...

      That area was crushed in like it had been wrecked. The car is very straight and has almost no rust and no one would have ever know that the cowl was crushed in but me. But it would have driven me nuts knowing that it was hiding under a fender. Stupid OCD!

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Melbourne, Fla
      Posts
      216
      Country Flag: United States
      68TTT,

      ...been there...done that!! But once you are thru the looking glass, it is all worth it 'cause you know your car is rock solid!!


    16. #36
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62
      Quote Originally Posted by Tango68SS View Post
      68TTT,

      ...been there...done that!! But once you are thru the looking glass, it is all worth it 'cause you know your car is rock solid!!

      Thanks for the reassurance. I know it's worth it. New air hammer with a spot weld cutter will make the tubs easier to cut out.

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      49,371
      Country Flag: United States
      I had a 68 a few years ago that had a smashed tulip panel too...... looks great and I think you will be happy with the new direction of wider wheels out back.

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      62
      Quote Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
      I had a 68 a few years ago that had a smashed tulip panel too...... looks great and I think you will be happy with the new direction of wider wheels out back.
      I think you are right. I just really didn't want to cut it up that much, but now that I've started with the cutting I might as well do everything else that needs it. And some more rubber on the road is really what I'm after.

    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com