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    Thread: Monroe Handler

    1. #81
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for all the comments guys.


      Updates.... well. Over Christmas I got it mostly stripped and put back on the rotisserie so I can work on the headers and better position the car so I can finishing the remaining welding as "flat" as possible.

      With the exception of one or two days where I did get started on the headers, this is how it has sat for over two months, mostly because it has been too cold.








      Today the weather is taking a serious turn to spring. I have to get a fence up this spring, but other than that, it's almost all car this season. I hope to have something I can drive by late fall for testing (obviously won't be close to done though).


      Quote Originally Posted by GrabberGT View Post
      Why not stretch the wheel base by moving the front wheels crossmember and all forward. Asthetically thats the only part of the MII I dont like and it would give you a better weight distribution.
      I agree on all of your points, but I didn't want to change the lines of the Handler body, I like that as is but it lead to a lot of other compromises.

      I'd like to build another Mustang II, with the basic length of the car unchanged but the front wheels moved forward 4 to 6 inches, rear wheels back 2 to 4 inches, tucked bumpers, lowered a lot, BIG flares, pushrod suspension, set back Coyote engine, etc.

      In other words, on the Monroe Handler, the body dictated the chassis. On the next car (if I have the patience), I'd like the chassis to dictate the body.


    2. #82
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      South Lyon, MI
      Posts
      1,217
      Country Flag: United States
      I am not a big Ford fan, but I like this build.

      I always thought the Mustang II's were very overlooked and had potential.

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      The radiator, fan and shroud showed up. The radiator has the inlet and outlet moved over 1" to the driver side to match the engine being moved.




      The package ended up being thicker than planned so I figured I had better get it mocked up before I finished welded the engine frame mounts in. Some modifications were needed. I ended up completely removing the bottom of the radiator support and the upper mounting holes. I got some tubing and will build a new lower support.





      With some careful trimming and tweaking, I was able to save the upper supper and bottom set of holes.




      I ended up with enough clearance but will probably switch the water pump pulley bolts and the fan motor cover bolts to button head allen bolts just to make sure.






      Headers - Still my Achilles heal. I'm not happy with my workmanship so I decided to hire these done from http://www.gpheaders.com/ (was http://www.stainlessheaders.com, the business split and the fabrication portion is now handled by GP Headers). You basically build a mock of the headers from the pieces they send you and PVC plumbing parts. You send them the mockup and they duplicate it in mild or stainless steel. I had planned on devoting the weekend to these but their stubbed mockup flanges are too long to fit, so I've got something in mind to take care of that. Had to order a little bit of stuff, more on these later.




      Engine - Got the long block back from the machinist this weekend. Got it taped off, painted up and bagged until I need it.





      Got the valve covers I am going to use with the coil brackets and misc hardware needed to put it all together:

      The coil brackets wouldn't quite fit on the covers so I had to modify them slightly, relocating one mounting hole:







      Chassis - Fitted and welded up the brackets to tie back the forward bars on the rollbar to the front subframe. I *think* have all of the roll bar welding done. Finshed the upper coil over mounts.









      Have number of parts to be powder coated, for example:



      Much more to come!

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice update. Tell us more about that engine. Those intake ports are erin huge!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    5. #85
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      The block is a 302 roller block bored 30, stock stroke, genuine 289 hi-po rods, Wiseco Boss 302 pistons. custom hyd roller comp cam.

      The heads are 351c 4v closed chamber heads, SS 2.19 intake & 1.71 exhaust valves, Comp beehive springs, ports are stock 351c 4v but they have been milled to get just under ~10:1

      This is kind of an experiment to see how what a carefully selected hyd roller and EFI will do to help the lack of low end torque on these engines. The ports don't have much velocity on the low end due to their size but the EFI should largely take care of the fuel atomization issues so I guess...

      we'll see. I expect it will get aluminum heads & more displacement at some point down the road.

    6. #86
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      I was told I need to post more stuff. Here is an update:


      A couple dash shots:









      The body is still on the rotisserie. I put the seats back in and am waiting for my free time and warmer weather to coincide so I can fit the harness and harness bar.


      Otherwise, when the weather is warm enough but my time is short, I've been working on finishing some welding up, little pieces here and there, steering rack mounts, frame mounts, all in and welded.











      Got a bunch of stuff back from the powder coaters so I started fitting the intake together, this is where most of my time and money has been spent the last couple months. I can work on it in the basement, 20 minutes here, and hour there, so that is a plus. Lines have to be bent (and re-bent), little brackets made, (and re-made), lots of putting together and taking back apart. This part has been a lot of fun though.














      I'm working on the bellcrank pivot for the throttle body linkage now, ordered the material and bearings for that today. After I get that done, I get to start on finding a home for these, make mounting brackets and plumb them in.





      The block on the left is IAC block and will let the computer adjust the idle as needed (when the electric fan kicks on for example). The small black manifold on the right is where the MAP sensor will get it's vacuum signal from the two throttle bodies and where I'll plumb in the sensor for the dash mounted vacuum gauge.


      I needed to check a few clearances and get a few measurements, so I set the valve covers and intake on the mock up block and heads.


      Everything looks OK for the cam position sensor to fuel pressure regulator clearance.







      This is where my bellcrank pivot is going to be mounted under the fuel rail, I'm likely going to have to shorten this link a little bit.













      A couple money shots for those that have gotten this far:















      That's it for now, lots more to come!

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Shawn,

      Great progress.

      I don't want to scare you, but I have found that some of the billet 4 barrel throttle bodies pass a lot of air at idle. With two of them on the engine you may not be able to close them enough for the IAC to control idle. On my 5.3L LS it was a real challenge to get the idle down. The twin 87mm TBs leak enough air that my IAC values at idle are 0%, but it works mostly because with my cam, it likes to idle at around 1000rpm anyway.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #88
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the warning Andrew, they don't look too bad, not really any gap to speak of that I can see.

      I'll just have to try it and if it doesn't work, try something else. I'm getting very familiar with that concept. ;)

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by feeble View Post
      Thanks for the warning Andrew, they don't look too bad, not really any gap to speak of that I can see.

      I'll just have to try it and if it doesn't work, try something else. I'm getting very familiar with that concept. ;)
      Will you have dual IACs since the intake doesn't have a common plenum?

      Never mind....I see you made an IAC manifold. Should be interesting to see how all that works!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      1,414
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks great. All of the detail in the CAD work makes me jealous, very good job!


      Ridetech Suspsension
      Tech Specialist
      Phone: 812.481.4734

      Project Fox
      1979 Trans Am

    11. #91
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Josh. I need to buy a set of RT front coil overs yet to match the rear, I'll be in touch with someone about that soon. No Monroe shocks on this Monroe Handler!


      I'm using a set of ridetech Mustang II front lower control arms and there is no apparent attachment for the front roll bar. I can make something up if I need to but does ridetech have any suggestions for roll bar attachment?

      Thx!

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Santee, CA (San Diego County)
      Posts
      297
      I love the gauge cluster! It's nearly identical to what I imagine doing. Is the Speedhut tach and speedo the 4" size? Proportions and design look great.
      Alcino Manuel Azevedo
      76 Mustang II Cobra II
      Featured in April 2006 Popular Hot Rodding

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes Alcino, those are the 4" sizes. I can send a CAD file for the dash insert if you decide to go that route.

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Location
      Kennewick, WA
      Posts
      259
      Country Flag: United States
      I saw an ad on Craigs List and this thread was the first thought I had. The guy has glass fenders and hood along with a steel hood with the Cobra 2 scoop. Not sure if you would even be interested but here it is....

      http://kpr.craigslist.org/pts/5499496412.html


    15. #95
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the link. The Monroe Handler's fenders are fiberglass already and I am picking up a new fiberglass hood on Friday. I'll forward this on to someone who might want the fenders though... Thx again.



      I gave up on the headers, running out of time and patience. Car will be going to a shop in a 3 weeks or so to have them fabricated.

    16. #96
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Location
      Kennewick, WA
      Posts
      259
      Country Flag: United States
      Any time, it's not often you see parts for those cars up for sale so I like to pass along the info.


    17. #97
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Lethbridge, AB
      Posts
      177
      Country Flag: Canada
      curious how much did those wheels end up costing ya? (since they don't list prices on their website) I ended up going with RPF1's as the price was right for a performance wheel, but your limited to their offsets, I love the look of deep dish wheels
      Build Thread!!!https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?88692-1971-Speedipus-Rex&p=925864&posted=1#post925864

    18. #98
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      It's been a couple of years but I bought the rear wheels direct from Centerline for $409 each + shipping. They were polished when I got them. I bought the fronts from someone on this forum. I do really like the deep dish, especially in the rear.

      Still waiting for the headers but the car is in his shop and I'm up next. Switched to CHI 4V heads.


    19. #99
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Some pics of the header build by Tony Reiners of Dakota Mustang in Worthing SD. When I stopped in Sunday, he had the driver side to weld and the exhaust yet to build. He thought he might get these wrapped up this week. He's doing a great job and I'm going to have to up my game on the rest of the car to match his quality.


      Header and exhaust specs:

      Individual 1/2" thick SS flanges, 1-3/4" to 1 7/8" step primaries, slip-on 3" merge collectors with V-band clamps. 3" SS exhaust with x-pipe, Borla Pro XS mufflers with turn downs. All TIG welded, argon back purged.


      Driver side






      Passenger side






      Installed






      The rest of the pics can be seen here: http://www.mustangiitech.org/gallery...ust/?g2_page=1

    20. #100
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice progress!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

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