Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast
    Results 21 to 40 of 105

    Thread: Monroe Handler

    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by cobragt View Post
      I would say stick with the power steering, I really hated driving my brothers 66 fastback around the autocross course with manual steering. I could never get any faster, just felt like I was fighting the car all the time. And his wheels are 16x8
      Do you know what his scrub radius is by any chance?



    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      ohio
      Posts
      1,135
      Country Flag: United States
      awesome project.....
      keep the wheels a spinning and the Beavers a grinning(burt reynolds-smokey and the bandit)

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks! Hopefully it doesn't disappoint.

      Getting close to wrapping up the front suspension design. I think I have my wheel / brake issues settled and all the parts related to that are here or on the way. The compromise I had to make was to give some on the scrub radius so I wasn't spending $1000 a wheel to get the offset and brake clearance where I wanted it. So the scrub will be about 1-5/16" with 17 x 9 Cobra R wheels with a 45mm offset. To get the caliper clearance (2000 Cobra R Brembos) I needed with 45mm offset wheels, I'm using a 1.25" offset Wilwood hat and a 13" Coleman Racing rotor.

      I've got the front suspension geometry plotted and here are the camber results. I'd like opinions. Too much? Not enough? I'm thinking I want to shorten the upper arm a little bit to pick up a little more gain on the curve.



      Caster is at 4 degrees
      Anti-dive at 3 degrees
      Roll center height is about 2-3/4" - 3-1/16" depending on how much tire squash I have.


      And here are some screen shots of the design.








      I need to check some things on the steering yet (https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...and-bump-steer), finish the design for the suspension pickup points and upper coil over mount and then I think... finally..... I'll be comfortable enough with the design that I can start building something.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      23
      Man those designs are just art!

      The lower looks a bit like a MII lower with an outrigger to replace the MII strut rod. When you make yours, you may be asked to make some more of them!

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks, I'm sure they will be fun and challenging to build but almost none of this will bolt into a stock Mustang II subframe. I will share all of the drawings and specs though if you want to build your own.

      Finished up the design of the upper control arm mounts and shock mount this weekend.



      Still have a little to finish on the rear lower control arm mount and front crossmember.

      In the real world, I had the snout on the front hubs turned down so that it fits into the center bore on the wheels. Test fit the hub, rotor, wheel and caliper and it looks like everything is just going to clear with the rotor and hat combination I'm using.





      I should have the spindles back this week from the machinist so I can mount the hubs on the spindles and finish the design of the caliper bracket. Have to take the measurements for this in the real world as I don't have a CAD model for the Brembo caliper

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Love the design work, I'm envious of your CAD skills!

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, BC
      Posts
      125
      Country Flag: Canada
      Great SolidWorks usage.. I'm super jealous of all the dedication you've put into the modeling, I've been wanting to do that for my build for a couple years but just can't find the extra time on top of actually fabbing all the parts and using ProE for the majority of my workday. Keep up the fantastic work, definitely keeping an eye on this one...
      1972 Nova, forged LQ4 with twin 6466's, T56 Magnum, OEM subframe w/ Speedtech front, Chassisworks gLink rear, Ridetech coils & Wilwoods, with a rear floater in the works --> http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...1972-nova.html

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Easton, PA
      Posts
      989
      Country Flag: United States
      wow, a monroe handler? now you need a denimachine as your tow vehicle!
      Keith C.

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the comments guys.

      A denimachine? Never heard of it.



      Pure 70s awesome though!

      I do like Coke and Levi's.... hmmm.....

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      A few more parts machined and fitted together.

      The Wilwood hat section and 13" x 1-1/8" Coleman Racing rotor.



      Compared to a stock 1-piece Cobra rotor, the 2-piece rotor has about a 1" deeper hat section and lets the Brembo calipers (2000 Cobra R or Focus RS) clear the 45mm offset 17 x 9.5 Cobra R wheels that are designed for a 2005+ Mustang. The higher offset wheel (compared to a regular '95 Cobra R) improves the scrub radius which makes for easier steering with a manual rack. The stud holes weren't quite large enough and had to be oversized to 9/16"

      As I mentioned before, the snout on the hub had to be turned to fit inside the center bore on the wheel. Conversely, the snout was too small for the center hole on the rotor hat so I had some aluminum centering rings made up to help keep everything concentric. The hubs are 65 - 66 Mustang V8 drum brake hubs.





      And here it is put together with the wheel, Wilwood Pro-Spindle and caliper:





      Now that I finally was able to put this all together, I can get the caliper bracket designed:



      All of this is a whole lot of silver, I'll probably be making some changes to the colors.



      Some of the 3/16" thick laser cut parts for the rear of the frame and suspension brackets for the rear end showed up last weekend. More steel is on the way. Here is a sample of a few:




      You can see some of the parts in this screenshot:




      Had a heck of a coupon for a 20-ton Harbor Freight press so I picked that up this weekend. I'm going to try to get this modeled up in 3D by next weekend so I can design a tube bender attachment. My garage space is limited so the more multi-functional the equipment is, the better.



      On the frame design itself, I widened out the front frame rails 3" compared to a stock Mustang II. I have the room to do so and it allows for more header clearance or wider engines.

      Still messing with the upper control arm mounts and haven't really come up with anything else that lets me use the Del-sphere joints and have an adjustable arm. I'm not really liking it too much at this point, but this will probably be it (famous last words!):





      I'll continue to plug away at it. "Do a little... often" I've been told.




      Thanks for reading!

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice project!! I've always wanted to do something similar with a II.
      I have SolidWorks & Autocad at home and had been using Solid Edge and Autocad at work but currently transitioning over to NX8.
      I'm following this one.
      Roger

      69 Mustang coupe, under construction
      2011 Mustang - DD
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ang-SuperCoupe

      Freedom Of Speed!




    12. #32
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Not much of an update to report. I'm overhauling the front suspension design again (4 or 5th time, I've lost count) Just haven't come up with anything I am 100% happy with yet, there are a lot of considerations to balance. I like the geometry I have but the packaging of it and turning it into something I can build is another matter.

      Widened the front frame rails out from the stock II 23-3/4" to 28-1/2" inside. Still have about 3/4" of tire clearance at full wheel lock. Makes for lots of room for the engine and headers.

      Just to see if it they fit, I did put the front Cobra R calipers / Wilwood hat / Coleman rotor together with the 17 x 8 Centerline Lazer wheels (http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_d...d=35&sw_id=462) I have here. The calipers just clear the spokes by just under 1/8" without a spacer. Just an FYI for someone that might be looking for wheels to use with those calipers.




    13. #33
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Posts
      5
      Quote Originally Posted by feeble View Post

      Compared to a stock 1-piece Cobra rotor, the 2-piece rotor has about a 1" deeper hat section and lets the Brembo calipers (2000 Cobra R or Focus RS) clear the 45mm offset 17 x 9.5 Cobra R wheels that are designed for a 2005+ Mustang. The higher offset wheel (compared to a regular '95 Cobra R) improves the scrub radius which makes for easier steering with a manual rack. The stud holes weren't quite large enough and had to be oversized to 9/16"
      Hi, sorry if I may be wrong, but wouldn't a higher offset wheel make for more negative scrub? Thereby increasing steering effort? I'm making my wheel decisions right now for my manual rack'd 67 mustang, so if I'm wrong I really need to figure it out!

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      The higher positive offset moves the centerline of the wheel in towards the centerline of the car. Relative to where I started, the 45mm offset wheel decreases the positive scrub radius which reduces steering effort and tramlining. I'm sitting at about 1-5/16" positive scrub right now. I'd like to reduce it further but don't really want to pay for custom, higher offset wheels.

      The further you are from zero scrub (positive or negative), the higher your steering effort will be.

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      great project! Haven't read the entire thread yet, but I have to leave a note so I won't miss it next time! ;)

      I saw you had problems with mounting the upper A-arm to the chassis. What about the SPC arms?

      Sorry if you already thought of them - I haven't read the entire thread yet...

      EDIT: I was a little unclear there... I ment the inner bushings of the upper arms - why do you want to go with del-sphere bushings and not the SPCs?

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
      why do you want to go with del-sphere bushings and not the SPCs?
      I wanted everything to be the same basic design, single source replacement parts, etc plus I just like them better. I think I have something worked out using a mixture of SPC, Spohn, and custom components using the stock Mustang II cross shaft.

      Unfinished but you get the idea:


    17. #37
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      I understand that motivation. It's always a good idea to keep the complexity down.

      Your picture makes me drooling. You seem to be even more CAD addicted than I - nice details in the parts.

      How come you placed the coil over so far in on the A-arm?

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
      You seem to be even more CAD addicted than I - nice details in the parts.
      I am fortunate that some suppliers have shared their CAD data with me, saves a lot of time. But you are right, I like a lot of detail.


      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post

      How come you placed the coil over so far in on the A-arm?
      Do you mean towards the frame or towards the spindle? I like to keep the front and rear coil-overs as close to the wheel as practical, and then tip the top of the shock in towards the frame 5 degrees. I think the shock and spring can do a better job if they are closer to the wheel / tire (at the expense of higher shock travel and larger upper brackets in the case of the front) It's a balancing act.



      I probably could go another inch or so wider on the rear:



      Do you have a different thought on shock and spring location relative to wheel location for conventionally mounted shocks and springs?

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Santa Clara, CA
      Posts
      620
      Country Flag: United States
      Make sure that you tighten up those jam nuts on your upper control arms.... :-) Beautiful detail on your drawings.
      Steve

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Oxnard, CA
      Posts
      446
      Very nice detail on the CAD work!

    Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com