A/C fittings

[sjaroslo]

We had adapters made to go from o-ring to AN style fittings for our custom VA installs. I would also recommend going with the EZ-clip hose & fittings for your A/C lines. Much easier to route, will make a much tighter bend, and you can install the fittings with the hose in the car. Let me know if you need info or have questions.

Hi, Walt: Thanks for posting--are those adapters something that you sell? The fundamental issue that I have with all of this is that the point of how I was going to do my A/C install in the first place was to minimize connection points--less connection points = less opportunity for leaks. I was going to run uninterrupted hoses all of the way through from under the hood into the passenger compartment and right to the unit--but that really turned out to be a bust when I got right down to it. So now I'm planning to use a bulkhead in the passenger compartment--so I've already introduced additional connection points that I didn't want. Now, with your suggestion, and Spork's, there will be yet another connection next to a connection--seems like a bad plan just to be able to use cool connectors.... I am stuck with the legacy of Prodigy in my head in trying to run the hoses up under the fenderwell and through the old heater fan hole, and down through the fresh air vent, and even with using the E-Z Clip hoses (which are FANTASTIC), it was just a losing proposition to have all 4 hoses attached to the evaporator, feeding them up through the circuitous path, through the fresh air cap, and under the fender... Just was not going to happen. And I'm still trying to hang on to the thought of keeping the firewall clean (although I've already drilled a couple of holes in it for various purposes...). Anyway, looking at Tim's pictures, it looked like the AN connectors were going to thread straight on to the VA nipples, but that just didn't end up working out for me, for whatever reason.

I've ordered some more of the hose adapters from VA, as well as a 12" aluminum pipe with the female o-ring connector at one end, so maybe I can put my own custom 180* bend in it and just use the hose and regular hose clamps to make my connections to the evaporator. Also still waiting on the Restomod Air Synister round bulkhead that I ordered to see if that's going to work as well in reality as I envision it will in my head as a connection point....

Thanks again for the feedback, everybody.

[sjaroslo]

Hey, guys, just a further update with good news! I think that I was just being a pansy-ass up to this point--once I put a wrench on to the fitting and exerted a little bit of effort, it does in fact appear to thread on to the fittings without damaging anything! So I apologize if I lead anyone astray and it looks like this is in fact a viable solution to the VA evaporator set up. I'll update my build thread with pix when I get a little closer.

[Classic Nova & Performance]

Steve,

Sorry about that, I lost track of this thread. Yes the adapters are something we sell. Also, glad you got the AN fitting issue figured out. I was trying to figure out what might have happened, as we have done that conversion on several installs. For what its worth, we haven't had any leak issues. I will agree that sometimes trying to run everything hidden & through restrictive areas can be a challenge.

[sjaroslo]

Here is my humble contribution to this thread.... I have to say, until this thing is installed and leak-free, I'm not going to be certain that my approach is the way to go, but I'm hoping so. So weird on these threads--with the RestoMod Air bulkhead that I ended up going with, some of the fittings thread on to the front of a nipple with great ease and then threading on to the back of the nipple, with identical thread, takes two of my longest wrenches and most of my strength to achieve. I don't have a good explanation but I've stopped looking for one.

I posted more pictures in my build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ut-Build/page4

[Riddler]

Sorry to bump this but does anyone have a link to these fittings? I've tried the few sources linked in this thread and I'm confused as to which ones I need.

Thanks,

EDIT: Is this what I need?
http://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose...g-adapter.html


Riddler

[GRNOVA]

Yes

[sjaroslo]

Yes, you got it. I also found some on eBay but the Nostalgic Air pieces seemed a tad nicer--probably the exact same thing, but what can I say? Be sure to post up some photos if you get your system mocked up!

I also have to say, I'm going to have to take mine back out for several reasons:

• As installed, the hoses are right up against the battery terminal passtrough I installed in the passenger footwell area--I could just get the positive battery cable on to the stud, but there's no way that I can get the nut on and tighten it
• PLUS, I was going to wire the VA main power off of the same stud, so I have the same issue
• PLUS, since I moved the Heater Control Valve into the cabin and attached it to the heater hoses, there is no way that I can get in there to apply the two wires that need to run to it to power it up

Rookie mistakes.

I also need to figure out where I'm going to pass the wires through the firewall to the Trinary Switch/Compressor--I wish that AAW would have provided something like that already in the Classic Update harness. I do have some wires already passing along with the A/C hoses but I really don't want to take that much of the car apart in order to snake through some additional wires. I still have a grommet set up for the DSE wiper motor wiring to pass through plus I've got the granddaddy grommet for the accelerator pedal and diagnostic port wiring to traverse, so I can probably sneak the rest of it through one of those (hopefully).

[Riddler]

I noticed no one has the heater control valve with fittings. Is everyone installing it in the engine bay with regular hose?

Has anyone converted a heater control valve to an fittings?

Riddler

[sjaroslo]

At least the valve that is included in the VA Gen IV kit has a plastic molded body with the fittings cast in--not a lot of options for replacing with fittings. I suppose maybe someone makes a replacement unit?

[sjaroslo]

Hi, Guys--doing my annual Favorite Thread Revival! I notice that Vintage Air has stopped selling the horrible Heater Control Valve that came with the early Gen IV kits and now is selling a Servo Motor HCV and a retrofit installation kit for early Gen IV systems that are out there. Has anyone retrofitted the new valve into their existing systems? Part of my is thinking that this is going to be a hell of a lot cleaner to do while the car is still a project and there's no coolant and no Freon in it but the bigger part of me just wants to get the bloody car started.... Would be interested in hearing any opinions or real world experiences. Thanks in advance.

[XLexusTech]

I know this is an old thread but why run all the hose and put the valve in the cabin? Wouldn't it be better in the engine bay ? I am thinking of tucking it under the fender with the receiver dryer (on firewall)

Valve being the heater control valve

[Rick2964]

You have no idea how you "dredging" up this old thread has just helped me out! I posted a question a week ago hoping for anything and then this popped up with pics. Exactly where im at right now on my 69 Camaro. Im trying to decide whether to run the valve under dash or behind the fender. Only issue behind the fender then you have to extend the wiring back through the firewall. Im running the bulkhead connector with a clean firewall so I really dont want to do that. Not sure if there is an advantage either way but this thread just enlightened me after a weekend of head pounding dealing with this PITA vintage air....

[XLexusTech]

You have no idea how you "dredging" up this old thread has just helped me out! I posted a question a week ago hoping for anything and then this popped up with pics. Exactly where im at right now on my 69 Camaro. Im trying to decide whether to run the valve under dash or behind the fender. Only issue behind the fender then you have to extend the wiring back through the firewall. Im running the bulkhead connector with a clean firewall so I really dont want to do that. Not sure if there is an advantage either way but this thread just enlightened me after a weekend of head pounding dealing with this PITA vintage air....

You're going to have to run the AC pressure switch wiring back anyway... so If I go the fender route which I am definitely for my Reciever Dryer they wiring for that switch needs to go back to the VA unit anyway. SO not a problem

[Rick2964]

Excellent thanks

[Spork82]

sjarsolo thanks for the heads up, first time in over a year I pulled the cover off the car and looked at that ugly valve and thought there had to be a better way. And thanks to the rest of the guys for bringing this thread back. Lots of good info.

Maybe 2017 will be the year!

[XLexusTech]

So working on this today... turns out ou a gen 1 camaro thier is quite a bit of interference to deal with. I suspect DSE mounted the heater valve inside because you have to loop the lines pretty long to get them in and looping them and coming in @ a 90 is easier then short lines so the valve is easy this way
Also the vintage air barbed ends 90 are way bigger then an AN 90 so don't buy them

[XLexusTech]

So anyone know a source for 37 Degree adapters or can confirm they got 45 degree ones to work?

[bkfast02]

Reviving an old thread. While searching for the #10 o-ring to -10 flare fittings, I can only find AC adapters which are the 45 degree flares. Restating XLexusTech's question; Will these work or does someone make an adapter for a true -AN 37 degree flare?

[DT69Cam]

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...r-hose-routing



I asked the same question in this thread. I installed them in my heater lines.