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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Castro Valley, CA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States

      Timing issues. Chevy 350 with HEI dist

      Distributor was set correctly with rotor pointing at #1 cyl so I can rule that out.

      I am at 50 degrees in timing. When I go to set it lower the car will die and spit out the carb. Could my distributor be bad? It is only 1 week old. I already tried a new coil and new ig module but it is still not working. Car likes to be at 50 for some reason but because of this I am overheating like crazy.

      What else could be wrong? Cam installed wrong? Bad dizzy? I am lost. HELP!

      John S.

      68 "Bloodline" Camaro in assembly...

      Speedtech Sub, Alston G-Billet/Fab 9 rear, Ridetech coil overs, Moser axles, Fesler 19's, Lots of Anvil parts,Twin tubo LS3/T56, Carbon fiber manifold, and the list goes on and on..........


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      Sunny Florida on the Suncoast
      Posts
      1,060
      Country Flag: United States
      Slipped balancer ring or the wrong combination of balancer and timing marker.
      Stay in it till you see God....then lift

      Where patience fails, force prevails

      "When you're born, you get a ticket to the freak show. When you're born in America, you get a front-row seat." G. Carlin

      Stapp's Ironical Paradox...... "The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle."

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      In the woods...
      Posts
      26
      +1. Are these the original balancer and timing chain cover for this engine? Did you verify your timing marks? Is 0° on your timing markers truly TDC? Also, you're checking your timing on the front driver's side plug wire, right?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Orange, CA
      Posts
      456
      If you need 50 degrees at idle, and you are definitely checking the #1 cylinder, then either the balancer has slipped or is the wrong one, or the timing marker is the wrong one. PERIOD

      Use a dead stop and bring the motor to TDC #1 and then compare you timing marks, I am sure you will find something amiss
      Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW What a Ride!'

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Castro Valley, CA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      thanks guys I will pull the balance off tonight and try a new one. The marker I have is new and correct.

      The one on there is an 8" should I have a 7"?
      John S.

      68 "Bloodline" Camaro in assembly...

      Speedtech Sub, Alston G-Billet/Fab 9 rear, Ridetech coil overs, Moser axles, Fesler 19's, Lots of Anvil parts,Twin tubo LS3/T56, Carbon fiber manifold, and the list goes on and on..........

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Orange, CA
      Posts
      456
      There are a couple of different ones for the 350 and are off by as much as 10 degrees if I remember (maybe more). The diameter will correspond to the timing indicator or timing cover being used, you can't mix them - the 7" will be too far away from the 8" marker and the 7" marker will run into the 8" balancer.
      Again i would really find True TDC with a piston stop and see where you are at this point
      Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW What a Ride!'

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Castro Valley, CA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      ARGG! I noticed I have no crank bolt. I went to screw in a new one and its stripped. Damn! So now even if I get the balancer off I have no way of putting it back on. Motor has to come out now to tap a new hole right?

      I bought the car with this motor in it. Its killin me now.
      John S.

      68 "Bloodline" Camaro in assembly...

      Speedtech Sub, Alston G-Billet/Fab 9 rear, Ridetech coil overs, Moser axles, Fesler 19's, Lots of Anvil parts,Twin tubo LS3/T56, Carbon fiber manifold, and the list goes on and on..........

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      Sunny Florida on the Suncoast
      Posts
      1,060
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by DynoDon View Post
      There are a couple of different ones for the 350 and are off by as much as 10 degrees if I remember (maybe more). The diameter will correspond to the timing indicator or timing cover being used, you can't mix them - the 7" will be too far away from the 8" marker and the 7" marker will run into the 8" balancer.
      Again i would really find True TDC with a piston stop and see where you are at this point
      There are ones that are more than 10° off. The ones on smog era SBC (these are the ones where you look between the water pump and timing cover) are about 50° BTDC if it is mixed with the early timing markers (on the driverside of the engine). Then to make things even more interesting there is a van/motorhome one that is on the bottom of the engine.
      Stay in it till you see God....then lift

      Where patience fails, force prevails

      "When you're born, you get a ticket to the freak show. When you're born in America, you get a front-row seat." G. Carlin

      Stapp's Ironical Paradox...... "The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle."

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Easton, PA
      Posts
      989
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John510 View Post
      ARGG! I noticed I have no crank bolt. I went to screw in a new one and its stripped. Damn! So now even if I get the balancer off I have no way of putting it back on. Motor has to come out now to tap a new hole right?

      I bought the car with this motor in it. Its killin me now.
      some cranks weren't threaded for a bolt; I had a mid '60's 283 w/o one. I used to tap it on w/ a rubber mallet.
      agreed on needing to find your TDC, then mark it yourself on the tab or get a different tab.
      Keith C.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      4,462
      Country Flag: United States
      First of all,
      Remove the drivers side valve cover , distributor cap, and #1 sparkplug.
      Bring the engine up to TDC on #1 cylinder and make sure everything is properly phased.
      With the valve cover off and the ditributor cap off , you can see exactly the relationship of ignition rotor , rocker arms , timing mark , and actual TDC of the piston.
      Make sure everything lines up right , then proceed ..
      This way , you can double check your timing mark , distributor position , camshaft timing , etc..

      You do need a crank bolt.
      I had to do the same thing on my ' 69 when I first bought it.
      It was the first repair I ever did on it.
      I feel your pain .
      Last edited by JEFFTATE; 09-28-2010 at 04:51 AM.
      Jeff Tate
      U.S.A.
      "The best thing about participating in these events is that you get to hang out with a group of intelligent like minded people who live to achieve things in their lives. You won't find a lazy, mean, or dumb bone in their bodies." Bret Voelkel, RideTech

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Bethlehem, PA
      Posts
      50
      Are you sure you used the right bolt in the crank?

      Try a tap and see if any threads are left then try a heli coil.

      Does the balancer have have the key still in there? You need it to keep it from spinning.

      Who built your motor? Check with them for the right bolt.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Yup, need a bolt to hold the balancer/dampener on....they will come off at the most inopportune time, and it won't be pretty.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      just to be sure Are you pulling the vaccum hose off the Vac advance can when checking???? With 32 total plus the vac advance 50 sounds about correct. Assuming you have all your timing coming in fast.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Castro Valley, CA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by LowBuckX View Post
      just to be sure Are you pulling the vaccum hose off the Vac advance can when checking???? With 32 total plus the vac advance 50 sounds about correct. Assuming you have all your timing coming in fast.
      With the vaccuum it was around 80+. I cant remember if that was with the vac on or off though. It went off the charts with that though. Not even registerable with the timing gun
      John S.

      68 "Bloodline" Camaro in assembly...

      Speedtech Sub, Alston G-Billet/Fab 9 rear, Ridetech coil overs, Moser axles, Fesler 19's, Lots of Anvil parts,Twin tubo LS3/T56, Carbon fiber manifold, and the list goes on and on..........

    15. #15
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Orange, CA
      Posts
      456
      Quote Originally Posted by LowBuckX View Post
      just to be sure Are you pulling the vaccum hose off the Vac advance can when checking???? With 32 total plus the vac advance 50 sounds about correct. Assuming you have all your timing coming in fast.
      I think he was saying that it was showing 50 degrees of INITIAL!
      Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW What a Ride!'

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      just had to ask.... puzzles need all the peices.. Im betting on a slipped ring also... Have access to a degree wheel???
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      If you use an adjustable timing light(dial back), you can turn the dial until you get the timing mark on zero....glance at the dial and see where you are sitting. Also make sure the mechanical weights haven't stuck or the advance plate isn't stuck....something is amiss. Maybe the dizzy is a tooth off whne the dizzy was put back into the motor. Easy to do, especially if the oil pump shaft turned a wee bit and let it just slide in.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Castro Valley, CA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      I feel like an idiot. How do I find TDC with no crank bolt? I am turning slowly with starter jump and I cannot tell how to find true TDC. I thought it was at TDC and set distributor and now its popping smoke out the carb. Arrrrrrggggg
      John S.

      68 "Bloodline" Camaro in assembly...

      Speedtech Sub, Alston G-Billet/Fab 9 rear, Ridetech coil overs, Moser axles, Fesler 19's, Lots of Anvil parts,Twin tubo LS3/T56, Carbon fiber manifold, and the list goes on and on..........

    19. #19
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      My old 327 never had a bolt in it from factory....no provisions for one either. Belts will hold it on right?

      I removed the 3 other bolts that hold the pulley on, put on a bolt grip puller and made a big washer to keep it from pushing on the crank snout. Used that to rotate the engine.

      your gonna have to degree your dampner.

      Make a pointer or use the one you have as a reference mark.

      As someone suggested above...Use a piston stop in cyl 1 hole, turn slow by hand to one stop, mark the dampner, then back up to stop again then mark the dampner...move forward to half way point of your two marks and that will be your TDC.

      If it was me I'd just move that distributer till it idled good then keep advancing till it started to detonate under full acceleration. Then back it up abit.

      If you are ever in San Mateo, bring some Jamba juice by the shop and I'll take care of it for you.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

      https://www.pro-touring.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=4&dateline=1323422564
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    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Castro Valley, CA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      LOL my car wont make it over the bridge. it is overheating after 5 mins. Im giving up. Time to have it towed it to a shop.
      John S.

      68 "Bloodline" Camaro in assembly...

      Speedtech Sub, Alston G-Billet/Fab 9 rear, Ridetech coil overs, Moser axles, Fesler 19's, Lots of Anvil parts,Twin tubo LS3/T56, Carbon fiber manifold, and the list goes on and on..........

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