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    Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
    Results 81 to 100 of 138
    1. #81
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      363
      Country Flag: United States
      I got it off ebay. There's a bunch of people selling them. This one doesn't have the garage remote...I think it was like $40ish. There's four wires that connect to it.



    2. #82
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Gorgeous car! You're doing great work. I love the 69s. I think I'm going to have to build one instead of another second gen since I already have a 79. Your vert was gorgeous too. Such a shame someone hit it.

      Where in Texas are you if you don't mind me asking? I see you have trees and humidity so I'm guessing south and east of me, lol.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      363
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Trey. I originally hail from the thriving metropolis of Seminole TX, but have been in Houston for about 5 years.

      Yeah, blacking out the nose of the car helps hide some of the awkward lines that the 69s came with.

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Atlanta GA
      Posts
      7,477

    5. #85
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Posts
      316
      awesome looking car! Great job

    6. #86
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Santa Fe Springs, CA
      Posts
      625
      Quote Originally Posted by ModernMuseum View Post
      Getting closer....




      ModernMuseum – That’s a really awesome looking Bird! Do you have SBC or BBC springs? Either way, the springs will settle a little after you drive a little bit. A 2-inch drop from stock looks close to what you have there. Dropping the fender over the tire might require a little more tweaking.

      Are you installing a steel or glass hood? Your battery already in the trunk already taking weight off the nose…good job! Nice car!
      Hotchkis Sport Suspension
      Toll Free: 877-466-7655

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      363
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Hotchkis View Post
      ModernMuseum – That’s a really awesome looking Bird! Do you have SBC or BBC springs? Either way, the springs will settle a little after you drive a little bit. A 2-inch drop from stock looks close to what you have there. Dropping the fender over the tire might require a little more tweaking.

      Are you installing a steel or glass hood? Your battery already in the trunk already taking weight off the nose…good job! Nice car!
      Hotchkis - thanks for the response. I'm not really sure which ones I have. The car came with the springs already installed and the previous owner had plans to install a re-built 400 pontiac (original engine). So, he possibly put the 2" dropped BBC springs in?

      Since I'm now running an LS motor, should I have 2" dropped SBC springs in, which would make the car sit lower?

      I'll be installing a steel hood, which will add a little weight to the front end and possibly make it sit a little lower. How much driving time should I allow before the springs are fully set?

    8. #88
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,193
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ModernMuseum View Post
      Yes, sir. I'll be in Houston for a good while. Drop me a line whenever you come in and make sure and bring the firebird.
      What part of Houston? We'll be in NE, off of Lake Houston Prkwy near Beltway 8.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Santa Fe Springs, CA
      Posts
      625
      Quote Originally Posted by ModernMuseum View Post
      Hotchkis - thanks for the response. I'm not really sure which ones I have. The car came with the springs already installed and the previous owner had plans to install a re-built 400 pontiac (original engine). So, he possibly put the 2" dropped BBC springs in?

      Since I'm now running an LS motor, should I have 2" dropped SBC springs in, which would make the car sit lower?

      I'll be installing a steel hood, which will add a little weight to the front end and possibly make it sit a little lower. How much driving time should I allow before the springs are fully set?

      ModernMuseum – Some 2” drop SBC springs would be much better considering your LS engine… especially if it’s an aluminum block LS.

      If you really want to drop the front, you’re probably better off going with the 3” drop small block springs. But it depends on where you want the car to sit. If you have Hotchkis lower control arms you can install our aluminum spacer rings if you want to raise it a ¼ or ½” for tuning your ride height.



      But before you make any changes to your suspension to gain desired ride height, you should at least wait until your car is complete so that you have all the weight over the front wheels.
      Hotchkis Sport Suspension
      Toll Free: 877-466-7655

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      363
      Country Flag: United States
      Turns out the trans tunnel was hitting the trans just about everywhere, so I had to spend the afternoon cutting that out....





    11. #91
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Idaho Falls, Id
      Posts
      1,342
      Missed this thread all this time. I really like the look with the new wheels
      Traven

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Eminence, Kentucky
      Posts
      2
      I love the blacked out trim and grill...very nice.

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      363
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks gents...she's getting there - slowly, but surely

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Amsterdam,The Netherlands
      Posts
      881
      Country Flag: Netherlands
      Awesome, subscribed!


      Cliff
      1968 Firebird
      Project Cheyenne Pro Performance

    15. #95
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      363
      Country Flag: United States
      tadaaaaa!

      (a magnum WILL NOT fit with a stock tunnel....well, it will, but it'll rub in several places)

      btw, the method below is patented, so if you bend metal as such, please contact my lawyer.













      (not shown is the part where I screwed up the angles and had to flatten the steel and start over. at $30 for a 24x24" piece, I couldn't afford to waste any).

      ps. blow me home depot and your stupid steel prices, but at least you carry it. I called around to, i kid you not, probably 20 welding and machine shops on saturday, and NO ONE would sell me sheet metal. whiskey effin tango. whatever.

    16. #96
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      ohio
      Posts
      1,135
      Country Flag: United States
      LOL!!!! kinda like me.……… I don't have anything to bend metal but hand tools. Tell ur lawyer to expect a call from me soon
      keep the wheels a spinning and the Beavers a grinning(burt reynolds-smokey and the bandit)

    17. #97
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Fort Worth, Texas
      Posts
      158
      Country Flag: United States
      coming along great!

    18. #98
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      363
      Country Flag: United States
      A few more updates...I'd say the car is knocking on 90% complete now.

      I got about 80 to 90% of the wiring completed this past weekend. The only primary things I have left to do with regards to wiring are:

      Wire up the main keyed switch with its inputs/outputs. There are still some things I don't quite comprehend here so, this being the case, usually results in me doing at least two hours of research for every hour of work in the car so I don't fry something.

      Wire up my dome lights and rear view mirror (which also has dome lights/map lights). I think the door jam switches ground the circuits and I haven't quite figured out how the GENTEX mirrors switch on and off. Apparently there are several different versions which are wired different ways, and a lot of them have different colored wires coming out. I think I'm going to wire this up near the end when I have the car powered up. I think it will be easier that way.

      Wire up the last temp sensor for fan control (I have three temp sensors: fan control (switch), dakota digital (temp sender) and factor temp sensor). If I can't find an adapter to run the last temp sensor into the passenger side head, I'll have to run two sensors in the rubber radiator hoses.

      Wire up the reverse lock-out solenoid. I ordered a black pistol grip shifter from JEGS which has a switch at the top. I've learned, so I think, that the typical way people wire this up is by running it through the brake switch in series, which means that every time I pressed the brake, the solenoid would actuate. This doesn't really seem like a good way to wire it up from a longevity standpoint, so I'm opting with the shifter switch. Plus it's black, it's a pistol grip and looks pretty rad. Extra douche points when people think it's a nitrous switch.

      I also got the tank re-installed and wired in this weekend, which was a small feat to bench press it while bolting it into place. I had to take it out to get a local shop to fab the little bracket on the front of the tank, as shown. Hopefully the fuel return setup I have below works. Instead of running a return, one of my racing buddies stated that almost all dirt track racers send the pressure regulator return back to the pump inlet as such. I seriously hope this works - the guy who made the recommendation is very knowledgeable, so I trust that it will.








      So, the only main things left to do in order to get the car on the street are:

      Finish electrical stuff
      Fill with fluids
      Grease joints
      Bleed clutch
      Take to an upholstery shop to get the back seat done
      Get front end aligned
      Fab up a console, which will hide the window switch/door lock wiring.
      Paint/install intake (i decided against powder coating to save some cash)
      Paint/install windshield wipers
      Re-install hood
      Power up and test electrical

    19. #99
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      363
      Country Flag: United States
      I love you, JEGS. You always deliver my stuff to me in a timely manner That quality on this thing feels pretty awesome...much better than expected. The switch here should be a better way to engage the reverse lockout solenoid.


    20. #100
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Sydney, Australia
      Posts
      1,798
      Country Flag: Australia
      Hurst part....quality should be nice. I bought a Hurst round knob that has a machine cut logo on the top...really nicely made piece.
      Regards,
      Leigh

      Sydney, Australia
      1971 Firebird 455

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Project/page27

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