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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48

      Lowering blocks on 2nd gen f-body

      How do you install lowering block on the 2nd gen f-bodies? They only have one U-bolt per side and the bracket looks to be welded to the axle housing? Any write ups or pics on this being done?

      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
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      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      I did away with the T-bolts and used two U-bolts per side. Gently slip the additional U-bolt between the brake line and the axle tube and gently form it so that it doesn't kink the line. Not sure that I would use more than maybe an inch block....beyond that I think you might be asking for trouble. Ideally you could have the springs re-arched to alter the ride height or buy a set already at the height you want.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      Yeah i have 1 inch blocks. The max i'd go is 2 inches....but going to see what 1 inch will do. Where exactly do i put the block?between the 2 bottom plates?(the leaf pack would be in there also)
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2002
      Location
      Redwood City, CA
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      1,895,413,640
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      The block will sit between the leafs and the axle. Don't the blocks usually come with u-bolts? They should.
      Allen Ortega
      Meanstreets Performance Fabrication

      ---------------------------------------

      Vegetarians are the reason for global warming

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
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      Quote Originally Posted by zbugger View Post
      The block will sit between the leafs and the axle.
      Yup...you will need longer U-bolts. I would step up one size and drill out the plates and perches to match, larger diameter bolts can't hurt. Clamp the spring plates down if you ream the holes out....a buddy tried to hold his by hand and the plate spun out of his hand and beat the crap out of him.....LOL
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      Yeah the kit is from Autozone & included U-bolts. They're also the cut billet instead of the extruded which is good.
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
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      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      Also you can disassemble the leafs and remove the bottom one(shortest leaf).

      vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      How much drop will that give me & how will it affect the ride & handling?
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
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      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      not sure but you can experiment.


      Vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
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      Quote Originally Posted by tnbandit View Post
      How much drop will that give me & how will it affect the ride & handling?
      If your springs are the soft sprung factory springs...I wouldn't take a leaf out, it will make the rear very mushy and it will wheel hop like crazy....just my two cents.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      I've always heard mixed results about taking leafs out. I'm just wanting economical way to safely drop the ride height a little without making the handling go away. That's why I bought the blocks & I'll probably cut 1/2 a coil to 1 coil off my front springs just to bring it down an inch or two. Later I'll buy a setup from Hotchkis or pro-touring f-body.
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      the last leaf is usually just a spacer, or at least looks like one.

      You can always redrill your front mounting plate hole up 1".




      vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

      https://www.pro-touring.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=4&dateline=1323422564
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    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      SoCal
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      Quote Originally Posted by tnbandit View Post
      How much drop will that give me & how will it affect the ride & handling?
      The lowering block does nothing more than to mount the rear axle higher up on the leaf springs. It will lower the rear of the car by the same amount as it is thick.


      I have 1.5" lowering blocks on the rear of my car to help out the Hotchkis "lowering leaf springs." I'd recommend against taking a leaf out. The stock springs are pretty mushy, and I wouldn't want to live with the rear end any softer.

      Aftermarket springs aren't that expensive. If you limit yourself to springs and some replacement bushings, you should be able to keep the cost at about 500 dollars.

      When I replaced my springs, it was not only out of desire, but out of necessity. The original leaf springs and coils were literally falling apart. At any rate, you current springs might be just fine. Good luck and tell us how it goes.
      Brett H.

      1979 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
      1991 Mazda Miata
      2005 Ford Mustang GT

      1987 Ford Mustang GT - Sold 06-29-2014
      1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - RIP 9-17-2011
      1992 Chevrolet Corvette - Sold 10-12-2017

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      48
      I know my bushings look like crap, all cracked and dry rotted. And I want to get new lowering springs, just don't have the extra funds to do so. Also need to get new shocks as the air shocks have to go. I still need to buy tires for the front for my 17's too. And then there's all my steering components that need attention. My parts list is so long LOL
      78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Altadena CA
      Posts
      2

      Lowering blocks

      I have a 1967 Firebird with a 3 inch axle housing. I want to lower 1 1/2 inches. Where can I get a lowering block kit?

      Thanks

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      Where can I get a lowering block kit---Circle track folks or 4 wheel trucks.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      271
      I can't remember but I think I got mine at Jegs or YearOne. They're really the same as for S-10 pickups and come with all hardware like U-bolts, etc.
      I went with 2" lowering blocks for the desired drop and to match the 2" drop in the front. Handles great but is low to the ground w/Flowmasters.

      Tom Koontz


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,291
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 79-TA View Post
      I have 1.5" lowering blocks on the rear of my car to help out the Hotchkis "lowering leaf springs."
      How low does your car sit? My 77 Z28 with hotchkis springs is too low.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      As you get over 1" for a lowering blocks you will start to find some very odd wheel-hop issues.

      Plan on buying shock extensions at the same time
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
      How low does your car sit? My 77 Z28 with hotchkis springs is too low.
      Quite low, but not that radical. Mostly, I think it is due to Hotchkis, until fairly recently, not distinguishing between early and late 2nd gen f bodies. It was only a year ago that they had that '80 Trans Am in for parts fitting.


      Here's the hillbilly stance that my Hotchkis leaf springs gave me (bought and installed in November '05, pic taken in March '08. Eibach coils up front were perfect.) I'm not sure, but I think current late 2nd gen specific Hotchkis leafsprings do a better job of lowering the car.



      Today, the distance from the center of the rear wheel to the middle of the fender (as to take overall wheel/tire diameter out of the equation) is 14.5 inches.

      Here is my car as it sat at RTTC with both the Hotchkis leaf springs and lowering blocks (the smaller overall diameter of the wheel/tire combination lowers the car more than 3/4 in. Radial TA diameter was 26.7, current tire is 25.1)



      The smaller overall diameter of the tires do make the car that much more impractical. For instance, I only have 6 inches of clearance beneath the wheel flares (and whatever sheet metal at the same height) along with drooping mufflers that have no practical clearance (you can see this in the picture as well.)
      Brett H.

      1979 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
      1991 Mazda Miata
      2005 Ford Mustang GT

      1987 Ford Mustang GT - Sold 06-29-2014
      1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - RIP 9-17-2011
      1992 Chevrolet Corvette - Sold 10-12-2017

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