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  1. #1
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    Default Lowering blocks on 2nd gen f-body

    How do you install lowering block on the 2nd gen f-bodies? They only have one U-bolt per side and the bracket looks to be welded to the axle housing? Any write ups or pics on this being done?



    78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.


  2. #2
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    I did away with the T-bolts and used two U-bolts per side. Gently slip the additional U-bolt between the brake line and the axle tube and gently form it so that it doesn't kink the line. Not sure that I would use more than maybe an inch block....beyond that I think you might be asking for trouble. Ideally you could have the springs re-arched to alter the ride height or buy a set already at the height you want.
    1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
    89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
    Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


  3. #3
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    Yeah i have 1 inch blocks. The max i'd go is 2 inches....but going to see what 1 inch will do. Where exactly do i put the block?between the 2 bottom plates?(the leaf pack would be in there also)
    78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

  4. #4
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    The block will sit between the leafs and the axle. Don't the blocks usually come with u-bolts? They should.
    Allen Ortega
    Meanstreets Performance Fabrication

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by zbugger View Post
    The block will sit between the leafs and the axle.
    Yup...you will need longer U-bolts. I would step up one size and drill out the plates and perches to match, larger diameter bolts can't hurt. Clamp the spring plates down if you ream the holes out....a buddy tried to hold his by hand and the plate spun out of his hand and beat the crap out of him.....LOL
    1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
    89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
    Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


  6. #6
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    Yeah the kit is from Autozone & included U-bolts. They're also the cut billet instead of the extruded which is good.
    78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

  7. #7
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    Also you can disassemble the leafs and remove the bottom one(shortest leaf).

    vince
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  8. #8
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    How much drop will that give me & how will it affect the ride & handling?
    78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

  9. #9
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    not sure but you can experiment.


    Vince
    MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tnbandit View Post
    How much drop will that give me & how will it affect the ride & handling?
    If your springs are the soft sprung factory springs...I wouldn't take a leaf out, it will make the rear very mushy and it will wheel hop like crazy....just my two cents.
    1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
    89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
    Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


  11. #11
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    I've always heard mixed results about taking leafs out. I'm just wanting economical way to safely drop the ride height a little without making the handling go away. That's why I bought the blocks & I'll probably cut 1/2 a coil to 1 coil off my front springs just to bring it down an inch or two. Later I'll buy a setup from Hotchkis or pro-touring f-body.
    78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

  12. #12
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    the last leaf is usually just a spacer, or at least looks like one.

    You can always redrill your front mounting plate hole up 1".




    vince
    MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

    http://www.pro-touring.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=4&dateline=1323422564
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tnbandit View Post
    How much drop will that give me & how will it affect the ride & handling?
    The lowering block does nothing more than to mount the rear axle higher up on the leaf springs. It will lower the rear of the car by the same amount as it is thick.


    I have 1.5" lowering blocks on the rear of my car to help out the Hotchkis "lowering leaf springs." I'd recommend against taking a leaf out. The stock springs are pretty mushy, and I wouldn't want to live with the rear end any softer.

    Aftermarket springs aren't that expensive. If you limit yourself to springs and some replacement bushings, you should be able to keep the cost at about 500 dollars.

    When I replaced my springs, it was not only out of desire, but out of necessity. The original leaf springs and coils were literally falling apart. At any rate, you current springs might be just fine. Good luck and tell us how it goes.
    Brett H.

    1979 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
    1991 Mazda Miata
    1992 Chevrolet Corvette

    1987 Ford Mustang GT - Sold 06-29-2014
    1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - RIP 9-17-2011

  14. #14
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    I know my bushings look like crap, all cracked and dry rotted. And I want to get new lowering springs, just don't have the extra funds to do so. Also need to get new shocks as the air shocks have to go. I still need to buy tires for the front for my 17's too. And then there's all my steering components that need attention. My parts list is so long LOL
    78 Trans Am 6.6L,TH350, 3.08 posi, work in progress.

  15. #15
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    Dec 2008
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    Altadena CA
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    Default Lowering blocks

    I have a 1967 Firebird with a 3 inch axle housing. I want to lower 1 1/2 inches. Where can I get a lowering block kit?

    Thanks

  16. #16
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    Jun 2006
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    Katy,TX
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    Where can I get a lowering block kit---Circle track folks or 4 wheel trucks.

  17. #17
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    I can't remember but I think I got mine at Jegs or YearOne. They're really the same as for S-10 pickups and come with all hardware like U-bolts, etc.
    I went with 2" lowering blocks for the desired drop and to match the 2" drop in the front. Handles great but is low to the ground w/Flowmasters.
    Tom Koontz

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 79-TA View Post
    I have 1.5" lowering blocks on the rear of my car to help out the Hotchkis "lowering leaf springs."
    How low does your car sit? My 77 Z28 with hotchkis springs is too low.
    Scott from NJ. Stay thirsty, my friends

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  19. #19
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    As you get over 1" for a lowering blocks you will start to find some very odd wheel-hop issues.

    Plan on buying shock extensions at the same time
    1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

    But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

    Just call me Brett

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
    How low does your car sit? My 77 Z28 with hotchkis springs is too low.
    Quite low, but not that radical. Mostly, I think it is due to Hotchkis, until fairly recently, not distinguishing between early and late 2nd gen f bodies. It was only a year ago that they had that '80 Trans Am in for parts fitting.


    Here's the hillbilly stance that my Hotchkis leaf springs gave me (bought and installed in November '05, pic taken in March '08. Eibach coils up front were perfect.) I'm not sure, but I think current late 2nd gen specific Hotchkis leafsprings do a better job of lowering the car.



    Today, the distance from the center of the rear wheel to the middle of the fender (as to take overall wheel/tire diameter out of the equation) is 14.5 inches.

    Here is my car as it sat at RTTC with both the Hotchkis leaf springs and lowering blocks (the smaller overall diameter of the wheel/tire combination lowers the car more than 3/4 in. Radial TA diameter was 26.7, current tire is 25.1)



    The smaller overall diameter of the tires do make the car that much more impractical. For instance, I only have 6 inches of clearance beneath the wheel flares (and whatever sheet metal at the same height) along with drooping mufflers that have no practical clearance (you can see this in the picture as well.)
    Brett H.

    1979 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
    1991 Mazda Miata
    1992 Chevrolet Corvette

    1987 Ford Mustang GT - Sold 06-29-2014
    1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - RIP 9-17-2011

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