1967 Mustang Coupe, Project "Code Blue"

[Wesley J]

If you are considering 8.8 vs 9", the 9" has a lower pinion compared to the 8.8, so you can tuck it up inside the care more, if that matters at all to you. The downside is that the low pinion placement requires a high helix angle, so you get more noise, heat, and drivetrain loss. The 8.8 is a better performance design, and can be built to handle quite a bit of power.

Thanks, thats good information.

But, I'm not considering a 9", I'm condering an 8.8" with 9" big bearing housings vs a 8.8" with a floater setup.

Cheers,



Wes

[Wesley J]

I have a thing for fasteners.... HAHA.


I sell these fasteners (http://www.acumentnorthamerica.com/socket_screws.asp) and was able to get the specs from the sales rep. I cannot find them on the website. I will try and scan them in this weekend and email them to you.

The material is A574. and I have all the shear and tensile strengths as well as clamping loads when torquing.

Thanks Bryce.

I work in the oil and gas industry and had spent some time early in my career comparing applied torque vs clamping force. What I learned from this is that these 2 things can be very different based on the thread lubricant used, easily on the order of 2 or even 3:1 kind of range. Also, I leaned that the best way to keep fasteners from coming loose is to lubricate them. I know this is counter intuitive but look at it this way. The more clamping force that you put into the bolt at a given makeup torque, the more the bolt stretches. Assuming you keep it below yield, it will maintain a load and therefore stay tight over a larger range of movement, especially thermal.

Anyway, enough blathering, I was trying to get to the question of what do you use for thread lube?

Wes

[bapgood]

I'm eagerly waiting to see what you have been working on in that rear end of yours....maybe that came out wrong

I will be hitting you up for some dim's and advice soon.

Thanks again Bsomething

[Wesley J]

For sure. It's super easy to do the measuring with it sitting on its side. I just had my very first experience as Mr Mom this weekend and it turned out to be crazy busy at work at the same time, so no shop time, just really poor parenting. Had to charge my phone 3 times the one day... Anyway, I should be spending a good amount of time out there this weekend so I'll definately show pictures of my rear... suspension...

Wes

[bapgood]

Wes,
Just wait until they are older and can "help"...it's fun (most of the time) :-)



I attached a pdf with some rough frame dim's. When you find a free minute or two would you mind seeing how they match up?
The notch and the drop height down to the floor level are my biggest question.
The notch width will depend on the distance the pivot point is from the frame, plus things like wheel width/offset/etc. But the pivot point is the first and I haven't nailed that down yet so I waged it.
On the drop height - You said you slopped the floor. I'm assuming you sucked the 2x3 up the ~1/2" difference between the original frame height? Basically made the bottom of the 2x3 the same height as the bottom of the original frame.
On the engine bay portion of the frame I made the assumption the 2x3 frame was ~flush top and inside in correlation to the original frame.
Did you get a chance to measure the wall thickness of the 2x3 you used? I was going to measure the factory frame rails thickness and forgot but it didn't look very thick.

I'm starting to see why you went with the three link. There isn't a lot of room back there.

What are you thinking for a heater?

Anyway enough questions for now.....oh my car fell apart last night



Bradey

[Wesley J]

Nice! I love carnage ;-)

The frame is 0.125" WT. You are correct on the new rails being the same width (inner) as the original and the same height.

I'll make a drawing and take a picture of it and post it here. CAD: Camera Aided Design....

Wes

[Wesley J]

Oh, I should mention that I used the inner fender mounts on the top of the firewall as a reference point for all of my measurements.

[bapgood]

Wes,
Rear suspension....curious on your opinion on using a watts link. You went with a pan hard bar and I bet there was a reason, because you have seemed to make everything else work.

Bradey

[Wesley J]

My reasoning: simplicity, weight, cost. Unless you're running uber close tolerances b/w your tires and hard parts, the panhard is just fine, in my humble opinion.

But much more importantly, if you're an idiot and center the diffy at full droop and then realize that it isn't centred at ride height while on Power Tour 2010 in Alabama, you can sneak under there and center it while the car is running in less than a minute with nothing more than a crescent wrench and people wont notice.

Jackass....

[Crestronwizard]

My reasoning: simplicity, weight, cost. Unless you're running uber close tolerances b/w your tires and hard parts, the panhard is just fine, in my humble opinion.

But much more importantly, if you're an idiot and center the diffy at full droop and then realize that it isn't centred at ride height while on Power Tour 2010 in Alabama, you can sneak under there and center it while the car is running in less than a minute with nothing more than a crescent wrench and people wont notice.

Jackass....

hahahahaha...........and what are these "measurements" you speak of? You mean I was supposed to be measuring things?? crap. 2 1/2 weeks till 8 days in Canada!! Whooohoooo. Hope to catch up with you.

[69fbodyproject]

Car is looking like it's coming along well. Can't wait to see it finished. You going to try to get and do some autocrossing this year? I kept trying to get out after the school last summer but every weekend they were out I was gone working. The roush is back together with a ton of upgrades and man is it stiff now. Now I just need to get through this hitch of days on and maybe I'll be around home to find time to work on the 67 instead of just occasionally looking at it. Got a bunch more parts but haven't accomplished anything on it in months

[Wesley J]

hahahahaha...........and what are these "measurements" you speak of? You mean I was supposed to be measuring things?? crap. 2 1/2 weeks till 8 days in Canada!! Whooohoooo. Hope to catch up with you.

Sounds good. Spring has sprung here, 15 degrees yesterday (or about 60 in stupid units)

Car is looking like it's coming along well. Can't wait to see it finished. You going to try to get and do some autocrossing this year? I kept trying to get out after the school last summer but every weekend they were out I was gone working. The roush is back together with a ton of upgrades and man is it stiff now. Now I just need to get through this hitch of days on and maybe I'll be around home to find time to work on the 67 instead of just occasionally looking at it. Got a bunch more parts but haven't accomplished anything on it in months

I will be autocrossing this summer! Only a small amount of chassis work left to do then it'll be blast/paint. Fuel line, brake lines, exhaust and electrical and a bunch of assembly after that. Sounds so simple.... Look forward to seeing the Roush in action.

Wes

[bapgood]

Wes,
I hate you btw!!! I know I'm like the annoying next door neighbor that just won't stop asking questions....so here goes more ;-)

I was going to ask you for some dim's on your tunnel and started looking at marking up some of your picks.....and noticed that the firewall that I for some reason thought was flat IS NOT!

I really want to leave coyote/T-56 growing room....and I don't want to go this far and not do it.....but there is a reasonable chance those two things may never be....

Anyway....How deep did you inset your firewall?

Bradey

Concept

[69fbodyproject]

I have a feeling your mustang will be a good run for the roush once it's done and figured out. I would love to get the 67 out before the end of the year

[bapgood]

Wes,
When you did your frame did you notice if the rockers were parallel to each other and the frame?

My car is ~1" closer in the front then in the back. I have measured top and bottom in several places and the progression seems pretty linear and there is no obvious signs of anything severely bent or out of place.

Maybe I'm just petting the sweaty stuff, but bolting sheet metal and doors on right now would be a huge pita.

Thanks Bradey

[Wesley J]

Wes,
When you did your frame did you notice if the rockers were parallel to each other and the frame?

Yup, within the accuracy of my tape measure.

[bapgood]

Yup, within the accuracy of my tape measure.

Thanks!

Sounds like I have some manipulating and squaring to do.
Bradey

[Wesley J]

Well, the past while has been slow on the Mustang but thats going to change this weekend. My lovely wife has her best friend coming to town for a few days so I'm free!!! Jeez, I hope she doesnt read this...

Anyway, I've finished up one of the lower link mounts and will get the other one done tomorrow. Then the car will come off the rotisserie for a while so I can finish up the fender wells and get the fenders mounted. A bunch of supplies arrived (rivnuts and tools) as well as my remote oil filter and and cooler. I have a critical mass of parts for diffy construction as well.

Anyway, here is a few shots of the lower link mounts. You can see how I've tied into the frame rail as well as the "rocker box"







Wes

[LowFast]

^ those look great, any more shots of how it is tied in up front. I am working out my subframe connectors for the Falcon which will also act at the lower link mount out back. I like what you have cooking there!

[Wesley J]

Have a look back in the thread for pics. They're not subframe connectors, its essentially a full frame car now.

Cheers,

Wes