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    Results 761 to 780 of 877
    1. #761
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      TN
      Posts
      938
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      This is worth noting: During ALL of my sheetmetal work on the car, including the floor and firewall, I was wishing that I would've cut the ENTIRE floor and firewall out and strarted from scratch. It would have been much easier, faster, nicer and stronger.



      Lesson learned!
      I'll remember that...
      Benjamin

      Twin Dusters
      '72 Plymouth Duster "Aero Duster" project
      '72 Plymouth Duster "Daily Duster" project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...RO-DUSTER-quot


    2. #762
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Yankton, SD
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bjkadron View Post
      I'll remember that...
      Wrestling with that myself. At what point do you decide that line should be crossed and to just do it?

    3. #763
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Quote Originally Posted by 454bug View Post
      Hey Wes,

      I tried to reply to your PM but your mailbox is full...

      BTW, the project is lookin' great!!
      I cleaned it out.

      Thanks a bunch. I'm sure looking forward to seeing your monster done!

      Wes

    4. #764
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Quote Originally Posted by feeble View Post
      Wrestling with that myself. At what point do you decide that line should be crossed and to just do it?
      When you're beating new steel into some unrequired shape just to match up to stock sh!tty steel. Thats when ;-)

    5. #765
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Ok, so I've been sourcing parts etc for my rearend build. I've been reading this damn forum too much and have been trying to decide between an 8.8 with 9" big outer bearing housings and a 8.8" floater.

      My reasons for condsidering a floater:
      - I absolutely hate the idea of brake knock back. The bigger the brake, the greater the chance you'll get it.
      - 8.8" due to weight. Its significantly lighter than a 9" and with a 500 hp 2700 lb car, I dont feel I need the additional strength a 9" provides

      I got a call back from Ron Schreiner (http://www.9inchfloater.com) the same day I sent him an email asking about getting 8.8" splines cut into the axles. Its no problem at all for him to do it, and when you compare the prices of their kit and axles, it looks to only be a couple of hundred buck more money.

      So, I'm looking for some feedback from you guys on the potential negatives. My list is as follows:
      - More money - relatively inconsequential
      - More weight - relatively inconsequential
      - Complexity wrt brakes - not sure if this is true. I dont really have a good feel if I can use my current rotors, which I've already purchased the calipers for.
      - Size - are they going to get in the way with my frame rails?

      Thoughts?

    6. #766
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Posts
      10
      I'm not sure if it made your research, but street or track has a full floater 9" rear out now.. great build btw!

      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      Ok, so I've been sourcing parts etc for my rearend build. I've been reading this damn forum too much and have been trying to decide between an 8.8 with 9" big outer bearing housings and a 8.8" floater.

      My reasons for condsidering a floater:
      - I absolutely hate the idea of brake knock back. The bigger the brake, the greater the chance you'll get it.
      - 8.8" due to weight. Its significantly lighter than a 9" and with a 500 hp 2700 lb car, I dont feel I need the additional strength a 9" provides

      I got a call back from Ron Schreiner (http://www.9inchfloater.com) the same day I sent him an email asking about getting 8.8" splines cut into the axles. Its no problem at all for him to do it, and when you compare the prices of their kit and axles, it looks to only be a couple of hundred buck more money.

      So, I'm looking for some feedback from you guys on the potential negatives. My list is as follows:
      - More money - relatively inconsequential
      - More weight - relatively inconsequential
      - Complexity wrt brakes - not sure if this is true. I dont really have a good feel if I can use my current rotors, which I've already purchased the calipers for.
      - Size - are they going to get in the way with my frame rails?

      Thoughts?
      69 mustang coupe:
      building 408 clevor AFD 2v heads, forged internals
      promotorsports:bumpsteer kit, negative wedge kit,520 progressive coils, shock tower reinforcement kit
      shelby drop, mustangs plus:4 1/2 rear leafs 180,
      racing shackles, sfc's, posi, moser engineering
      daytona pinion support, 31 spline axles, vintage 48's 16x8's

    7. #767
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Thanks, I did see that. Its built for a stock Mustang and doesn't incorporate a parking brake, which I need. Its cost prohibitive, especially considering shipping and duty up here to Canada.

    8. #768
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Utah
      Posts
      27
      Country Flag: United States
      In regards to doing the floater.....IMHO peace of mind is always worth some extras
      1967 Mustang Coupe
      Project Rustang Revival
      My Blog

    9. #769
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Posts
      10
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      Thanks, I did see that. Its built for a stock Mustang and doesn't incorporate a parking brake, which I need. Its cost prohibitive, especially considering shipping and duty up here to Canada.
      ah... understood...
      69 mustang coupe:
      building 408 clevor AFD 2v heads, forged internals
      promotorsports:bumpsteer kit, negative wedge kit,520 progressive coils, shock tower reinforcement kit
      shelby drop, mustangs plus:4 1/2 rear leafs 180,
      racing shackles, sfc's, posi, moser engineering
      daytona pinion support, 31 spline axles, vintage 48's 16x8's

    10. #770
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Phoenix, Arizona
      Posts
      34
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      Ok, so I've been sourcing parts etc for my rearend build. I've been reading this damn forum too much and have been trying to decide between an 8.8 with 9" big outer bearing housings and a 8.8" floater.

      My reasons for condsidering a floater:
      - I absolutely hate the idea of brake knock back. The bigger the brake, the greater the chance you'll get it.
      - 8.8" due to weight. Its significantly lighter than a 9" and with a 500 hp 2700 lb car, I dont feel I need the additional strength a 9" provides

      I got a call back from Ron Schreiner (http://www.9inchfloater.com) the same day I sent him an email asking about getting 8.8" splines cut into the axles. Its no problem at all for him to do it, and when you compare the prices of their kit and axles, it looks to only be a couple of hundred buck more money.

      So, I'm looking for some feedback from you guys on the potential negatives. My list is as follows:
      - More money - relatively inconsequential
      - More weight - relatively inconsequential
      - Complexity wrt brakes - not sure if this is true. I dont really have a good feel if I can use my current rotors, which I've already purchased the calipers for.
      - Size - are they going to get in the way with my frame rails?

      Thoughts?


      Wes,

      IMHO I believe that the complexity of the full floater may negate the structural benefits. The floater also may complicate matters with respect to the mounting of the rear brakes as you mentioned. The 8.8" rear end is significantly strong enough for your application and the fact that you are taking steps to remove the "c-clip" retention scheme will resolve most of the design compromises. For ease of installation, maintenance, availability of spare parts and intended use, I do not see a significant enough benefit to go with the full floater solution.

      Cheers,

      Steve
      68 Mustang Convertible
      408 Stroker
      5 Speed
      Coil Over Suspension

    11. #771
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Ya, thats the same thought pattern I've had. Thanks.

      Ok, maybe I should ask a different question, has anyone experienced knockback with a 9" rearend with big tapered bearings on a car of similar performance levels and 180 tread wear tires while autocrossing?

    12. #772
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Hey Guys,

      Can anyone recommend a place to buy weatherpack connector kits? They seem pretty cheap on fleabay but I'd rather support someone from this community.

      Cheers,

      Wes

    13. #773
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Ok, I think I answered my own question...

      http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/7...kit-p-380.html

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    14. #774
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,102
      Country Flag: United States
      Wesley,

      I sell some at the hardwaare store that I work at part time. If you ever get in a bind and need some pieces call me.

      I sell this brand: http://www.k-four.net/Category.aspx?cid=191

    15. #775
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Utah
      Posts
      27
      Country Flag: United States
      This pic trips me out

      Name:  ScreenShot270.jpg
Views: 2311
Size:  142.1 KB
      1967 Mustang Coupe
      Project Rustang Revival
      My Blog

    16. #776
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Quote Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
      Wesley,

      I sell some at the hardwaare store that I work at part time. If you ever get in a bind and need some pieces call me.

      I sell this brand: http://www.k-four.net/Category.aspx?cid=191
      Thanks Bryce, I appreciate it.

      Say, do you have any linkable info on bolts styles, materials etc? I know you're a bit of a stickler for using the proper style/material of the application and am hoping you can help edumicate me.

      Cheers,

      Wes

    17. #777
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Ya, thats pretty weird looking isnt it. Its just a perspective thing. Those are the old subframe connectors that I cut off. They're gone now and I'm currently working on the structure that connects my new frame rails to the exisitng rear frame rails and "rear torque boxes" or more accurately the structure that ties the rear frame rails to the rocker boxes.

      Its interesting, with all of the cutting, hacking and fabbing I now have a very good understanding of this car's stock structure and load distribution. With this I now see exactly why these cars become drastically stiffer when you fill in the panel behind the rear seat.

      I hope to have said structure done this weekend, one side is almost done. It also integrates my lower link mounts. Lets just say its my best fab workd to date and of course includes some speed holes ;-)

      Quote Originally Posted by bapgood View Post
      This pic trips me out

      Name:  ScreenShot270.jpg
Views: 2311
Size:  142.1 KB

    18. #778
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      I've been chatting back and forth via PM with Brady (bapgood) about a lot of this stuff recently and I thought it'd be good to post here, with Brady's permission, in case others have the same questions.

      Brady:

      - A couple of the things I wondered about is.....
      Would you widen the frame rails at all and just make the notch for front tire clearance deeper? (essentially keeping your notch where it is and widen the rest of the frame)
      Would you run your frame all the way through the car, front bumper to rear bumper (with some trickery over the rear axle)? If so would you do anything majorly different with your rear suspension?

      I'm not sure how I want to do the rear suspension. I plan on some type of link system but not sure what yet. I plan on running the exhaust out the side just before the rear tires. So that opens up some options, but I do want to keep the back seat.


      Wes:

      I think I'm happy with the width of the frame rails. You may have noticed that the floors arent flat up front, they slope down towards the rocker panels. You can move them out towards rockers a bit without effecting ground clearance or intrusion into the foot well but not much. If I would move them out at all, I'd only go as far as to meet up with the rear frame rails. But, with that you do reduce the structure create between the frame rail and rocker. The further they are apart (within reason) the stronger the "truss" they create is. I think regardless of these points, the more important factor is packaging as these things aren't race cars. To make one of these cars truly good handling one needs to go to a full tube chassis IMHO.

      I'm very happy with my 3 link. This may sound stupid but I've never really noticed my rear suspension, with the exception of poor spring/dampening settings. When you dont notice something it usually means it's doing its job.

      And please feel free to ask these questions in my thread so others can benefit from it. I'm no rocket surgeon with dozens of builds under my belt but I like to think I provide good sound Engineering judgement, which tends to get overlooked too often in this community IMHO.

    19. #779
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      Plainfield, IN
      Posts
      99
      Country Flag: United States
      If you are considering 8.8 vs 9", the 9" has a lower pinion compared to the 8.8, so you can tuck it up inside the care more, if that matters at all to you. The downside is that the low pinion placement requires a high helix angle, so you get more noise, heat, and drivetrain loss. The 8.8 is a better performance design, and can be built to handle quite a bit of power.
      1969 1/2 Maverick
      4.6 DOHC, Mustang II front, T56, & Cobra IRS
      Custom Interior in the works.
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2200206

    20. #780
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,102
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      Thanks Bryce, I appreciate it.

      Say, do you have any linkable info on bolts styles, materials etc? I know you're a bit of a stickler for using the proper style/material of the application and am hoping you can help edumicate me.

      Cheers,

      Wes
      I have a thing for fasteners.... HAHA.


      I sell these fasteners (http://www.acumentnorthamerica.com/socket_screws.asp) and was able to get the specs from the sales rep. I cannot find them on the website. I will try and scan them in this weekend and email them to you.

      The material is A574. and I have all the shear and tensile strengths as well as clamping loads when torquing.

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