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    1. #621
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      CO (orig. NY)
      Posts
      140
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      You're welcome and thanks.

      Let me know if you need any specific meaasurements. I'm going to be modding the headers relatively soon so if you want any measurements of them then you've gotta be quick ;-)
      Cool -- thanks! I'll actually be doing a custom setup on the headers as well .. they'll be flipped around to face forward for some other epic plans ;)
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      more than a year and no one has noticed my signature says "1967 Mustang Couple"

      Looks like you guys read as poorly as I do, LOL...
      HAHAHA friggin great...

      ~JB
      68 Mustang Build | 3rd Time's the Charm

      Used to be known as BlackFlame


    2. #622
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Apex, NC
      Posts
      1,020
      Country Flag: United States
      lmao.............I guess we "picture" only what we want too :-)

    3. #623
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Hey Guys,

      Well, winter is fast approaching up here. Weather is still nice but it could turn any day now. Unfortunately for me, that means work gets busier and I've been working 70 hour weeks... But, I have found time to work on installing the controls!

      Other than massive horsepower , the most important part of building one of these cars is getting the ergonimics just right.

      I started off by installing the column. The steering wheel is just about perfect. Maybe it doesnt go quite low enough for that reclined back pimp cruisin position but will be great for performance driving. Plus, I wanted to make sure where it exited the firewall was optimum for u-joint angles. It is.



      Once I got the seats in it was very obvious that the base was tilted back way too much for comfortable long term driving. Probably great for performance driving to keep me from sliding forward under braking but it felt akward to me. So, I modded the seat pan to lower the front of the seat until it was just right. It is.



      Next up was getting the pedals in just the right place. I knew this likely wouldnt be possible on the first try so I integrated adjustability into the mounts. I can move the pedals front to back a total of 1 1/4" and up and down a little more than 1 inch. I moved them around until they were just right. They are. I also had to make sure that the masters had plenty of room for the brake lines to be routed without hitting anything. It's tight but I made it work.





      Then I had to get that weirdo fly by wire pedal mounted. I say weird as it only has a total of 2.5" of travel at the tip of the pedal. Doesnt seem like much to me but once it was mounted it feels ok. I left about 1" of clearance under the pedal at full throttle for the thickness of carpet and floor mats. I know, never drive hard with floormats in but its bound to happen....



      And here is it all together. I need to burn a bunch of wire but that'll happen once I get it up on the rotisserie.



      Cheers,

      Wes

    4. #624
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Apex, NC
      Posts
      1,020
      Country Flag: United States
      Amazing! Looking at yours just makes me realize how much more I need to do! I managed to get one brake hub on .

    5. #625
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      590
      Excellent work.
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    6. #626
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Thanks. The key is to break it down to baby steps, if you look at a bunch of small jobs its much less itimidating

      I think next up is some additional structure that I'm going to build onto the firewall for the cowl to strut tower braces. I hope to start tonight. The the additional tubular bracing from the strut tower to the frame and then the bracing to the rad support.

      Wes

    7. #627
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      590
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      Thanks. The key is to break it down to baby steps, if you look at a bunch of small jobs its much less itimidating
      every once in a while I think of all the small jobs I have left to do. its quite discouraging.
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    8. #628
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Me too, thats when I look forward to a big project like getting it onto the rotiserie. Motivates me to get a bunch of little things done.

      Like my gas pedal mount. It only took me about an hour to form the metal and it turned out perfect. Once in a while you get something that you sit back and go, jeeze, that looks really good, like a pro did it. Its the stuff like trying to bash new metal to mate up with the old junk. Not fun.

      Anyway, being able to sit in the car and make vroom vroom noises while moving the pedals and wheel is motivating. Small things....

    9. #629
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      CO (orig. NY)
      Posts
      140
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome work Wes. I like the simplicity of the steering column you went with -- it makes you realize just how cluster-f*cked in there the OEM unit is. The pedals look great too -- really makes me consider getting them. I'm just not sure if I can get past no power-booster. I'll be on the street 90% of the time.

      I agree on the baby steps and small projects as well -- looking at how quickly these projects can get huge, one small area at a time helps things move along.

      Keep it up man!
      ~JB
      68 Mustang Build | 3rd Time's the Charm

      Used to be known as BlackFlame

    10. #630
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Apex, NC
      Posts
      1,020
      Country Flag: United States
      Keep the updates coming Wes.........my Wilwood kit came with a master cylinder..........are you using a standard Wilwood one or do they make a special one when mounting inside the car? How do you plan to fill it? What are you using for brake lines, stuff from Wilwood or somewhere else?

    11. #631
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Quote Originally Posted by BlackFlame View Post
      I'm just not sure if I can get past no power-booster. I'll be on the street 90% of the time.
      I talked at length with an Engineer at Wilwood and he was adamant that what I had planned was too much brake from such a little/light car. He also said I'd be very unhappy with power brakes, they'd be VERY touchy with no feel. I ran manual brakes on the car when they were the stock SN97 brakes and they were fine. Zero issues on the street.

    12. #632
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Quote Originally Posted by Crestronwizard View Post
      Keep the updates coming Wes.........my Wilwood kit came with a master cylinder..........are you using a standard Wilwood one or do they make a special one when mounting inside the car? How do you plan to fill it? What are you using for brake lines, stuff from Wilwood or somewhere else?
      I spent about an hour in total on the phone with the Engineers at Wilwood sizing my masters and calipers. I'm running dual masters, actually triple when you include the clutch. Anyway, the master sizes are a funtion of pedal swing, caliper piston area, brake pad surface area, disc diameter AND car weight. Additionally he steered me away from the 6 piston expensive calipers that have the same pad and piston area but weigh more and do not perform as well as what I ordered. More and bigger is not always better. There's no reason for me to have 14" discs and 6 pistons on a 2700 lb car on an autocross. If I was road racing at 170 mph then it'd be a different story.

      We tend to get into the more is better philosophy... Not to be negative but you guys down south have perfected it ;-) I've seen more than one video on here of a turbo spooling and shortly after the car spinning.

      Cheers,

      Wees

    13. #633
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Apex, NC
      Posts
      1,020
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the info.........I prob need to call Wilwood............I'm running 13" brakes front and back. Originally I was going 12" in the back but I finally decided to just have them the same size. To finish the brakes I still need line, proportioning valve and to find out if the master cylinder they sent me is correct for what I have in mind

    14. #634
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      CO (orig. NY)
      Posts
      140
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      I talked at length with an Engineer at Wilwood and he was adamant that what I had planned was too much brake from such a little/light car. He also said I'd be very unhappy with power brakes, they'd be VERY touchy with no feel. I ran manual brakes on the car when they were the stock SN97 brakes and they were fine. Zero issues on the street.
      Great info...thanks Wes. I'll have to look into this setup when the time comes -- I REALLY like the hidden master cylinders with the though of just reservoirs in the engine bay. I'll probably need it anyhow with the Coyote motor.
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      I spent about an hour in total on the phone with the Engineers at Wilwood sizing my masters and calipers. I'm running dual masters, actually triple when you include the clutch. Anyway, the master sizes are a funtion of pedal swing, caliper piston area, brake pad surface area, disc diameter AND car weight. Additionally he steered me away from the 6 piston expensive calipers that have the same pad and piston area but weigh more and do not perform as well as what I ordered. More and bigger is not always better. There's no reason for me to have 14" discs and 6 pistons on a 2700 lb car on an autocross. If I was road racing at 170 mph then it'd be a different story.

      We tend to get into the more is better philosophy... Not to be negative but you guys down south have perfected it ;-) I've seen more than one video on here of a turbo spooling and shortly after the car spinning.

      Cheers,

      Wees
      We're definitely stuck in that mental phase..."bigger=better". I can openly admit being guilty of it on a few occasions -- my project car certainly will scream it with the big-ass tires and overly powerful engine.

      Thanks for making me re-think some aspects Wes...as usual...haha.
      ~JB
      68 Mustang Build | 3rd Time's the Charm

      Used to be known as BlackFlame

    15. #635
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,102
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Wesley J View Post
      I spent about an hour in total on the phone with the Engineers at Wilwood sizing my masters and calipers. I'm running dual masters, actually triple when you include the clutch. Anyway, the master sizes are a funtion of pedal swing, caliper piston area, brake pad surface area, disc diameter AND car weight. Additionally he steered me away from the 6 piston expensive calipers that have the same pad and piston area but weigh more and do not perform as well as what I ordered. More and bigger is not always better. There's no reason for me to have 14" discs and 6 pistons on a 2700 lb car on an autocross. If I was road racing at 170 mph then it'd be a different story.

      We tend to get into the more is better philosophy...
      Cheers,

      Wes
      Word! diminishing returns.

    16. #636
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, BC
      Posts
      125
      Country Flag: Canada
      Great job.. I did the exact same thing on my Nova. Arranged the pedals side-to-side and depth-wise to get them comfortable (especially for heel-toe), then clearanced the trans tunnel/floorpan for shoe room to have foot vertical on the gas pedal. Then set seat height and distance once pedals were in for good. Then when pedal was in set the shifter setback/offset to be arm-comfy. Then set the steering column height and finally the steering wheel adapter/spacer to get it in the right spot.

      A TON of work but if you're in these multi-year projects there's no reason not to go the extra mile to make it completely custom & ergonomic for you the driver.

      Look forward to many more updates
      1972 Nova, forged LQ4 with twin 6466's, T56 Magnum, OEM subframe w/ Speedtech front, Chassisworks gLink rear, Ridetech coils & Wilwoods, with a rear floater in the works --> http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...1972-nova.html

    17. #637
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Thanks. The only area I wish I could've improved on was heel clearance around the gas pedal. Because I set the motor back as far as I did and how small the car is, I stole some real estate from this area. But, it doesnt effect heel toe, just comfort on the highway. I'm going to add cruise control at some point in time.

      Cheers,

      Wes

    18. #638
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Apex, NC
      Posts
      1,020
      Country Flag: United States
      Where are the pics of the motor in the car??????

    19. #639
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      Great progress

    20. #640
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      620
      Quote Originally Posted by Crestronwizard View Post
      Where are the pics of the motor in the car??????
      Should be coming this weekend. I plan to finish up the tunnel, which includes a hole for the shifter. Then I can make vroom vroom noised and mash gears...LOL

      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      Great progress
      Thanks but its too slow for me! I spent last night at the mill building some door pulls for a friend. He had a custom piece of furniture built and couldnt find pulls he liked so I offered to widdle them out of aluminum. Turned out really cool, they have the same aspect ratio and inset design as the door they're going on.

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