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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
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    Santee, CA
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    Default Battery in trunk

    I am laying out all of my wiring for relocating my battery to the trunk of my 69 Camaro convertible. I've read through most of the threads available on the topic and used them to come up with the diagram below. Just wanted to make sure that I'm applying what I have read correctly.

    I bought a Moroso 74102 battery disconnect switch (300Amp) and a Painless 30203 starter solenoid. After reviewing the layout, I realized that I really didn't need to run the starter through the switch since it would be disconnected by the starter solenoid. Any recommendations on a proper switch for this setup?

    As you can see from the diagram, I am running both the main power and the alternator charge wire through the disconnect (The alternator is a powermaster 140Amp). Is it correct to have the charge wire on a separate shutoff and to add the field wire to the main power? I want to make sure I prevent any backfeed issues.

    Also, is there any reason why I would need to run the starter wire through the fuse? I'm using an AAW Highway 22 kit.

    Any input would be appreciated! Thanks...Eric





  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    So. Cal.
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    Default

    Wow, alot of additional circuits too me. Maybe cause I use a one wire alt. My alt wire goes straight to the batt. No fuses.

    One other issue. I dont disconnect the alt with the main disconnect switch. My main disconnect switch only pulls the batt out of the loop. So the car can be running and I can throw the switch and the engine will still run. But this may not be sano for a race car. They may need the car to stop running when you throw the switch. And yours will do that. I only use my switch to disconnect the batt during long parked (months of no driving) situations. A complete disconnect.

    Ok, one more issue. With your field line still being powered even with the disconnect switch off I think you will still pull current.

    I guess it matters what the use of the switch is for? Racing or street.

    You know what. You did enlighten me though. I have not thought about it till now. But I am pulling all the starting current through my disconnect switch. It is rated at oh, Im not sure, a few hundred amps. And I dont have any starting issues. But it was kinda an eye opener for me. If I may be pulling several hundred amps through it I may re-think my wiring, if it becomes an issue. Thanks for that eye opener!!!! JR

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Manteca, CA
    Posts
    374

    Default

    I've never hooked up a disconnect switch but I though it was just run in line with the battery cable to the starter....

    But I guess if you do it that way with a race car it wont kill the engine etc....

    As for the AMP rating....if you look at the switch he's using its rated to 300 AMP continous....2000 AMP surge (which I would assume to mean the current draw on starting etc)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    54

    Default

    I did the same thing last summer to my 68 camaro. I used the Mad Enterprises Charging System. It worked out pretty darn slick. If you havent read through Marks elctrical tech portion of his web page , you should. Its pretty enlightining and will help you design the best possible system for your setup. Just curious, what are your running in your camaro? Are you in the middle of a rebuild or just upgradeing?

    JL

    http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
    1968 Camaro, 1995 LT1/4L60E, 3.50 Ford Nine Inch, 85MM Delphi MAF Sensor, Dynatech 1 3/4" Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2" exhaust with X-pipe crossover, Total Cost Involved Sub-frame, 4 Link and Frame connectors, Centerline Boulevard 17's, Nitto Invo's on the pavement

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
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    935
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    Default

    If you plan to race this I don't think it will pass tech. Most sanctioning bodies require the disconnect switch to kill the motor and all elect. The simple solution is to run the charging wire from the alt directly to the POS battery terminal. Connect your junction box feed to the battery side of the solonid. Then place your cut off switch between the battery and the solonoid. That way when the switch is thrown ALL power is cut to the car. Battery and alternator.

    At least this is what I have read on other threads. If I have this wrong I'm sure someone will correct me.
    67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 Johnny Winters TH400 74cc KRE d-port flowed @ 310 cfm heads piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.55 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s

    Honest dad that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Pgh, PA
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    2,436

    Default

    You're correct - and that's pretty much what I'm doing right now. 0/1 gauge from starter to maxi-fuse. Maxi-fuse to remote solenoid. Remote Solenoid to cut-off. Cut-off to Battery positive. 8 gauge from alternator to terminal on remote solenoid. Cut-off in specified location would kill all power.

    I'm thinking of not using the cut-off. Can't pass NHRA tech anyway due to vert and not having a cage.



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