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03-06-2005 #1
FINALLY started the 454 and i think the Ultradyne cam went flat!
Well after 2 years, my car is finally to the point of starting the motor. I made sure evertying was functional before actually starting it up. The front clip still needs to go on, and the brakes aren't finished yet but i started it today. Here is the scenerio, i have a 468 with an ultradyne 288/296 solid flat tappet with comp cams solid lifters. I pulled the inner valve springs out, ran a quart of GM EOS, and used a ton of cranes grey paste cam break in lube. THe first time i tried to start it i turned the electric pump on and the carb completely flooded and had a geyser coming out of the vent tube. It was a sticky needle and seat. Then it cranked and didn't fire, then i HATED to do this, but i cranked and cranked I know how to set a motor up and have done it a lot of times before, but this was a complete car build. Then after some cranking i came back today and found out i had some issues with the MSD system. I fixed the issues, and realized the oile smelled like gas, so i guess it flooded before and the oil mixed with the gas. SO i dumped the oil and filled it back up and put some more EOS in it, but i had already primed the motor with the gas in the oil and crnaked it some. So i fixed the oil and msd and had to crank more and more . I can't believe i had to crank this motor so much, i truly expected it to fire right away..... So finally i get it running, and it runs like a beast!....until i notice the passenger side valvce cover is ticking real loud. So i shut it down and check it out and one of the poly locks is super loose!!! SO i tighten it back up to spec hoping it was just a mishap. THen i go ahead and break the cam in some more. Well it still kinda ticks but is better, then i can't really say but i noticed the ticking again on teh same passenger side. Nothing is extremley loose but a few rocker arms have way too much slack in them. so i put a dial indicator on 2 of them and adjust it to zero lash and only get about 550 lift and 520 lift, and i am supposed to have 612 and 630. So i assume i have a super flat cam? possilby from the cranking and the gas in the oil. Tomorrow i will have to cut open the filter and check it out,, but i think my chances are grim. I took all of the precautions but i might be another failure. Its going to be a PITA to take it all apart, as everything is SUPER detailed and put togehter very nicely. Any suggestions, tips or help? thanks!
this is a awful feeling, but maybe i will have to go solid roller now?
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03-06-2005 #2You didn't set all your valves initially at zero lash did you? If you are tedious about keeping a clean engine compartment, why did you opt for a solid flat tappet cam? Periodic adjustments mean getting your detailed engine more dirty than would be needed if you built a solid roller instead-then again, those are harsh on valvesprings.....yeah, I'd go with a hydraulic roller next time IMO. -Jabin
Gmachinz Sales and Performance
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03-06-2005 #3If you forsee building many more engines, build yourself a "run-in stand" and be done with the mess you're about to have to deal with. It's so much easier to break a cam in, check for leaks, do the first oil change, and, yeah, put new cams in when you have it on a stand outside of the car.
Either that or a dyno...I wouldn't do it any other way.-Matt
Welders: The only people that think a co-worker catching on fire is funny.
03-06-2005 #4hydro rollers in a bbc suck. big time valve float. also a solid roller needs periodic valve adjustment just the same. And while i am at it, you got it wrong, solid rollers are hard on lifters. you need stiffer springs to control the valvetrain, so actually the spirngs are hard on the cam/lifter. And no i didn't set me lash at zero........
03-06-2005 #5p.s. no leaks!! I was really ready for this thing to fire at the tip of the key. once it ran, everything was 100% perfect....except for the cam thingy
03-06-2005 #6