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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Idaho Falls, Id
      Posts
      1,342

      paint removal questions

      well i did a search but there wasn't much info in the threads that came up. i was planning to buy a large soda blaster to strip my cars and use it to make money stripping cars and whatever else people would want blasted.

      well today i stumbled onto some threads on other forums that made me think soda blasting is a bad idea. they were all talking about how hard it is to get paint to stick after being soda blasted. i've never seen anyone's project update thread mention soda blasting. anyone have any input on that?

      what methods do you guys use? with soda blasting no longer a good option i'm left with sanding or chemical stripper. i've used the chemical stuff before and it worked great, but that was back in high school and i sold the car before i ever painted it so i don't know if there would've been some future problems. i know you have to be careful to keep it out of places where it could seep out later, but how do you clean it off or "neutralize" it after stripping? does anyone know? that was asked in the threads that came up in my search but no one ever answered that question.

      a couple of the build threads on here looked like the paint was just sanded off with a 90* die grinder. can those of you who just sand it off tell me what you use and why? i'm concerned with removing too much metal or warping it. thanks

      Traven


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Idaho Falls, Id
      Posts
      1,342
      anyone have any input for me? any thoughts on soda blasting? anyone know how to prep the metal after chemical stripping if i go that route?
      Traven

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      77
      Greetings TRaven!

      The concern I've had with soda blasting a car for paint removal is that the powder settles into every nook and cranny of a car body shell and is very difficult to remove - the same with sand or media blasting. Just when you think you've got the stuff completely removed by vacuuming and air blowing, then you're start priming, the powder/media/sand blows out of some crack/crevice to contaminate the surface. Then you've got to address the issue!

      I prefer to chemical strip using Klean Strip Aircraft Paint Stripper. There are quite a few other strippers on the market - this is the product the shops I've worked at over the years used because it works. I've tried the "organic" stuff but really didn't work very well. It took too many applications and still hadn't removed very much paint.

      I can only suggest that you talk to your local paint supplier and see what they carry, pick up the product sheet and read all the info. Do research on the 'net and stop by some body shops and inquire what they use to strip paint.

      Other alternatives are "3M clean and strip discs as well as coarse bristle discs".

      Good luck with your project - hope this helps!

      Alchemist

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Idaho Falls, Id
      Posts
      1,342
      thanks Alchemist, everything i read in the past about soda blasting made it sound like it was easier to remove soda, than it would be to remove sand after blasting. but recently i've been reading that its probably the most difficult to remove of all the blasting media. the other thing i was reading is that even after trying to remove the residue left by the soda people were still having problems with paint adhesion.

      i guess i'll go with a combination of aircraft stripper and sanding but i'm still not sure how to remove and residue left by the stripper. I'm sure there are instructions on the can but i'd rather hear what the people who use the stuff have to say about how to prep the metal.
      Traven

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,947
      Country Flag: United States
      POR 15 or Restomotive industries has a very user friendly stipper that works fairly well. I used it and liked the results because it left the primer and removed the paint unless you really let it soak. Leaving the primer gives you a base to start blocking and seeing the high an low spots. Make sure you get extra spray bottle pumps !!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Perth Western Australia
      Posts
      233
      Country Flag: Australia
      Hey T Raven

      Don't be put of by painters with bad prep blaming it on soda blasting, yes shore you need to wash the car down and when ready for painting Scotch pad the car over. I own a soda blasting company in Australia and strip about 3 cars per week and have never had a problem, it is like everything if you don't prep properly ready for paint you will have problems, there are no short cuts you still have to abrade the surface for good adhesion. Sorry for the long winded response but it really annoys me when people try to pass the blame for their lack of attention to detail.

      Greg

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Idaho Falls, Id
      Posts
      1,342
      thanks tonner, i guess i'll have to keep looking into soda blasting. i wanted to start a soda blasting business but the primary reason was to blast cars. but i changed my mind when i read all the negative things people were saying and stories of guys losing thousands of dollars to customers coming back when their paint came off
      Traven

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Perth Western Australia
      Posts
      233
      Country Flag: Australia
      T Raven

      Check out a operator in California called Anacapa Soda Blasting, The owner Manny is a really nice Guy I called in and seen him when I was in the states a couple of years ago, have a look on the web I know he has a site.

      Greg

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Galena, MD
      Posts
      47
      I have stripped several cars with chemical stripper. After stripping wipe metal with lacquar thinner and never had a problem after painting the car.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      368
      You might look into plastic media blasting. I know that DSE does this on their cars, and it is also widely used in the aircraft maintenance overhaul industry. I had my 67 Camaro, alkaline dipped and e-coated. Just hard to find the e-coating tanks that are large enough in the country to do it.

      Jeff

      http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      362
      I have found that the easiest way to do a good job in the home shop is do initially use spray stripper on the panel, one coat, to remove the clear and base. Then do the whole panel with the strip discs (3M or Eastwood sells a set up). This blasts the remaining primer, filler or surface rust right off and leaves nice clean sheet metal.
      If you don't get the clear off first it will gum up the discs.
      If you chemically strip only you will work way to hard and need many coats and still need to do some sanding in the end.
      Good luck!

    12. #12
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Posts
      36
      I restored a truck last year and used the sandblasting method. That worked just fine, but it does create a huge mess and the clean-up is problematic. It took me several weeks and attempts to remove "all" of the sand, but it does leave a nice clean surface to put your foundation on.

      This past year I repainted my nova using Aircraft stripper and the 3m stripping disks. This process was more time consuming than sand but personally I was much more satisfied with the results. I didn't have any serious residue issues - I just wiped the car down with wax and grease remover and applied my primer. I have had no adhesion problems whatsoever.

      I have never used soda blasting, but I know a few guys that have and they have been happy with the results. I have not heard of the adhesion problems you reference. I'm kinda inclined to agree with the dude from down under, sounds like guys making excuses for their lack of proper prep prior to laying down paint.

      Let's be honest, when a painter invests that much time and energy in putting down a paint job and the stuff peels off, the last person/thing in the world he wants to blame is himself. It's much easier to point the finger somewhere else.

      Just my $.02.

      J





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