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    Thread: Roof Patch

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2004
      Location
      NW Suburbs, Chicago
      Posts
      560

      Roof Patch

      Well the time has come to cut and cut and cut everything away...

      the rear half is straightforward, hopefully no surprises will come up. But, the previous owner cut a huge hole in the roof and had a sunroof in there. Which may have looked decent had he used a good sunroof and it didnt leak everywhere. But, the sunroof is out and im left with a huge hole. I was thinking of different ways to repair this and wanted some input or other options if you have any.

      First thing i thought was butt weld in a new peice, but im scared that it might warp real bad with the heat on the roof.

      Then i thought, maybe i can flange it and put a series of smaller welds in the flange, and if the flange warps it would be easier to skim over and make it straight.

      OR flanging it, and useing a bonding epoxy of some kind, similer to the type that they use on the Viper.



      any thoughts? suggestions? new ideas?


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA
      Posts
      516
      No different than a Quarter Panel ? ?... Spot weld to keep from warping and work your way around.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2003
      Location
      St. Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      988
      Country Flag: United States
      The problem with that is that unless it completely flat you may not be able to get the correct crown in it. Don't know what rig you have, but they make aftermarket skins for some roofs, you may want to look into that. I'd rather have a seam on the sails than in the middle somewhere.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Posts
      183
      I'd make a flanged patch panel cut from a junk yard roof (make sure to cut it several inches larger all around) of the same make/model, then trim it closer once you get home. Get the edge of the patch panel flanged to fit in from the bottom of your hole (that sounds sick) and then you can tack weld in from below and from above to decrease the risk is joint separation. TIG is the only way I would attempt something like this...
      2008 MazdaSpeed 3 GT daily driver
      301 WHP, many mods
      255/35/18 tires and 18x9 wheels to come

      No PT project yet :-(

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Boston MA
      Posts
      686
      1.5c:
      I would solicit as many opinions as you can about how to weld this patch. I'm comfortable with my TIG abilities but personally wouldn't TIG this patch. For me, the heat input of my TIG weld would be significantly greater that that of my MIG weld, ann that would be bad. Again, just my 1.5 cents.

      This post is of intrest to me because I've got some roof/ rear window patches to deal with sooner than later. Keep us updated.
      Jensen

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
      Posts
      11,967
      Country Flag: United States
      Like I said in the other post, we just went ahead and replaced the entire roof skin with a piece from Goodmark. It fit surprisingly good. It seems like getting the crown of the roof to look right when your done is going to be very time consuming. Then again I am only a mediocer welder at best ;)

      What car?
      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2003
      Location
      Lafayette, In.
      Posts
      940
      Quote Originally Posted by Steve1969LS1
      Like I said in the other post, we just went ahead and replaced the entire roof skin with a piece from Goodmark. It fit surprisingly good. It seems like getting the crown of the roof to look right when your done is going to be very time consuming. Then again I am only a mediocer welder at best ;)

      What car?
      I agree with steve. go with a whole new roofskin, thats the "only" way i'd do it.
      In process!
      1972 C10
      Roadster Shop Fast Track chassis
      LS376/525

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Suwanee, GA 30024
      Posts
      52
      I say replace the roof. That's what i'm doing with my 69's. Cut the roof and quarters, put the body on a cart and get it blasted. It might appear to be a lot of work, but knowing that you got it right the first time is better than some cheesy patch job that's gonna have a slab of bondo on it or rust comming back. Try to get the new Goodmark panels, they are thicker and close to NOS. Luckily they are right around the corner from me and I keep up with the new changes in production runs.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2004
      Location
      NW Suburbs, Chicago
      Posts
      560
      I had considered gettin a roof skin, and I get from the same company that supplys Goodmark....

      From what i understood doing a roof skin is really hard, the biggest problem being lining things up again and all the bracing you have to do. I havnt done any major body work but i have several people who will be helping me who were body guys for years before hand. I just didnt know what was all involved in doing a roof skin.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
      Posts
      11,967
      Country Flag: United States
      it seemed easier to me than doing a full quarter.. then again I just helped with the install
      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,070
      The tig will create more heat but leaves workable weld. Mig will get you in a mess. If you have to mig I would really take about five minutes between each 1" patch. Also use some heat sink. If your skills are up to it go with the roof. If not this would be a great spot for a lap joint and some structural adhesive. No warp and not a panel with much stress. Actually when I shaved the drip rails on my last Rambler project I used adhesive to re attach roof but I did stitch weld front and rear. Hasn't come off yet.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jan 2004
      Location
      NW Suburbs, Chicago
      Posts
      560
      I was going to remove the drip rails on mine as well... I figured id try the adhesive here first and see how it looks, if it turns out like garbage then ill get a roof skin. I figure it woudl be cheaper to do a patch than a roof... and i have acess to an english wheel so i can put the right curvature on it already.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,947
      Country Flag: United States

      To the moon !!!!

      This thread caught me at a moment when I was thinking about how nice the Moonnroof is in my Vibe in the spring and the fall !

      Then it came to me to want to say if a car is the right color and was done with a factory type power moonroof it would be really nice .

      I would go with the Goodmark panel if you go stock. Wasting a minutes worth of time trying to repair it would only take away from all of those more challenging parts you can make yourself that will set your car off to be different. A roof can only be a roof, unless it has a Moonroof !!!

      If I had a hole already in my car when I started it, I would have put in a moonroof just to make it easier . The rolled lip will be the challenging part. A full size aluminum or steel dolly would make the job pretty easy.

      Goodluck , Jim Nilsen

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jan 2004
      Location
      NW Suburbs, Chicago
      Posts
      560
      I had thought about putting in a moon roof in it again, but i really havnt looked THAT much at different ones that are availible... maybe ill look around before i decide to dump it RIGHT AWAY... It would be nice to have a nice power moon roof, I have one in my MX-6 and I love it... hmmmm we'll see

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
      Posts
      11,967
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      Well just as an FYI the whole replacement roof was less than $300.00 on sale.. I guess you have nothing to loose by trying to patch since you can always replace the roof.
      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jan 2004
      Location
      NW Suburbs, Chicago
      Posts
      560
      That was kind of my thought. If i decide to ditch the sunroof and the patch doesnt workout... the worst thing is that i lose some time and a few bucks in a sheet of metal. That will be probably one of the last things i worry about considering i have to put in new rear quarters, tail, and minitubs. And then align the front end. Lots of work ahead of me yet. But thanks for the input guys.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Beaufort , NC
      Posts
      1,849
      Country Flag: United States
      The main thing I would worry about with the patch is that after you have the car painted is that with paint shrinkage and temp changes you may be able to see it after a short time. A complete roof is best on a large sorta flat area that is so easy to see. Just my .02..........

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      resto mod

      if you glue the patch panel and mold itin, it will ghost line once out inthe sun for awhile, either take a chance and weld it or install a new roof, the glues are great on hidden seams but leave much to be desired by way of patch panels
      goodluck
      jake

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Moody, Texas
      Posts
      64
      I have done several 68-69 camaro roof panels(9-10). As mentioned earlier, they are not as hard as a full rear quarter in my opinion. Most people are just afraid of cutting the roof off their car.
      For installation I use a mig and have no problems with lining it all up(I usually work solo). I tried the patch method in the beginning, but the amount of time it took to get it right I could have done the roof panel twice.
      I did a junk yard complete roof(inner and outer, from the dash to the sail) one time and man what a pain in the azz that was.

      Just remember, a six pack will always make your body work look better!!

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jan 2004
      Location
      NW Suburbs, Chicago
      Posts
      560
      well, to do a roof, what kind of bracing would i need to put in? and where? my main concern is that when i cut the roof that things will just bend and not line up the way it should.

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