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    Results 61 to 80 of 146
    1. #61
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,108
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the photos! I was thinking of doing something similar, or I do have an old truck that I could strip down for a piece of the frame, then add legs and perhaps lay a pair of I beams or square tubes on top of them if it's not flat enough.
      David

      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.


    2. #62
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      Looks good Scottzilla. Did you go through Northern for the casters? Those roll nice.


      !!Off topic!! but did a guy named Steve get in touch with you yet? He bought my 69 Nova and he wants to do an LS/T56 swap but im swamped. He's in your area. BTW, hows business been?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

      https://www.pro-touring.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=4&dateline=1323422564
      Follow us on Facebook

    3. #63
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Location
      Houston, Tx
      Posts
      2,200
      Country Flag: United States
      this has helped enormously reading through it all...thanks to everybody who has contributed!
      Colin Russ

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      4
      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme
      Almost there.. there was minimal warping with this method, although there was a bit on the short overhanging end pieces. Will have to reverse this by some heat and force on the ends. Nothing major though. Had to brush up on my MIG skills as I have only been using TIG for while now. TIG would just make the warping much worse.

      The braces are thinner walled than the main pieces - just extra material I found sitting around. Should have this up and running under the car within the week.. can't wait. The Carr-Lane leveling feet (part CL-8-SLF) work perfect.



      Also set this up so I can put an 1" thick or so sheet of plywood in between the braces to drop the plumb bob on. A 4x4 sheet will fit exactly in between the two middle sections.

      I don't understand how TIG would make heat input worse than MIG????

      You have a foot pedal to control heat with TIG. Care to explain???

    5. #65
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Posts
      1,027
      with tig, you have constant heat going into the weldment, where with mig you cant stich weld it to keep heat to a smaller haz

    6. #66
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      4
      Well i guess i have to know what sort of TIG you would be using b/c what you said just doesn't make sense to me. Wether you MIG for 1in and then skip 2in weld 1in and keep repeating that pattern. Once the trigger is pushed your a Xamps. With TIG (I have a Miller Dynasty 300DX) you can set the pulse, background current, etc..etc. Heck at the very least you can rock the pedal.....

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Posts
      1,027
      yes tig weld is cooler, however mig done properly will have less of a heat affected zone then tig

    8. #68
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Posts
      26
      Posting these just to give ideas and make everyone sick...


      Rest of the shop pics can be found here: http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/sho...d.php?p=260219


      Chris
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      4
      Thanks for that man...................no really........................................than ks.

    10. #70
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Motorcity, Canada
      Posts
      292
      Finally.. a post with the chassis jig in action. Even painted it for you David . Thanks everyone for all your input! The car is just sitting on there on wood blocks and on rollers for now awaiting the body and suspension cradles. Likely time to start a progress post now that I am done this detour.


      Rear adjustable IRS cradle in progress:


      As for the note about TIG vs MIG - the heat affected zone is the key. Think about the speed in which you typically TIG a part vs MIG on the same part (TIG is slower at least when I am behind the torch). MIG is typically faster, meaning the heat transfer to surrounding areas is going to be less (via the pricipals of conduction). When building this jig, we definitely saw a noticable difference in part distortion when comparing TIG vs. MIG. The degree to which they are different will most likely vary with operator skill. As David called it, we spent a considerable amount of time with the torch attempting to get rid of the distortion on the parts after welding. While we are only talking mm here, it is still enough to throw the flat surface off when you are looking at a 12 ft long part.
      Craig
      1968 Torino GT 4.6L S/C T56 IRS x2
      www.twintorino.com

    11. #71
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,947
      Country Flag: United States
      Now that is a nice table, the paint really does make all of the difference when you look at the car. Seeing something new in the pic always gives a direction for your imagination to go. If it all looks like it needs attention the inspiration for others is not visible.

      It looks like you have the stance, now it's just keeping it without problems


    12. #72
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Ferndale, WA
      Posts
      766
      Country Flag: United States
      Ohhhh DAddy!
      Rest of the shop pics can be found here: http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/sho...d.php?p=260219


      Chris[/quote]
      72 Chevelle Done!

      67' Hell Camino- Under the knife

      Some day: Porsche GT3/ C6R inspired 69

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      so after welding the jig together, how do you determine if it's warped, where it's warped, and by how much? You have to measure from somewhere that's known to be true, correct? Thanks guys
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: United States
      I built one out of 4" ibeam basic 3 mid beams/2 side beams about 41"x11' .the mid beams are bolted/dpinned so you can move the ends in. I did dpin/bolt holes every 2".turned out great. have a solidworks model/ or pics if you are interested.

    15. #75
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Greenville, IL
      Posts
      262
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by STREET ROD
      I built one out of 4" ibeam basic 3 mid beams/2 side beams about 41"x11' .the mid beams are bolted/dpinned so you can move the ends in. I did dpin/bolt holes every 2".turned out great. have a solidworks model/ or pics if you are interested.
      Pics would be great.

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: United States
      I hope the pictures are far away enough to get a good idea of the jig
      I may take some more farther away.
      Attachment 25689

      Attachment 25690

      Attachment 25691

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Moore, Ok
      Posts
      103
      Dunno if this will help but here's a few pics of my table


    18. #78
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      4
      swwwweeeeeeettttt

    19. #79
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,108
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a question on table length.
      I can get a truck frame for free and am thinking of making a frame table out of it. It will be super heavy and a bit narrow but I have a forklift and can place square tube sections across it for more width. This thing is STOUT! allready has crossmembers riveted in and the frame is double thickness!!!

      I'm thinking that to do a Camaro you need 14' to 15' long? I can always cut some off the ends if it's too long.
      Thanks, David
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Last edited by David Pozzi; 10-08-2008 at 05:49 PM.
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Mar 2004
      Location
      Mid-Michigan
      Posts
      2,764
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by David Pozzi
      I have a question on table length.
      I can get a truck frame for free and am thinking of making a frame table out of it. It will be super heavy and a bit narrow but I have a forklift and can place square tube sections across it for more width. This thing is STOUT! allready has crossmembers riveted in and the frame is double thickness!!!

      I'm thinking that to do a Camaro you need 14' to 15' long? I can always cut some off the ends if it's too long.
      Thanks, David
      Actually you only "need" a foot or so longer then the wheelbase. As long as there is enough length to set up the tire/wheel combo you should be good.
      Mark
      Mark:
      "Bad Ast" Astro Van. Just because I did it... Doesn't mean it's possible...
      This my Bad Ast thread...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...roject-Faze-II
      This is my Fotki album...
      http://astroracer.fotki.com/

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