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    Page 13 of 14 FirstFirst ... 3 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 LastLast
    Results 241 to 260 of 261
    1. #241
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      1
      Quote Originally Posted by jerome View Post
      Getting closer on paint, has been pretty frustrating how slow the process is, but there's light at the end of the tunnel. Once paint is done, it will be re-assembly and interior. I'm eliminating the front wheel spacers and having longer lower control arms built. The upper control arms will need to be lengthened as well, but since they're the threaded SPC arms, I think I can just go with longer sleeves. Technology has come quite a ways since the engine was built, I'm also considering changing to Fitech or Holley sniper EFI, but may just run carb for a while. More focused on getting the project done than optimizing for now. Here's the latest pictures of paint - almost ready for basecoat:



      hi jerome,

      thanks for your help and advices, bro any updated pic of your project will be great and need to see how the beast looks after paint.

      regards

      amq

    2. #242
      Join Date
      Oct 2017
      Location
      Seattle, WA
      Posts
      2
      Country Flag: United States
      Any New Updates?
      Quote Originally Posted by jerome View Post
      Getting closer on paint, has been pretty frustrating how slow the process is, but there's light at the end of the tunnel. Once paint is done, it will be re-assembly and interior. I'm eliminating the front wheel spacers and having longer lower control arms built. The upper control arms will need to be lengthened as well, but since they're the threaded SPC arms, I think I can just go with longer sleeves. Technology has come quite a ways since the engine was built, I'm also considering changing to Fitech or Holley sniper EFI, but may just run carb for a while. More focused on getting the project done than optimizing for now. Here's the latest pictures of paint - almost ready for basecoat:




    3. #243
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      The cab looks good.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    4. #244
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      New York, NY
      Posts
      458
      Country Flag: United States
      Project stalled while waiting for paint. The painter fell into some bad health from not wearing eye protection and having VOCs go through his eyes. Among other issues with him, progress was extremely slow (and still is). The good news is that he did manage to get the cab, doors, and fenders painted right at the end of December.

      The Porsche Slate Grey paint code did not spray out quite right (I didn't get the details) but they found a very similar paint code that looked good, albeit from more mundane origins - Mitsubishi Dark Greenish Gray - which as far as I can tell from Google is for a 2008-2009 Mitsubishi Outlander.




      It has suprisingly few ingredients - a simple mix:



      After media blasting, there is DP90 epoxy paint (not sure how many coats), high build primer, glaze in spots, then urethane primer. On top of that is 3 coats of base and 4 coats of clear. There were a couple of runs and a little bit of orange peel, but it should all come out with wet sanding and buffing and be smooth as glass.

      The color is amazing in person - almost black in shadow and sort of a military drab green / gray in the light. Unfortunately, that doesn't quite come through in pictures, but here they are:








      Next step is to get the chassis powdercoated and start re-assembly. We need to cut a few holes out of the chassis boxing that was done in order to get a sandblasting nozzle inside to get the rust out and spray powder in. I'm hopeful to have it all back together for the summer driving season, but realistically based on past progress looking at a longer timeline.

    5. #245
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      2,787
      Country Flag: United States
      I am very familiar with that color and love it.

      The owner from Evoporust was considering dipping chassis and body's which could be an option for your frame. The other option would be do have it dipped and e-coated and then head over to powder.

      ps The painted panels look awesome !!!




      Quote Originally Posted by jerome View Post
      Project stalled while waiting for paint. The painter fell into some bad health from not wearing eye protection and having VOCs go through his eyes. Among other issues with him, progress was extremely slow (and still is). The good news is that he did manage to get the cab, doors, and fenders painted right at the end of December.

      The Porsche Slate Grey paint code did not spray out quite right (I didn't get the details) but they found a very similar paint code that looked good, albeit from more mundane origins - Mitsubishi Dark Greenish Gray - which as far as I can tell from Google is for a 2008-2009 Mitsubishi Outlander.




      It has suprisingly few ingredients - a simple mix:



      After media blasting, there is DP90 epoxy paint (not sure how many coats), high build primer, glaze in spots, then urethane primer. On top of that is 3 coats of base and 4 coats of clear. There were a couple of runs and a little bit of orange peel, but it should all come out with wet sanding and buffing and be smooth as glass.

      The color is amazing in person - almost black in shadow and sort of a military drab green / gray in the light. Unfortunately, that doesn't quite come through in pictures, but here they are:








      Next step is to get the chassis powdercoated and start re-assembly. We need to cut a few holes out of the chassis boxing that was done in order to get a sandblasting nozzle inside to get the rust out and spray powder in. I'm hopeful to have it all back together for the summer driving season, but realistically based on past progress looking at a longer timeline.
      marty-mj
      GarageScene.net High Speed Welding KDHotrods RecoveryRoomInteriors WegnerAutomotive Autometer Ride-Tech

    6. #246
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      The paint looks great, it must feel good to have that done.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    7. #247
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      NORWAY
      Posts
      8
      Country Flag: Norway
      im doing a corner eating s10 mysef yours looks badass :D

    8. #248
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      New York, NY
      Posts
      458
      Country Flag: United States
      Bed and tailgate were finally painted.





      The tailgate was bowed almost 1" in the middle and it was hitting one bedside 1/4" before the other, but they were able to bend it back into shape with a porta power.


      The hood is the only thing left that needs to be painted. The hood inner structure was cut out to accommodate the air filter and a big hole was cut out to install a vent to extract heat and air on the backside of the radiator. It will need additional bracing before final paint, and we can only figure out the bracing once the hood is mounted on the fenders.

      The inside of the cab and the roll bar were painted satin black



      The chassis is now back from powdercoating.



      Looking forward to hopefully being able to accelerate re-assembly. The remaining major fabrication work is to make longer lower and upper control arms to push the spindle out further and eliminate the wheel spacer.

      I am also considering swapping the carb out for a fuel injection throttle body for reliability. The fuel system can already handle EFI, I would just need a system like the Holley Sniper or FITech EFI 4. I haven't done a ton of reading yet but it seems like the MSD billet HEI distributor I have might be able to be used if I want it to control timing as well.

      I'm interested in other advantages of EFI that the simpler $1,000 systems like this wouldn't be able to get me though. Things like traction control (C5 front wheel hubs and Ford 8.8 rearend have ABS sensors already), rev limiters (launch, burnout, redline, no-lift shifting), flex fuel sensor, pwm fuel pump and cooling fan control, datalogging, digital dash, etc. But then to get those features, which I may or may not ever actually wire into the ECU, I would need a Holley Terminator throttle body at $950, a Megasquirt 3 Pro at $1,500 and a whole lot more time and labor to install the ECU. At those sorts of numbers, I start thinking about whether it's all a waste if I end up with an LS swap anyways at some point.

      I didn't consider port fuel injection mostly because that would involve changing the intake and I'm not ready at this point to ditch the cowl induction and air filter box I've already got:



      Would be great to hear opinions on carb v. $1,000 throttle body fuel injection v. full standalone ECU and throttle body. I think the most valuable feature would probably be traction control given how light the rearend will be.

      Jerome


    9. #249
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Pittsburgh, PA
      Posts
      132
      Subscribed. Truck looks insane. Love the lengths you've gone to with the build. Keep it up, and keep us updated!

    10. #250
      Join Date
      Aug 2018
      Posts
      1
      im in the middle of adding a/c to my s10 i see that you relocated your a/c condenser to the front of the core how did you get the hood hatch to bolt up?? did you cut it? have any pics of it?

    11. #251
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      New York, NY
      Posts
      458
      Country Flag: United States
      s10mike - i know I already replied by PM but for anyone else wondering, we just notched the factory bracket and remade part of it with a flat strap to lay right on the condenser, you can see it in the pic below



      Re-assembly is slow, but it's nice to see it starting to come back together




      We tried lengthening the lower control arms but ran into clearance issues, so those will need to be re-made in a different shape. The wheel hits the control arm at a pretty steering angle. In the picture above, the wheel is turned as much as it will go. In the picture below, you can see the contact



      We got longer adjusting sleeves for the upper control arms to lengthen them but those too had a clearance problem



      The solution was to cut the welded clevis off the ball joint plate and re-weld it more in the center of the plate (top before, bottom after)


    12. #252
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Necro bump, but did this ever get finished?

      Jay

    13. #253
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      New York, NY
      Posts
      458
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
      Necro bump, but did this ever get finished?

      Jay
      The project continues on but progress is pretty slow.

      U-pol raptor liner sprayed in the bed



      Front fenders mounted


      Tailgate mounted



      Work remaining:
      Wiring and miscellaneous interior fabrication
      Mount grill, air dam and splitter
      Front brake cooling - backing plates, hose routing, ducts in air dam
      Install hood, reinforce structure, prep and paint
      Interior upholstery
      Windshield (glass) and rear window (lexan)
      Bed cover

    14. #254
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the update. Wasn't sure if you maybe had it on other forums, and forgot this one or if it just slowed down. I'm building an S10 of my own, so this is a thread I like to follow.

      Jay

    15. #255
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      2,787
      Country Flag: United States
      I am happy you are still working on the truck and the good news is your list is getting smaller and smaller.

      My goal on the 70 is to try to go out to the garage every day and just do a little something and it actually works.

      mj

      Quote Originally Posted by jerome View Post
      The project continues on but progress is pretty slow.




      Work remaining:
      Wiring and miscellaneous interior fabrication
      Mount grill, air dam and splitter
      Front brake cooling - backing plates, hose routing, ducts in air dam
      Install hood, reinforce structure, prep and paint
      Interior upholstery
      Windshield (glass) and rear window (lexan)
      Bed cover
      marty-mj
      GarageScene.net High Speed Welding KDHotrods RecoveryRoomInteriors WegnerAutomotive Autometer Ride-Tech

    16. #256
      Join Date
      May 2015
      Location
      NW Georgia
      Posts
      6
      Country Flag: United States
      Love the build so far. Any more updates ? Going to have to steal that color for the two-tone on my Jimmy. Should go great with White.
      Name:  Jimmy GT Concept.jpg
Views: 1360
Size:  18.6 KB
      Kirk
      "North of Mason, South of Dixon, 2nd star to the right"

    17. #257
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      nw phx
      Posts
      178
      lookin great!!
      ...life is too short, live for today, tomorrow isn't guaranteed

    18. #258
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      453
      Country Flag: United States
      Are the upper arms hitting because the suspension is drooping? Could that be a non-issue at ride height / normal suspension travel?
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    19. #259
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      nw phx
      Posts
      178
      dang nice, never seen the bedliner sprayed so smooth before.
      ...life is too short, live for today, tomorrow isn't guaranteed

    20. #260
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      173
      You can also look into a multiport throttle body setup using a standard style is brake manifold. Look at the Edelbrock systems that come as a turn key package. Also Holley sells the intake manifolds with bungs already drilled and tapped to accept I Hector's in each intake runner. The throttle body only flows air no fuel. The main benefit over the sniper style system is that the fuel is injected into each intake runner individually just before the intake valves / combustion chamber so you get a uniform amount of fuel in each cylinder.

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