64 Studebaker Lark Daytona

[PhillipM]

That upper bracket will be more than strong enough. Those things can put up to some ridiculous amounts of abuse and it is over engineered for your application which is a good thing here. That upper will more than likely only see 2-3000 pounds of force be that in tension (acceleration) or compression (braking). If the geometry is good, burn it into place and move on. The only thing I see that alarms me about those pics is the amount of threads showing on the rod ends. How much is in the tube adapters? Are you planning to cut another longer piece of tube for that link?

Steve, I think I missed that when I was tacking it up there. I need to cut it off to drill the rest of the holes to a larger size so before I put it back on the frame rail I will get out the jam nuts and make sure it is in as far as possible. I'm hoping to get a few minutes of work on it tonight

[Motorcitydak]

Good to hear, I really like this build. You are doing a great job here!

[PhillipM]

The other evening I was able to work on the 3rd link mount a little more, and for fun and something new to look at for a bit I decided to work on the cage a little more. Below are a couple photos..

[LT1Nova]

Nice tight cage work.

[PhillipM]

Thanks! Putting the bars in is one thing.. Fitting the dash afterwards is another feat all together. We'll see how it goes.

[454bug]

I'm glad to see you're back on the car!

[Bryce]

nice work. I wish I had a tube bender!

[PhillipM]

Bryce,

JD2 Model 3... they really aren't that expensive in the scheme of tools.

And now for a couple more tubes.











Sorry about the shotty photos.. Forgot my camera at home and had to pull out the old crackberry.

[PhillipM]

I'm glad to see you're back on the car!

Thanks Ray! You know how it goes. Sometimes seems like you have a million other things that are getting in the way.. Thanks for following!

[RS_Customs]

Bryce,

JD2 Model 3... they really aren't that expensive in the scheme of tools.

And know for a couple more tubes.

Sorry about the shotty photos.. Forgot my camera at home and had to pull out the old crackberry.

Ya they are great benders! I have the model 3 also, and David has the model 4.

Car is looking good!

Robert

[PhillipM]

Trying to decide what size tube to run behind the dash.. Only specs I could find were NHRA and they call for at least 1.25 .120 DOM. Is that enough? Just don't think I have enough space to put a 1.75" tube back there..

Also, as you can see the main hoop in this car is set back. That is because of my height and desire not to hit my head on it. It is barely within SCCA spec for distance.. But because it is back so far I'm thinking I would like to put an X below the roof. What are thoughts on that?

[63Duece]

i just went through ur whole thread.....wowawewuh!!! this is awesome!!!!
great car!
great work!
GL with the rest of ur build!!!

[absintheisfun]

Glad to see this one back on track. I've been missing the updates.

[PhillipM]

Thanks for the compliments guys!

So I'm working on fitting the dash to the down tubes. We had planned on Just Dashes refinishing the dash in the car but I'm wondering how I can tell them where the tubes will be. As you can see i opened up the hole on the drivers side too much and also pieces of the foam are breaking off. Maybe some spray foam just so they know the shape?

[coolwelder62]

This is an awesome build.Great fab, work.Can't wait to see more.Scott M.

[PhillipM]

Spoke with Just Dashs today. I think we've come up with a solution for the dash... Will show you guys more when I get a chance to start on that. Thanks for hanging in there. I am really hoping to start having some front suspension parts soon!! Fingers crossed!

[PhillipM]

Okay guys, if you have been following our build you know that we have been really working to try and use the LS7 manifolds and mid-pipes. Well, I have began mocking up the steering and Houston... we have a problem.





As you can see the steering shaft runs right into the manifold!!! Such a bummer. If you guys have any ideas here that would be awesome! My Dad and I stared at this thing and after consulting with Bart on the phone the answer was to grab a pair of LS swap headers from Stainless works originally meant for a first gen Camaro. This particular set was originally meant for a car with a factory steering box but I think they will work well and provide plenty of room for the steering shaft as well as a motor mount.













As you can see I'm waiting on my bushings to fully mount the rack and I'm pretty sure that I need to lift the front of the engine about 1/2" to clear the rack. That should be easy enough though.

As for motor mounts I'm now thinking of running these kits together. The first one takes it to a standard small block urethane busing and the second one takes it to the frame





That second photo is kinda crapy but here is the link to the Welder Series site with the product.. https://www.welderseries.com/blog/on...ber-insulated/

If you guys have seen any other universal mounts for LS motors that you have been happy with or just look like they would be sturdy and well constructed let me know! Thanks!

[PhillipM]

Worked on a few things tonight.. I stopped and picked up the bushings and tubing to install the rack. Everything looks like it should so that was nice.



I also decided to change out the lower coil-over mounts on the rear to get it into double shear.. So far it doesn't look that nice but this is the best I could come up with. Any one have any cleaner ideas??



Scary but the 1/2" bolt that was in there was already bent and we hadn't even put the car on the ground yet.. Crazy.

[preston]

Its always been a tossup to me whether its better to put those bolts in double shear or keep them close to the bracket (always seems like putting it in double shear significantly increases the distance and therefore the leverage of the lower mount).
I don't know what your bracket looked like before but if they're built right the single shear is a non issue as the shock bearing butts right up against the structure of the bracket and the bolt has a ton of support. I always felt like a 1/2" bolt wasn't strong enough but when you look up the shear strength of a grade 8 1/2" bolt its pretty significant.

[PhillipM]

Thanks for the insight.. I hear you on the distance between the mounts but I think I would still feel more comfortable if it were in double shear. I don't know. Maybe I'm worrying about it too much. Here is a link to what it looked like before..

https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...mount-thoughts