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    Thread: Gas tank fab...

    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,603
      Country Flag: United States
      Mathius,

      Yes, I drive my car on the street all the time. In fact, that's the only place I have driven it. It's tagged, titled, and insured here in Florida.

      Correct about the fuel sender. It bolts in place. I welded a .25" aluminum plate to the underside of the sheet, then drilled and tapped it.

      jp

      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Posts
      543
      John,

      Recently my buddy bought a good sized mig welder with a spool gun. I realize TIG is the weapon of choice for aluminum, but I thought I might try an aluminum fuel tank if I can get some measurements off my current stock tank.

      How did you fabricate the fittings on your aluminum tank? Did you thread the aluminum?

      My concern is that aluminum threads are a bit soft and I don't want the threads to gaul, or leak.

      Mathius

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      polk county,FL
      Posts
      163
      I'm not sure i would use a spool gun for a gas tank.Unless you really know how to weld with one, they can be very inconsistant,especially on thinner materials.I would surely recommend you TIG it.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,603
      Country Flag: United States
      Mathius,

      I've never used a spool gun (or MIG-welded aluminum in any way), so I can't comment. I don't know.

      For fittings, I bought weld-on AN bungs. I used male bungs, but would probably use female next time. I think they would be easier to weld in place.

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Posts
      543
      Quote Originally Posted by 80proZ
      I'm not sure i would use a spool gun for a gas tank.Unless you really know how to weld with one, they can be very inconsistant,especially on thinner materials.I would surely recommend you TIG it.
      Well I can't afford a TIG welder, and I didn't spend all kinds of money on school to learn how to weld to be afraid of it.

      There's nothing magical about a TIG welder, it doesn't make a better weld. It just gives you a lot more control.

      As long as I pressure test it, it should be fine, and I'll be able to see if I got penetration inside and out until I weld on the last panel so... Not a big deal.

      Mathius

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,097
      Quote Originally Posted by 80proZ
      I would surely recommend you TIG it.
      Oh boy! Here we go again.
      The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Have a look here: http://www.iimuchfabrication.com/Tanks/

      Hope it's useful.

      jp
      About 3 years ago I stumbled across your page for fabricating your fuel tank. I bookmarked the page and then a short time later lost the bookmark in a hard drive crash. I've been searching since for your page and couldn't remember where I linked from. I stumbled onto this forum today linked from a thread on stangnet. I'm into fabricating what I can and was browsing this section of the forums and can't believe I stumbled into it again. How strange is that?
      Roger

      69 Mustang coupe, under construction
      2011 Mustang - DD
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ang-SuperCoupe

      Freedom Of Speed!




    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,603
      Country Flag: United States
      Way cool. And for an even stranger twist, I used to live in Dayton.

      Glad you find it useful.

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Posts
      543
      John. You guys have any suggestions on mounting one? I don't want it IN the trunk like yours, I'm thinking I want to keep it in the stock location.

      If I use the stock mounting straps I would probably have to make channels for the straps so there was no risk of the tank moving side to side, and that's extra fabrication.

      I thought about just putting mounting tabs and mounting it above some bracing (square tubing, angle, c channel, etc. mounted to the frame) but that would almost certainly involve running bolts that I'd have to reach up over the tank and frame to bolt in place. I'm not sure how easy that would be. When I fab something, I like to make it as easy as possible to function and install.

      There are obviously ways to do this. I'm looking for the easiest possible suggestions.

      Mathius

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      You could weld nuts to your framing. Then bolt your straps in place. Or reverse it with bolts welded in place.
      Roger

      69 Mustang coupe, under construction
      2011 Mustang - DD
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ang-SuperCoupe

      Freedom Of Speed!




    11. #31
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Southern Louisiana
      Posts
      376
      Or, you could just bead roll some channels into the tank itself. Don't forget to put rubber between the tank and the straps.

      Kevin

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      west michigan
      Posts
      513
      Country Flag: United States
      this is an excelent thread. I have had some of the same questions brewing in my head. alot of great info.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Posts
      543
      Quote Originally Posted by gt1guy
      Or, you could just bead roll some channels into the tank itself. Don't forget to put rubber between the tank and the straps.

      Kevin
      I don't have a bead roller, that's why I'm trying to avoid the extra fabrication. The rubber idea seems ok. Probably harder to position everything when mounting. Would have to have a friend help I think.

      Any idea where you can just purchase a sheet of rubber though? I have a tool box I need to mount in the bed of my truck and I don't want to mess up my bed rails, so I'm looking for rubber for that application as well.

      Welding nuts or bolts to the frame is ok I guess. It's just that if something happens to the threads, I'd have to cut them out and fabricate something new. I live in the rust belt. But I may have to go that way anyhow.

      Mathius

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,603
      Country Flag: United States
      You might consider rivet-nuts (an easy way to put threads into sheetmetal). Have a look at McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com). They've got a complete selection, and you can find rubber sheets there too.
      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    15. #35
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Posts
      136
      Do home made tanks have to be certified? I read some where abpout a series of tests a tank has to go through. ???

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,603
      Country Flag: United States
      Certified? For what? I'm sure a racing body has to have some certification. For street use ... whatever your local state requires for registration.

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    17. #37
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Posts
      136
      I remember reading that a tank has to be filled to capacity and dropped from a certain distance and not leak or not leak more than a specified amount. I honestly cant remeber where i read that. I'm thinking of making trying my skill at making an aux tank for my truck and I have heard that "test" mentioned before by different people. I like how you did the tube structure and will be doing the same idea. I'm in tampa, so what ever Fl needs.

    18. #38
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Posts
      136
      Found it:

      (e)(1) Drop test —
      (e)(1)(i) Procedure. Fill the tank with a quantity of water having a weight equal to the weight of the maximum fuel load of the tank and drop the tank 30 feet onto an unyielding surface so that it lands squarely on one corner.
      (e)(1)(ii) Required performance. Neither the tank nor any fitting may leak more than a total of 1 ounce by weight of water per minute.

      http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regul...section=393.67

      However after skimming it, it seems that it only applies to commercial vehicles. So we should be in the clear.

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