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Thread: Gas tank fab...

  1. #1
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    Default Gas tank fab...

    Anyone fabbing their own stainless gas tank? What are you using for the filler lip, and for the place where the fuel sender goes. I can fab the tank fairly easily and weld it up, but I don't know about those parts.

    Does anyone sell these parts for weld-in?



    I thought about just reusing those parts off the stock tank, it IS possible to bond stainless to regular steel using the correct alloy wire (I'd have to look it up, but I think E308 stainless works best). But then I'd loose the corrosion benefits of having the stainless tank.


    Mathius


  2. #2
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    Just build it out of steel than have it powder coated. Than you can use your old parts from your old tank.
    Rick

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadRS69
    Just build it out of steel than have it powder coated. Than you can use your old parts from your old tank.
    Well, like I said, I'd loose the corrosion benefits of using stainless. Powdercoat would help, but a gas tank can still rust from the inside out, and you can't powdercoat the inside. Could seal it I suppose, but that's never easy to tell how well it coated.

    Also, another concern is cutting up the old tank because it'll be a very touchy thing to make sure all the gas fumes are out of it.

    Mathius

  4. #4
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    I've made tanks in stainless and aluminum.

    I used aftermarket sending units (Auto Meter), and standard race style filler openings.

    jp
    John Parsons



    II Much Fabrication's Blog -- New products, Fabrication sequences, etc.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj
    I've made tanks in stainless and aluminum.

    I used aftermarket sending units (Auto Meter), and standard race style filler openings.

    jp
    John, do you know if the autometer sending unit will hook up to a stock gauge? Not sure what I'm doing with the dash yet.

    Also, what do you mean by racing style filler openings? Can you post a link?

    Thanks,
    Mathius

  6. #6
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    Yes, AutoMeter sending units will work with most factory gauges. Their tech support can get you set up.

    Try http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

    jp
    John Parsons



    II Much Fabrication's Blog -- New products, Fabrication sequences, etc.

  7. #7
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    I used one of these on my last fuel cell. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
    But if your building a tank to go in the stock location you can just weld on a piece of stainless tubing and run a gasoline safe hose.
    Any of the 0-90 ohm AutoMeter sending units will be compatible with your GM gauges. (if that is what you have)
    68 Camaro - never to be finished
    06 Silverado - Forged 370, L92 Heads, big cam, 4l80e ect. eventual donor for the above
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmB2y7uX38I

  8. #8
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    a good stainless to mild rod is 309.

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    What recommendations on gauge for stainless and aluminum and grade.
    Matt


    Current project: " Chain Reaction "

    A.K.A. " BIG " by wife, biatch in garage.

    1969 RS Camaro L92 T56 Quadra-link, CW sub, Ford 9" a progressive build.

    Ex track car: 1995 Camaro LS1 T56

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bow Tie 67
    What recommendations on gauge for stainless and aluminum and grade.
    18 gauge is probably ok for stainless I'm guessing, 16 would be better.

    I'm guessing aluminum should be somewhere in the 12-14 range.

    Mathius

  11. #11
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    Stainless I wouldnt do anything under 16 ga. (.0625) 304

    The last aluminum cell I built was 11ga (.090) 3003
    68 Camaro - never to be finished
    06 Silverado - Forged 370, L92 Heads, big cam, 4l80e ect. eventual donor for the above
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmB2y7uX38I

  12. #12
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    I also plan on fabbing my own fuel tank. Mine will go in the stock location. It will be an internal baffle design with a sump in the bottom of it. I planned on ordering a sending unit from Jegs or Summit, but have yet to do so. Mine will be made of 16 ga. 304ss. I work at a sheetmetal fab shop, so all I have to do is take some final measurements and go to work. I figure about a week worth of lunchbreaks and I'll be good to go.

    309L is the proper rod for welding stainless to carbon steel, Other types can be used but you run the risk of the weld cracking. If you use stainless I would rec. using 308 filler rod, don't just fuse it like a popular manufacturer does. It may work but adding filler rod makes for a much stronger weld, and a fuel tank is not an area I am willing to take a risk.

    Chris

  13. #13
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    My aluminum tanks are made with .060 5052 but with tubular frames. My stainless tanks are 18g (.049) but with load-bearing baffling.

    jp
    John Parsons



    II Much Fabrication's Blog -- New products, Fabrication sequences, etc.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for all the help guys. JP do you know how heavy your aluminum tank was when completed?
    Matt


    Current project: " Chain Reaction "

    A.K.A. " BIG " by wife, biatch in garage.

    1969 RS Camaro L92 T56 Quadra-link, CW sub, Ford 9" a progressive build.

    Ex track car: 1995 Camaro LS1 T56

  15. #15
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    JP do you know how heavy your aluminum tank was when completed?
    No, other than to say it was pretty light, which means nothing. It's got 15 gallons of 93 octane in it right now, so it's a bit heavier now.

    jp
    John Parsons



    II Much Fabrication's Blog -- New products, Fabrication sequences, etc.

  16. #16
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    parsonsj,
    Not trying to hijack, but I am looking for some ideas on the baffling you do. I have a pretty good idea of what I think it should look like, but would appreciate some design input. Also the sump. I probably will use an external electric fuel pump, so I believe this is the way to go
    Chris

  17. #17
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    18ga ss weighs 2.1lbs per sq ft
    16ga ss weighs 2.625lbs per sq ft
    can't find my aluminum chart but if memory serves correctly I think it is 60% of the weight of ss
    My personal opinion, if I were to use al. I would use .090
    Chris

  18. #18
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    I am looking for some ideas on the baffling you do
    Have a look here: http://www.iimuchfabrication.com/Tanks/

    Hope it's useful.

    jp
    John Parsons



    II Much Fabrication's Blog -- New products, Fabrication sequences, etc.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj
    Have a look here: http://www.iimuchfabrication.com/Tanks/

    Hope it's useful.

    jp



    WOW!!! that looks sweet. I will need something like hat for my falcon
    1973 C10,400sbc, Baer Brakes, 4 link,TOYO tires
    2010 Charger RT
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    Joe

  20. #20
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    John,

    That link was very inspiring and should be helpful when I get to my own project. The only thing I want to do different is I don't want the filler in the trunk. But you seem to have a full firewall in yours. Is your car still streetable?

    The smaller plate near the filler neck is the aftermarket fuel sender you were talking about, yes? Did it rivet in place?

    Mathius

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