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    Results 1 to 20 of 20
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63

      68 Camaro/Wayne Due Frame/Milodon Oil Pan/BBC Will not fit

      I hope this is the right forum for this post.

      I do not have a Standard Big Block Oil Pan to check but the Milodon Oil Pan is approx. 4" tall from the Block to the bottom of the pan where it hits the power rack and pinion steering gear. Does anyone know what the stock pan height is? It looks like I need another inch or so to make it all fit or something else is very wrong... Any ideas? I am dead in the water...

      Here are some pics I have just taken of the frame/motor/R&P:

      Left Side

      http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1617/1030674jv5.jpg

      Right Side

      http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1341/1030675jl6.jpg

      Overall Pic. Yeah, the Transmission crossmember needs trimmed as well, about 3/16" to wide...

      http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1618/1030683kh1.jpg

      http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/4354/1030676bl7.jpg

    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      did you buy that "due" frame from ebay?

      you can clearance the pan to fit it.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      Thanks for the reply.

      No, I bought the frame direct from Wayne Due. I was not aware that he sold them on ebay.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      sorry, fixed. well not beat to fit but yes massage to fit. I'd cut and weld a notch into it. can you get us a pictures with it down lower till it touches the rack?

      like this but engine lower. http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1341/1030675jl6.jpg
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      Sure, here is one with the motor in place and the bolt on the right "made" I am pushing up on the R&P. Tighter than I should probably.

      http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/3420/1030680bp4.jpg

      Here is a pic of how far off the left bolt is with the same pressure up on the R&P with the right bolt made.

      http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/1191/1030677up5.jpg

      In these pictures, the transmission is mounted sitting on the crossmember to make sure the angle of the motor is correct, as far as with the frame itself.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      so do you think a 1/2"- 1" might make it work?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      I would say 3/4" min. That may be to close but an inch would probably do it. Any ideas?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      Does Milodon make a shallower pan that still has the large sump in the rear ?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      Quote Originally Posted by Charley Lillard
      Does Milodon make a shallower pan that still has the large sump in the rear ?
      Not that I know of. I was told that the pan I have is the same up front as the stock, so it seems the pan is not the problem.

      I tried to locate taller motor mounts and did not find any. That may have turned into more problems down the road when I mounted the frame back to the body.

      It looks like cutting the pan may be the only way. I am waiting to get a reply from WD though before I cut anything up.

      Anyone here done this yet? How much room do I have to work with before I restrict to much in the way of oil flow or get into the way of the crank? I am not removing the pan to check until I know I have no other option. I am hoping I have something put together wrong but I dont see how I could...

      Thanks again guys for the replies and if you think of anything else, please let me know.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      im kinda curious if WD set this frame up for a small block?? Not sure about this set up.

      3/4" can be made up in pan mods. does this pan feature a windage screen?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      When I ordered the frame I specified Big Block and Wayne said that the BB and SB frames are the same.

      Yes, there is a windage screen.

      Nothing can be easy can it?

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      What do you guys think about taking a piece of 1"x3"x(the proper length) bar stock and bolting it to the existing two holes - have two holes drilled approx. 1.5" in the bar stock below the two original holes. Essentially moving the R&P one inch out and 1.5" down? I have a new ididit steering column to put in as well. Notching the oil pan is still an option but this may be cleaner and certainly easier for me. And I even have some of the red paint left for the bar stock if it works.

      http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/8653/1030689iv3.jpg

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Torrington Ct
      Posts
      25
      Did that rack come with the kit ?

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      Quote Originally Posted by FabUThis
      Did that rack come with the kit ?
      Yes, it did.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      you'll play havok with bump steer...



      Nothing can be easy can it?
      yes, you can modify the pan. Not too difficult to do. Where are you?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      Bump steer is no good...

      I am in Indiana. I guess I am back to modifying the pan...

      Wayne replied to my email. His thoughts were modify the pan or raise the motor with the pan being the better option... He said he did not know what went wrong on the frame.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      Josh I have a C4 wayne Due sub and I origionally had set a big block in it..'
      It did rub the rack as well... Very lightly though..
      I would NOT and I repete NOT move the rack.. Wayne spent a lot of time trying to remove all bump steer from his systems and moving the rack will screw that up. In actuallity the rack needs to move up more not down... He did have to compromise it a little to fit the engine so far forwards..
      When I spoke with wayne back when, he stated to me that there is about 1/8" bumpsteer throughout the entire suspension travel..
      I would recomend you move the engine back a smidge or modify the pan.

      If you dont have a stroker in it you should have room to clearance the pan...
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      Madspeed,

      Thanks for the reply. I do not have a stroker so I will be doing the pan mod this weekend. If the rub was light, I would prob just cheat the motor up but I need way to much room. Do you have any pics of you unit that you would care to share?

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      63
      I chickened out on cutting the pan. I was not worried about the leaks (I am a certified welder) but it would get ugly and take up more time... I think what I ended up doing looks pretty good... sorta..... Here are pics of the fix:

      http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9884/1030692me8.jpg

      http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6916/1030693wr7.jpg

      Here are a few general picks I took before I came in tonight that I thought I would share of the project.

      http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9461/1030694tx1.jpg

      http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1994/1030700ay6.jpg

      http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/3922/1030703pb2.jpg

      http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/7882/1030704cc4.jpg



      Thanks again everyone for helping me figure this thing out!

    20. #20
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      Looks excellent, can't beat that... nevermind. Just make sure you didn't loosen the windage tray and push it into the crank. great progress.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

      https://www.pro-touring.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=4&dateline=1323422564
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