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  1. #1
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    Aug 2005
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    Default 68 Camaro/Wayne Due Frame/Milodon Oil Pan/BBC Will not fit

    I hope this is the right forum for this post.

    I do not have a Standard Big Block Oil Pan to check but the Milodon Oil Pan is approx. 4" tall from the Block to the bottom of the pan where it hits the power rack and pinion steering gear. Does anyone know what the stock pan height is? It looks like I need another inch or so to make it all fit or something else is very wrong... Any ideas? I am dead in the water...

    Here are some pics I have just taken of the frame/motor/R&P:

    Left Side

    http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1617/1030674jv5.jpg

    Right Side

    http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1341/1030675jl6.jpg



    Overall Pic. Yeah, the Transmission crossmember needs trimmed as well, about 3/16" to wide...

    http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1618/1030683kh1.jpg

    http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/4354/1030676bl7.jpg


  2. #2
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    did you buy that "due" frame from ebay?

    you can clearance the pan to fit it.
    MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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  3. #3
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    Aug 2005
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    Default

    Thanks for the reply.

    No, I bought the frame direct from Wayne Due. I was not aware that he sold them on ebay.

  4. #4
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    sorry, fixed. well not beat to fit but yes massage to fit. I'd cut and weld a notch into it. can you get us a pictures with it down lower till it touches the rack?

    like this but engine lower. http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1341/1030675jl6.jpg
    MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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  5. #5
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    Aug 2005
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    Default

    Sure, here is one with the motor in place and the bolt on the right "made" I am pushing up on the R&P. Tighter than I should probably.

    http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/3420/1030680bp4.jpg

    Here is a pic of how far off the left bolt is with the same pressure up on the R&P with the right bolt made.

    http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/1191/1030677up5.jpg

    In these pictures, the transmission is mounted sitting on the crossmember to make sure the angle of the motor is correct, as far as with the frame itself.

  6. #6
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    so do you think a 1/2"- 1" might make it work?
    MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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  7. #7
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    Default

    I would say 3/4" min. That may be to close but an inch would probably do it. Any ideas?

  8. #8
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    Does Milodon make a shallower pan that still has the large sump in the rear ?

  9. #9
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    Aug 2005
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    63

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charley Lillard
    Does Milodon make a shallower pan that still has the large sump in the rear ?
    Not that I know of. I was told that the pan I have is the same up front as the stock, so it seems the pan is not the problem.

    I tried to locate taller motor mounts and did not find any. That may have turned into more problems down the road when I mounted the frame back to the body.

    It looks like cutting the pan may be the only way. I am waiting to get a reply from WD though before I cut anything up.

    Anyone here done this yet? How much room do I have to work with before I restrict to much in the way of oil flow or get into the way of the crank? I am not removing the pan to check until I know I have no other option. I am hoping I have something put together wrong but I dont see how I could...

    Thanks again guys for the replies and if you think of anything else, please let me know.

  10. #10
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    im kinda curious if WD set this frame up for a small block?? Not sure about this set up.

    3/4" can be made up in pan mods. does this pan feature a windage screen?
    MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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  11. #11
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    When I ordered the frame I specified Big Block and Wayne said that the BB and SB frames are the same.

    Yes, there is a windage screen.

    Nothing can be easy can it?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    63

    Default

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    What do you guys think about taking a piece of 1"x3"x(the proper length) bar stock and bolting it to the existing two holes - have two holes drilled approx. 1.5" in the bar stock below the two original holes. Essentially moving the R&P one inch out and 1.5" down? I have a new ididit steering column to put in as well. Notching the oil pan is still an option but this may be cleaner and certainly easier for me. And I even have some of the red paint left for the bar stock if it works.

    http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/8653/1030689iv3.jpg

  13. #13
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    Jun 2006
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    Torrington Ct
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    Default

    Did that rack come with the kit ?

  14. #14
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    Aug 2005
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FabUThis
    Did that rack come with the kit ?
    Yes, it did.

  15. #15
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    you'll play havok with bump steer...

    Nothing can be easy can it?
    yes, you can modify the pan. Not too difficult to do. Where are you?
    MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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  16. #16
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    Aug 2005
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    Bump steer is no good...

    I am in Indiana. I guess I am back to modifying the pan...

    Wayne replied to my email. His thoughts were modify the pan or raise the motor with the pan being the better option... He said he did not know what went wrong on the frame.

  17. #17
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    Josh I have a C4 wayne Due sub and I origionally had set a big block in it..'
    It did rub the rack as well... Very lightly though..
    I would NOT and I repete NOT move the rack.. Wayne spent a lot of time trying to remove all bump steer from his systems and moving the rack will screw that up. In actuallity the rack needs to move up more not down... He did have to compromise it a little to fit the engine so far forwards..
    When I spoke with wayne back when, he stated to me that there is about 1/8" bumpsteer throughout the entire suspension travel..
    I would recomend you move the engine back a smidge or modify the pan.

    If you dont have a stroker in it you should have room to clearance the pan...
    Formally known as 06T'rex

    69 Camaro Under construction
    W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
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  18. #18
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    Aug 2005
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    Default

    Madspeed,

    Thanks for the reply. I do not have a stroker so I will be doing the pan mod this weekend. If the rub was light, I would prob just cheat the motor up but I need way to much room. Do you have any pics of you unit that you would care to share?

  19. #19
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    Aug 2005
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    Default

    I chickened out on cutting the pan. I was not worried about the leaks (I am a certified welder) but it would get ugly and take up more time... I think what I ended up doing looks pretty good... sorta..... Here are pics of the fix:

    http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9884/1030692me8.jpg

    http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6916/1030693wr7.jpg

    Here are a few general picks I took before I came in tonight that I thought I would share of the project.

    http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9461/1030694tx1.jpg

    http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1994/1030700ay6.jpg

    http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/3922/1030703pb2.jpg

    http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/7882/1030704cc4.jpg



    Thanks again everyone for helping me figure this thing out!

  20. #20
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    Looks excellent, can't beat that... nevermind. Just make sure you didn't loosen the windage tray and push it into the crank. great progress.
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