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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States

      Hope I did right

      I just sent off for a 98 ls1 and t56 6speed with a lot o miles on it
      I got it off ebay No surprise, for about 3200 as a pullout.
      My plans are to Rebuild it myself using Lunati rotating assy and two hair dryers.
      My machinest has a set of the higly saught after aluminum truck heads ( I hear for the large cc chambers)
      The trans I will rebuild myself with all new Gforce internals
      Kind of dumb to ask if i screwed myself after buying it =)

      I just couldnt wait any longer

      feed me some info.

      Thanks for the input Ken F

      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      What's the mileage? As for the heads, all the truck heads that I know of are aluminum(5.3, LQ4, LQ9). I've never even looked at a 4.8 so maybe those are cast iron. Use the 6.0 heads to drop the compression a little for the turbos.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      its at a healthy 96k miles (ouch) but I pretty confident that these engs have plenty o life left.I am going to run it for a short time untill I get a rotating assy.

      Anny sugg on a 4.0 stroker?
      Im thinkin Lunati or possibly scat, cola,
      I am unshure of the eagle stuff but I havent run any eagle parts yet at these Hp Numbers
      Im gonna Darton sleeve it or find a smokin deal on an ls2 block
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      I'd simply run it with the 6.0 heads and appropriate boost until it pops. Of course do a leak down test and visual inspection on the engine first to even know if its worth it. Save your money in the mean time for either the stroker kit or the LS2. Either one will outright replace the current engine so all the work you do now to get it right will not have to be changed when you switch or stroke it. Those are my thoughts but I am not sure just how much power you want out of this engine or what your planning to put it through.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      Im gonna try for over 1k hp
      I planned on doing the darton sleeves.
      Ill run it stock untill i obtain all the parts
      Im going to rebuld the T56 with all new Gforce internals.
      but is this just the wrong block to use? or will it not matter once i darton sleeve it
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Those power levels are out of my range of knowledge honestly. I believe you will need to switch to the cast iron block though for peice of mind. I think the aluminum ones are only good to about 800 reliably. LS1tech will have the info you need on what the blocks can handle. Personally, I feel the added weight of the cast iron block is worth the durability at those levels. Besides you want be able to tell the difference from behind the driver's wheel.

      If you choose to switch to the cast block, you can use the current engine for trial and error and getting any bugs/fitment issues sorted out. Save your money, build the other engine, and then just swap when your ready or you blow the aluminum one.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2003
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      3,445
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you owned or built a 1000 HP engine before? Get ready for more expenses than you imagined

      That aluminum block will just allow the heads to lift at that power under boost. Sleeving it would make it worse. Look for a cast iron 6.0 truck block instead, install custom billet main caps, custom 1/2" head studs drilled, and run aftermarket casting heads (AFR 225s) which are beefier and won't lift as easily.

      Stock LS1 head castings, on normal sized head studs, on an aluminum block, you are looking at ~750-800 rwhp "reliably" under boost. Stock crank is fine for 1000 HP, as nobody has busted one of those yet. I know of a couple Eagle cast cranks pushing 1200 rwhp too.

      My suggestion: shoot for 700 rwhp for now if you plan on using that engine with 6.0L heads. Keep it reliable.
      Co-Founder, LS1TECH.com


      Forged Wheel Dealer, Contact me for a quote!
      www.DV8Motoring.com

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States

      Thanks

      Thanks for the info Nine.
      No I have not Ran a 1k hp eng yet.
      I am fully aware of the costs involved.
      I built a 1300 hp N20 big block for the car but I sold it to buy this ls setup.
      I know what it takes to make 1k in a big block, But Ls platform is new to me keep up the comments I need them all

      Ok so ill back out of the ls deal and get an iron block
      Unless i can get an aluminum one to take my abuse
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Caledonia, MI
      Posts
      449
      Country Flag: United States
      I would suggest spending as much time in the forced induction forum @ ls1tech.com as you can. Even turbomustangs.com has some really good turbo lsx info. Take a look at what some of the heavy hitters on those sites are running and it should save you money in the long run.(by not doing things twice)

      Good luck sounds like a cool project...

      Jason

      Jason Mitchell
      1969 Camaro @ Dutchboys





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