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    Results 81 to 100 of 139
    1. #81
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Got my spare fender back from my buddy with the color test. The Code 29 Dark Blue (front) looks best most of the time, but it does turn blurple. The Code 492 Saville Grey looks too grey...but I like the slate-ish kind of hue. I'm gonna see if I can get a custom "492" mixed with double the blue ingredients.






      I got the firewall completely smoothed until I saw a post on Facebook and decided to relocate the wiper motor. So I ground out some of the filler I had just finished and worked it out. Had help from Kevin's post a few years ago when he did it.
      http://nastyz28.com/forum/showthread...=113069&page=7

      Now I just have to finish smoothing it out.





    2. #82
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Finished smoothing & mocked up the hidden wiper motor & line lock. I'll mount the clutch reservoir with a self-tapper once the engine bay is assembled and I can determine the best fit.




      I had to modify the sway bar holes in the frame for my Hotchkis bar. They said it was common. So I welded in a 3/16" plate and tapped it all the way through the frame.






      My buddy was dragging ass to help with the spot blaster so I just borrowed it and did it myself. It's not the greatest, but with some patience it works.



      And while I had the blaster handy I decided to melt out the factory lead on the quarter. There was a tiny crack starting. I see the factory welded a few beads in addition to the spot welds. So I figured I'd weld the rest before filling it back in.

      Exposed with 3M rubbery paint/rust disc.


      Melted with my little torch.


      Wiped with a wet rag.


      Blasted.


      T-1000 Terminator leftovers.

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      Please make sure you rear the proper respirator that lead will kill you.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      I always wear my Niosh when doing any sanding/grinding or something with fumes.

    5. #85
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Designed & ordered a set of gauges from Speedhut. Nice to be able to do them from scratch so they are unique. Also just saw the touch screen from Holley and it would fit the dash perfect. May have to do that as well.




      https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/553-106

      Slinging filler too. This part sucks.






    6. #86
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Oh, and I welded the whole B-pillar seam, and then added a strip of sheet metal in the recessed area for more strength. And I welded the B-pillar to roof seam at the weatherstripping channel and added a fillet where it was sharp.



      Finished the bracing inside the quarters and then welded the quarters back closed. Then stripped the whole body.



    7. #87
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Put some plastic up to make a garage condom so I could spray. SPI epoxy first, Lizard Skin ceramic outside and LS sound control inside, then Raptor Liner outside. Didn't like the stacked texture of the Raptor on top of the Lizard, so sanded it back down smooth and reshot the Raptor. Now I just plan to shoot some more Lizard Skin ceramic on the inside of the firewall to make up for what was sanded off and then I can take down my "booth" and get this thing off the rotisserie finally!

















    8. #88
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      I also got some new parts in this week. DIY C5/C6 kit and SPC upper arms from Custom Works, and rotors & calipers from Amazon. I went Z51 spec withthe 13.4" rotors. The calipers came naked without the "Corvette" on them which is nice, because I had already planned on sanding that off and making them say "Camaro". I took the 4th-gen Camaro logotype and modified it slightly and arched it for the calipers. I think it will look pretty sweet...kinda stockish. The SPC arms will be nice for alignment adjustment in them without using shims, which is a nice solution since my G-braces mount to the A-arm studs.






      ^ Photoshop of a blue caliper and bare aluminum "Camaro". I think it should look pretty good.

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      140
      Country Flag: United States
      nice work.

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      California City Ca.
      Posts
      398
      nice project
      Dale Hayes
      87 turbo t
      turbonetics t60, pet stock location intercooler, ride tech coilovers, rjc exhaust, 60lb injectors with tt chip, ported heads and intake, ported tb, baer brakes, roh 17 inch wheels....now need to finish paint and get it put back together.

    11. #91
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      Very nice.
      Some times I'm fast sometimes I'm half-fast

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Finally back to some hot rodding! Had enough of the sanding and spraying for a while...and I want to get the car on wheel dollies so I can move it around too. It's off the rotisserie and officially has some bolts in it again. haha

      Did the Herb Adams spring eye relocation, which proved a pain with the Slide-A-Link brackets. Also found a spot where there was contact even before the relocation...nothing a little clearancing can't fix. Kept all my cuts under control and even did some grinding on the leaf and the bushing where there is more meat, rather than the spring eye bracket. All in all I'm happy with the result. 3/8" lower ride height, 3/4" more ground clearance at the SAL bracket, better instant center...for free!








      Also got a quick shot of the full exhaust before installing the tail pipes and the rear end. It's nice to be assembling...even if it is just baby steps.



    13. #93
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Here's a reference pic of how low the SAL bracket used to sit compared to the subframe connector:

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Charlotte
      Posts
      1,295
      Needs 345s out back...
      2005 LeMans Blue Corvette w/ T56 & Z51 & C6Z06 Brakes, Build Thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?64496
      2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD LLY / Allison
      2014 Chevy SS LS3 / 4 Door

    15. #95
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Not gonna happen. Maybe on the Beretta...after a Schwartz chassis...after hell freezes over...

    16. #96
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,640
      Country Flag: United States
      Progress is good. Keep plodding away.

    17. #97
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Mocked up the front end too. Had to drill the balljoints to fit the SPC arms and modify the spindles for the C6 brakes. Now my balljoint is the droop limiter and the bj plate hits the wheel and full droop, full lock (ok at ride height). So when I get the steering linkage on I'll see how far full lock actually is, because the tires hit the Hotchkis bar in front as expected...so that will be my steering stop. haha I also mocked up my rollbar tube for under the rad support with cardboard. I'll get the template to a local shop and get it bent. Will require some surgery on the rad support, but it will fit nicely.









      I also finally got my custom Speedhut gauges and I'm excited/disappointed. The quality is very nice and the electroluminescence is awesome. I like that they are all electrical gauges and the daisy chained quick connect wiring is super clean. Unfortunately - they used the wrong blue compared to what I spec'd and approved. They used the middle "Giants" blue for the dials rather than the lighter "Panthers" blue like I wanted. I double checked their emails and it is correct in the proof I approved...so we'll see what they do about it. It might be picky, but it's what I designed...and being a designer makes me a little anal about that stuff. The middle blue won't match my stripes very well...





    18. #98
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      I got my test fender back from my painter and I'm still undecided on a color. All these dark/slate blues tend to be very metameric. They look quite different in sunlight/flash/fluorescent. And I seem to like different samples best in each light source... I did cut up pieces of the hood decal I won't be using to see how the tri-color stripes will look.

      Colors here are Volvo#492/80 Camaro #29/modified Volvo#492/13 Corvette "Night Race Blue"




    19. #99
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,640
      Country Flag: United States
      I sympathize with your color dilemma. That's why my truck has a white cab. It makes a good undercoat if I can ever pick a color.

    20. #100
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
      Posts
      736
      Back to hot rodding! Spent the last week (and all the long weekend) doing a whole new roof on my parents' new house. Glad I'm not a roofer for a living.

      I got my bar bent by a local shop. It's 1.5" .120 wall tubing. For $30! Can't beat it. Had some 3/16 left over to plate the frame where it mounts. Welded the perimeter of the plate and the center hole of the frame to the plate. Super strong. Thinking about adding a cage nut to the frame where the rad support mounts. Would make it really easy to bolt in since my access hole from the bottom is gone now. This thing should keep the subframe square and be a nice spot to jack the front of the car up. haha

      I had to cut up the core support some to get the best fitment. I'll see how that goes this weekend getting the radiator situated again.






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