Jakefab 1968 Injected Dodge Charger

[redmist]

Most Current Picture from a couple weeks ago. With extra set of rims and Drag Radials on the back.





I purchased this car around 2001 as a fairly original car. It didn’t have the original transmission in it, and the factory 383 was built and promptly destroyed from a set of non-heat-treated rocker adjusters. The car then set for 9 years in my garage until I decided to build it back up. We wanted a reliable driver that I could find parts for at any parts store, so factory EFI components were key. You can find the conversion to EFI here: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/in...c,99432.0.html
I replaced the trunk floor, most of the interior, rewired the car, and did the front floor pan at the same time. I have slowly been making this as solid of a performer as I can where budget has allowed, and I had time to do it. I used quality parts and did the best I could at installing these components and it has paid off. The car runs and drives amazing! It’s fast, turns amazing, sticks to the road (Except matting it in first gear) and turns heads everywhere.

It is in need of paint and body. It’s an original EE-1 car, and I do have the build sheet. It’s extremely solid and that’s not a lie. The frame rails and underside are dry and rust free., Floor pans look good, package tray has surface/flash rust only. I do see bubbles coming through the paint in the door front corners, and the repair on the left rear quarter is starting to have some body filler failure.

I have a bunch of stock parts from the car (Dash mostly) as well as a bunch of aftermarket parts, pieces, documentation, another fuel tank, and fresh Jakefab fuel puck. Second set of rear rims with 295 drag radials.

I DROVE this car…. Fairly spirited, but not abused. It’s not a show car…. It’s not a stock car. It’s a great representation of a reliable mod car using a solid 1968 Dodge Charger.

If you want to build a sweet Pro-Touring 68 Charger, this is a ridiculously good starting point, or you can enjoy it as is.

Why am I letting it go?

It honestly hurts a little to let it go, I have so much time into this, but I have my very first vehicle I ever owned (1965 Ford F-100) And I would like to put my efforts and time into that for now. If there is no interest, I may keep it. Sorta putting the feelers out!


$38,500


Engine/trans

• 1967 Block 440 .030 over
• Factory forged crank, .010 under
• SRP Forged pistons, K1 Forged rods, ARP2000 fasteners
• TCI “Rattler” Balancer, 36-1 timing wheel
• ARP Head studs, ARP Main studs
• Edelbrock RPM heads OOTB
• Comp XS282S Solid cam
• Smith Bros pushrods, Hughes billet hold-downs, Crane “Gold” Roller rockers
• Edelbrock EFI Intake, and fuel rails, Aeromotive regulator
• 600 CC Injectors (Ford GT-500) -8 Inlet and return PTFE Lines front to back
• Aeromotive 340 pump, Jakefab fuel hat
• MS3X Engine Management, full sequential, fuel/spark
• GM D-585 Coil near plug
• 92mm Throttle Body
• Dougs 2” Headers to 3.5” crossover exhaust, downturns
• Copes built 727 Pro-Street, Billet front drum. PTC Custom converter
• Strange driveshaft, 1350 joints
• 513HP, 542 FtLbs on Valley Cranks dyno
• Griffin Radiator, Dual SPAL 12” fans with custom fit shroud

Plenty more quality parts, this engine is super clean, crisp, and sounds flat out amazing. It’s a ground shaker.


Suspension/Brakes/Steering

• QA1 Tubular front K Member
• QA1 Upper control arms
• Hotchkis 1.10 torsion bars
• Hotchkis Adjustable strut rods
• Hotchkis front sway bar
• Hotchkis Sub Frame Connectors
• Hotchkis front shocks
• Hydro-Boost with Wilwood master, and prop valve
• 13” Cobra brake conversion up front
• 11.25” Cobra conversion on the rear
• Borgeson steering gear conversion
• Rear front leaf hangers drilled and flipped
• 3.91 Yukon gears, solid spacer, Sure-Grip

Electrical/tuning

• Full rewire front to back using a Ron Francis kit
• Everything was Lineman spliced, Soldered, and shrink wrapped/loomed
• battery in trunk (optima Red) Remote cutoff in rear
• SpeedHut custom gauges (Programable High Low warn)
• AEM A/F Ratio gauge with Bosch o2 sensor
• Tuned via bluetooth over my laptop, or phone.
• Denso 120 Amp alternator, low mount bracket
• GM IAC, MAT, WT, OIL, MAP sensors
• Ford Crank, Mopar Cam sensors (All these are easy parts store parts)
• It has a radio I never use
• Full time data logging to SD card

Interior

• New carpet
• New console
• Dash face for custom gauges
• Front Pro-Car seats
• Everything is there, looks nice, feels nice, smells nice!

Body and Paint

• This car has honestly not seen a solid drop of water in 17 years. It’s dry as a bone
• I know the left rear quarter has been replaced (Before my time)
• Trunk pans were replaced by me (Previous owner cut a hole to get to fuel sender)
• Front passenger floor board replaced by me (Looks like original was punctured by something)
• It has the normal areas associated with rust on the top side. Corners of rear window, lower door corners starting to show, but solid
• However! It’s not even close to what you see on these cars, this is a very very solid car.
• It has the original paint that was on the car when I purchased it. Not Original factory paint though.
• A couple dings, small dents, plenty of scrapes (Hey…. It needs body and paint!)
• The car still looks amazing going down the road, I added the stripe, because I like it
• Underside of car still has its factory undercoating and is as solid as it was from the factory

[redmist]

Car is SOLD!

[DippedInSauce]

That was an absolute bargain!