A few 4L80E Questions - Shifters and Compatability Help!

[Barrrf]

Hello all! Im about to finish rebuilding a 4L80E (did it myself with the help of the ATSG manual) but I came across some info on the sloppy wiki that concerns me a bit. I have an early 4L80E with the cooling ports toward the front. I found this info - "

These early transmission also did not have mounting holes for the manual lever position switch (MLPS) ie. neutral safety switch." - is this going to be an issue with my LS swap?

2nd question - Im a shifter noob. Ive been looking at the B&M and TCI shifters but have no ideas what I should be looking for as far as features are concerned. Im not trying to win drag races but I don't want to go cheap just because Im not trying to win drag races. Id prefer to not have to ratchet shift all the time unless that's a cool feature Im missing out on.

Looking forward to your expertise here. Thanks!

[Schwartz Performance]

You can put the neutral safety on the shifter; no problem.

Lokar and Shiftworks have solutions for you in addition to B&M. The ratchet shifters still have a "drive/overdrive" gear which will allow the trans to shift automatically.. You don't need to shift it full manual mode unless the transmission itself is configured that way.

-Dale

[Barrrf]

It doesn't have to be a stock conversion. Or look stock or anything like that. Is a shifter just a shifter since really it's just a great selector anyways? Or are there things to look for in a shifter?

[mytmouz]

I have the early style 4L80, but on an old school sbc, in one of my Chevy LUV's. I am running a B&M Quicksilver, in a 68 camaro console...

[Schwartz Performance]

It doesn't have to be a stock conversion. Or look stock or anything like that. Is a shifter just a shifter since really it's just a great selector anyways? Or are there things to look for in a shifter?

Ok. The only thing to look for in a shifter is fitment to the transmission (if it says it fits a TH350/400 but not a 4spd auto, don't get it).
Also, be prepared to possibly drill holes or cut & weld the bracket that holds the cable/linkage- might need some tweaking to shift properly.
Speaking of cables, I prefer cable-operated shifters rather than rod shifted.

-Dale

[Barrrf]

Ok. The only thing to look for in a shifter is fitment to the transmission (if it says it fits a TH350/400 but not a 4spd auto, don't get it).
Also, be prepared to possibly drill holes or cut & weld the bracket that holds the cable/linkage- might need some tweaking to shift properly.
Speaking of cables, I prefer cable-operated shifters rather than rod shifted.

-Dale

Thanks Dale! Im actually going to have to fill a huge hole where the old manual shifter came through then cut new holes for the auto - because upgrades? Idk lol. Also just realized the previous owner of the trans welded a bracket to the shift shaft on the trans so I have to replace that too.

[Schwartz Performance]

Your 4L80e has the mounting bosses for the standard trans-mounted neutral safety switch if you wanted to use it. You'll need a long shaft though. The short shaft will work fine without the NSS, and you can use the NSS feature on your new shifter.

-Dale

[Barrrf]

Your 4L80e has the mounting bosses for the standard trans-mounted neutral safety switch if you wanted to use it. You'll need a long shaft though. The short shaft will work fine without the NSS, and you can use the NSS feature on your new shifter.

-Dale

Thank you again. I noted the bosses while reading up on NSS today and how I need to wire/integrate into my wiring harness. Also, having those threaded bosses help me to narrow down which year trans I have with the help of the gear selector lever style. The shaft I ordered is the long one from Sonnax. So I either buy a $50 NSS for the trans or just wire into the one that'll be included with the shifter.

[Barrrf]

Anyone know the hell this thing is? I can tell you for absolute certainty it's not part of the hd2 kit



https://imgur.com/c8BuqPK

[Barrrf]

I think I know what it is. I think it's the modulator from the 4L80E-3 full manual control kit.

Question, do I have a full manual valve body? How would I know? Can I remove this modulator or should I run a vacuum line to it?

Goal :to not have a full manual car

[Barrrf]

I think I figured it out. I pulled the shift solenoids out and there aren't any springs or rods. The accumulator housing was also empty except for 2 springs.

Now my question is, is it possible to go back to auto? What parts are required? I don't have directions for the full manual kit to look through

[Barrrf]

More. Sorry about all the post. But I think I can buy this and fix it back to auto?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F260937432368

[Schwartz Performance]

That's beyond my knowledge, i'd contact an actual trans shop, perhaps Bowler could help out.

-Dale