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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States

      Wilwood 7/8" Master Problems

      I just finished installing my Wilwood 7/8" master and can't get a pedal. This master was brand new, and I sent it back to Wilwood for the recall. I finally get around to installing it in my 63 Hemi Dart to replace the 15/16" that was in there. I've bled it twice, and there is definitely no air in it. I can pump it till the cows come home and still no pedal, I'm guessing it's no good. Anyone else having issues?

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      Did you bench bleed it?
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      I would plug the ports and see if it builds pressure. That is the method I use to bench bleed.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,729
      Country Flag: United States
      vaccuum bleed it from the reservior. After trying to bleed my buddies for 30 min and ZERO pedal i put a vaccuum pump on it, shoved a line into the reservoir and pumped away. After 5 min we had a solid pedal. see link below. Worked like a charm

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jhGAceCpx4

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GoodysGotaCuda View Post
      Did you bench bleed it?
      Yes,

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States
      Well I just got off the phone with Wilwood, as it turns out the 7/8" master is too small for my setup, they recommend a 15/16" master ( what I took out ). Looks like I'll have a Master for sale....

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      7/8" is a little small for me, but it works/bleeds fine. Not sure that another 1/16" is going to resolve any bleeding problems..
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by icemanrd19 View Post
      vaccuum bleed it from the reservior. After trying to bleed my buddies for 30 min and ZERO pedal i put a vaccuum pump on it, shoved a line into the reservoir and pumped away. After 5 min we had a solid pedal. see link below. Worked like a charm



      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jhGAceCpx4

      I've seen quite a bit when it comes to cars, but this one was new to me. I went ahead and tried this on what I thought was a well-bleed system. I am pretty certain the air wasn't induced by my process and I was able to pull a ton of air out of the master cylinder.

      The pedal feels slightly better, I'll know for sure when I go drive it next, I'm excited to see if things got better. They were pretty good before.
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GoodysGotaCuda View Post
      I've seen quite a bit when it comes to cars, but this one was new to me. I went ahead and tried this on what I thought was a well-bleed system. I am pretty certain the air wasn't induced by my process and I was able to pull a ton of air out of the master cylinder.

      The pedal feels slightly better, I'll know for sure when I go drive it next, I'm excited to see if things got better. They were pretty good before.
      Interesting, I might have to try that...

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Posts
      7
      Quote Originally Posted by icemanrd19 View Post
      vaccuum bleed it from the reservior. After trying to bleed my buddies for 30 min and ZERO pedal i put a vaccuum pump on it, shoved a line into the reservoir and pumped away. After 5 min we had a solid pedal. see link below. Worked like a charm

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jhGAceCpx4
      I just tried this with my mightyvac and I couldn't believe the amount of air bubbles that came out! I also just installed a 7/8" wilwood master on my '69 cutlass, but in the process of chasing down leaks, air got into the system. Bled it a few times the regular way but still had a spongy pedal. Came back from a test run and it brakes leaps and bounds better than before with less effort and nice firm pedal. Thank you!!!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by BondAR View Post
      I just tried this with my mightyvac and I couldn't believe the amount of air bubbles that came out! I also just installed a 7/8" wilwood master on my '69 cutlass, but in the process of chasing down leaks, air got into the system. Bled it a few times the regular way but still had a spongy pedal. Came back from a test run and it brakes leaps and bounds better than before with less effort and nice firm pedal. Thank you!!!
      I did notice that on my rear Wilwood port, if I pulled too hard of a vacuum, I'd suck past the m/c piston seal. I knew that because the dust boot that connects that seal area to the brake pushrod would collapse. So I believe I was pulling some of that air through the m/c while doing it. That said, it's probably best to pull a fairly light vacuum on the aft port of the m/c.
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      120
      check pedal to piston -actuato-radjustment??





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