Ridetech StrongArm Question for First-gen Mustangs

[BigPerm]

I talked with ridetech this morning already, but was wondering if anyone else had this issue.

I installed their Strong Arm Coilover kit with upper and lower tublar control arms. The lower arm is a one-piece design that incorporates the strut rod - pretty ingenious. However, my concern is that at full steering lock, my disc brake calipers contact the lower control arm. While this also seems to reduce the turning radius, I think the bigger concern would be the caliper contact. My car specifically is a 1967 coupe and uses the stock-style Kelsey Hayes 4-pistons that mount on the front of the rotor (towards front of car).

Anyone have thoughts on this? Perhaps their test car had a different brake setup?

[dhutton]

Install some steering stops to keep it from hitting the caliper.

Don

[bret]

I talked with ridetech this morning already, but was wondering if anyone else had this issue.

I installed their Strong Arm Coilover kit with upper and lower tublar control arms. The lower arm is a one-piece design that incorporates the strut rod - pretty ingenious. However, my concern is that at full steering lock, my disc brake calipers contact the lower control arm. While this also seems to reduce the turning radius, I think the bigger concern would be the caliper contact. My car specifically is a 1967 coupe and uses the stock-style Kelsey Hayes 4-pistons that mount on the front of the rotor (towards front of car).

Anyone have thoughts on this? Perhaps their test car had a different brake setup?

Our guys probably already discussed this with you, but I'll comment for those who are lurking...

Yes, our test car[s] had Baer brakes on them. From memory, the oem KH brake caliper had a fairly large inboard protrusion that could cause what you are describing. Those big KH OEM brakes are not very common to begin with, and most people change to Baer or Wilwood stuff anyhow. You will definitely need to install a steering stop. If the caliper hits the control arm it will likely cause the caliper to move on the pins and cause severe pad knockback. If the steering radius is severely compromised by a steering stop, you may have to build a new caliper mount that clocks the caliper in a different location. Worst case...may have to invest in a Baer or Wilwood brake system. Sorry for the extra work/expense...another example of how hard it is to validate every conceivable combination. Let us know how you end up resolving it...I would like to put that in out tech files.

[BigPerm]

Our guys probably already discussed this with you, but I'll comment for those who are lurking...

Yes, our test car[s] had Baer brakes on them. From memory, the oem KH brake caliper had a fairly large inboard protrusion that could cause what you are describing. Those big KH OEM brakes are not very common to begin with, and most people change to Baer or Wilwood stuff anyhow. You will definitely need to install a steering stop. If the caliper hits the control arm it will likely cause the caliper to move on the pins and cause severe pad knockback. If the steering radius is severely compromised by a steering stop, you may have to build a new caliper mount that clocks the caliper in a different location. Worst case...may have to invest in a Baer or Wilwood brake system. Sorry for the extra work/expense...another example of how hard it is to validate every conceivable combination. Let us know how you end up resolving it...I would like to put that in out tech files.

Bret,

Thanks for the response. I do have a couple general comments though:
1. Not sure how one could state that the KH brakes are not that common: they are the factory-style calipers found all appropriately optioned cars as well as a very popular upgrade for non-factory disc cars. I will agree that they are rather wide, but aftermarket kits like Wilwood are almost exactly the same width and mount in the same forward location and would also contact the LCA. To counter your comment, I would say that basing the design of a kit off of a car with Baer brakes is much less common than the two above options. From what I can tell, the Baer kit mounts towards the upper rear of the rotor, which is less common.
2. If I had known this would be a potential concern, it may have changed my purchase decision between this kit and a kit that uses a stock-style LCA/strut rod combo. Like most, I don't have the funds to invest $2k in a suspension system to find out it doesn't work ideally with my factory disc brakes and potentially then have to spend another $2k on brakes, let alone a specific set of Baer brakes.

[Gmc427]

lurking x1

[bryant]

Just a note, the Kelsy Hays Calipers are fixed like wilwood, not floating on pins as referenced to by Brett.

[bret]

Just a note, the Kelsy Hays Calipers are fixed like wilwood, not floating on pins as referenced to by Brett.

My bad...I was thinking of the later floating calipers.

Bigperm...how much interference is there? How much turn radius would you loose if you installed a steering stop to prevent caliper/arm interference?

[BigPerm]

My bad...I was thinking of the later floating calipers.

Bigperm...how much interference is there? How much turn radius would you loose if you installed a steering stop to prevent caliper/arm interference?

Attached is a picture of the driver's side. I'm planning on putting some plates under it tomorrow and measuring the radius at current lock against the caliper. I'll post up the results tomorrow afternoon/evening. Not sure what stock radius is/was, but I'm sure someone has that data.

[bret]

Simple way might be to unbolt the caliper temporarily and see how much further you can turn the wheel. If it's another 1/8", a simple steering stop will fix it...the turn radius loss is nearly none. Its it's another 1.5" then we'll have to figure something else out.

[BigPerm]

Simple way might be to unbolt the caliper temporarily and see how much further you can turn the wheel. If it's another 1/8", a simple steering stop will fix it...the turn radius loss is nearly none. Its it's another 1.5" then we'll have to figure something else out.

Out of curiosity, where is the built-in stop suppose to be for the StrongArms? I'm assuming it's somewhere with the spindle and LCA?

[BigPerm]

Simple way might be to unbolt the caliper temporarily and see how much further you can turn the wheel. If it's another 1/8", a simple steering stop will fix it...the turn radius loss is nearly none. Its it's another 1.5" then we'll have to figure something else out.

Got the toe set to about 0 and measured the spindle distance from the LCA vertical stop. It's about 3/4-7/8" on each side. Not sure what that equates to in degrees, but it definitely has hindered the turning radius. I looked at the possibility of flipping the calipers to the back side of the rotor, but the bracket won't work and it would interfere with the knuckle.
Any advice on how we resolve this is appreciated.

[fordsbyjay]

Have you considered swapping out the front brakes with something like Mustang Steve's brackets? You can buy takeoff 12.5 or 13.2" Mustang brake/rotors for $99 on ebay and the brackets are $259. Pretty cheap brake upgrade IMO. I'm not sure if it would fix your problem but they do have pictures on their site to give you a look.

https://www.mustangsteve.com/product/gt2008-ft/

[BigPerm]

Have you considered swapping out the front brakes with something like Mustang Steve's brackets? You can buy takeoff 12.5 or 13.2" Mustang brake/rotors for $99 on ebay and the brackets are $259. Pretty cheap brake upgrade IMO. I'm not sure if it would fix your problem but they do have pictures on their site to give you a look.

https://www.mustangsteve.com/product/gt2008-ft/

No, mainly because I just did this swap last year to the KH-style, so they are brand-new. I'm thinking my best option right now is to find/make a bracket for these KH calipers that will clock them to about the 10 o'clock position. Problem is i'm not that familiar with brake design, and i'm unsure whether or not these calipers can be positioned there in the first place, and then what material the bracket would need to be made from.

Attached are some pictures of the gap. Easiest I found to measure it was to mark a scrap piece of metal and then measure the mark.