LS 4.8 - T56 - Clutch setup - Mechanical / Hydraulic - Sachs1050

[dtindall8705]

Car details:

71 Nova
4.8 LS / TSP 224/228 .600 cam / Cleaned up heads
3.73 8.2
LS t56
Holley Motor mounts / Holley cross member

I was originally thinking I would just the use McLeod adapter plate and a Sachs 1050 clutch with the old school SBC bellhousing. After taking it apart I realized that the clutch disc was not fully engaged with the flywheel. I'm sure this works but I don't like the idea of it. My buddy actually runs the same setup and has had no issues. I would prefer to get full contact with disc and flywheel. (see pictures above of what contact looks like)

So from what I have researched my options are:

1.)Buy a $400 mcleod flywheel so I can use a 11 in clutch.
2.)Use the sachs 1050 and just not have full contact with the flywheel. This would probably end up wearing clutches out faster.
3.)Switch to a hydraulic set and use LS flywheel and clutch



Overall I would prefer to use mechanical linkage but I do not know that this is possible without using the $400 something dollor flywheel from McLeod that is .400" offset towards the transmission.

Any opinions?

Thanks in advance!

DT

[andrewb70]

Don't reinvent the wheel...

Use a F-body bellhousing...LS clutch of your choice...stock F-body hydraulics with the appropriate firewall mount for the MC. I did this on my Cougar and it has been working flawlessly for 3 years. I use the LS7 clutch, but any LS clutch will do...

Andrew

[dtindall8705]

Yea Im beginning to realize this. That way I can just buy off the shelf replacement parts if I ever need to.

Do you happen to have any part #s for factory MC or recommendation on adapter for MC?

Thanks,

DT

Don't reinvent the wheel...

Use a F-body bellhousing...LS clutch of your choice...stock F-body hydraulics with the appropriate firewall mount for the MC. I did this on my Cougar and it has been working flawlessly for 3 years. I use the LS7 clutch, but any LS clutch will do...

Andrew

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

For what it's worth...

When I first installed my Viper T56 behind my SBC I had a similar issue, but my problem was that the clutch wouldn't disengage from the fly wheel. I'm using the same adapter plate, clutch, and bell housing as you with the mechanical linkage.

I completely pulled everything apart, and I got the adjustable McLeod throw out bearing ($65) and installed it with 2 of the spacers installed. After that everything worked GREAT, and I haven't had any issues whatsoever with the clutch.

Just another option to consider.... :-)

[TheJDMan]

Just my opinion for what it's worth, I would only go with a hydraulic clutch setup as a last resort. They are notoriously unreliable. Even professional builds like Big Red have suffered hydraulic clutch failures at inopportune times.

[1985olds]

Just my opinion for what it's worth, I would only go with a hydraulic clutch setup as a last resort. They are notoriously unreliable. Even professional builds like Big Red have suffered hydraulic clutch failures at inopportune times.

So notoriously unreliable that nearly all car manufacturers use hydraulic setups? All systems can fail at inopportune times. Hydraulics can be finicky initially, but once set correctly are no more unreliable than any other systems.

[dtindall8705]

My clutch seems to work fine also. What flywheel did you use? Did it make full contact?

One option i want to measure before going hydraulic is a LS7 flywheel/clutch, adapter plate, and adjustable throw-out.

For what it's worth...

When I first installed my Viper T56 behind my SBC I had a similar issue, but my problem was that the clutch wouldn't disengage from the fly wheel. I'm using the same adapter plate, clutch, and bell housing as you with the mechanical linkage.

I completely pulled everything apart, and I got the adjustable McLeod throw out bearing ($65) and installed it with 2 of the spacers installed. After that everything worked GREAT, and I haven't had any issues whatsoever with the clutch.

Just another option to consider.... :-)

[dtindall8705]

As far as the reliability I feel like it should be ok as long as its setup correctly. As mentioned above they come with every new car. Also my brakes are the same exact type of system and it has never failed. I am a big proponent of using factory parts as much as possible.

McLeod makes some great stuff but $400 for a flywheel is just not a great investment especially if they quit making them and I need a new one in 5 years.

I will be measuring some time this week to see what I can use. I have a LS7 clutch I can mock up

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

I reused my 168-tooth SBC flywheel with the 11" BBC clutch and it makes full contact - but, they were designed for each other. Not sure how the depth compares versus your Sachs flywheel with the same clutch.

[bs46488]

I just put a T56 in a 1970 Nova. Bought all the LS1 F-Body Camaro hydraulics from Rockauto. Very happy with the pricing.

I like the idea of being able to replace parts with "factory" parts. If I have a failure I can just go to my local parts store and order a replacement for a 2001 Camaro and be back on the road.

And after the fabrication work to physically get the LS and T56 into the Nova, it is just a nut and bolt type of install with the factory parts.

[andrewb70]

Yea Im beginning to realize this. That way I can just buy off the shelf replacement parts if I ever need to.

Do you happen to have any part #s for factory MC or recommendation on adapter for MC?

Thanks,

DT

I've used the LUK brand hydraulic slave and clutch kits with great success.

My experience with hydraulic clutch actuation has been nothing but positive. I would choose a firewall MC mount that is designed to use a Girling style MC. They offer longer travel than OEM clutch masters and thus have better range of adjustment, which is better suited to adaptation into older vehicles.

Andrew

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

LUK FTW! ...nothing but good luck with their parts in multiple vehicles.

[dtindall8705]

So I am going to go ahead and just use a hydrualic system. My transmission builder convinced me.

Here are the parts I am planning on getting. Let me know if you there is anything that looks wrong or would be better.

-2000 Camaro - Master cylinder (LUK), slave cylinder (LUK), hydraulic line (Dorman)(is 24" long enough for these kind of swaps?) , Flywheel (unknown brand) - All from Rock Auto

-Clutch setup from transmission shop

-Detriot Speed bracket for the master cylinder

Does anyone recommend running a remote bleeder line? Seems like a good idea.

Has anyone had to use an adjustable joint on the master cylinder rod? Seems like I could weld one on if needed more adjustment.

[1985olds]

So I am going to go ahead and just use a hydrualic system. My transmission builder convinced me.

Here are the parts I am planning on getting. Let me know if you there is anything that looks wrong or would be better.

-2000 Camaro - Master cylinder (LUK), slave cylinder (LUK), hydraulic line (Dorman)(is 24" long enough for these kind of swaps?) , Flywheel (unknown brand) - All from Rock Auto

-Clutch setup from transmission shop

-Detriot Speed bracket for the master cylinder

Does anyone recommend running a remote bleeder line? Seems like a good idea.

Has anyone had to use an adjustable joint on the master cylinder rod? Seems like I could weld one on if needed more adjustment.

Absolutely get the bleeder line. I am running an adjustable wilwood master cylinder, works fine.

[Corey R.]

I have read about the issues on LS1Tech with the factory F-body master cylinder and having to perform the "drill mod". From what I recall, the orifice has to be enlarged in order to increase fluid flow. Has this been the case for anyone here running the OEM F-body setup?

[dtindall8705]

I have read about the issues on LS1Tech with the factory F-body master cylinder and having to perform the "drill mod". From what I recall, the orifice has to be enlarged in order to increase fluid flow. Has this been the case for anyone here running the OEM F-body setup?

I just assumed if I use the OEM master and slave it shouldn't be an issue but I may be wrong.

-DT

[bs46488]

DT

I did cut my master cylinder rod and weld on an adjustable heim joint. It made setting up the clutch pedal easier.

The Dorman 24" line fit perfectly on my Nova.

I bought all LUK stuff from RockAuto. Master, slave, flywheel, and clutch kit.

I am currently working on a stop for the pedal travel.

[dtindall8705]

DT

I did cut my master cylinder rod and weld on an adjustable heim joint. It made setting up the clutch pedal easier.

The Dorman 24" line fit perfectly on my Nova.

I bought all LUK stuff from RockAuto. Master, slave, flywheel, and clutch kit.

I am currently working on a stop for the pedal travel.

Awesome thanks for the info. I will try and weld one on too. Where did you buy the threaded heim? My transmission guy suggested one that already had a heim on it but it was $199 so Ill just adapt a stock one.

[bs46488]

I bought a 3/8 Heim made by QA1 from Summit. It was only $4, but then I had to spend another $96 to get free shipping (which of course I did!)

However I see you can buy them all over on the internet.

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

It was only $4, but then I had to spend another $96 to get free shipping (which of course I did!)

Been there before!