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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      227
      Country Flag: United States

      Anyone running a 8.5" 10-bolt with a BW Super T10 4-speed?

      About to start collecting parts to do this but I'm on a tight budget. Car currently has a 8.2" open rear. Found a '72 Nova 8.5" rear, going to add POSI... probably get the QP bundle with new gears and all the bearings. Will add disc brakes, probably Right Stuff, might be looking for springs too. One question I have is about the driveshaft... does it need to be shortened?
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      South Lyon, MI
      Posts
      1,217
      Country Flag: United States
      That is very similar to my Muncie M22/8.5" 10-bolt set-up. I moved the engine and cannot answer the question regarding the driveshaft length. I will be installing a Powertrax mini-locker in the differential. It was all a function of budget.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Seattle area
      Posts
      360
      I have a 1979 Z-28 RS Camaro Pro -Touring car .I have over the years Changed it from a Turbo 350 to a M-21 4 speed to a Super T-10 ,All I changed when I basically changed was Other than the shiftier was the transmission yoke .From a Tubo 350/M-21 yoke to a Turbo 400 /Super T-10 yoke from the dealer. No drive line modifications involved. Chevys are great that way about interchanging parts.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
      Posts
      4,083
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by OldTimer View Post
      About to start collecting parts to do this but I'm on a tight budget. Car currently has a 8.2" open rear. Found a '72 Nova 8.5" rear, going to add POSI... probably get the QP bundle with new gears and all the bearings. Will add disc brakes, probably Right Stuff, might be looking for springs too. One question I have is about the driveshaft... does it need to be shortened?

      I have run that set up for 7 years, and the car has been pretty reliable and successful, I will answer any questions you have here is the car, for the posi I suggest a truTrac planetary, great system, on the T10 use the posi-loc no jump gear selectors, without it the T10's often pop out of gear under heavy acceleration


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    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Seattle area
      Posts
      360
      Nice car .And looks like you are having all sorts of fine.
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    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Pensacola, FL
      Posts
      1,263
      Country Flag: United States
      I believe you will need to shorten the driveshaft about 1". If the gears in the 8.5 are GM, are the ratio you want, and check out ok, I'd keep them.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      I think Z06vet is on the right track. I looked into the 8.5's when I was looking for a rear for my car. As soon as I started changing gear ratios, adding POSI units, rebuilding, etc., the price ended up being about the same as new 9". I think I'd fount an 8.5" for around $300, so I guess that factored in as well, but people have generally gotten wise to the fact that they are strong. So prices have gone up and availability of junkyard rears has gone down.
      Dude are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      227
      Country Flag: United States
      Luckily I did find a couple of 8.5 rears, one with POSI, one without. The one with POSI is not close and shipping it will double the price to about $500. The one without POSI is local, much cheaper, I've seen it, and the guy is reputable... he'll drop it off at my house. It will need a rebuild so I'll check out the True-Trac Rod... thanks for the tips. Still thinking about 3.08 vs 3.23 gears... no intention of tracking this car, its primarily a fun driver and a cruiser.





      Also got a PM today from a member on here that is in the other end of my state but he has a 8.5 so I'm waiting to hear the specs, get the price. Have a friend on the West Coast who's running a BBC '69 with a 8.5" and a 4-link/Tremec... he loves the 8.5. Knowing him... I assume his has built internals (LOL).
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,295
      Country Flag: United States
      I just picked up an 8.5 for my 67. I got a housing for $100. I have a posi unit on the bench. So I'll build it on the cheap.

      I'm more interested in making a ST10 work on a first gen. I plan on putting the 350 and ST10 from my 77 into my 67 just to get it going.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Anniston, Al
      Posts
      290
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by AU Doc View Post
      I think Z06vet is on the right track. I looked into the 8.5's when I was looking for a rear for my car. As soon as I started changing gear ratios, adding POSI units, rebuilding, etc., the price ended up being about the same as new 9". I think I'd fount an 8.5" for around $300, so I guess that factored in as well, but people have generally gotten wise to the fact that they are strong. So prices have gone up and availability of junkyard rears has gone down.
      That's the reason I went with and 8.8 disc rear out of a mustang GT. The explorer rear ends are a good swap too. I narrowed it 3in on each side, replaced the trac loc, and bought new moser 31 spline axles. Came in a little under $1k for everything including the cost of the rear end.
      1967 Firebird (current project)
      1967 Firebird (unfinished project SOLD)

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      227
      Country Flag: United States
      I went with the local 8.5" '72 Nova rear. I got it from the nephew of a friend in town... Paul even delivered it to my house. The price was cheap enough, I owe a little artwork barter, but thats easy for me. Was curious about picking up an aluminum rear cover... wonder if the thickness of the cover & flange might interfere with a rear sway bar? I have a Helwig up front... will most likely go with a Helwig out back. Going to go with an Eaton POSI. The gears are 2.73 and I want 3.23 so the QP package looks like a winner. But I am curious about the cover BC I know of a Perfect Launch 8.5" that I may be able to get for well under $100. I had a TA cover for my last ride and no problem with the rear sway bar, but that was a Ford LOL. Wouldn't mind it looking this good when I'm done.





      Thats not mine... but here's how she looks from the front now.

      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads







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