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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99

      Lizard Skin Spray On Insulation

      Hello,

      My name is Andrew and I have a question regarding Lizard Skin.

      I just got my car back from an under carriage, trunk, interior pans, firewall media blast and I'm about to send it out for paint / primer (interior pans/trunk pans/under carriage). After primer/paint I've been considering applying Lizard Skin.

      Once I get the car back from paint the car will be placed in storage while my funds build back up for motor/trans/wiring/exterior body work and finally interior.

      My question is: How durable is Lizard Skin? I ask because I'll be reinstalling the entire dashboard, all interior and all wiring myself...from scratch. My concern is that Lizard Skin being (some what soft/malleable) would get 'torn' or 'ripped' from all of the contorting I'll be doing on my knees while installing the interior?

      Does anyone have an opinion? Would it be best to hold off and simply lay down Dynamat when the time comes (after all interior work is done)? I just don't want to spend $400+ on Lizard Skin to end up with a product that has been compromised when all is said and done.

      I might be over-thinking this.




      Thanks,
      Andrew

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States
      You can make your own Lizard Skin for a fraction of the cost. Its just latex paint and glass beads you can get from Body Shop Supply stores.
      The rule is measure twice and cut once. My problem is I still measure with a mic and cut with an axe!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2016
      Posts
      341
      Country Flag: United States
      Save your money on Lizard skim IMHO. Install Hushmat and your good to go. I used Summits brand (which is Hushmat) and saved some money. I'm very happy with this product.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Indpls, IN
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      It is pretty durable, you are not going to damage it by crawling on it.

      It is a PIA to spray in my opinion. Trying to funnel it into the gun they supply sucks. And I tried to thin it out as the instructions stated to use the siphon gun and never could get it to work.
      Smaller bottles and a spray applicator like some of the truck bed liner kits would be better.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      I have never understood why guys use the stuff. Has just about zero insulation value.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Location
      Southern Ontario
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: Canada
      I assume you’re talking about the sound insulation not the heat insulation. I did the sound insulation in my F100 and it was a drastic improvement. I bought a cheap shutz gun to spray it and had no issues. I top coated it after a couple of days with tremclad paint and it holds up very well. I sprayed the entire interior of my truck, floors roof everything. I had assumed my boots would tear up the floor and I would need a floor mat but that is not the case at all. I am a big fan

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2013
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      275
      Country Flag: United States
      The previous owner of my project vehicle sprayed this stuff on everything and I wish it was all gone.



      Lucky for me some areas weren't prepped well, so I can pull it off in small sheets.

      I would look for other products.
      Brian

      1972 C10 - 454/TH400 - Short bed conversion - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...1972-C10-SoCal
      1970 Nova - LS Swap - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...Cal?highlight=




    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Delaware
      Posts
      84
      I have used Lizard Skin on 3 vehicles now and love it. You need to learn a little. There are two products, one is sound and one is for heat. They are used together and there is also a topcoat to spray on and seal it. I put the heat only in my 72 Jimmy which is a beach vehicle. No top also. I have it at the beach for the summer and kids going in and out with surfboards and it is holding excellent, as well as keeping the heat out. The floor is not hot at all. I also put it in my brothers 51 Chevy low rider and it it great with both the sound and heat. As far as spraying if you get the kit it comes with a inexpensive sprayer, that works easy, or you can use an undercoat gun.
      I am not affiliated with it but love the product. If you have questions call Lizard Skin and ask for Marx, He is one of the reps I know and he will answer the more involved or technical questions.
      David

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      San Francisco, CA
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: United States
      While my car isn't running.... I did lots of prep... followed the Lizard Skin instructions and it applied rather easily. I've heard one should still put closed cell foam above it under the carpet for maximum heat efficiency. We would spray in the afternoon and let it dry overnight... then spray again the next day with the other formula (heat and sound barrier). No issues with the gun they supply. Just clean it thoroughly after you finish using it for the day.
      Attached Images Attached Images              
      69 Chevelle 1000hp turbo LS, T56 Mag, JRi coilovers, Watts/torque arm 9", 14" Wilwoods, Recaro CTSv seats, cromo cage, a/c, p/s, built by Coffey Fab Nashville, TN.
      93 RX-7 1200hp turbo LS9, T56 Mag, 8.8", 9.3@163mph + 197mph 1/2 mile





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