Best 2nd Gen Camaro budget suspension

[gscherer78ta]

Is -2.5 considered aggressive? And does that help with clearance?

-2.5° camber is aggressive, wouldn't plan on a lot of tire life but, it does help the car stick with the factory geometry and it also helps with clearance.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

-2.5° camber is aggressive, wouldn't plan on a lot of tire life but, it does help the car stick with the factory geometry and it also helps with clearance.

I second that.

We have used the basic alignment settings below on a variety of different vehicles. We use these as a baseline and tune from there.
Obviously, the more aggressive you plan to drive, the more you will need to adapt.

Camber= 0.5 to 1 deg. negative
Caster= 3-5 deg. positive
Toe= 1/16 to 1/8 inch toe IN

[JEFFTATE]

I would use 18' wheels , there's a better selection of tires and they clear the outer tie rods easier.
No Spacers !! One problem with spacers is the wheel stud is too short , you need more threads to engage on the lugnuts. If you use a spacer , use a longer wheel stud.
Use a C5 Z06 brake kit , maybe from Kore 3 ?
The 10 bolt should be fine for light autocross and street driving.
Get rid of the saginaw 3-speed and get a Super T10 or muncie 4-speed. ( maybe even look around for a TKO 5-speed somebody is selling used )

[79T/Aman]

I frequent Trans Am Country's forums and there are quite a few people there waiting on the PTFB parts they bought. Seems like that is a one man operation. You could also look at Detroit Speed, SpeedTech and ridetech in addition to the vendors already named here.

I have a GM 10 bolt with a Eaton TruTrac in it that had been trouble free for 4 seasons now.

REALY!! We moved our shop 600 miles yes there were delays and I am a one man shop for the most part, you post this a week ago and we have not had any back orders in 6 Months, we make some of the most innovative parts on a budget available, in fact our test car has won 3 SCCA cam class championships, multiple top 3 finishes and all done without cutting the car and ALL bolt on and yes on leaf springs beating out cars with all the bling bling ;-)

74Camaro feel free to call or send an email to me at PTFB

[F-Body International]

I saw that the other day, and was very interested, but then I saw that you said that your sf is for 75-81. Will there be issues with me trying to use your sf on my 74? Otherwise, I would be very interested! I have considered trying to get a different sf anyway because mine is damaged. It's even a bit out of square.

If your frame is damaged and you don't have unlimited funds, then either frame I have for sale is logical. I have a stripped down and slightly modified stock frame...and I also have the fully done up PTFB frame. The fully done-up PTFB frame is by far the better deal if you can swing it. I can also give you a matching 4spd crossmember for either frame.

Also, late frames work in early cars. John Paige from Lab-14 has an '80-'81 (can't remember) frame in his '70. His forum name is NOT A TA. You just have to drill two holes for the rear body mounts.
https://www.lab-14.com/

[F-Body International]

REALY!! We moved our shop 600 miles yes there were delays and I am a one man shop for the most part, you post this a week ago and we have not had any back orders in 6 Months, we make some of the most innovative parts on a budget available, in fact our test car has won 3 SCCA cam class championships, multiple top 3 finishes and all done without cutting the car and ALL bolt on and yes on leaf springs beating out cars with all the bling bling ;-)

74Camaro feel free to call or send an email to me at PTFB

Dave, you gotta change your profile location to TN ;) haha

[74 Camaro]

If your frame is damaged and you don't have unlimited funds, then either frame I have for sale is logical. I have a stripped down and slightly modified stock frame...and I also have the fully done up PTFB frame. The fully done-up PTFB frame is by far the better deal if you can swing it. I can also give you a matching 4spd crossmember for either frame.

Also, late frames work in early cars. John Paige from Lab-14 has an '80-'81 (can't remember) frame in his '70. His forum name is NOT A TA. You just have to drill two holes for the rear body mounts.
https://www.lab-14.com/

Well, that sounds like a no-brainer. I've had my misgivings about using my current subframe. The right lca mount is bent down and the whole thing is 5/16" out of square. There were the typical rusted out bushing holes too as well as other details. Probably repairable, but I would be going out on a limb for sure. I would like to talk with you about getting your PTFB subframe. Look for my pm!

[F-Body International]

Well, that sounds like a no-brainer. I've had my misgivings about using my current subframe. The right lca mount is bent down and the whole thing is 5/16" out of square. There were the typical rusted out bushing holes too as well as other details. Probably repairable, but I would be going out on a limb for sure. I would like to talk with you about getting your PTFB subframe. Look for my pm!

Thanks again for going with the PTFB frame that I have for sale. I’m meeting up with Dave from PTFB today or over the weekend while he is in town where I’m at. He will pick it up from me, bring it his shop in Tennessee and do some final touches to make this setup specific for you and your car. You will be impressed and taken care of. Please keep contact with him to get what you need.

Also, thanks again for working with us on the forum PTFB Dave!

[79T/Aman]

Thanks Jon, just got in town last evening, Thanks for getting that frame Tim, I will be picking it up this weekend and ship it from the TN shop, much easier to palletize it there and ship with the loading docks ;-)

Dave

[74 Camaro]

Thanks everyone for all the replies! Definitely some good info. Ultimately, F-Body International's subframe met my needs the best. The rest will also be mostly PTFB stuff, since Dave will know how to set up a rear suspension to go with the front. Still contemplating options on the trans and rear end...

[79T/Aman]

Just took position of your frame from Jon, let me know your time frame and parts you want as well.

Dave

[76TA]

It wasn't clear in your original post in how much time you're working with. If I'm not mistaken the car is in pieces in your parents garage, correct? If I was you I'd rent out a 26 foot truck and invest heavily in plywood, 2x4s and build up the inside of that truck to transport the parts to the new location.

Building a car is stressful enough. Building a car on a limited budget with limited tools and limited time is just asking for problems.

I see you've already ordered your front sub frame and a few other parts from FBI. Good products for sure.

I'm building a '76 T/A myself. It's a slow go

Good luck.

[Rod]

watching

[74 Camaro]

It wasn't clear in your original post in how much time you're working with. If I'm not mistaken the car is in pieces in your parents garage, correct? If I was you I'd rent out a 26 foot truck and invest heavily in plywood, 2x4s and build up the inside of that truck to transport the parts to the new location.

Building a car is stressful enough. Building a car on a limited budget with limited tools and limited time is just asking for problems.

I see you've already ordered your front sub frame and a few other parts from FBI. Good products for sure.

I'm building a '76 T/A myself. It's a slow go

Good luck.

I do question the likelyhood of my being able to put together everything as quickly and smoothly in real life as I can in my head. The more I research, the more I learn that there is more that I need to learn. Oddball stuff like transmission to rear-end alignment, matching gears to rev range, needing a hydraulic clutch if I try to go with a T56, and modding shifters to work in my application. That's just transmission stuff. Then there's questions about gauges, dash, seats, steering wheel, chassis bracing, etc. Far from being deterred, these unfolding fields of knowledge spur me on to geek out even more over my passion. Some stress is good, right? Since we humans no longer have to struggle to find our next meal, we have conveniently invented hobbies to take the much needed role of stress-provider.

My plan is to get the car ready by April 20th, for a CAM-T event in CA. That will give me one month to get the car ready. After the event I want to take the car on a road trip (with a nice assortment of tools in the trunk). If this initial plan falls through, I will try to use some of my remaining 2 months to work on the car. The road trip is to go see my Grandpa for his 90th birthday party- in Indiana. So I will have to take some time off from working on the car if it's not ready by then. Now, if the car isn't ready by the time I have to leave for work again...

So, what were you saying about 2x4's and a rental truck?

For real, though, are you suggesting building a movable garage? I have a background in construction, so I could probably do it. Have you done something like this or have an example of someone who did?

[76TA]

I was in a similar position as you a few years ago actually.

My father essentially gave me his '76 T/A for peanuts as soon as I got out of the Army (after 6 years). I had so many grand plans for the car as soon as I was the owner but girls, college and work got in the way. Luckily I had a friends and a few family members that let me store it, tools and parts while I figured out the right order of operations for my build...all while I finished up college, saved some money and landed the right girl (very important).

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/127202-76-Trans-Am

I guess what I'm saying is that I took my time until it and the money were right. Often times guys will see a little light and dive in to a project only to be forced to abandon a project a quarter of the way through because they are in over their head. Cars don't quit on guys. Guys quit on cars.

So yeah, rent a truck, build up temporary mounting walls / bracing and transport your now disassembled car to it's next destination.

That's what I would do.

[74 Camaro]

I was in a similar position as you a few years ago actually.

My father essentially gave me his '76 T/A for peanuts as soon as I got out of the Army (after 6 years). I had so many grand plans for the car as soon as I was the owner but girls, college and work got in the way. Luckily I had a friends and a few family members that let me store it, tools and parts while I figured out the right order of operations for my build...all while I finished up college, saved some money and landed the right girl (very important).

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/127202-76-Trans-Am

I guess what I'm saying is that I took my time until it and the money were right. Often times guys will see a little light and dive in to a project only to be forced to abandon a project a quarter of the way through because they are in over their head. Cars don't quit on guys. Guys quit on cars.

So yeah, rent a truck, build up temporary mounting walls / bracing and transport your now disassembled car to it's next destination.

That's what I would do.

Well, the cool thing about my car is that I drove it home when I got it, and for a little while afterward. I just didn't feel save driving it around after I started really inspecting it. I was new to muscle cars and was surprised by all the hidden work that was needed. This was mostly suspension stuff. All the bushings were shot, as well as brake hoses and whatnot. The car had been in an accident. Of course, I wanted to do more than just restore the original parts, I wanted to make improvements. I got on Google. Somehow I stumbled upon the pro-touring concept, autocross, and Mary Pozzi. Years later and I'm finally settling down on some good suspension parts from PTFB. Once that is all installed (as well as the wiring harness and other safety- related parts), the car will be functionally sound. I have decided to worry about the transmission and rear gears at a later time. The 3 speed may not be ideal, but it will propel me into a corner, where the suspension can do it's thing. It will still look like a turd, but I'm not trying to impress anybody.

Maybe I should be, though, so I can land the right girl.

[F-Body International]

74 Camaro, now that you got the ball rolling with this frame, make sure you 100% stay concentrated on finishing the frame, suspension, steering and brakes! I can't emphasize that more. The moment you start spending money on bling stuff like interior, paint and other things, the less chance you have at completing this project. Keep your engine, trans and rear the way they are in the car if they're running! According to that picture in your other thread, you need to get a complete frame under it. The stuff you normally don't think about is what gets many of the newbies. This should be your #1 goal for that car right now. When that is complete, then move on to the next thing.

[68Formula]

I have a GM 10 bolt with a Eaton TruTrac in it that had been trouble free for 4 seasons now.

2nd this^ I have one in my truck and love it. Will swap the F-body when the posi clutches wear out.

I second that.

We have used the basic alignment settings below on a variety of different vehicles. We use these as a baseline and tune from there.
Obviously, the more aggressive you plan to drive, the more you will need to adapt.

Camber= 0.5 to 1 deg. negative
Caster= 3-5 deg. positive
Toe= 1/16 to 1/8 inch toe IN

2nd this^

I would use 18' wheels , there's a better selection of tires and they clear the outer tie rods easier.

3rd this^ And I would add, that the height of a 275/40R18 is closer to factory diameter and aesthetically fills out the wheel wheel better compared to a 275/40R17 . If you don't have the clearance for a 275 on the front, you could go with a 245/45R18.

[74 Camaro]

74 Camaro, now that you got the ball rolling with this frame, make sure you 100% stay concentrated on finishing the frame, suspension, steering and brakes! I can't emphasize that more. The moment you start spending money on bling stuff like interior, paint and other things, the less chance you have at completing this project. Keep your engine, trans and rear the way they are in the car if they're running! According to that picture in your other thread, you need to get a complete frame under it. The stuff you normally don't think about is what gets many of the newbies. This should be your #1 goal for that car right now. When that is complete, then move on to the next thing.

In addition to the subframe, I'm purchasing PTFB's rear suspension, steering, brakes, and chassis bracing. I figure I can't do much better on performance for the money. The only other things I'm having to consider are safety issues like mirrors and seat belts. Thanks for your advice. It helps reinforce my current direction to keep the drive train I have now... and not do some of the other things I was thinking of. Now that I have narrowed my focus a bit, my goal to get the car ready this summer seems more feasible.

[74 Camaro]

2nd this^ I have one in my truck and love it. Will swap the F-body when the posi clutches wear out.

3rd this^ And I would add, that the height of a 275/40R18 is closer to factory diameter and aesthetically fills out the wheel wheel better compared to a 275/40R17 . If you don't have the clearance for a 275 on the front, you could go with a 245/45R18.

I have purchased 275/35R18 BFG G-Force Rival S tires, as advised by F-Body International. These sit .1" lower than the 275/40R17's, at 25.6" vs 25.7". The 275/40R18's would sit a full 1" higher at 26.7". I'm guessing at that width it is better to go lower on the aspect ratio for better clearance. Most importantly, I couldn't get the tire I wanted in the 40 aspect ratio.

The true trak will be in the works when I get around to drive train mods in a year or two (hopefully).