Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 20 of 20
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      2
      Country Flag: Canada

      70 Chevelle - Front Suspension advice

      Good morning guys, ive spent a foolish amount reading and trying to find the 'best' answer for questions, but I just cant seem to find it. so here goes.

      70 chevelle, goals are to have air ride - daily driven - power plant is a twin turbo 6.0L LS



      now heres the reasoning. I live in Saskatchewan Canada, the roads here suck. I also live out of the city, 20 minutes. Most of my driving will be highway, and road trips with my car club. ive built and daily driven air ride hot rods, and never had an issue. this chevelle is to be driven, and shown. I want the versatility of air as to put it where I need it for each purpose.

      I don't see many guys running speedway control arms? any reason? this car is not going to be track driven, nor raced. (well maybe a few passes down our local drag strip, to test those turbos out)

      I have just finished building my rotisserie for the body, so that's about to come off. then its chassis/suspension time.

      so questions are - speedway control arms yay or nay? which spindle to go with, can I utilize a 2'' drop spindle and still get a fairly decent front height with full air? im not concerned for the rear, as its fairly straight forward. adjustable links, rear sway, etc. and im boxing and building all tubular supports for the frame.

      sorry I kinda bounced around there. any and all info is greatly appreciated. keep in mind my Canadian dollar sucks compared to your USD!!!! haha


    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      Speedtech....
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      2
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by raustinss View Post
      Speedtech....

      https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...rms,81680.html

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      Those are the same arms that Summit sells. Basically copies of a few different manufacturers arms. made off shore. Hense the price, probably cost 50.00 to make all 4. We pay more than that just for the ball joints in our arms. Who knows what material they are made of?
      I know Speedway is a advertiser and a big distributor and they do not make them so I am not bashing Speedway. I guess if price is the deciding factor then these will be about a cheap as you can get them

      here is another option same arm
      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770251/overview/

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770250/overview/
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Posts
      634
      Country Flag: United States
      One of the reviews on the Summit arms on the Summit site said they got no gain in caster over stock arms.. If your not going to get at least 5 degrees positive caster, why bother......

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      Yep agree with above ... don't take it the wrong way but , stop looking at price. Yours and others lives depend on this . Again my suggestion is speedtech or abc performance
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree there are more factors to it then just swapping out control arms. You really need the whole package like uca lca sway bar and spindles from the same company. ridetech to me has the best designed control arms with the way the coil over mounts to the control arm is slick. I hate the t-bar mount. No disrespect to speed tech I own one of their sub frames. When it comes to bolt ons to a factory frame ridetech is hard to beat. This all purely my opinion.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      a t bar mount can and is easily modified to be a double shear bolt set up
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      724
      Country Flag: United States
      Speedtech is awesome. Speedway...not so much.
      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ra11ysport View Post
      I agree there are more factors to it then just swapping out control arms. You really need the whole package like uca lca sway bar and spindles from the same company. ridetech to me has the best designed control arms with the way the coil over mounts to the control arm is slick. I hate the t-bar mount. No disrespect to speed tech I own one of their sub frames. When it comes to bolt ons to a factory frame ridetech is hard to beat. This all purely my opinion.
      Why the Hate??? lol like to hear your opinion? here is one reason we use the T-bar which most don't understand, Due to the 50% motion ration on the Early cars when using the T Bat you actually get more ride height adjustment. Because you can mount the
      T-Bar either on the inside of the spring pocket or on the bottom side this will give you about 3/4" of additional ride height adjustment!!
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by killer69 View Post
      Why the Hate??? lol like to hear your opinion? here is one reason we use the T-bar which most don't understand, Due to the 50% motion ration on the Early cars when using the T Bat you actually get more ride height adjustment. Because you can mount the
      T-Bar either on the inside of the spring pocket or on the bottom side this will give you about 3/4" of additional ride height adjustment!!
      I totally get why you did it that way and that’s cool! But they are a pain in the butt most of don’t have a lift so we are on the garage floor. I don’t know! I just never had much confidence in those little 7/16 size bolts with coilover being on the bottom of the control arm. I’m sure I’m wrong and it’s plenty strong enough but it’s just a confidence thing. Just so you know I’m a huge speedtech fan and I think you guys are killing it right now. Sometimes it’s just those little details that make you pick one over the other.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,975
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ra11ysport View Post
      I totally get why you did it that way and that’s cool! But they are a pain in the butt most of don’t have a lift so we are on the garage floor. I don’t know! I just never had much confidence in those little 7/16 size bolts with coilover being on the bottom of the control arm. I’m sure I’m wrong and it’s plenty strong enough but it’s just a confidence thing. Just so you know I’m a huge speedtech fan and I think you guys are killing it right now. Sometimes it’s just those little details that make you pick one over the other.
      The top of the coil over is mounted to the frame using a double sheer bracket. I don't know the exact numbers, but I suspect with a 7/16" grade 8 bolt you will most likely bend the frame, tear the welds, or have some other catastrophic failure before that attachment breaks.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Attachment 146809
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      The top of the coil over is mounted to the frame using a double sheer bracket. I don't know the exact numbers, but I suspect with a 7/16" grade 8 bolt you will most likely bend the frame, tear the welds, or have some other catastrophic failure before that attachment breaks.

      Andrew
      It’s the lower T-bar that I’m referring too. The T-bar that mounts the coilover to the lower control arm.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      The bolts are way beyond strong enough and besides say that for some crazy reason both bolts break at the exact same time .....then what ...the car drops a couple inches and you pull over yes ?
      I get the confidence thing but still the chances of breaking both bolts at the same time is crazy . You have a better chance of getting nuked by North Korea but you don't let that interrupt your day or life now do you . You want amazing confidence boost buy them ,use them and then convince someone else who thinks the same as you that they're nuts for thinking that way
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      101
      Country Flag: United States
      The thing is that you don't have to break both bolts at once. The second one bolt comes loose, the load on the remaining one instantly doubles. When the second one breaks, you've got double the load, on the loose bolt, breaking it. Then the wheel contacts the fender well, and the shock contacts the road surface, and you only have one front tire left to steer, and brake with

    16. #16
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      No your brakes would work just fine . MOST of that style A arm physically don't allow the shock aka coilover to just drop out the bottom . More importantly I don't know how a bolt would just come loose . Regardless if I may ask how many times have you heard of this happening and what was the final result . Now I will say I'm sure it has happened a few times but my questions then are how was everything installed and torqued
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      101
      Country Flag: United States
      With the shock unhooked from the a-arm, the only weight on the tire, is that transferred from the other side by the sway bar.
      So either the tire is in the wheel well against the body work, and locked up, or its locked up, because there is so little weight on it when you press the pedal.
      Either way its locked, and not providing any braking or steering force.
      FWIW the factory shock retaining bolts are only 5/16"

    18. #18
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      bump stops ...? and we still haven't said if they were coilovers or shocks ..if its shocks the spring still holds the car up
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      101
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ra11ysport View Post
      I totally get why you did it that way and that’s cool! But they are a pain in the butt most of don’t have a lift so we are on the garage floor. I don’t know! I just never had much confidence in those little 7/16 size bolts with coilover being on the bottm of the control armo. I’m sure I’m wrong and it’s plenty strong enough but it’s just a confidence thing. Just so you know I’m a huge speedtech fan and I think you guys are killing it right now. Sometimes it’s just those little details that make you pick one over the other.
      Quote Originally Posted by raustinss View Post
      bump stops ...? and we still haven't said if they were coilovers or shocks ..if its shocks the spring still holds the car up
      seems pretty clear to me

    20. #20
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      Yeah seems clear to you but the original post doesn't say ....says goals were for air ride but air ride can be achieved in 2 ways air bag and air "coilover style "
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70





    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com